All I want to do is adjust my rear preload and I have to admit this is frustrating me beyond belief. I can't turn the thing a squeek, and I'm no kitty cat either, what gives?? What am I doing wrong??? My angle?
Any help appreciated! :x
EDIT: And yes, I have read EVERYTHING I can find on the forums and Google :(
Do you have the bike up on the centerstand to remove the load from the shock as you adjust? But ya just love the little bike don't ya? And this forum too.
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Quote from: cernunosDo you have the bike up on the centerstand to remove the load from the shock as you adjust? But ya just love the little bike don't ya? And this forum too.
C.......
Yes the bike is on the center stand. I do love it, but I'm getting a little short tempered with this rear preload :(
I've heard (or read) about some other people having the same problem and they got it to turn by pecking the slot using a drift punch and a hammer. Worth a try I guess. Keep lovin' the scoot and the message forum.
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spanner+hammer = worked "ok"
(the spanner provides pushing action, not turning)
You definitely will need to use the short tube that's also in the toolset along with the spanner. A longer tube will be better.
I used a long handled, flat blade screwdriver to move it. I never could get a good bite on it with the stock tool that came with it.
I'd be careful about pounding on or sticking pointy things into, the rear shock. It IS a presurized cylinder with fairly close tolerances...
You really only have to "hook" the spanner on one of the slots. Use the ovaled extension/handle only about half way down the spanner's shaft to get more leverage.
I couldn't get mine to budge either until I read a thread somewhere in here stating you had to approach from right underneath rather than any other angle (off-side etc.) Then I still only found a few degrees of turn was available, but it could be moved with just the special tool.
On centerstand, I had my rear wheel off, i think, and i got the little spanner tool and from the left side hooked it at an angle, then pulled it flat against the adjuster, pushed with all my might... got it to move about 1/2 notch. Did that to desired position/preload. The higher you get, the harder it gets. I do weights consistently, and it was a struggle with both arms... so expect a good fight. GOODLUCK! :thumb:
I just did this last weekend. I had it on the centerstand, and came at it from the left hand side, with my head under the bike to get as close as possible. I had the tool above the chain and as close to the frame as possible.
Just try different angles on the tool until you can see that you'll get a good turn while maintaining a good grip on one of the notches. The handle extender was key.
Note that this was going from 6/7 down to 4, so you might want to tackle it from the right side if you're going counter-clockwise (up instead of down).
It was a pain but did happen eventually.
Quote from: tophI had it on the centerstand, and came at it from the left hand side[...]
Note that this was going from 6/7 down to 4, so you might want to tackle it from the left side if you're going counter-clockwise (up instead of down).
Did you mean to say
right for one of those? I'm not just picking at nits; I really want to know!
After 30,000 miles I think I just might want to adjust my preload up a bit. ('Bout time, eh?)
Whoops! Yes, my theory (I think) is left hand side to go down the scale, right hand side to go up. Original post edited for clarification.
Of course, I'm right handed and was pulling with my right arm out of habit. I'd imagine if someone was lefty, they'd reverse the order!
Thanks.
If I ever get myself to dig out my toolkit and try this, I'll try to remember to take pictures....
It's weird that you guys are having so much trouble moving it. Mine moved quite easily once I discovered the tool in the tool pouch. I cranked 'er up a couple of notches with no problem at all.
I found that removing the small rubber/plastic mud guard that's below and in front of the rear wheel helps. Helped a lot in getting the right leverage. Remember that the flat part of the spanner wrench is at the front of the movement - the hook part trails behind as you turn. It's an exercise in swearing, sweat, and bloody knuckles if you try it the other way - I know :).
It took many attempts with different angles from different sides to make it work, but once you figure out how to turn it , it's not too difficult. Toph speaks the truth - it matters which side you approach from depending on if you're tightening or loosening - but I don't remember which... :?
I actually did mine today, and bumped it from the stock 4 to up to 6... left side of bike, using tool with extender... was very easy... but again, my shock has a good sheen of chain lube on it where i didn't clean up very well one day, so maybe that helped
my problem was not so much leverage as that when i put the tool in position it only had ~1/2 inch of travel space
yeah you really can't get it too far generally, sometimes you need to reposition the spanner twice to get it one notch up. as for increased leverage, if needed, the extended grip is hollow, you can stick another wrench into it, thereby increasing the lever size and making it easier, just make sure you don't tip the bike.
as for going down notches, this may be bad for the shock, i don't know, if you tighten it up past 6, it springs out back to 1. it makes a little noise (spring jumping down into a more relaxed position), but doesn't seem to do any damage. so if you're at 6 and got a ways to go down for some reason, i find this method to work pretty well.
I had a KZ1000 in the early 80s(quite a bike even by todays standards). It has shocks on either side of the wheel. Very easy to adjust. Now you have to be a boneless contortionist with a death grip and the strength of the Hulk.