OK they are done. I might do some light grinding to help the fit today, weld splatter is sometimes getting in the way, they go off to the powder coating place maybe tommorow or the day after, and I order bolts to fit them on... OK I'll put pics up tonight, and as soon as I get a $$$ from powder coating... I'll take orders and send them out as soon as they come back from the powder. Now the handlebars... OK that's a whole other story. I'll post when they are done.
Cool.
Srinath.
are you taking orders now, or when they get back from powder coating? I couldn't figure it out from your post, sorry...
When the powder guys tell me how much $$$.
Cool.
Srinath.
Can we get then non-powder coated so to keep cost down?
uhm... what's a case saver? :?
Case savers are steel tube bent into a tight U shape... that you bolt on the bike... so when you crash it takes the brunt on the impact.
And seamax... they have light rust on them... non powder coated is going to be rusty. Besides powder coating is ~$5 a set, and painting it will not come out as nice.
Cool.
Srinath.
they are bars of metal that attach to the frame. They are mostly like what is in this auction (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=35580&item=2483866494&rd=1) except that srinath is changing them some (different steel etc)
They help prevent engine damage in the event of laying down your bike[/url]
well that certainly sounds like a good idea
srinath, are you still offering them? how much and perhaps a pic?
Quote from: seshadri_srinathOK I'll put pics up tonight, and as soon as I get a $$$ from powder coating... I'll take orders and send them out as soon as they come back from the powder.
Are case savers like what Kerry has on his bike? See the photo in the following thread:
http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10536 (http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10536)
Note the black frame around his engine.
jnosal
Canadian orders:
Please check out this thread for info:
http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10524
Can I get a pair powder coated red?
Quote from: jnosalAre case savers like what Kerry has on his bike?
Check out the
"leg protection bars"? thread for pictures of various types of "engine guards", including the ones that Suzuki USED TO make for the GS500 :( . I think Srinath's units will be close to the Suzuki design.
These are like the suzuki ones, not the ones Kerry has.
Seamax - they have 10 types of Red, and you need numbers for powder coating to be feasible. These are getting black, a low gloss black. At 50 (25 pairs) that costs me close to $5 a pair. Start changing colors and it will be $75 minimum per color. The money they charge me now is mostly labor. They spray black very often in large batches, and on new fabbed pieces (not mine, mine have a bit of rust) they do very minimal pre treatment. So in essence I am getting the pieces without paying for a color change cos I am piggy backing on a large batch they are doing. Put in some weird color and its a $75 in addition to the ~$5 per set. I'll put up a pic soon, I know I have been promisng... but I have to sit at the PC an get it down loaded and then get it on a disc and move it to the lap top which is the only one that can go online... and I have no time... Today we are starting on the handlebars... I might have to get some PC time snuck in there... else I might never have pics. Anyway things are going forward, pictures or not... so I guess I'll get to it when I can.
Cool.
Srinath.
OK I just have to buy bolts now, but The case savers should be $50 a set and shipping. Includes 12 inch long grade 8 bolts, some nylock nuts, Pretty much ready to bolt... However I would say you should get yourself a stack of washers... and locate the case savers where if you crashed the end plates wont hit the frame... The suzuki stock ones will hit the frame too, and they gave bolts with it that were just plain too short... Me and Davipu ended up wrestling with it for a good 1/2 hour, and ended up using tapped stainless rods. You also want to have the case savers sticking out just enough where it will protect the cases, and still not hit the ground in peg draggin corners. OK OK going to be hard... but had to say it (Frost). Also if you crash and I'd say crash hard, you will bend your bolts... They were bent into a banana on davipu's... and he didn't even have case savers. If the bolts get bent, you want to have something to hold on to and pull or cut or otherwise take them off. In any case I like to place them so that the end plates dont sit between the frame and engine. That space is too tight and if they were to twist... they'd end up damaging the case anyway. But I guess the stock one is that way so ... Anyway I'll put up instructions, and send a set with the pieces.
Cool.
Srinath.
so they look like the ones in these pics of my bike. they are almost at the bottom of the page
Quote from: davipuso they look like the ones in these pics of my bike. they are almost at the bottom of the page
Did you mean to reference the
What I Hauled To Work Today thread?
Pretty close. The only thing is my bends are much more wide. they managed a 90 degree bend in under 2 inches of metal. Mine are 4 inches. So the bends are a bit wider so its slightly different.
Cool.
Srinath.
I'll def. be in on a set....Let me know the total shipped (90807)...and I'll paypal it right out.
Thanks Brad
yep, shure did, just didn't remember to insert the link.
Ok, I'm interested but u make the installation sound complicated. How long will they take to install? Thanks. :mrgreen:
On each side: Remove 2 nuts, put case guard in place, retighten nuts. 5 minutes?
BUT!
It seems to me that the Suzuki guards came with an extra threaded rod. You had to remove the longer OEM engine mounting rod and replace it with the one they sent, then replace the shorter OEM rod with the longer OEM one. This was so there would be enough length to accomodate the extra thickness of the mounting tabs on the guards.
Moving the rods around doesn't add that much to the installation time. But you should check with Srinath about whether an extra rod is needed, whether it's included in the price, etc.
One more thing. To get the nuts off you will probably need two similarly-sized wrenches. Unless one of the wrenches has a LONG handle (I used my torque wrench) you may need a second person. If you can't get both nuts to turn, you may need to
* Pull the rod all the way out.
* Thread it through one guard and back through the engine block.
* Put the other guard on the protruding rod.
* Put the nut back on.
* Wait to tighten until you've done both rods.[/list:u]
The suzuki guards came with 2 bolts, one of which was too short, it was shorter than the damn stock one. I had measured it up and knew that it was short before davipu showed up at my door. So I took 3/8th stainless rod and tapped both ends of it with a 3/8 - 24 tpi tap, and forgot to get nylock nuts and asked him to get some on his way over. The stock bolts are the same that are used for the case savers, except they need to be longer. I will buy bolts that will fit these, Include instructions to get these on and send them out. The pieces are not harder to fit than suzuki's or anything like that, but instructions came with that lot as well. I also have some ideas on how they should go on. I have thicker end plates on them, and as such I'll like to have them outside the frame... They will fit inside as well, but that tight space might be bad to stuff them in there... cos in case they move in a crash... they might nick the cases or the frame. OH BTW the suzuki cases are the same way... OK it might not move enough in a crash... but I'd minimize the risk anyway. But its up to each person to fit it the way they want. They should also be spaced out for the projection you like... the wider it is, better protection, but more intrusive in cornering... if you are a serious cornerer... So get a stack of flat washers, some split washers and fiddle wiht it. Few minutes is all it took us on davipu's bike... and it was pouring rain then.
Cool.
Srinath.
i'm :?
i took a quick look, and i THOUGHT that the guards are put onto the rods that hold the engine block on/in the frame.
if that's the case, why do we need bolts?
Rods, bolts ... same thing.
Now that I'm at home, I checked my original equipment. The bike came with 3 engine mounting BOLTS (hex head on one end, short threaded section and washer and nut on the other). It was my Five Stars engine guards that came with 3 (fully-)threaded rods and nuts/washers for each end.
Sorry for the mix-up.
I made threaded rods... Out of stainless 3/8 rod stock... damn near broke my hands... and chewed up 2 taps and ended up being a little crooked. I am buying bolts... 12 inch 3/8th dia hex head... You dont even want to know what they cost. OK OK they cost $2+ a piece. Box of 100 ~ $210. But anyway the case savers are done, and turned out quite nice if I may say so myself.
Cool.
Srinath.
Srinath, now that you've confessed to both bending and threading skills, perhaps you would consider a quick "one off" job for seamax?
(See Mirror extenders/extensions..do they exists? (http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10557).)
I'm not sure which would be the most appropriate grade of steel, or whether the rod would have to be heated before it was bent.
Darn! He could have gotten 'em powder-coated, too!
I'll try... The rod has to be threaded cold, and any larger than 3/8 is going to be very very hard. Mild steel wont work well when you try this, cos the vice and the tap will chew up the metal... I'll do it with stainless steel. Or if you wanted to you can cut up 2 bolts and weld them at right angles.
Cool.
Srinath.
How about bending threaded rod, then doing something simple to cover/hide the threads. Use your imagination: paint it with rubber "instant tool handle", or cover it with electrical shrink tubing, or use fiberglass & epoxy...
But I suppose that cutting the heads off 2 bolts and welding them together would give a nice tight angle, if that's what you want.
BTW for case savers for sale post... look in the for sale section.
Cool.
Srinath.
If you have a chin spoiler /belly pan it doesn't seem like from the pics posted that the case savers would fit without some custom cutting.
Any ideas or suggestions?
dislaimer: i know nothing
AFAIK, there's 4 rods holding the engine on the frame. maybe the back 2 are the same distance apart as the front 2 :dunno:
Quote from: seamaxIf you have a chin spoiler /belly pan it doesn't seem like from the pics posted that the case savers would fit without some custom cutting.
That reminds me.
Back when Suzuki DID offer OEM belly pans and case guards, the descriptions for both mentioned that they couldn't be used together. I'm not sure how definitively that applies to aftermarket stuff.
I dont see how a belly pan can be used with this case saver either. The back mounts are not same distance or depth as front... and if they were you still dont want to fit it there.... cos 1. It will hit your foot... 2. the case savers protect you when you're moving forward... if its at the back of the case... it will not prevent the case from hitting... The case is widest in front... so the front gets hurt the most. I'll include instructions to fit them in each package.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: goatthey are bars of metal that attach to the frame. They are mostly like what is in this auction except that srinath is changing them some (different steel etc)
They help prevent engine damage in the event of laying down your bike
Funny you should mention that particular auction. I'll let you know if the bars fit on my bike once they get here. ;)
-Kel
Kel... you tyring to fit in on a GS500??? Dont even try it... its not even close. The 450's had spine type frames with presumably 1 down tube that split into 2 probably just ahead of the motor.... the GS500's have to be flat if you placed it on the end plates. Look at pic I posted.
Cool.
Srinath.
OK bolts got picked up few mins ago... so the whole kit and kaboodle is ready to go. comes with 12 inch looooooong bolts 3/8 dia grade 8 and nylock nuts... You can just bolt and go, or heck buy some washers bolt and go. Took me and davipu 10 mins or so in pouring rain... Dont ask for pics on my bike... the pics I put up earlier are it... cos the bike is DOA. $50 and shipping for all.
Will I make more of these... most probably, but the changes are going to be...
1. Smaller diamater tubing... 1 inch OD now, next run 7/8th or 3/4.
2. Narrower end plates. 1 inch wide now 3/4 inch next run....
The advantages of 1 inch... highway pegs bolt right on. 3/4 inch... nope. But 1 inch is hard to make cos there is barely enough room in the under side...
Cool.
Srinath.
ok. I'll try to come up this weekend to swap and bring bars back, I just have to figure out this carb problem. do you still have any of the bars that aren't welded?
For the 01 style, I do have 6 that I haven't even cut up, so yes. Bent yes, the final miter cuts, no.
You want to swap out the case guards for the thicker wall ones and some real bolts instead of my hand made rod pieces... lemme know. We can do that too.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: seshadri_srinaththe pics I put up earlier are it...
Can someone give me a link to this (these) pic(s)? Can't seem to find it. I refer to pics of Srinath's case savers installed. :dunno:
http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/seshadrisrinath/album?.tok=phsafbBBbXKZ1llG&.dir=/38ee&.src=ph
That's the link to my yahoo... hope they open wihout you having to register.
Cool.
Srinath.
Got my case savers today (woo-hoo!):
(http://grapeape.specialgreen.com/pictorial/case-savers/unpacked-box.jpg)
UPS tracking says that it was delivered to me on Friday here in Minnesota (which would have been 3 days), but actually it showed-up at my house this morning (4 business days since they were shipped). Which is still good.
One rod had a nyloc nut, the other didn't... but there was a hole the size of a quarter in one corner of the box. I suspect that the rod may have poked-out, then gotten shaken around: there's a bunch of shredded newspaper around that bolt. If I go buy a replacement nut, what grade of steel does it need to be? Or, I could just re-use the nuts from the bike, which should be adequate strength (?).
If I had to make a suggestion about shipping:
Take a 3x5 index card (or same sized piece of cardboard, like from a cereal box), and fold over each end of each nut, and tape in place.
Also, the contents were very loose; about 3x as much newspaper would be good.
Another thing I like to do, is go to the FedEx drop-off boxes; they have a pile of those FedEx LargePak Tyvek envelopes which you can grab, which are tear-proof (postoffices have them too). If you put each case saver into a separate envelope, that would protect the powder-coat nicely. There were a couple of tiny nicks through the powdercoating on mine, but they're not too visible, and I think I'll rub some permatex into them to seal them back up.
You recommended mounting the ears outside the frame, to minimize potential damage. It looks like I will need a 7/8-inch spacer on each side of the bottom bolt. On the top bolt, I would only need a 1/2" spacer on the left, and a 5/8" spacer on the right, in order to clear the frame. But if I did different sized spacers on top and on the bottom, the case savers would not be straight, and that would stress the bolts.
So I should probably use 7/8" spacers both on the top and on the bottom. The case saver ears will then sit about 3/8"-1/2" outside the outside edge of the frame on the top bolts. If the goal is to mount the case savers just outside the frame, on both the top AND the bottom, then perhaps what you want are case savers which reach 1/2" further inwards at the top. The way they are currently, they will go either inside the frame, or outside, which is more flexible, but will look less "finished" when mounted outside the frame.
Maybe I can find a bag of 20 3/16"-thick washers, and put 5 on each bolt-end. Or I could just use a slightly larger nut, like a couple of 7/16" nuts on each bolt-end as "spacers"?
Oh crap UPS box break... again... glad just a nut was lost... the nut is a 3/8th 16 tpi... nylock... not stock...
Doesn't have to be entirely outside... just the motor will be good... just dont want the motor getting punched as it even begins to deform... Outiside the lips the engine mounts are... I cant explain... I didn't take pics... but a bit off the mounts and motor is all I thought it should be... How much is a bit... no idea... 7/8th so is too much... 1/4 to 1/2 inch was what I had in mind...
Cool.
Srinath.
How I did the install:
-At the hardware store, buy:
- -2 @ 3/8" lock nuts
- -4 @ small-Outer-Diameter 3/8" washers (from the "SAE steel washers" box; the ones in the 3/8" washer bin were large O.D.)
- -Another 4 to 12 @ small-outer-diameter 3/8" washers to use as spacers. See "spacer notes" at bottom.
-Put the bike on centerstand.
-Remove the top engine mounting nut on the right side of the bike using a 14mm socket.
- -The bolt head on the other side can be held in-place using a 14mm wrench.
- -If you crouch over the front wheel, you can reach the socket and nut with the left hand, while holding the wrench and bolt with the right hand.(--Indestructableman)
-Put a thin coat of lithium grease on one of the new case bolts, and thread onto it:
- -a washer (not shown in image below)
- -the top ear of the right-hand case saver
- -spacer washer(s) (I used a nut as a "spacer" in the picture below, see "spacer notes" at bottom)
(http://gs500.specialgreen.com/pictorial/case-savers/threaded-bolt.jpg)
-push the new bolt in, pushing the existing bolt out the left side in the process. It slid in easily for me; there was no weight on the bolt at all. The spacers stayed in-place.
(http://gs500.specialgreen.com/pictorial/case-savers/one-ear.jpg)
-Put a 3/8" nyloc nut lightly on the left end of the new bolt to keep it in place
(http://gs500.specialgreen.com/pictorial/case-savers/right-side.jpg)
-Remove the bottom engine mounting nut on the left side.
- -The bolt head on the other side can be held in-place using a 14mm wrench.
- -You can lay on the ground on the right side of the bike, and turn the socket with the left hand, while reaching under the bike with the right hand to hold the wrench.(--Indestructableman)
-Coat the other new bolt with grease, and thread onto it: a washer, the bottom ear of the right-side case saver, and spacer washer(s).
-Push it in, pushing the old bottom bolt out the right side. I was surprised to find no pressure on this bottom bolt either. I could jiggle both the top and bottom engine mount bolts loosely. I guess that the third (rear) engine mounting bolt was taking all of the engine's weight now?
Now moving to the left side of the bike, push "spacer" washer(s) onto each bolt (again using a nut as a "spacer" in this picture, see "spacer notes at bottom):
(http://gs500.specialgreen.com/pictorial/case-savers/spacer.jpg)
...and:
- -an ear of the left-side case saver
- -a washer
- -a locknut
Put blue loctite in the nuts, and screw them on finger-tight.
Tightening is a bit more involved (takes two wrenches ;) ).
I continued using the 14mm sockets, since they seemed to fit Srinath's bolts OK. However, once the bolts were half-tightened, the threaded end of the bolt stuck-out too far for me to continue using a regular 14mm socket (and I don't have a deep-well socket set). Instead, I put a wrench on the nut, and braced it to keep it from turning: on the lower mounting nut, I hooked the handle of the wrench underneath the sidestand bracket, and tightened the bolt from the right side using a regular 14mm socket, and finishing with a torque wrench to about 50 ft-lbs.
(http://gs500.specialgreen.com/pictorial/case-savers/brace-bottom.jpg)
On the upper mounting nut, I braced the handle of the wrench from below using some lumber.
(http://gs500.specialgreen.com/pictorial/case-savers/brace-top.jpg)
On the right side of the bike, there wasn't enough clearance between the case saver and the bolt head to fit a large-headed socket bar (e.g. Craftsman 1/2" drive), without scratching the case saver. I added two 3" socket extenders so that the socket bar was out past the end of the case saver.
So: you might have noticed that the nuts are now on the opposite side of the bike from when I started. I removed the OEM nuts from the right side of the bike, then pushed the new bolts through right-to-left, so now the new nuts are on the left side. The has worked for me for a week of riding, and I don't see any problems there.
Also, the new bottom bolt is protruding almost an inch beyond the nyloc nut; the bolt appears to be longer than it needs to be. However, the extra bolt thread doesn't seem to be in a place to catch on anything. You can cut the end off and file if it bothers you.
Tools needed for my install were:
-14mm wrench (or a good adjustable wrench)
-14mm socket, extension(s), socket bar and torque wrench
-pile of 2x4s
-grease
-loctite
That's it! I did not need a hammer or pliers; I did not need to support the engine from below with a jack. I saw no reason to get help from a 2nd person. Overall, I'd rate the difficulty of installing these to be about the same as changing the oil.
Finished:
(http://gs500.specialgreen.com/pictorial/case-savers/bike-done.jpg)
View of the right case-saver from the seat, and also showing the new "Lay-Z-Boy recliner" footrest:
(http://gs500.specialgreen.com/pictorial/case-savers/view-from-seat.jpg)
Spacer notes: Srinath suggests that it's good to use spacer washer(s) to move the ears 1/4" or so out from the block. This is optional, but reduces risk to the engine block should the case saver twist during a crash. Also, there is some welding slag on the tabs on the frame, which would have prevented mounting the case savers without at-least one spacer washer. A good spacer will sit snugly around the shaft of the 3/8" bolt, yet be small enough in outer diameter to sit flush against the frame tab. If your hardware store has some small outer-diameter 3/8" washers, then those work best. You might also use 3/8" split lock washers, which have very small outer diameter, although those will scratch the paint. You would use as many as necessary to add 1/8" to 1/4" thickness between the frame tabs and the case saver ears.
My little neighborhood hardware store did not have suitably-small outer-diameter 3/8" washers, so I used a single 7/16" nut as a spacer under each mounting ear. Some 7/16" nuts will fit over the threads of the case saver bolts without cross-threading or binding, but others from the same nut bin will not, so if you want to do this, take the bolt to the store and try-before-you-buy. 1/2" nuts would slide-on easier, but would be looser around the bolt shaft.
EDIT: After 1 week of riding, no problems have been noticed; actually, no real difference has been noticed in riding, except for having the foot-rests.
thanks for the pics.
it looks like i should be able to work those with my chin fairing no problem.
can't wait for my pair to arrive.
cheers,
will
Wowee... Nice write up... Glad you didn't have trouble... BTW you are the first to have fitted it on... My bolts are all 12 in... the stockers are some weird ass length... and yes one shorter than the other... I couldn't buy 11.5 inchers... I had no idea if it will be enough... given the liberal tolerances on the bikes frame etc... Using a larger nut as a spacer was pretty clever...
Cool.
Srinath.
i've had mine on the bike since the 6th... just too lazy to take pics :mrgreen:
i used 3 washers on each side to give a little padding. there's still quite a lot (~1.5in) of bolt left after the nylock went on, that i feel like i SHOULD cut off (but don't want to). i guess that's the part you were worried about bending in a crash, srinath
I was not exactly refering to the spare length of bolt left sticking out... That can be cut or left or... makes not much diff. I was refering to the bolt itself bending... and if that does happen the feet of the case guards whcih are right between the motor and frame will end up twisting in place, and I said if they are a little off the motor which is why we space them out a bit that lessens the damage it might do.
Cool.
Srinath.
Maybe like these,
(http://www.bbburma.net/CalPrice/CalsEngineGuards.jpg)
That is incredible... same as what kerry got... If I had access to those I'd have made those...
Cool.
Srinath.
Well, not quite the same, but the same idea.
My guards use all 3 engine mounting points, and Cal's guards rest on the frame at the bottom instead. Probably works out about the same, although I can see at least ONE advantage to Cal's arrangement: He still has access to the lower left mounting screw for the right-side engine cover.
And I wonder if there isn't less risk of damage to Cal's engine? It depends on the nature of the crash, I suppose....
(http://www.bbburma.net/FujiFotos/Riderhaus/EngineGuards/DSCF1692.jpg)
OK I am comming down to the last few... I have everyone that I have committed to so far covered... all those that have paid for it etc is all covered. The weekend delivery thing I am making is also covered... After that I probably have ~3-4 sets. Just a heads up... Next lot will be a few months from now and have smaller OD tubing and narrower flat bar for end plates to make manufacturing easier.
Cool.
Srinath.
got mine yesterday and installed them this morning.
i'd caution people using nuts as spacers.
i bought 4 7/16th nuts. two of them fit over the bolts, two of them wouldn't. i bored those two out with my dremel.
anyway, whilst installing the bars, one of the 7/16th nuts that i hadn't bored became horridly cross-threaded. i really thought i would have to just cut the bolt and get a new one.
fortunately, my hammer proved quite persuasive and the threads weren't significantly damaged.
anyway, aside from that one hitch, they went on quite well and i didn't have to do anything to my chin fairing.
thanks Srinath, they look great.
cheers,
will
Pics please...
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: indestructiblemangot mine yesterday and installed them this morning.
i'd caution people using nuts as spacers.
i bought 4 7/16th nuts. two of them fit over the bolts, two of them wouldn't.
Thanks Indestructableman (IDSM for short?), I've updated my described installation to recommend using the "right tool for the job", which means 3/8" small-outer-diameter washers. Also added your note about reaching around the bike and under the bike. I added a postscript describing possible alternatives (lock nuts, 7/16" nuts, 1/2" nuts) and their drawbacks.
Shushhhhh you 2... you are scaring the people away...I still have a few I gotta sell... :lol: Here is the explaination...
These 2 are working wayyyyy off the engineering guide books... Using nuts 1 size bigger as spacers... So while it works (with due attention to the binding and filing routine) its sorta off the wall a little. Washers... and small OD is needed... or drill up some pennies or some like that... and that makes for spacers I was talking about. These 2 are too lazy to go to a store that has washers. So they decided to show horn a few nuts in...
Cool.
Srinath.
i'd recommend 1/2" nuts.
anyway, my folks will be here this weekend and i'll ask my dad to bring his digital camera so i can get some photos.
cheers,
will
another handy installation tip:
i was able to tighten the top bolt by crouching in front of the front wheel (with one knee on either side). this allowed me to operate a wrench on one side, and a ratchet with a deep socket on the other.
for the lower bolt, it's easy to reach if you lie on your back next to the bike and reach underneath.
cheers,
will
(http://home.comcast.net/~williamethan/suz/suz013srinathbar.jpg)
OK I am down to the last 3... I believe I have sent out every one that has been paid for... Just letting y'all know. Once again might make more over the winter, but they may not be the same 1 inch tubing or the 1/4 inch end plates... Might go smaller/thinner to make it easier to build ... once the factory is done cranking out exhaust flanges and 04 bars and ...
BTW wont fit 04 bikes...89-2002 US and naked GS500 bikes only.
Price - $50 and shipping. Comes with bolts and nuts... you get washers or shudder... 7/16 nuts for spacers at Home depot/lowes and install... 10-20 mins.
Cool.
Srinath.
got any pics of these mounted on a bike?
Check pages 3 and 4. My yahoo link on the first page as well. Over 20 of these are on bikes as I write this. No complaints, some hack tricks using 1/2 inch nuts as spacers... simple install, and they double as highway pegs ... for some of us :lol: :lol: :lol:
Cool.
Srinath.
If you check out my "www" link below, or my "Picture Page" in my sig, you can see how I spaced my set out from the frame on my '00. I bought a huge bag of 3/8ths washers, as you can see in the pictures, and stacked up 3 of them to look better than nuts, and hopefully help prevent the rods from bending in a crash. I believe my mounting method is Srinath approved/recommended, is that right Srinath??
Oh come on... you're making a big deal of the srinath method... BTW I think you did get the thing fitted right... I would like to see the case savers a bit off the motor because... well the idea is they save the motor... you dont want the feet of the thing punching a hole in the motor if the thing is in a crash... The bolts can be replaced a lot easier than the case guard... so with that extra buffer, the case guards should be able to bend a bit without damage to the cases ... and that extra length on the bolts might give you the room to grip it and get a bent up bolt off the motor post crash.
Cool.
Srinath.
i was taking some pictures today and decided to take a couple of the srinath case savers :)
left (http://bellsouthpwp.net/d/p/dpantel/case_guard_left.jpg)
right (http://bellsouthpwp.net/d/p/dpantel/case_guard_right.jpg)
right top mount closeup (http://bellsouthpwp.net/d/p/dpantel/case_guard_mount.jpg)
i'm still debating as to whether or not to saw off the bolt tips
No spacer... well might not be that big a deal...
Cool.
Srinath.
Just wanted to have a confirmation from you so I can advertise that picture as being correct if somebody is wondering in the future.
Thanks!!
Hey Mk1incali,
The pic you have up was good, there is no "correct" per say... use a spacer and you might get a bit extra breathing room... of course the case savers also stick out more... so you make it less pretty to an extent. Anycase I doubt there will be an impact severe enough to make that foot smash against the cases ... The extra space from the spacer will help you pull the bolt out and cut it if needed... so that might be a factor. So yours are fine ...
Cool.
Srinath.
OK these are all sold out as of 2 weeks ago ... BTW not 1 complaint ... whoooo hooo (except I sold it to a couple people not knowing they had 04's - wont fit due to fairing ) ... anyway ... time for a second lot ...
I'd probably improve on the design a little ... without adding to the cost If possible ... I am talking to some laser cutting people ... might make some laser cut pieces instead of machined/milled like last time. Anyway I was just trying to see if I would have enough interest for a batch of ~25 ...
If so I might start the job, ask for a prepayment etc ... and crank them out as fast as possible. They fit 89-03 only ... nothing with a fairing ... some people have managed to cram them on a bike that had lowers ... no idea how ... watch this space and post if interested ... In a couple weeks I'll see and jump in ... or skip on the idea ... BTW I doubt there is going to be a 3rd lot ... cos I had to buy 100 of those bolts ... I have 50 or so left over ... having made 25 only last run ... I plan to use that up and walk away ...
Cool.
Srinath.
srinath, if you do another batch you can count me in for one...
- alex
Well Lets see if more jump in, else I'll make 1 ... just for you ... I believe I have some prototypes left over from last time ... some final cuts and welds and should be good. Now I have 1/2 a mind to make the 3 point ones ... or ones that will fit and work on an F ... lemme see what scott (southjerzriders) comes up with for an F ... If I get a order of 25 I can kick some butt in the material prices and machining situation ... my welder of course will have more incentive cos he has a larger job so shaZam! gets done ... instead of him saying "I have to help with this guy's roofing job, it pays better than your rinky dink 2 pieces" ... yea he did that last winter ... grrrrr ....
Cool.
Srinath.
I'm IN, since I'm about to have 2 GS's again. I'd sure like to see a 3-point unit, but if it's a choice between getting a 2-point unit or nothing I'll take the 2-point. :)
Well Sir ... Since I am trying to mangle and bend up steel flat bar ... 3 point should not be any problem ... is it OK if the third mount is bolted to the front one ... instead of welded ... and heck I can make a cross brace as well connecting the left to right ... making for a cage ... We also can add a big projection for the slider type delrin plastic bushing for an 04 ... heck I am going nuts here ... I better start drinking and watching TV before I have steel rods dancing in front of me ... Oops ... too late ...
OK OK watch this space ... and I'd like a batch of ~20 or so ... like I said material costs are lower by the 100's of feet ...
Cool.
Srinath.
I'd also just sell mine and buy a set of the new 3 pts when they come out.
Anybody want my 2 pointers if Srinath makes the 3 point versions?
Well better not hold y'er breath ... It all sounds so easy until you start bending the metal ... its not going to be any picnic bending 1.5 inch by 1/4 inch steel flat bar ... and 3 point ... forget making any large numbers of it I have only so much arm left ... I will make 1 for kerry if he wants one ... en masse ... I doubt it ... why ... over kill ... gross over kill, and its not gonna be easy to fit either, and cost more and I haven't even thought of what else ... Its also going to cost more ... cos the steel is more now, and worse the material is heavier per foot ... and I am still looking for 20 ... else not worth jiggin it ... and my welder isn't going to get off his beer drinking ass and do anyhitng ... in this freezing cold ... Lets see where we are in a couple weeks ... in the mean time I'll have to crank out the stuff I have already been sent $$$ for like 04 flanges and carbs ... Just let me see 20 hands for these ... and well work on who wants what ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Gee and I was just about to ask how much would they cost to send to Australia,maybe I should send my bike to you I'd love to get the carbies sorted out,some case guards,maybe some new handle bars.Don't supose your comeing down to Auss any time soon allmost free acommidation and meals only cost you the carby tune up,the bars and case guardes would fit in your case would'nt they,hell Ill even throw in free transport,you can tour the state while your checking if the rejetting was a success.
Pretty please ;)
Well aussie man ... thanks ... gee that was generous ... Aussie carbs are a bunch easier than US ones ... you already had 40 pilots and there were no caps on the air screws ... But ... I have heard jets are hard to find ...
Here we have them comming out the ears ... so ... case guards, bars and jets can all go in 1 package and shipping to Aus is fine too ... send and received stuff to 2Twin last year. Was fine. So I'll put you in for the case guards and the jets and bars ... and I'll send it off if and when ...
BTW what year is the bike ... 40 pilots on a 89-00 bike, 01 and later not sure what ... but you'll need main, mid mains and maybe pilots if your bike didn't have the 1 size larger ... what else ... we got parts ... an extreme surplus ... people got K&N's they wanna sell, we just have a bunch lying about ... just ask and we can make a lot to send out.
Cool.
Srinath.
It's a 2002 GS and a puzzle,as said before it's stock,always been very poor and I mean very very poor down low but that improves as it,s made leaner,since everyone agree's usally there way to lean makeing it leaner should worsen the problem not fix it. Ide guess a hung up choke but that all seems fine.Someone told me the 2002 have 3 jett's in them primary mid and main,havent been in there myself so have no idea,being still under warranty I dont tinker with it but it's about to run out shortly.
:mrgreen:
Yea I have heard people start replacing parts in an effort to make it "Good as new" ... fact is it sucked when it was new ... might be yours sucks more than the others ... very possible cos the word "tolerances" ... was entirely unknown at the time they made these ... clowns ... On the case guards ... I have had to egg all the bolt holes and drill them 1/2 inch ... instead of the 3/8th the bolt needs ... just so they'll fit more than just my 89 GS ... anyway ... start rejetting it ... nothing is sacred ... just cos its original doesn't mean its good ... good as new ... wasn't any good when it was new ...
Cool.
Srinath.
:o That doesnt sound good,sound's like you know something about the 2002 model that I dont and should, I wasnt aware there was any changes mecanically over the years, that was one of the main reasons I went for the GS 500, tried and true for over a decade I thought. Would appreciate any insight you have about the 2002 and what was changed
:dunno:
Tried and tested ... I guess ... but they fooked around with the carbs some in 2001 ... anyway nothing that's wrong takes more than 2-3 jet swaps to fix ... and its wrong on the 89-00 as well ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Cant believe this is still there ... something about being saved forever and ever ...
Neat.
Cool.
Buddha.
Resurrecting your own thread? I don't know, is that sad, maybe? :icon_razz:
soooo, When will you have some ready?
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: