I applied liquid screwdriver to 3 of the 4 screws that hold the float bowls on. Several times. It's been soaking in it for about 24 hours and I still can't get the things off :x I'm nearly to the point of stripping them. The screwdriver looks like the right size. Also tried the old Hit-it-with-a-hammer trick. At least I got 1 off. I'd hate to resort to the old Bash-it-with-a-hammer trick.
Anyone else have it this bad?
I use Aerokroil or Liquid Wrench for all my stuck nuts. The Aerokroil works on a super super microscopic level so it can creep underneath the screw head and seep into the threads. Sometimes it doesn't seem like it's working...so I throw some vice grips around the pan head and torque it out...that's what I have had to do a couple times. Then take those screws to the hardware store and buy yourself some button head allen bolts... :cheers:
The Previous Owner tried to get my bike's bowls off... and failed (leaving a couple of partially chewed-up screws). I managed to get them off OK.
The conventional wisdom is: get an impact screwdriver. I have an El Cheapo one coming from Harber Freight for $5:
(http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/37500-37599/37530.gif) (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=37530)
What I did, was put the carbs on the ground, between my feet; take a socket bar; and connect it to a long socket extension:
(http://gs500.specialgreen.com/pictorial/remove-carburetor-jets/impact-driver.jpg)
...and put a quality, brand-new screwdriver bit in the end. I hunched over the socket bar, leaning all my weight onto the socket bar; and tried twisting. Since I was hunched over the bar, this really meant rotating my whole body in relation to my feet. Actually, I didn't have to really twist; I mostly concentrated on pressing down firmly, but I imagined that the twisting was happening too... and the locked screws broke free. Once you get a screw to move 1/16", then you're home free, so put most of your effort into pressing down firmly, and not into turning.
The advantage of using a long extension from a socket or breaker bar to the screwdriver bit, is that this helps you press straight down. A short screwdriver is too easy to tilt to one side or the other. A big T-handle breaker bar would be even better than a regular breaker bar. But again, the conventional wisdom is that an impact screwdriver is best.
Yep, impact driver does the trick. Combines the rattling loose of the hammer stroke with real good purchase of the bit in them friggin' Phillips heads.
Liquid screwdriver? Isn't that a compound which is supposed to prevent bits slipping from heads? Don't think that soaking in that will do much good. Or does this combine a penetrating oil with friction enhancers that don't penetrate?
And exchange those screws for something sensible, such as Allen or Torx.
sears has a good quality impact driver set for $20. A required addition to ANY tool set, imo. The suzuki screws strip if you look at them funny, and an impact driver really helps
Once you get them out, you know to replace them with Allen heads (cap screws, whatever they're called- the ones that take an Allen Key)? Otherwise you'll have the same problem next time.
I have had to use vise grip pliers on some of the screws and others a dremel was used to cut a slot in the screw head to use a flat blade after stripping the phillips head.
Be careful not to damage the plastic tops to the carbs. It is easy to break the nipples on the caps when the carbs are upside down and you are beating on them trying to get the screws to break free. :mrgreen:
Quote from: dgyverIBe careful not to damage the plastic tops to the carbs. It is easy to break the nipples on the caps when the carbs are upside down and you are beating on them trying to get the screws to break free. :mrgreen:
Yup. I took mine off.
Well, I got the impact driver and it worked great. Thanks for all the help everyone!
btw MarkusN, you were right about the liquid screwdriver/wrench difference. I meant to type liquid wrench in the post.
Now I can get down to business :mrgreen: