Does anybody use combat boots for their riding boots? i've been wondering about that for awhile.
They're definitely over-the-ankle, they're leather, i believe they're steel-toe, and they should have decent grip(after all, they're meant for whatever situations combat may occur in), and best of all, they're cheap!
But it doesn't really matter if they aren't any good for riding a bike.
So what do you guys(and ladies) think? Good alternative to sneakers or riding boots? Bad idea?
I'll wear them if i am in uniform, but I'd stay away from steel toes if at all possible. they're not designed to protect your feet from anything other than a direct crushing force to your toes.
sure they would suffice. my buddy wears his from the airforce. Gofer, why do u need more protection than combat boots provide?? damn i ride in sneakers :)
Quote from: weaselnozesGofer, why do u need more protection than combat boots provide?? damn i ride in sneakers :)
I think they should be great, and much better than most people's work boots. Also, they're sturdier and better quality than most street riding boots. However, when I was shopping, I wanted boots which had a toe box, a heel counter, and armor plates over both sides of each ankle. Also, the toe boxes of m/c boots are usually a plastic, and don't get as cold as metal in winter. Desipite the added sturdiness of the combat boots, there are some really nice features in m/c boots, so I went that way.
There was a lot of contoversy on an old thread about steel toes but my company gives me steel toed boots and shoes and I used to use them, still do occasionally. I have no problem other than laces. You have probably seen the 101 ways to drop a bike thing and I actually had my left boot come unlaced and wrap around the footpeg on my previous bike, came to a stop lent to the left to put down my foot and OOOOOOOOOOOOOH, just managed to prevent her dropping by grabbing a post in the car-park. I now use Frank Thomas' Aquaboots or a trainer meant for pedal cyclists, no laces.
As long as you are happy about the lace issue stick with the old "use what you have" philosophy.
yeah, laces can be a real issue, esp. with sneakers. I have a pair of New Balance 601s that are all old and beaten up which I occasionally use for riding which have really long laces. I've gotten them tangled in the clutch lever a couple times. usually what ends up happening is I notice as I'm coming to a stop and once I've been able to put a foot down, I tuck the exposed lace into the side of the shoe. It looks pretty lameass, but less so than falling over onto the Hyundai next to me at the light. :mrgreen:
Regards,
Riz
:thumb:
i use Li high High top work boots with steel toe, mainly for work, but always for riding. i use the extra long laces and tie the cuff of the pantleg to the top of the boot (Blouse the pantleg at the boot) like in the military, this keeps the laces tight, the pant leg doesnt flop into chain area, and pantleg dosent hook end of peg on way down (had it happen before)
PLEASE STAY AWAY from riding with combat/work boots, I know a guy who lost 3 of his toes when he crashed into a car. The steel toe folded in an chopped off his toes, they were able to re attach the big toe and the next one down but the rest are gone. The problem with steel toes is that they are meant to take impact from something falling on it not from an objet directly in front of it. Invest in a good pair of boots, you can find a good pair for $200, not all that much compaired to the alternative... Though if you have to choose between combat boots and shoes combat boots would be better in almost every case. Ride hard and Ride safe.
i wear combat boots when i'm riding somewhere thati know i'm gonna be walking a long time, because it's too hard to walk real far in my riding boots, but it depends what you wear now, if you just wear tennis shoes, then yeah, combat boots will be a ton better, but now that i'm used to wearing my riding boots, i don't really like the combat boots too much, no real ankle support, they're nto stiff enough, i'm pretty confident if i crashed, my boots would keep my ankles from getting too twisted, but the combat boots don't really compair, because the leather just softens and moves easier, the riding boots are made to be stiff,
the other nice part is how stiff the front is, the soles and on top of the toes, which i notice makes a huge difference in how must stronger and smoother my braking and shifting is, because it's more of a solid click, instead of the soft shoe giving resistance, but like i said, it all depends, you get those things in your tennis shoes, so if you switched to combat boots from those it'd feel good, if you're used to ridingboots, i wouldn't bother
Quote from: dyranPLEASE STAY AWAY from riding with combat/work boots, I know a guy who lost 3 of his toes when he crashed into a car. The steel toe folded in an chopped off his toes, they were able to re attach the big toe and the next one down but the rest are gone.
and you honestly think this force would not have crushed his foot if the boots had not been reinforced?
that said, in my experience most combat boots don't have steel toes. i use a pair of 10" paratrooper boots i got for $40. good solid construction and comfortable enough to walk around in all day.
cheers,
will
Taping up the laces works good to ensure that they don't come undone and get caught in the chain or on the bike. Duct tape works fine for this. Good ol' bike, grand ol' forum.
C...
I usually ride in my fire dept. station boots. They're mostly leather in construction with vented sides, tons of comfort on the sole, and a side zipper (for easy in and out) and velcro strap on the side that can tie down the laces. Personally...with the side zipper I put them on once 2 years ago...tied it as tight as I wanted, then fused the knot so it won't come undone and removed excess laces. Now I just use the side zipper. For a good "combat" boot check out Magnum boots, or goto Galls Public Safety Equipment (http://www.galls.com/style.html?assort=general_catalog&style=SP549&cat=1548) for footwear.
10" jump boots here too.
no steel toe.
I wouldn't recommend steel toe either, but jump boots kick a**.
I wear jump boots too. You can tuck the lace tails into your sock cuz tucking them into the boots sometimes leads to a pressure point. My riding pants cover them up so I leave the boot snakes free. Not that I need the extra length, but the almost 1" sole is nice.
I'm also looking for better boots. I'm leaning toward Sidis but that's too much $$ right now to replace something I already have.
Well would you Adam-and-eve it, the day after I mention laces with a warning................
Arrived at work this morning in my riding boots, change at work into steel toed "oxfords" Just nip up the town at lunchtime for a bite, don't change, come back to the office and ooops left lace undone and wrapped around the gear changer..........shook it off stayed upright, just.
I suppose there is a lesson there somewhere.
I didn't want to spend the money on motorclcle boots. Last weekend I went to Wal-Mart and they had lots of over the ankle suede or leather boots with a very hard front toe area (not steel), padded ankle and waterproof. The company that makes them is Ozark Trail and the style I got was called Phoenix. The soles are thick and they have great traction.
They were on sale for 33 bucks.
They even come with 2 pair of laces. I cover up the laces with a velcro strap around the area above my ankle.
The only drawback is caused by the large hard front toe area. It's a bit more difficult to fit your foot under the shifter, but I'm sure I'll get used to it.
I've been wearing my Corcorans (combat boots) while riding. I've been tucking the laces into the boot for over 7 years, so no big deal there. Only problem with my current pair is they are mostly nylon with leather in just the toe and heel (makes them Very easy to shine for work, though ;) ). Eventually, I want to get the exact pair in all leather for riding cause they're very comfy and a bit cheaper than m/c boots.
Quoteand you honestly think this force would not have crushed his foot if the boots had not been reinforced?
I'm not saying that combat boots are bad just anything with steel toes are not good. And I really don't know what you are trying to say here...my friend had many broken bones in his foot and he has had to do a fair amount of physio...I'm just relaying this to anyone out there who is wearing steel toed boots. Have a great day all.
Quote from: R3dI've been wearing my Corcorans (combat boots) while riding.
Funny, there's a town about an hour away from where I live named Corcoran, and there's a Federal pen. there. I think Charley Manson is locked up there. Anyway, thought that was curious that a brand of combat boots has the same name. Nothing really in that town besides the damn prison, so who knows if there is any connection...
Oh yeah, I steal my dad's Alpinestars something or other when I go for long rides, back and forth to work I use skate shoes. Yes, it's ghetto, but I have nowhere to store a set of riding boots while at work. Ah well...
THREAD RES!
ok Got first track day coming up. I'm plopping down $400 for a suit, $200 for track day + gas for the ~5 hour trip.
I have a helmet and nice gloves. The best boots I have are combat boots--full leather, full ankle coverage, no steel toe, ridged sole.
Will they be track worthy? I really don't want to spend anymore money than I already am. I think they would provide decent protection in a crash. The leather is very thick except there is no rigidness around the ankle like in motorcycle boots covered in plastic and what not.
Thoughts?
The track should have a set of reqs... I'd just search around on their page.
If they don't mention toe-sliders or anything specific other than "leather" and/or "covers ankle" then you should be fine.
Quote from: RVertigo on October 30, 2006, 03:24:37 PM
The track should have a set of reqs... I'd just search around on their page.
If they don't mention toe-sliders or anything specific other than "leather" and/or "covers ankle" then you should be fine.
They want
2) Riding boots that fully cover the ankle.
I should be good
LOL they do say this though. I wonder how much teasing I'll get for brining a 500.
YOU MUST RIDE A MOTORCYCLE APPROPRIATE FOR HIGH PERFORMANCE TRACK RIDING. SEVERELY UNDERPOWERED MOTORCYCLES, OR THOSE NOT SUITED TO HIGH SPEEDS OR LEAN ANGLES WILL NOT BE ALLOWED ON THE TRACK,
Hmm... "Riding boots"
That's totally open to interpretation... :icon_confused:
And... If anyone give you shaZam! about riding a 500, pass 'em in the corner and :flipoff: as you go by. :icon_mrgreen:
Here in Seattle, waterproof riding boots sure come in handy, then again, waterproof everything comes in handy, as well as heated grips, a heated vest, and a balaclava. No shame in my game.
Yeah... I don't have anything heated... But, it's all waterproof and pretty warm.
I didn't wear any of it this morning. My little buddy sure was chilly when I got to work. :o :laugh:
Sense you spent that much money already why don't you contact them and make sure. I'd be pissed at myself if I got there and they wouldn't let me on the track. Never hurts to make sure.
Yeap Stay away from Any Steel toed Boots I had a Budy that lost his foot all of the way back to his Heel in a Logging Accident.He would have Probably only Suffered from a broken foot if he had been Wearing Regular boots.When the Log Pushed his Foot Back the Toe Clipped His foot of about 3 inches from his heel.They Had to take the rest off up to his Heel because it was Damaged too bad.He Still works and after 4 -5 Years it still bothers Him and the Last time I talked to him he said that the doctors may Have to take it the rest of the way off past his Heel on up his Leg so he can wear a Prostetic Foot.
I was Lucky back a few Years Ago I was wearing a Pair of Steel toed Lacer Work Boots.My Uncle ran over my toes with the Tractor with the Front wheel and it only folded up a Little bit but not enough to cut into my Toes. :o If it had been the rear Tire and It had gotten under one of the Cleets I would have had a Permenent Limp too.Since the Tractor Weights 7 ton the would have had to remove my toes Like a Can of Sardines.Steel toes Have there Place but only for stuff weighing less than 200lb.
I actually wear Combat Boots All of the time.I really like the full Leather ones.Right Now I'm wearing the Kind that the Guys in Iraq are wearing Tan Bates Durashocks.they have the Canvas upper and are pretty Comfy but I really Felt for them this Summer when it got Really hot.I only saw a few 100+ Degree days and my feet Almost Fried.I can only Imagine what it would be like at 120+
Steel toed boots protect your toes better than regular boots. Typically, anything that will cause the steel toe to take off your foot will take off your foot by itself. Others are just freak accidents. It's like arguing against seat belts because in a small fraction of cases, not wearing one would have been the best option.
A couple weeks ago Mythbusters on Discovery Channel featured a segment on steel toed boots to verify or dispell any basis for the amputation horror stories we sometimes hear. The boots were tested by dropping an anvil on the toe from about 1 story high. They came to the conclusion that steel toes were not a safety hazzard. However, after watching the show and seeing the results I wasn't as confident in their conclusion as they were. :icon_rolleyes:
I stole this from http://www.sportbikes.ws/showthread.php?t=20317
Stolen from the web
Motorcycle riding boots are designed with a particular purpose in mind, and as a result, will initially look unusual to you. Also, they simply aren't as comfortable for walking around as boots designed for general street use or hiking. The trouble is, since you're used to selecting footwear that is designed for walking, riding boots with flimsier soles, slider plates, extended heels, padded shins and various attached armored plates look strange initially. So it's a dilemma to choose from different designs.
Motorcycle boots are designed for riding and crashing a motorcycle. That's the time when you'll wear them out. So, you don't need thick padding on the sole. You'll also want a stable platform when standing on the pegs so you'll need a boot with a stiffened sole instead of a flexible sole needed for easier walking. Further, you don't want the boot to get snagged on the bike or anything else, so you want zippers and Velcro fasteners instead of laces.
Steel-toed boots were initially developed to reduce the severity of foot damage from industrial accidents by providing an external armor for the toes. The impacts associated with motorcycle accidents generally cause blunt force trauma unlike damage caused by sharp and heavy object impacts that steel toes are designed to protect against. So motorcycle boots are designed to provide padding to spread-out the impact loads rather than deflect them. This approach also allows the rider to feel the shift lever with his toes, an essential feature.
A low-side crash can pin your ankle between the bike and the road so a well designed boot will place hard armor plates between your ankle and the road surface so that the boot ablates and not your foot. Additional armor, an extended heel, or a slider at the top of the boot will keep the road from removing the side of your shin.
The major motorcycle boot manufacturers have years of experience designing boots based on actual damage they see to their boots from a large number of accidents, so over time, designs have evolved to provide the greatest protection for the largest number and variety of accidents while preserving essential feel, flexibility and foot range-of-motion.
For example, a high-side or crash into another vehicle needs impact protection so you'll want a padded shin, tendon guard and padded ankle cups on the boot.
The boot also needs to resist twisting forces that can break the ankle and lower leg bones so a design that provides for good adjustment for fit is crucial. Some boots have internal stiffeners to resist and distribute torsion loads, some use external stiffeners. This needs to be done without making the ankle so rigid that it can't move to shift.
Aggressive riding sometimes will bring your boot too close to the road in a turn. So you will find a need for replaceable toe sliders that are made from materials that promote sliding instead of grabbing the pavement.
In rainy climates consider a boot featuring a breathable water-proof liner. Gore-Tex, Sympatex and Tepor membranes have this feature. For sunny climates consider vented boot designs and use CoolMax socks to wick away perspiration.
Finally, the way the new boots feel walking around the store is not the same as they will feel on the bike. On the bike they don't have to support your full body weight constantly so keep this in mind when selecting size and style. If you plan to do a lot of walking around at your destination bring along your street shoes in your backpack, tank bag or saddlebags. Cable lock your boots to your bike.
The best approach is to buy basic black, unless you're comfortable wearing bright multi-colored boots with street clothes. You know (don't you?) you shouldn't wear jeans when riding, but you probably will anyway. Some designs with large shin protectors prevent them from being worn under a jeans pant leg.
That said, there are plenty of accidents where a street or hiking boot has saved a foot and the slower the speed of the accident, the better the odds.
It's your foot ...
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Buy some race boots. I use Joe Rocket GPX boots. Combat boots are not made for motorcycle crashing. You need a boot that is designed for a crash. What are you going to do if you low side and the rear set falls on your ankle? Check out this vid. Nasty warning.
http://www.big-boys.com/articles/bikeanklebreak.html
Good boots save feet.
I don't know where most of you guys got your 'combat boots' but if they're steel toed... the are NOT combats!
At least not Canadian combats.... picture this... hiking for miles and miles with a heavy backpack and steel toed boots weighing down your feet. It's a definite No-no. So for that reason; Combats are just not steel toe'd.
PS: I ride my bike with my Combat Boots. They're comfortable and sturdy and if laced properly if ever you're in an accident, a paramedic should be able to remove your boot by cutting the laces relatively easily with a simple pocket knife.
Quote from: joedude on November 01, 2006, 09:38:52 PM
I don't know where most of you guys got your 'combat boots' but if they're steel toed... the are NOT combats!
Same with US mil spec boots. We don't have steel toed boots.