Steel-braided front brake cable:
Galfer custom fitted lines - $??? (http://www.cyclebrakes.com/html/custom_lines.html)
- have to send your brake line in or fax dimensions / diagram for $$ estimate
Russel lines for GS500 ('90-'00) - $42.46 (http://www.cyclepages.com/ProductGroupDisp.aspx?ProductGroupID=4001155)
- need to choose SUZUKI from pull down menu first to see/order
Spiegler lines - $60+ (http://www.whaccessories.com/GS500Accessories.htm)
- 3/4 down the "GS500 Accessories" page under BRAKES heading; Kevlar lines are 20% more ($12)
Are all these brands essentially the same? Anybody have any experience/preference with a particular brand? Ive read Galfer lines are currently used by 5x AMA Superbike Champ Matt Mladin. Also, is it worth the $$ to get Kevlar lines and what is the advantage over steel-braided?
This will be my next mod. Seems to meet the criteria for a SuperMod:
1) inexpensive
2) easy to install
3) highly effective
Also, is all brake fluid brands the same?
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Lowering your bike:
GS500F - $50 shipped (http://www.venhorstrocks.com/SUZUKI_GS500F_PARTS.html) (BUYER BEWARE...SEE POST by Dolepineapple BELOW)
- choose EITHER the 1 1/2" drop or the 2" drop
- made from 3/16 stainless steel
Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, Kawasaki (choose from pull down menu) - $75 to $160 (http://www.protekk.com/index.php?cPath=41&sort=3a&filter_id=13)
- available in fully adjustable ( :dunno: ) and 2 or 3 hole settings
- made from CNC machined 7075 T-6 Billet Aluminum (Kaw & Suz) or 6061 T-6 Billet Aluminum (Yam & Hon)
- polished aluminum for that show look
GSX-Rs - $32.95 (http://www.gsxrzone.com/links.html)
- lower the rear approximately 2 - 3 inches by selecting different holes
- made from CNC machined 7075 T-6 (Strongest Aluminum available)
- choose from fine-grained aluminum or black anodized finish
SV650, GSX-R, ZX-R, R6 - $52.95 (http://store.58cycle.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=134)
- 3 settings available: stock, 1 1/4", and 2 1/2 lower
- made from CNC machined 6061 T-6 Billet Aluminum
- flawlessly polished
Although I'm 5"2" the GS500 is doable (I'm on my tippy toes). I found these links b/c I'm not sure if I may want to purchase these for my next bike: '05 SV650s (maybe '05 GSX-R 600?). I sat on the '05 SV650s the other day and I think I may not need them, but it sure would be nice for once to put my foot flat on the floor. Call me crazy :dunno:
I'm a little hesitant about the ones that are adjustable (2 or 3 holes in close proximity with each other). Doesn't this seem like it could possibly weaken or buckle from any kind of unforseen stress? What do yall think?
Also, am I REALLY gonna have to adjust the front fork geometry if I install one of these?
Alright, I spent alot of time on this post so show me some luv and post some feedback :thumb: 8) :) :cheers:
stainless lines dont expand with the pressure when applying the brakes
same thing with kevlar lines only they are lighter
howevere UV rays from the sun can weaken the kevlar over time
I have kevlar lines on my 6R but cant bleed all the air out
I dont know anything about lines or lowering links, but for safety reasons it seems to me you would want to be able to put your foot flat on the ground...just good common sense IMO. Go for the links for sure.
There has been a lot of discussion over stainless & kevlar lines. Kevlar lines do have a protective UV coating. Been running Goodridge kevlar lines on my TLR for 4 years without any problems. Goodridge is known to make their lines too long.
I am currently using Goodridge kevlar & Fastline stainless lines with excellent results.
Goodridge, Galfer, Speiglar, Russel and Fastline are all excellent brands.
Goodridge has a lifetime warranty on their products and excellent customer service. I know this first hand when their clutch line set for the TLR had a banjo bolt with the wrong thread pitch. They sent the correct one along with a bunch of stickers. (Yeah I am a sucker stickers)
There is not much difference in brands of brake fluid. Some may have a higher boiling point. Having a higher boiling point will not be an issue on your GS. I run Motul racing brake fluid in all of my bikes so I only have one brand to keep up with. Just make sure you do not mix the type of fluid. Stay with a DOT4. Castrol DOT4 works just fine, ran it for years.
Might want to install a speed bleeder. They are about $12 and makes bleeding all the air out easier. Air can get trapped at the master cylinder and is tough to get out without having one installed there.
If you lower the back of the bike without lowering the front, the steering response will be slowed down. You will need to lower the front just as much as the rear. Lowering the front more than the rear has an advantage since it will increase the turn-in ability.
There is not a problem with adjustable links. I know several people using them on heavier bikes and more powerful bikes without any issues.
BE CAREFUL! I bought a pair of lowering dogbones and the fairing protectors from the same guy at venhorstrocks.com. . .
the fairing protectors were great. . .specially since i'm a new rider and probably prone to dropping my bike more. . .
but it's those dogbones that are KILLER! i brought them to my friend who works at a bike shop. . .and as soon as i left the stuff with him, he called me back and told me that he WOULDN'T install it. . .
i was like, 'dude, why not'
then he pulled out a set of dogbones that a machinist at the same shop makes (custom for any bike). . .and the quality of it looked so much better. . .he put the two side by side and he was very much right. . .the dogbones made by venhorstrocks looked all uneven at the holes and not even straight. . .the ones by the machines looked and felt more solid and able to withstand the weight of a person
my friend told me for my safety, he wouldn't install it. . .because it would break after a certain amount of kilometres. . .
it's up to you. . .but i'm just giving you my opinion from experience. . .