a few sec i saw Marc Malagelada (from this site) guidens how to
adjust the valve, i had some difficulties to understand
what size of shim should i buy in order to adjust the valves ..
"You need thickness gauge that will neasure 0.03mm and 0.08 mm "
well, ok ... but where exactly should i measure this size (0.03- 0.08 )
also he use the word "replace the shims", i cant get this right .. -
i thought i should buy a shim only to measure the (0.03-0.08mm gap)
well, as you can see by now, i didnt understood this process right ..
if somone can give me a better focuse on that procedure (the adjust part)
i will be most helpfull,
thanks , erez
in god i hope to trust :dunno:
And lookit, Kerry's Archive already proves valuable:
This is the selection table:
(http://www.bbburma.net/Scans/Haynes_ShimSelectionChart.jpg)
You check clearance. If it's off, you take out the current shim and measure its thickness. With those two values you then find the required shim in the table.
You take the head cover off. Then use the gauge to measure the gap between the cams and the shims. You will have to turn the engine to a certain position first then take the measurement(I did this a while back). If the gap is too big, you replace the shim, which pushes on the valve. The shims look like little round disks.
i`m getting into this right ...
if i may ask more (just to be in the safe side) ...
after i take a measure & find the right shim to
replace - only then i can go to the store & buy the correct shim.
did i get this procedure correct ?
You will need a micrometer the measure the shim correctly. They are stamped with their original thickness but wear and become thinner.
The way I set mine...
Measure the clearance at all the valves.
Measure the thickness of each shim.
Add the 2 measurement together then subtract the clearance you want. (I use 0.03mm)
This will give you the thickness of the shim required.
Sometimes you can swap the shims from one valve to another and find you only need 1 shim. Luckily I have a pile of them to mix & match. Worn shims are great since they differ from the factory increments of 0.05mm
Quote from: f155mphYou take the head cover off. Then use the gauge to measure the gap between the cams and the shims. You will have to turn the engine to a certain position first then take the measurement(I did this a while back). If the gap is too big, you replace the shim, which pushes on the valve. The shims look like little round disks.
" use the gauge " - best place to buy this gauge set ?
bet place to buy shims ?
thanks ....
Quote from: erezshlez
" use the gauge " - best place to buy this gauge set ?
bet place to buy shims ?
thanks ....
The "gauge" you need are a set feeler gauges, which are thin metal blades of verying thicknesses. They are available at hardware and auto parts stores. However, the clearance you are checking is smaller than what you'll find in most sets. You want to make sure there is a variety of blades between .03 and .10mm. The shims are only available from Suzuki dealers.
:cheers:
Hi erez. I see you're already in the proccess so I'll add something.
As said above, you need a feeler gauge and a micrometer.
If you'd like (have you started work yet?) I'll see if I can borrow our own set and we'll measure the clearances, unless you're going to buy one soon.
I don't know if our garage has a micrometer. I'll ask.
Quote from: harabecwHi erez. I see you're already in the proccess so I'll add something.
As said above, you need a feeler gauge and a micrometer.
If you'd like (have you started work yet?) I'll see if I can borrow our own set and we'll measure the clearances, unless you're going to buy one soon.
I don't know if our garage has a micrometer. I'll ask.
how can you help me ?
where are you from mr harabecw ?
i didnt yet started the job, i just finished collecting information
about a camshaft problem i have, and the valve work ....
next week i think .... :cheers:
Maybe some of this will help.
Here is the MotionPro valve spring tool that I use when I need to remove a shim:
(http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_0330_MotionProValveSpringCompressor.jpg)
Here is an "equivalent" home-made tool suggested by my Haynes manual:
(http://www.bbburma.net/Scans/Haynes_HomemadeValveShimTool.jpg)
Here is how you would use either tool to remove the shim (courtesy of my Haynes manual):
(http://www.bbburma.net/Scans/Haynes_HomemadeValveShimTool_Use.jpg)
Now, suppose that you can find a set of feeler gauge blades, but you don't have any THIN ENOUGH to measure that tiny gap between the shim and the cam lobe. If you get really desperate, you can buy one of thinner shims that Suzuki makes (richard and I went all the way and bought the THINNEST -- 2.15mm), replace the current shim with the thinner one, and measure the gap with your "too thick" feeler blades. This turned out to be REQUIRED in richard's case, since one of his valves had NO clearance and was 5 sizes(!!) too tight.
As a precaution we ground the "test" shim down to a slightly smaller diameter (http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_1240_ShimGrinding_ShimAgainstSandingWheel.jpg), to make sure that oil wouldn't be trapped underneath it and throw off he clearance measurement.
Here is an "equivalent" home-made tool suggested by my Haynes manual:
(http://www.bbburma.net/Scans/Haynes_HomemadeValveShimTool.jpg)
kerry
i wanted to make the equivalent tool beacause the origin tool
is to expensive do you know what size should be this tool
in order the make it ? (how thickness is it & each ...)
thanks ...
Judging by the photo with the ruler above I'd say you need a wedge going from 1/8" (3 mm) to 1/4" (6 mm) Thickness of 5 mm (3/16") should be about right.
I have also heard the following trick:
Engage sixth gear, turn the motor using the rear wheel (easier with plugs taken out ;)). Turn the motor so that the cams deprress the valve buckets. Now clamp a suitably sized large screwdriver between bucket and camshaft and turn on, until the cam comes free.
Now you can take out the shim. Just make sure the screwdriver doesn't pop out and hit you in the eye. If it should hit oyu in the eye anyway, you haven't heard this method from me. ;)
I've never seen one of these myself, but in a now-long-gone post or two someone mentioned having used an old, reground open-end wrench for this job. Something like this?
(http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_1538_ValveToolFromOldWrench.gif)
I have often wondered why the Motion Pro tool has a kind of T-shaped cross-section; wide surface where it touches the camshaft, and a thin "spine" underneath. The more I think about the Haynes DIY tool, the more sense the Motion Pro makes.
With a thin piece of plate steel, there is not much of a bearing surface to rest against the camshaft. To me this means that a side-to-side (twisting) slippage is much more likely. With the Motion Pro tool, or something like a ground-down wrench, the wide bearing surface will help to keep the tool vertical.
With a ground-down wrench, the surface that contacts the shim bucket may actually be TOO wide; it needs to contact the bucket WITHOUT pushing down on the shim. I'm sure you can come up with the right combination, but it may require: careful selection of the original wrench size, flattening the perimeter and one face of the wrench (to give a nice, sharp 90-degree angle), etc.