Maybe there's another fix, but I'm wondering if there's something I can spray into my turn cancel button to get it to work more freely. I don't want to use something that will mess it up of course. I thought I'd ask before I start spraying WD40 (probably OK, but effective for long?) or graphite or something even heavier.
Its operation requires me (1) to be sure the button is centered as it sticks to the side I was signalling and is picky about its centering when I need to (2) push pretty danged hard for a little plastic piece. I don't know how much of this it will take.
Thanks,
Mike D.
PS: If an OEM or aftermarket replacement will work VERY well out of the box, I don't mind going there.
the least expensive / easy way around this is...
remove the 2 phillips head screws from the switch on the bars. *you will see the screws when looking from under the hi/low beam // turn signal switch housing.
be careful here and pay attention on how the choke cable is connected / routed so it doesnt come back to haunt you!
clean each part and use some wd/40 or white lithium grease to lube the moving parts. if you use wd 40, wait for it to dry before reassembley.
once the lube is added, do your best to move the parts just like they would be if you were riding.
*** you might have to remove the bar weight and grip to do this ***
hope it helps!
chris<pixelmonkey>:D
Well. I had a similar problem.. mine would cancel ok, but then it wouldn't pop back out so that I could use the turn signal again... I'd have to try and pry it out with my fingers while riding, which is pretty tricky with gloves on...
So I took it apart, sprayed it w/ WD40 and that worked for about 2 weeks. Then it started doing it again. Took it apart again and this time actually paid attention to what what causing the difficulty. If you look into the mechanism that moves around when you move the switch, there is a single phillips head screw that I backed off about half a turn. Sprayed it w/ WD40 again and that was about a month and a half ago. I suppose there is some risk of the screw backing itself out all the way now since it isn't tight, but it hasn't so far, and it isn't getting any looser or more wobbly, so I think I'm ok...
Anyway, that's my experience with the turn signal switch being troublesome. Good luck.
trey
*edit* oh yeah, you shouldn't have to remove the grip or bar end.. just remove the two screws holding the assembly together all the way and the switch gear will disconnect into two parts.. Just pry them apart and you can see what I'm talking about.
Trey and Chris,
Thanks so much for the first-hand advice. The sun's out, so today might actually be a good day to try to fix it AND ride it. I'll report back how it all goes. We're not that far apart. Maybe you'll see me! (OK, that's a stretch.)
Best regards,
Mike Dougherty
Weatherford, OK
looks like peidmont / kingfisher would be around the 1/2 way point...
i know of a great little restraunt in akarche!
keep in touch! if the weather is nice this coming weekend i might be up for it!
chris<pixelmonkey>:D
Stillwater, Oklahaoma
Hey that would be cool. We could trade bikes and see if there's any difference. I might be able to get some non-GS riders and we could really have some fun. I'll just have to convince the wife unit.
Later,
Mike D.
Quote from: geekonabikeHey that would be cool. We could trade bikes and see if there's any difference. I might be able to get some non-GS riders and we could really have some fun. I'll just have to convince the wife unit.
Later,
Mike D.
a friend with a kawi lives in peidmont... he might be up for a ride... *given he isnt working*
i'll check around and see if anyone else from stillwater wants to get away before finals begin.
chris<pixelmonkey>:D
Or maybe after finals if you're still up for it. Our finals begin Thursday and run until the next Wednesday. The following Thursday is freedom day for me. Are you going to be gone right after your finals?
BTW I wimped out a little. I did get it apart enough to see the metal Y (more like U with a handle) attached to the signal, and gave it a squirt of some really nasty contact cleaner followed by some Tri-Flo (I think), which might not be the best for contacts but is a better lube than WD40 I think. Maybe a bad idea, but it (and a slight loosening of that one screw) works well enough now that I don't have to watch it so much to be sure I have it just right before I cancel a signal (I just push and look for the flashing idiot light out of the lower corners of my eyes to see if it's still blinking).
I noticed the extra spray just came out some holes underneat that switch assembly. I wonder if a couple squirts of, say, WD40 into those holes periodically would also keep this problem in check.
FWIW I also did my first kerosene chain cleaning (made a BIG MESS!!), and in fact my first bike wash (using HondaBrite left over from my CB250 days, Orange Blast, two buckets of car wash, and water and a garden hose), and then a chain lube from some clear spray I got at a motorcycle shop ("Safe for O-Rings"). Then I did a grocery store run (took the scenic route) and the bike looked really good in the parking lot lights at night. Someday I'll query the list or database on how hard it is to take off the chain, and then maybe I'll really soak it in kerosene, and maybe even soak it in lube though I think the latter is overkill. But a clean looking chain (and sprockets) would do a lot for the bike's image I'd think.
This is me avoiding grading exams. Back to the grindstone.
Thanks for the help. I'll be more ambitious if I have to take the button apart a second time.
--Mike D.
Oh yea that stoopid switch assy gets crudded up every 6-7 years ... and that mofo is the most complicated POS in this bike ... open it take it apart and clean the living daylights out of it... yea lots of sand and dust and crap will come out ... then 6-7 years later boom you have to do it again ... makes you want to buy a Harley and never ride it and keep it in the garage and polish it ... just that switch cleaning ... Whihc is why I recomend synthetic blinker fluid and changing it every 30,000,000 blinks ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Guys, we really need to get Srinath a job. He has too much time on his hands.
I mean.....uhm.....
HEY SRINATH,
Good to hear back from you buddy!
Hey I put the stock bars on the bike you sent me, oh, four months ago or so. Remember? Better than the (albeit very shiney) replacements that were on there but I might go find something else, so that my wrists will feel even more "neutral." In fact a Victory Eight Ball seemed to work for me, but somehow I doubt those bars will work the same on the GS.
BTW, is Honda blinker synth as good as the 'zuki stuff? Maybe Mobile-1 has something.
I guess I need to give more attention to my own day job. Sigh.
Later,
Mike D.
Wrists ... natural ... I belive you said the code for ... Srinath 2 weld bars ... nothing else feels right on a 90-00 GS ... I have tried it all ... Buy one and get a 4 weld free ... muhaahaahaahaahaa ....
Cool.
Srinath.
Remind me what is the link where you were describing and selling the bars? I might be game for a set. --Mike D.
OK I have to search for it myself...
2 mins...
Cool.
Srinath.
OK this seems to be the best link I found... The 4 welds are SV ones, and I have the last 3 which I believe I wont be selling any more of, They do fit a GS, and the 2 weld ones are the GS ones. Try them on and see ... The 2 weld bar is going to need some light sanding at the spot where switches go on etc - its ~ a hundredths too big ... The 4 weld is probably going to need duct tape at the spot where it has switches ... its ~ 100th's too small ... The powder coating is unpredictable in thickness, I started with 7/8th and got too thick, I tried a coouple 100's under and got too thin ... :x
http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11953
Cool.
Srinath.
Don't mean to threadjack (tho looks like it's been done already) but:
1) Srinath, I'm having second thoughts about your bars. Not that I don't want them, I'm just not sure which ones. I too want a comfortable position; would the 2-welds or the clip-ons be better for that? (01+)
2) After I gave my bike to a shop for carb cleaning, when it came back the choke lever was sticky, it didn't want to move smoothly. It's not as big a problem as turn signals, since choke use is rarer and I've been doing chokeless warmups lately, but it's still annoying. (And distressing, since it only happened after the carb maintenance -- did they mess up my bike? Grr, I'll do it myself next time...)
OK choke lever, many places it can bind, of course if they sprayed carb cleaner in the choke assy, you might want to spray some sliicone in there now, cos they could have well washed off the lubricant that was in there. Of course the lever and the cable are also worth looking at ... kinks in cable = binding too.
The bars ... OK 01+ I have not got a set that will work. 04+ pretty much the same as 01+ .... Now yes I said natural etc etc for the bars to him, but hey I know him from before ... and the savage mailing list etc ... and he was even then tap dancing around what bars to get ... The 90-00 bars I have are very evolved and near perfect. The clip on's will also let you with the same correct angles etc for the wrists to be comfy in ... with the limitation being the bike itself... or to put it in other words ... the bike is going to pretty much dictate where the bars can be and at what angle ... I make a set for the 04+ or 01+ and chances are the clip on's will be identical to that in the end position of your hands ... you follow ... I just think ... on a 01+ there is a lot fewer positions the bars can be in, and the 2 weld bars if I make them, will end up being just like the clip on's for final hand position. So I think clip'ons might be the best for an 04. Nothing to gain really with a 2 weld type. Also I like the clip on's for their failure limitation ... though the 2 weld ones are so strong they most likely will survive a crash ... OK within reason.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: miloDon't mean to threadjack (tho looks like it's been done already) but:
.
.
.
2) After I gave my bike to a shop for carb cleaning, when it came back the choke lever was sticky, it didn't want to move smoothly. It's not as big a problem as turn signals, since choke use is rarer and I've been doing chokeless warmups lately, but it's still annoying. (And distressing, since it only happened after the carb maintenance -- did they mess up my bike? Grr, I'll do it myself next time...)
FWIW when I put my turn signal etc. assembly back together my choke stopped moving so well, I think similarly to your situation. I think I overtightened something, or put it back together wrong. It still works but is a pain. When I'm next motivated I'll try to do something about it. One screw under the controls holds a flat metal doo-hicky which holds in a spring and a little white plastic piece 'round abouts (maybe left of) the choke lever (from memory here). I probably put it together wrong. Maybe your guys did too. Uncool.
--Mike D.
Yeah, uncool indeed. No more getting ripped off by shops, one way or another. I'll take a look at the choke this winter after exams are over -- along with my new shock, new pegs, new mirrors, new bars (cool S. I'll go with clip-ons), new fairings and maybe a valve adjustment -- man, I'm gonna have a whole new bike come March...
Quote from: geekonabikeOr maybe after finals if you're still up for it. Our finals begin Thursday and run until the next Wednesday. The following Thursday is freedom day for me. Are you going to be gone right after your finals?
all test for my classes will be complete before this week is over. 8)
i'll know more as the week winds down.
out to do a 5:30
chris<pixelmonkey>:D
Quote from: miloYeah, uncool indeed. No more getting ripped off by shops, one way or another. I'll take a look at the choke this winter after exams are over -- along with my new shock, new pegs, new mirrors, new bars (cool S. I'll go with clip-ons), new fairings and maybe a valve adjustment -- man, I'm gonna have a whole new bike come March...
It is nice to take care of so many things at once (or in close temporal proximity). Like you said, feels like having a new bike.
My point on the choke cable was that it probably was not a big costly mistake they made, if any. It's just tricky to put it back together, and if they don't bother to work that cable before and after they might not realize they screwed it up. I need to redo mine, or experiment with that spring and plastic piece to get it right. I'm not above squirting some graphite lube in there to free things up. Maybe send some cable lube down there too.
Later,
Mike D.
Just thought I'd chime in on the 2 weld bars.. they really are great. I read this post last night and then today when I was out riding I made a concious effort to pay attention to how my hands and wrists and everything were aligned. The 2 weld bars are great.
Basically stick your arms straight out and make fists. Rotate them outward not even 1/4 turn and bend your elbows a bit and there you go. Don't have to chicken your wrists back or anything, everything is in a straight line from your elbows on. It really does feel natural.
Anyway. That's obviously not the topic here, but since we were talking about the 2 welds feeling natural.. thought I'd give my pennies worth... definitely worth the 4000 I spent on them.
trey
Hey, I'm glad you chimed in. I may give them a try. So out of curiosity, can you recall how they compare to the stock bars? Srinath feel free to chime in again.
I see a research trip to Austin on the horizon! Well, there is the wife unit to convince. Probably easier to just buy the bars.
This is a fun and interesting thread. FWIW my signal button does work better.
Next on the list for me might be a new headlight bulb. Lots of stuff already in the archives. Sylvania Silverstar H4 is what everyone likes, IIRC. I think someone stuck something in there which doesn't belong. Very wide radius, less in front than I like, and high beams are a joke, pointing very little straight forward.
Got to go. Thanks for all the chimes, and feel free to add more!
--Mike D.
Yea severe research went into the 2 weld ones... :lol:
Mostly consisted of me sitting on the bike with the bars on saying, ok turn this that way and this this way and bring it here and take that there and it be perfect, then a week later, oh we did too much of this and not enough of that ... and so on till my welder just about wanted to kill himself...
Cool.
Srinath.
That's the way to do ergonomics. BTW, so how long are your arms, Srinath? (My sleeve length is 36".) Are you tall? (I'm 6'2".) Do you sit upright when you ride with the bars? Sorry I know you probably answered all this before, but some days I feel like a research archivist, and some (most) days I'm too lazy. Well, and what someone thought in February '04 might not be what they're thinking evolved into by December '04. At least that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.
--Mike D.
I have no clue what they feel like compared to stock. When I bought the bike the stock bars were bent pretty bad.. enter the 2 weld bars. I don't know where you are, but if you're ever in Austin, defintely let me know and we can meet up.
fwiw- I'm not that tall (5'10") and I sit a little crouched over. I'm not hugging the tank by any means, but I wouldn't call it sitting upright. Now.. if I had a little longer arms that might be more true...
If I get bored of studying today and you think it'd help, I can go take some pics of me on the bike to give you an idea.. I know there aren't that many pics of Srinath's bars.. I tried to find some when I was looking.
trey
Quote from: geekonabikeThat's the way to do ergonomics. BTW, so how long are your arms, Srinath? (My sleeve length is 36".) Are you tall? (I'm 6'2".) Do you sit upright when you ride with the bars? Sorry I know you probably answered all this before, but some days I feel like a research archivist, and some (most) days I'm too lazy. Well, and what someone thought in February '04 might not be what they're thinking evolved into by December '04. At least that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.
--Mike D.
I am 5 ft 10 and 33 sleeve ... rotator to the wrist right ... My welder is closer to 6ft 1, and probably closer to 36 sleeve ... his helper also pretty much 1 inch taller and prolly similar extra length sleeve ... On a GS ... there is no other bar ... all 3 found it the best fit, the thing though I perfered it higher, they wanted it turned a bit down. ... rotate it and angle and reach change a bit. making it a better fit than anyhting else. davipu managed to get it on a 01 by turning it into some ungodly angle.... and rode across the country twice in 3 weeks that way ... and then he did it again 2 months later ... Did you man ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: seshadri_srinathdavipu managed to get it on a 01 by turning it into some ungodly angle.... and rode across the country twice in 3 weeks that way ... and then he did it again 2 months later ... Did you man ...
For pictures of that wild angle, see
http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/SrinathBars/
Thanks for the pics Kerry. It is interesting to see how very different the bars look from the different camera angles. One has them looking like they lie in a plane perpendicular to the vertical plane containing the "length" of the bike. That's the last picture. The first picture has them looking more V-like, and like you'd be leaning relatively forward compared to stock bars. I guess one has to put them on loosely and see how they can be adjusted. I do get the impression they would sit you forward an inch or two. I don't know how much that matters, except that the bike magazines get all excited by much smaller modifications on bikes from model year to model year.
--Mike D.
Ok.. here's the result of my study break. Got done with one of my books so I thought I'd put on my "Kerry Hat" and go takes some pics... (j/k!)
Beautiful pics of me in my full riding gear :? ...
(https://webspace.utexas.edu/treybrad/www/gstwin/srinath_two_weld_bars/riding_posistion_sm.jpg)
^^ Riding posistion.. in retrospect I think I'm sitting a little further back that usual so I may seem a bit more hunched over...
(https://webspace.utexas.edu/treybrad/www/gstwin/srinath_two_weld_bars/arm_pos_sm.jpg)
^^ Gives you an idea of how straight your wrists and arms stay... No weird angles are bends.
(https://webspace.utexas.edu/treybrad/www/gstwin/srinath_two_weld_bars/horiz_sm.jpg)
^^ Just a view to show how much I have them turned down.. which is more than I thought. I didn't remember putting the down really, but I just played with them until they felt "right" and that's where they ended up I guess.
Anyway. Gives you a really general idea of how it should all feel with you on it w/o being able to go try them out. Keep in mind my enormously muscular frame is only 5'10", but meh, it's better than nothing. My truck is only so useful as a tripod..
There are more, full-size pics HERE (https://webspace.utexas.edu/treybrad/www/gstwin/srinath_two_weld_bars).
And yes. Those are polar bears on my boxers. And no. I haven't been out in public today :o
trey
Trey,
Thanks so much for posting those pics. Blacked out engine? Cool. And it looks like good riding weather, which I suppose it always is when you have to take finals.
In fact what I'm trying to avoid by getting on here so much is WRITING tests. And grading some other tests. Finals week is when I really earn my paycheck.
I'm going to have to wait just a little while on the bars just because I need to replenish the bike budget. This month it's (re-)registration in fact. But I want to be armed with enough information that I know what to expect if/when I "order" some, assuming they are still available. These stock ones are the second set I had on there, since I didn't like the replacement bars someone else put on there. I don't really want to have a collection before getting what I keep on there forever. Then again, Srinath needs to eat.
Thanks again,
Mike D.
It's funny that you like the blacked out engine. That's how they came pre-98 (?). I've toyed w/ the idea of painting the lower half silver to match the newer bikes.. just looks better to me. Oh well. There's plenty to do on my list ahead of that...
and yes. It was a really nice day. thanks for rubbing it in. :guns:
trey
Maybe we should just trade bikes. Heh heh.
FWIW I'm in Weatherford, OK, about 70 miles west of OKC on I-40. Still a good haul from Austin and vice versa. Sigh. Are you from around Austin?
--Mike D.
Well. I grew up around the DFW area but came down to Austin to go to UT 2.5 years ago. With work and school down here I don't get up that way much.
Maybe we could find a good ride somewhere in the middle? The guys over at http://twtex.com seem like they have quite a few rides out of DFW, maybe we could both catch one.
Or.. we could just have a big super duper awesome GSTwin get together.. I know there's quite a few of us from TX and OK. ugh... I need to find out why my gas mileage sucks before trekking across the state.
trey
Lousy gas mileage? There's a thread and a half. Mine was pretty down too. Never did figure out exactly why but when the mech rejetted (after I put STOCK exhaust on it I traded the D&H it came with for), fixed the floats, replaced jet needles, needle jets (at that point I got confused), and whatever came in the carb rebuild kits (I forget the link), and did some more fiddling, it went from mid-upper 30's(!) to upper 40's-lower 50's. So many things can mess it up. I'm sure Srinath woudn't mind rebuilding your carbs. (Somehow all threads lead to Srinath.)
We'll see about get-togethers. I don't have the flexibility I used to, physically as well as regarding schedules, since there's a wife unit and two young kid units involved. Some day I'll buy a trailer, and then on one of our Dallas trips maybe I can have a junket your way. The OK fellows I might have an easier time riding with, particularly for a morning (a.k.a. COLD) ride that could get me back home in the early afternoon.
We'll keep these things in mind!
Thanks,
Mike D.
OMG you're in Weatherford?! Man, I stopped in Weatherford while driving cross-country last year. Had breakfast at Jerry's diner. I ate a dinner-plate-sized cinnamon roll that's gotta be the best thing I ever tasted. Everyone was incredibly friendly -- it was one of the (many) high points of that trip. I still tell people about Jerry's in Weatherford, even though most people up here think I'm crazy.
Re my sticky choke lever: yeah, I know, it's not a big deal. I've been riding the bike and it's fine, so I'm not upset or anything. It's just that they charged me a buttload of money for the carb cleaning, and if I'm gonna find mysterious problems after maintenance tasks, I might as well cause them myself, for free. :thumb:
Re riding weather during finals: I want to know how it gets into the high 50s in NY in December, while I have finals. It's a crime against nature. Or rather, a crime against me, by nature. :(
Gas mileage ... biggest factor ... floats too high ... they will spit gas into the air filter area where it will get sucked back in as atomised fuel ... making for a softish power band... especially under acceleration, making you accelerate longer... and when you settle into cruise mode... it will automagically be OK ... You'd not even notice it ... and you do some accelerating and slowing and accelerating and your gas mileage takes a nose dive ... The bars ... yea I believe I have 7 left, and I am selling clip on's now, I dont want to leave the 01+ bikes to fend for themselves... the whole excercise started out with trying to make stuff for the GS ... I now discover, Mine dont fit 01+ for bars, exhausts, and dont fit 04 for case guards ... equality man, equality...
Cool.
Srinath.
Well.. I wasn't going to drag this even MORE off topic.. but since Mike and Srinath acknowledged my mileage problem..
I'm consistantly getting ~40mpg give or take a couple. I ride pretty hard.. If I'm accelerating, about half the time it's almost full throttle, and i'll wind it up to 9-10k.
I have a 15t front sprocket, and my highway speed is around 70-75 so I'm sure that doesn't help. Puts my RPMs around 7-7.5k
Does that sound reasonable? The bike has almost 28k miles on it.. so it's well "broken in" we'll say. Slip on pipe, stock air box..
I'm just a little disappointed. I'm a small guy (~135lbs), if anything I figured I'd get better gas mileage than most... I've searched this to death and other lightweights like Roadstergal were getting close to 70mpg.. That sure would be nice.
Bike seems to run great, but.. it does smell like gas a little. No apparent gas leaks, but when I get off of work and walk out to my bike I always am greeted by the familiar smell of gas... I've always been around older bikes, and they've always smelled of gas.. should it not at all? Is that a sign my floats may be a bit high and blowing some gas in the air box?
I'll double check my floats again before I tear down the carbs to rejet for my lunchbox filter this weekend. How close should it be to the gasket? If it's off a mm or two is it going to hurt?
If I remember right, mine looks about like Kerry's in this pic (http://www.bbburma.net/FujiFotos/FloatHeight/DSCF2439.jpg). Seems like it's a bit over where the two parts meet, is that considered "high"?
Eh. Like I said. Bike runs well, plugs look good, starts right up on the 1st try, doesn't burn oil hardly at all despite the punishment I put it through.. just the mileage is a little low. If I'm steady in 1st at about 6k and crack the throttle the front end will pop up a little, so I feel like I've got a pretty healthy throttle response and power.
I really don't even mind the poor mileage as much as the nuisance of having to fill up every 115-120mi when my RES needs to be switched on. I definitely fill it up using the "Maximum" technique.. Sometimes I'll sit at the pump for an awfully long time just to get 3gal of gas b/c I'm so intent on getting every last drop I can in there... :lol:
I'm going on a cruise with some people on Sunday, I'm sure it'll be a pretty subdued pace. I'll try to take it really easy and see what my numbers come out to be. Maybe I just have too heavy of a foot (wrist :roll: ?).
Sorry to stray even more off topic.. but you asked for it :thumb:
trey
Yea you might be spilling into filter ... or you might have a leak from the tank ... and I am heavier ... by 100 lbs, and I have traffic cos I only commute and other wise I fairly rev it up ... and I have 46K... and still make 42-45 ... Soon I'll use more oil than gas... and of course K&N pods and pipe ...
Cool.
Srinath.
The lunchbox is only going to hurt me right? Since I'm jumping up another couple jet sizes it'll (gas mileage) only go down from there I assume... I'll give everything a good look-see when I take it apart for the jets on Sunday.
trey
Well lunch box = 150's ... did I do your carbs ... trying to remember ... Now if you are popping wheelies you might well get gas out into the air box, but that's not like regular high floats ... Yea a 10% loss with Lunch box and pipe os possible over stock ...
Cool.
Srinath.
You did my carbs a while back for just the slip on and stock air box. I'm rejetting this weekend to 150's and maybe another washer (how can I tell if I need it? It'll be lean if I need another one right?) for the lunchbox.
And.. I just used the wheelies as a reference more than anything. I just noticed that the wheel wanted to come up a couple times after I put on the smaller front sprocket and was "testing" it out... :nono: That certainly doesn't happen on a regular basis, definitely not every tank.
trey
OK I might have set the floats high ... they do actually wear and go higher too ... not sure how much that can happen in such short time ...
Check and see where it is ... before adjusting ... Now you dropped 1 tooth or how may in front, and how many in the back... I have mine geared a shade taller ... and I forgot ... a 80 series tire in the back...
1 washer under needle is fine for pods or lunch box ...
Cool.
Srinath.
treybrad, forgive me for not already knowing / remembering this, but when was your last valve clearance check? I ask because richard's MPG really suffered with a pair of tight exhaust valves. When we set that right ... voila!
On the other hand, richard's power suffered with the tight valves too; he had trouble going up hills, or keeping up with freeway traffic. Your 15-tooth sprocket may mask a little bit of power loss, but not a large amount I wouldn't think.
Anyway, I don't want to make too much of the valve thing (it's getting to be like having a hammer and looking for a nail to hit) but I thought I'd ask.
One tooth down up front, stock rear and a brand new chain. Stock size, 130/70, new rear tire.
I'll check the floats before I take the carbs off so I can adjust them at the same time, I'm assuming the manual tells me how to do that...
Ideally you want the floats to be set exactly where the two metal parts (gasket) come together on the bowls right? Not where the top piece flattens out like in Kerry's pic..?
trey
Kerry- yes, my clearances are on the tight side. I haven't found a feeler that is small enough for 3 of the valves, but the shims spin freely in their buckets. So those are >0mm and <.038mm. My throttle side intake valve is on the loose end of the spectrum, right at .08mm. I'm actually glad you reminded me of that. I can renew my hunt for a smaller feeler guage over the break...
trey
Quote from: treybradI'll check the floats before I take the carbs off so I can adjust them at the same time, I'm assuming the manual tells me how to do that...
If you have the Clymer you may appreciate this
second resource (from the Haynes manual). See Step 7 and Diagram 9.7.
Quote from: treybradKerry- yes, my clearances are on the tight side. I haven't found a feeler that is small enough for 3 of the valves, but the shims spin freely in their buckets.
Oh, OK. Well, one of
richard's exhaust valves was off by
4 shim sizes, and the other by 2 or so.
I'd say look elsewhere for now. :dunno:
Quote from: miloOMG you're in Weatherford?! Man, I stopped in Weatherford while driving cross-country last year. Had breakfast at Jerry's diner. I ate a dinner-plate-sized cinnamon roll that's gotta be the best thing I ever tasted. Everyone was incredibly friendly -- it was one of the (many) high points of that trip. I still tell people about Jerry's in Weatherford, even though most people up here think I'm crazy.
I moved out here in January '00. During my interview the previous November ('99), a fellow gave me a tour of the town, and danged if pretty much everyone waved to him as we drove around in his pickup. I figured everyone knew him, which was almost true but not necessary to get a wave. When I moved here, everyone waved to me too when they drove by. At first I thought they assumed my car belonged to someone they knew, but no, it's what people do here. Somehow if one of you is in a pickup truck it's really expected you wave. Ditto police cars (well, if you're in the BACK of the squad car I don't know the protocol). Somehow my Grand Marquis usually gets a wave, though my wife's little Nissan Sentra doesn't seem to require it, nor (for you Xenophobe accusers) does our Dodge minivan. You feel like a piece of crud if you forget to wave to someone and they wave to you.
This is the certainly friendliest town I've ever been in. It is true that you don't say anything you don't want repeated, but I think that's true about anywhere. And since it's a small enough town (10,000, plus 5000 students) you really can know, well, not everyone, but if I go to the grocery store I'll run into two or three people I know easily.
I haven't been to Jerry's for a while. It does seem popular with the bikers that stop here. I have nothing against the place, and I think it might be the only 24-hour place in town. With young kids we just don't do so many sit-down (and wait, however briefly) kinds of places. But thanks for the reminder...I'll take my parents there next time they're in town, and they'll want to go there everytime after that I reckon. (Did I really say "reckon"?)
If you're ever coming back this way let me know!
--Mike D.