I just purchased the stuff from Srinath this weekend and have it installed on my bike. Here are some pics if you want to see how great it looks. The one pic is my bike with an old beat up Cobra F1 exhaust. Such a big difference!! The bike sounds great now!!! Has a low, superbike growl to it now!!!
http://community.webshots.com/album/209902436ELtDVD
hmm... does it have to be installed at an angle so parallel to the ground? (or is that just how you like it?)
I agree. It does look kind of low. I bet it sounds awesome though! And uhhhh.........you need a new rear tire bud.
I would imagine that in order to fit the pipe properly and set it at a higher angle, you'd have to bend the header pipe. The further forward you mount it, the flatter the pipe, but it can't hang back too far!!! The rear tire is already on order, thanks for the head's up, though!!!
Its the exact same location as stock exhaust ... considering its a shade larger dia than stock ... no where else to mount it. Honestly it fits exactly like stock... even almost the same length... compare it to yours and it will come within a few mm here and there. His cobra is so high ...It has a set of dog legs in it and it fits on the headers right under the motor it makes the wileyco look like its hanging down a lot more too ...
Cool.
Srinath.
The pipe good but is the tip angled? It looks like it points towards the tire
I bet it sounds great though. Is it louder than the Cobra? The GS has a pretty cool bassy rumble with an exhaust
so no rejetting required right?
70 cam: Snout is angled a bit more to the tire than on a regular application of the can. However the slip on and even the weld on flanges can be turned to make it look right ... This pipe was hacked in the wrong place and I made the best of it. So its off a bit to the left.
Weaselnose: If you definetely didn't want to rejet... I'll put a removable choker in it ... and when you want full flow just knock it off and you're good.
Cool.
Srinath.
is there a way the flange can be made so that the can points up?
what would one cost me 1/2 the length of that can?
Yes Frost, there is a way.
I ordered one of srinath's cans and should be done in the next couple of weeks...sooner than later I hope. I plan on cutting off the header after the merger collector and buying some straight tube stock and an elbow and running it at a similar angle as adamwade's Cobra. Probably parallel with the bottom line on the side plastic. Though it could feasably be done with a series of slip-ons, it's just shoddy. Weld it or have it welded.
Plan of attack: I think I'm going to weld the elbow onto the can adapter plate, strap it onto the rear set, then set the can to the angle I like(I want to use the rear set mount if possible), make a plumb cut on the elbow, then run the straight tube stock directly back to the merger collector, avoiding having to make any bends to make it match up. Maybe I'd be able to use a little wedge of elbow tube if necessary. Or, I could start at the front and work back, havn't decided yet which way would be more beneficial. I have decided, though, that I will tack weld all of the pieces in place while the exhaust is mounted to the bike, then remove it to finish my welds and clean them up, if necessary. ;)
The key point with headers is: the less bends, the better. So, with that in mind, while adamwade's header is better from a performance standpoint, I prefer the look of a more angled header. And we aren't talking about a substantial loss of power with such a minor bend... I don't even know if it would be detected by a dyno.
Blue, I don't think there are any more for sale, and definitely no special orders. srinath bought out all the dennis krook scratch and blemish stock.
Srinath, I really like the looks of your products. Is there any web page you have where I can see everything you make along with your prices?
OK guys...
Frost : UP ...where ... honestly it can point anywhere ... how much effort are you willing to put in.
Bluknyt: What....
Dom: You fabbing all that pipe etc... Fine up to you.
Duofes: I'll post a link with pics. I dont make these things all the time BTW... and I bought these as closeouts and blems (not Dennis Crook off ebay) but from anysunday racing off ebay - better stuff Dennis crook just had stainless ... and the blemishes are getting worse and worse as their $$$ drops :x . Denins Crook on ebay is selling them ...whihc is why I posted it.
Now These are meant to be slipped on and fit just like stock can. The one Adam has, on my bike fit just like the stock one did. I had got the headers as a trade form this other guy that had started to chop the thing in the wrong place and the wrong angle... so its fit is a shade off but its off to the side not lower. Its about 1 inch or so further right than a stock can. Now with all you guys hacking up pipe and welding it which ever way... OK dont blame me if it ends up costing you $$$ at the muffler shop. I was trying to package it so no welding will be needed. "Bigorange" has managed to d what I intended... just ask him if he had any trouble.
Now Dom you would be better off with a centered flange instead of an offset I think. How about I send you a flat round plate as well wihtout a damn anyhitng it in... you can do what you want ...
Cool.
Srinath.
srinath, I think a plate with a centered hole would be best. I can't remember, was the plate made out of 1/4" or 1/8"? Can you make one with the three countersunk mounting holes but no exhaust opening?
70 Cam Guy: The pipe is actually quieter than the Cobra. The Cobra had a very annoying and loud sound that I nor my neighbors really cared for. Sounded like a bike with no muffler at all. As for the WileyCo exhaust can, it has a deep throathy rumble to it. Sounds to me to be very similar to a Ducati Monster. I think it actually makes the bike sound more like a true sport bike. To be honest, at idle, it's pretty darn quiet. But, when you open it up, it screams nice!!! I'll try and get some video with sound and post it.
Quote from: Domsrinath, I think a plate with a centered hole would be best. I can't remember, was the plate made out of 1/4" or 1/8"? Can you make one with the three countersunk mounting holes but no exhaust opening?
OK I can do that... the plate is 1/4 inch thick BTW.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: adamwadeI'll try and get some video with sound and post it.
i would love to see some video or hear some audio!
OK guys I been thinking ... on the exhaust flanges ...
If you didn't want a slip fit ... I'll send you a offset hole flange without the lip - BTW that is the only option for 01+ bikes. Better to weld to... that lipjust adds 1/2 inch to the length too ...
Then if you wanna do custom pipe work like Dom is planning ... I'll send you a flange with bolt holes only and bolts ... no hole for the pipe ... you punch that yourself.
The slip fit flange and the whole method is in fact geared towards fitting it in the same location as stock exhaust can. So if you want different ... you're sorta going to have to fit it with some welding, cutting, bending ... whatever.
Cool.
Srinath.
BTW the plate is over 1/4 inch thick... closer to 32-33 hundredths or 5/16th ...
Cool.
Srinath.
i wanted a can, 1/2 the length of the ones you make now(a shorty), how much?
Bluknyt ... You did not think I made the cans did you... how... dammit I'll be rich if I can make them ... I bought these offline seeing it from an ebay seller and getting them to sell me all the ones they had lying about... Got better quality and cheaper $$ than dennis crook ... the only piece I made was that flange (invisible pretty much) that was on the head pipe.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: seshadri_srinathBTW that is the only option for 01+ bikes.
Srinath, do you mean "presently," or have you decided not to provide slip-on flanges for 01+ bikes? I have been meaning to send you the measurements you asked for, just haven't got around to it yet. I was planning on buying a can and ordering a flange tomorrow.
BTW, got the fork brace today. Thanks!
-Gavin
OK The measurements are needed, but I am thinking and I have had the pipe chopped up and I fit each flange to that and make sure its tight and the fact that it actually does fit... OK send me the exact diamater and I'll see what I can do.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: seshadri_srinathOK The measurements are needed.
Crap. I just went through my PMs and I deleted the one you sent with the list of measurements you needed. Can you please send them again? Sorry about that.
-Gavin
how do you think aluminum would hold up as a system/can?
Edit: forget i said that :mrgreen:
Brain farted on me giving me an idea on some supplies
Quote from: gavinQuote from: seshadri_srinathOK The measurements are needed.
Crap. I just went through my PMs and I deleted the one you sent with the list of measurements you needed. Can you please send them again? Sorry about that.
-Gavin
The diameter of the header pipe right before the weld its some weird ass 2.083 inches or whatever ... exact number please, and the exact gap between the part of the head pipe just before the weld and swingarm... put a socket in there ... the one that is tightest fit... and measure that socket's OD ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: Blueknythow do you think aluminum would hold up as a system/can?
Edit: forget i said that :mrgreen:
Brain farted on me giving me an idea on some supplies
Aluminum is likely to get eaten a little by the sulphur in the gasoline ... however the aluminum end caps and wall on the better made exhausts are thick enough and are made from decent alloy ... like 6061 which has very good resistance to corrosive environments ... It will ne a loooooong time before you see it blow a hole ... cheap crap in aluminum holds up rather poorly ... if you want thin, stainless is the way, and stainless is heavy... So use thick tubing for the outer, and 6061 or good corrosion resistant alloy for the caps and stainless for the baffle will be my advice...
Cool.
Srinath.
OK I am working on replacing that offset flange idea for the slip on's ... I have had some complaints mainly with where the can points... I think I'll do what Dom was going to do. Get a pipe and bend it and fit it and weld that to the flange. All the ones that have bought ...get a free upgrade ... sorry I know its more work... but not too hard this time...
BTW Bigorange - this method wont work for the swap across method... so I am sorry you are sorta SOL...
The others ...I'll send out the stuff as soon as I get it made. Every one that has a 89-00 bike and has paid for it, or has received it or has bought it from me in person... send me an address, I'll send it out ASAP... The offset flange was a cool idea... unfortunately its use was evident only to me ... For those not bought it yet ... its going to be $40 now... and its a better product with faar less measuring and cutting... and its far less taking the pipe off and refitting it... cos its not going to have to come off at all... Pics comming soon.
Cool.
Srinath.
I think you might be able to buy pre-bent 3.5mm elbows somewhere. Not only elbows but 135 degree bends and some other dimensions...you get the idea...I'll look around and see what I can find.
Ha ha... I have 10 feet of stainless steel pipe that wants to talk to you about that ... Pre bent is fine but the bends we need are a set of 2 and they are in 2 different directions and have to be close and tight to seem like one twisting bend... The exhaust should be well forward and swoop up ... No 1/2 assed saggy looking pipe pointing outward, I have had it... complaints ... I deal with complaints by kicking the crap out of them... anyway sorry to all that had trouble ... remedy is comming ... watch this space ...
Cool.
Srinath.
OK its done... and replacements for everyone who ordered from me ... send an address ...
BTW I would like the old flange back... since I am still using offset flanges ... And please tell me what your bolts look like ...tapered allen head or straight allen head ... helps for countersinking ...
Bigorange - Please get with me PM or on this thread ... I believe I have the answers to the issues you had...
Adam wade - send me an address and the old flange back when done ...
Se7enty7 - send me flange when you can... your stuff is going tonight - I have your address...
Dom & Laura - The stuff is getting sent tonight.
All others - The flange a pipe now need no disassembly of the head pipes ... slip on at its finest ... cut and fit wiht it on the bike ... Its $40 ... up from $30 ...but it will save you a good hour+ in time ... and look 1000 times better ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Cool.
Srinath.
http://www.gstwin.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=member_bikes&id=avt
http://www.gstwin.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=member_bikes&id=avs
http://www.gstwin.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=member_bikes&id=avr
New pictures of the pipe ...
Cool.
Srinath.
How does the new pipe attach? Same slip on way but further down the pipe?
Looks great!
OK tiy see in the side view the secion of the pipe that is stainless steel colored ... it slips on 2 inches from the point where the 2 header pipes are joined... look for the last weld in that Y connectin and cut it 2 -3 inches behind that.
Cool.
Srinath.
OK there is about 30 of these cans left on ebay ... $50 and ~10-12 for shipping ... they are down to 30 ... from a 150+ count a couple months ago...wait longe and the blemishes get worse ... mine were un blemed ... but I got it from a different place...
This is one of them ...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2491136005&category=35596
I have a slip on pipe and flange combo that will let you bolt it on a stock GS header and I only have ~ 7 or so of those ... They are $40 and shipping (about $4-7) ... $100 - 105 for a good slip on set with well made stainless pipes etc ...
Cool.
Srinath.
It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to secure a couple of these if you plan to have dual headers made. If the dual header plans fall through(which basically means that production costs are ungodly expensive) or you change your mind later you can always resell them on Ebay, and only be out a couple of bucks, or just keep one for a spare. That's what I'm going to do.
Cheers!
BTW left muffler = right miffler... just sticker locations are different ... which BTW fell off on some of mine in shipment :x
Cool.
Srinath.
Yo, check dis out:
(http://onfinite.com/libraries/175828/d4d.jpg)
Thanks srinath, looks and sounds awesome...I'll work on gittin some sound bytes up.
And, no, my bike is not leaking doo doo.
Oooooo....K sure it isn't ... :lol:
BTW now the centerstand will hit your left foot ...
So what you do is... lie down next to the bike on the bikes right side with the bike on side stand... and mark on the centerstand where it hits the shock linkage ... Then get a chunk of car tire ... usually riding along a highway you'll see 1000 pieces a mile... and zip tie it to the centerstand...
Cool.
Srinath.
can dom or someone measure how far from the weld on the stock pipe you had to cut?
thanks
I cut it 2 and 1/4 ... but it doesn't even slide in 1/2 the way usually ... I also have that slipper to fit the stock header and cobra I have whihc I got off adamwade ... So YMMV ...
Cool.
Srinath.
well, I dont remember how much was left on the stocker, proly bout 3-1/2" to 4" to the weld. Also, if you notice that it wants to rotate back into the way of your caliper, keep rotating it in that direction and it will turn out again and feel totally solid. You might need a longer hanger bolt, too.
And you might have to clean the header off all the paint ... meaing sand paper it a bit and spray wd40 on everyhting ... its a Buddha Loves You to take off and put on ... and after you get it on ... taking it off will be a royal pain ... but else it might leak... so trade off...
Cool.
Srinath.
okay and about paint... any old paint?
people here recommend grill paint... for cars you should never do that (to headers) because that grill paint is designed to not allow ANY heat to be released and will ruin your cat... so is this okay for bikes since they don't have cats to heat up??what about muffler packing damage?
I was thinking about cutting off the center stand stopper thing and having it welded to the pipe you made me... good idea or no?
They make high temp black spray paint that I've seen at auto parts stores. Look for something in the 1200 - 1500 degree range. Not the 5oo degree engine paint. They also make a black spray paint that I've seen at www.denniskirk.com that is made specially for exhausts.
Quote from: adamwadeThey make high temp black spray paint that I've seen at auto parts stores. Look for something in the 1200 - 1500 degree range. Not the 5oo degree engine paint. They also make a black spray paint that I've seen at www.denniskirk.com that is made specially for exhausts.
the thing I don't like about those high temp exhaust paint is that they are made for headers.... and have to get REALLY hot for the paint to cure. I think the muffler pipe is too far back to get hot enough to cure the paint
Just bake them in your oven.
The paint will cure at ~400 in about 10 mins ... and you will get it to 400 heck 600 or more at the mid pipe point ... and why paint it ... its stainless ... yea I know the flange is steel...
The stand button ... well if you want to ... but make sure you have the pipe in the perfect location... cos if you dont and have to rotate it ... its going to be off ... I'd say forget that and just ziptie a chunk of car tire to the stand ... but hey its your bike ... and if you dont want it looking all purty with them zip ties then its your problem ... :lol: ... You better meet the 100 zip tie minimum that I require before a bike is considered GStwin material ...
Q: Guess what is holding my GS together ???
A: Zip ties, duct tape and inner tube ...
Cool.
Srinath.
For exhaust paint, see the Exhaust temps? (http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11807) thread, particularly this post (http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=99247#99247) about PJ1's "Fast Black" 1500-degree exhaust paint.
I'm pretty sure I've seen this stuff on the shelf at my local dealer, but I can't remember what they were asking for it.
Quote from: Domwell, I dont remember how much was left on the stocker, proly bout 3-1/2" to 4" to the weld. Also, if you notice that it wants to rotate back into the way of your caliper, keep rotating it in that direction and it will turn out again and feel totally solid. You might need a longer hanger bolt, too.
i know it's a pain but can you actually measure the distance for me?
Thanks!
3-55/64"
Quote from: Dom3-55/64"
wow thanks... is that to the cut itself; or the end of the added pipe?
thanks!
On your stock headers, you will notice that they merge into a collector. I measured from the last weld on that. Srinath's pipe is very forgiving, a 1/4" to 1/2" either way won't matter all that much.
If you are worried that you might cut off too much, start with 6" from the last weld, then that will give you a rough estimate of how much more needs to come off.
Remember this, your first cut with the sawzall with the headers attached. After that it will be impossible to cut another piece off while the headers are on the bike. Believe me, the thing will shake so hard you'll never be able to get a cut started.. Hafta clamp them down.
Quote from: Dom3-55/64"
Someone has those plastic dial calipers and waaaaay too much time...
Cool.
Srinath.
;)