Well, its taken me long enough, but I've pretty much finished the rebuild. I'm still have some fine tuning to do. I got to ride yesterday, and I found that I put the gearshift lever on wrong (too high). So I get back home, and give it a turn to loosen it. Unfortunately, I didn't think about the fact that it is on the bottom of the lever, so I snapped the f$#@ing bolt off. Now I have a running bike in the garage that runs, but I can't ride her becuase I can't shift gears. Is that a special bolt that I need to get OEM parts for, or can I just replace it with a normal 6mm bolt from the hardware store?
I was having a lot of issues with running rich under 3k. I ended taking all of the #4 washers off of the needle, and that made a huge difference, but its still running rich under 3k. (40 pilots, 150 mains, K&N lunchbox, yoshi full exhaust)
The tone of my exhaust has changed quite a bit. It's louder and deeper pitched than I remember it being. Is this normal for rejetting & air filter replacement or engine rebuild?
I have not been very happy with the gaskets I ordered from partsnmore. The engine kit was missing some gaskets that I think it should have had (oil pump in particular). With the carb rebuild kits, I ended up putting in the old o-rings (the really little ones near the diaphragm on top of the carbs) to solve some of carb issues I was having.
My last question is about breakin. I know that cerunos mentioned not worrying about breakin for this kind of a rebuild, but I am wondering what other thoughts are on the subject. (I replaced the main and counterbalancer bearings and re-ringed the pistons)
Quote from: goatIs that a special bolt that I need to get OEM parts for, or can I just replace it with a normal 6mm bolt from the hardware store?
I'd say that if you were able to shear it off :o -- it must not be TOO special.
If you have a local dealer you can check with them. They may have one in stock, or they may GIVE you a suitable replacement from their "Miscellaneous Nuts & Bolts Can". (And don't forget the "other" dealerships. I have bought various close-enough bolts from my local Honda dealer because they are closer than the Suzuki shop.) If you
really want an OEM bolt you could order one; they're pretty cheap.
Leaving the dealerships out of it for a minute, I wouldn't have any qualms about using a bolt from the hardware store. You just have to find the right size....
*Shameless bump* :roll:
No opinions on break-in? Come on, I know that some of you have done this before.
Ok breakin... OK I'll follow the low rpm's thing... cos the bottom end that you put together is going to be tighter than the factory... that will make the bearings wear in and get themselves fitted right... Honestly the factory puts these together loose... loose as hell, This friend of mine opened up a 89 gs waaaay back in 89 when his sister floated a valve and bent it... and with under 2K on it... it had bearings that were loose as diarrhea... So he fitted custom ??? bearings and hand gapped 1/2 mm over rings and new valves and springs and guides and .... and the bike went to over 150K and still didn't use oil... evidently in 99 he rebuilt it to 555 and now it has over 225K... However I cant find the guy these days, so i am SOL... OK here is a way to find out how tight your motor is... fit an oil pressure guage... after oil gets fully hot, 30 mins of riding... see what rpm you make what pressure, now try that on a factory assembled motor with same grade/brand oil and same guage... and compare. factory fits them loose.
Cool.
Srinath.