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yep... the 92 has several WRONG nuts and bolts to it... and 2 of the bolts were SAE, and crammed into the holes where the header connects to the head. i was keeping my fingers crossed, one came out clean, the other broke while still in the head.
looks like i'll be tearing down the motor :roll:
thoughts???
chris<pixelmonkey>:D
bolt extractor? then tap out the threads?
Quote from: se7enty7bolt extractor? then tap out the threads?
exactly what I was thinking. Exhaust bolts can be a major pain though so it might be a good idea to enlist some help if you've never done bolt extraction
It's a major PITA. I had to do one about a month ago. I ran into problems when a chunk broke off of a HSS drill bit inside a hole that I drilled into the bolt. I ended up wrecking several drill bits before I figured out what had happened.
IMHO, you would be best off to buy a left hand drive extractor bit. You drill it into the bolt going counter-clockwise and then hopefully it extracts it. I would suggest plenty of cutting fluid and running it at a slower speed so your bit doesn't dull out immediately.
I also suggest using plenty of Liquid Wrench and possibly lifting up the front end by a hoist to where the bike is pointing skyward in order to let the Liquid Wrench to seep into the threads. If you just spray it onto the bolt it will stay where it lands. I used the forklift at my work and a tow strap and hung the bike like a deer for the slaughter. You might want to drain your fluids before attempting this. Your other option is to remove the engine to let the liquid wrench work.
You might be able to use an engine hoist or a block and tackle hanging from a reinforced beam in your garage...remember, it has to support 400 lbs. Also, at Harbor Freight they sell winches for really cheap. The reason why I am adamant about hanging the bike is because it is easier than removing the engine, and I have total faith in Liquid Wrench as long as you let it seep into the threads. Let it do all the hard work.
This may seem a little extreme but I just happen to have a forklift where I work on my bike...
Good luck :thumb:
Iv done it the redneck way and hung it from a big tree branch
Yea broken off bolts suck. I had a brake rotor bolt break off in my bandit wheel today, luckly my dad has a few decades of mechanic work underneath his belt. We ended up drilling it out and re tapping it to the right size. By the way, Dom how are your exhaust studs workin out?
They work awesome. The great part is that when I am putting my headers back on all I have to do is get the flange over the studs and throw a nut on to keep them in place. :cheers:
I think the most important thing, that I forgot to add, is to apply an anti-seize lubricant to the head bolts before you put them back in. It is a high temperature paste that keeps the aluminum from bonding to the steel bolts, which happens alot on aluminum heads. Use it for your header bolts as well as your spark plugs. It also helps spark plugs thread smoothly and helps prevent cross threading. It will smoke a bit and stink for the first few minutes while your head warms up but should go away after a while.
:thumb:
Quote from: DomI also suggest using plenty of Liquid Wrench and possibly lifting up the front end by a hoist to where the bike is pointing skyward in order to let the Liquid Wrench to seep into the threads. If you just spray it onto the bolt it will stay where it lands. [...] Your other option is to remove the engine to let the liquid wrench work.
If the bolt is broken off down in the hole, couldn't you just spray the hole FULL of Liquid Wrench and keep it there with some bubble gum or something? :dunno:
I'm not speaking from experience - just asking.
yeah lifting the bike up with a hoist seems a little extreme... to me... but iunno
well, the good news
the bolt broke about 1/2 an inch away from the head, so i can still get ahold of it.
giving it a break until next weekned.
chris<pixelmonkey>:D
so some kind of penatrating oil (wd-40 , break free, pb blaster) sprayed on there over a few days can really help. I had the same kind of problem on a 84 nissan stanza (steel bolt in alum head broken off) due to the heating and cooling of the bolt there isn't any cost effective way to prevent the corrosion between the two metals. (that's what causes the binding) in this kind of situation in the avaition industry we normally whould use a helicoil or twinsert in the initial design to minimize the metal to metal contact, but I am shure untill Suzuki sees motorcycles falling out of the sky from 36,000 feet, they won't see putting inserts into bikes as cost effective. ( theres a dumb avaition joke in there incase nobody noticed :roll: ) but anyway, with the stanza I ended up fighting with a few of the bolts untill my uncle got the breakfree out, 48 hours later they came out by hand! we ended up putting stainless bolts back into the car as we had to replace a couple of them. since you siad you were not going to work on it till next weekend, spray some stuff on there and let it soak in, that's the problem with most people that try to use a penatrating oil they don't let it soak in. you'll be suprised at how easy it'll come out.
Also, if you can help it, avoid the EZ-outs. One case out of two when the bolt has stuck so fast that it tore off, the EZ-out will break as well. Then you're stuck with a broken bolt with a bit of tempered steel inside.
If the beot is accessible your best bet usually is to weld something (e.g. nice hex bolt) on the stud that you can grip.
I'd also recommend that you replace those allen bolts with stud bolts and cap nuts. You avoid having to wrench a steel bolt ot of and into alumium each time you have to work on the headers. Why Suzuki has gone this path for the oil filter but not for the headers beats me.
hey Mark, it's a simple answer to a multiude of questions. Is the cost of the item concerned warranted in the manufacturing process? keeping in mind that a product such as a motorcycle is not designed to be matained outside of a manufacture's dealership. whare the proper factory designed tools are kept on hand for every maintance action that is associated with the product.
Quote from: davipuhey Mark, it's a simple answer to a multiude of questions. Is the cost of the item concerned warranted in the manufacturing process? keeping in mind that a product such as a motorcycle is not designed to be matained outside of a manufacture's dealership. whare the proper factory designed tools are kept on hand for every maintance action that is associated with the product.
Yeah, you're right. However, mantainability is a major image building factor. If your ride makes you swear when wrenching on it, you
will remember when you buy your next.
But then, Suzuki has never aimed for the top of the line.
Big vice grips work wonders, expecially if it's been lubed-up.
Lube, Lube, Lube!
The reason the head twisted off, was because the bolt is good and stuck. Grabbing it with vice grips and twisting may just break it again, and closer to the head. Instead, go the lube route, and spray in Liquid Wrench or PB-Blaster twice a day. You can also tap the bolt head with a hammer for 5 minutes, or heat up the area around it with a torch. If you're riding it (with one missing header bolt!), then when you are done riding is a perfect time to squirt it with Liquid Wrench.
Once it's had a while to soak, then you can try the vice-grips, or cut a slot across the face of the stud using a dreml, and turn it out using a screwdriver bit in a socket wrench. As last resort, weld something to it and turn that. But if you have to get to that point, then the Liquid Wrench has not really done its job; lube it some more.
I hadn't thought of pointing the bike upwards to help the Liquid Wrench. Maybe pointing it uphill would help a bit. :dunno:
so all you gotta do is flip her over and give her belly a good scratching. like a puppy. :P :)
The only thing I can add is if you do get the bike pointed straight up, consider using brake fluid insted of penetrating oil. I will almost never argue agains PB Blaster(it has saved me more money than I can count), but if you don't care about loosing paint(the engine is aluminum for crying out loud), it is had to beat brake fluid for unseizing parts.
:thumb:
I always use Aerokroil: https://secure.cnchost.com/kanolabs.com/kanopnlu.htm
It swear by it. It has loosened every nut that I was able to let it seep into. Gravity is almost necessary with this stuff, in my experience. So if you're trying to loosen a horizontal bolt or screw, unless you can make it stand vertically, your screwed. :lol:
My point is, it works great and havn't had any problems with paint.
They also have a No Questions Asked money back guarantee, and you don't even have to send the can back. That means your first can is free...if you're a cheap bastard. :lol:
I've used an impact wrench and hammer to unstick most stubborn bolts. That and wd-40 should be the best shot to get the exhaust bolts off before they break.
All these recommendations for WD40 but its really not a very good penetrating oil. I personally use PB Penetrating oil but the others listed above should work well too