Ok I am rebuilding my forks and getting the bike back on the road this afternoon.
My problem is how in the heck do I get the fork tubes to seperate!??
The book says to remove the little clip, and pull it apart in a slide hammer like action.
Done both but its not coming apart, and I am desperate!!!
Some one please help! I will be checking a bunch this hour, so let me know..
Hey you could even call me and let me know.. # 360-607-1583
Micah
There is a bolt in the bottom of the fork leg than holds the two halves together.
The tricky part is that if you just try to remove it, the damping rod inside will spin with the bolt. You have to either:
a) with the fork assembled, and the damping rod under pressure, use a impact wrench to zip the bolt out.
b) Buy/borrow/make a tool to hold the damping rod still while you remove said bolt.
c)usually a combination of both a and b is required to get the bastards out, especally if its the first time, because they like to torque the snot out of them at the factory.
awsome!! ill see what I can do thanks
For 3 different ideas on getting that bolt out (and a nice exploded view of what's inside the forks) see the message thread
Bad Day Wrenching on the GS (http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7084)
I made Kerry's tool when I took my forks apart. With the tool it was really easy, but it took 2 people. One holding the tool in, and the forks down, while i torqued on the bolt to get it loose. They *do* like to torque the snot out of them at the factory, so it took some oomph, but it will eventually come out. I used an allen wrench locked in a pair of vicegrips for leverage.
OK, that tears it, im going to be working on clearing and cleaning up my car part so I can do some of these "Video HOW TO's" i have a comeplete GS already in parts (minus frame,carbs, and gauges) i can start refurbishing some of these parts on Video, hell, if we can get some parts donated, i will completely build a bike on Video. at this point dont even need a frame with title aslong as its got a bill of sale. i will got through everything from valve adjustments to replacing CB shaft bearings, Fork seals, i about have whats needed for valve work, changing tires by hand, perhaps even some basic welding and Mod work. i already have the makings of a Engine Test stand. for basic tuning, and plans in the works for a load center for the engine stand.
I took an old wooden broom stick and pounded it into the damper. Then I had someone hold the stick while I turned the bolt. The bolt came right out.
Quotebroom stick and pounded it into the damper
Cringe! :o not my first, or 5th chioce to handle it, but if it works for you..... :dunno:
Quote from: BlueknytI can do some of these "Video HOW TO's"
Cool! I'm thinking about doing some videos too, but I'm just now gathering the equipment. With no video-taking experience to speak of, I'm betting it will take some time to refine my technique to a level that I'll be satisfied with.
Meanwhile, maybe I can watch YOUR stuff! :thumb:
I just recently replaced my seals, and tried a lot of things. The best for me was an 8mm allen head socket (I ended up making one since Sears does not carry the animal) that I attached to my impact gun. Since the tube just spins inside the fork, I disassembled it, and inserted a short, proper diameter socket on top of the spring. This added the proper amount of spring tension to keep things from spinning. (just don't leave the socket in when you reassemble. Good luck.
normaly if you leave the fork fully assembled and loosen the allenbolt first, the spring pressure will hold it well enough to remove the bolt. once the bolt is out (plz have a pan/bowl under it BEFORE removal) the oil will start to drip. remove the top cap to the fork, and it will come out faster.