hey all... so i was installing srinath bars following the instructions on pantablo's site...everything went well until i started my bike up...the rpms are going crazy! i tried riding it and a touch on the throttle would sent the rpms up high...its acting as if i left the choke on after the bike has warmed up...what did i do? how can i fix this?
- alex
OK somehting is binding ... you sand the area where the choke and throttle go ... make sure its not binding ... BTW who sold you those ... Mercdude ??? ... he should have told you to sand the things to fit ti nice and loose ... Cos I sure as hell told him...
Cool.
Srinath.
Yeah, they'll do that if they are too tight. Mine did too. Make sure that if you sand down to bare metal you paint or something so they won't rust on you.
Check to see that the choke cable is relleasing properly. As you move the choke lever, that little gold looking thing with the spring should move aswell:
(http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_0130_IdleScrew_ChokeCable.jpg)
and
(http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_0130_ChokeCableCloseUp.jpg)
The pictures are provided by Kerry (as always) :)
If there is not enough motion in that little thing, then it is posible that The choke itself is catching on the bar, but if it moves frely, then it is also posible that when you reasembled the Left switch, something went out of place and now the choke cable is tighter.
Finaly, after you get the choke lever to moove freely, if you had to strip/grind away the paint beneath it, you should at least oil it to prevent corrosion (like Dom Said).
Enjoy the new bars...
do the rpm go up and down when you turn the steering left and right?
Quote from: seshadri_srinathOK somehting is binding ... you sand the area where the choke and throttle go ... make sure its not binding ... BTW who sold you those ... Mercdude ??? ... he should have told you to sand the things to fit ti nice and loose ... Cos I sure as hell told him...
Cool.
Srinath.
hey srinath yeah i bought 'em off mercdude...im too poor of a college student to spring for the bars straight from you :oops: ...probably should have...but could you give me more details about what i should be sanding and what is binding?
dsmirnov i checked the choke already...its fine...and GRU the rpm's arent going up when i turn the handlebars right or left...whats happening is that it idles slighty higher than normal (around 1700 rather than 1100) and then when i put it into first gear the rpms shoot up to 3000-4000 rpms...mmmyep
thanks guys
- alex
Well I have never delt with RPMs changing because of shifting into 1st... I'm stomped on that one, but Believe it or not the RPMs changing because you move the handlebars left and right is actualy normal. If I think of something I'll post up, but for now, I don't have a clue. :dunno: :dunno:
Cheers,
-DS
And you already checked your idle screw? Is there enough freeplay in the throttle cable? Choke cable freeplay?
idle screw? where? and freeplay? how much?
but yeah...the revs just arent coming down...could it have something to do with the fact that i pushed all the cables back when i installed the bars? pablo mentions on his site that he had to do this but he had no ill effects...
- alex
(http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_0130_IdleScrew_ChokeCable.jpg)
It's the long brass shaft with the knob hanging down between the carbs.
But, since you only changed the handlebars, you would not have messed with the idle so don't actually mess with it yet.
First, set your freeplay.
Choke cable - Turn the handlebars all the way left to see how loose it is down by the carburetor. It should not exert any tension on the choke arm in this picture:
(http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_0130_ChokeCableCloseUp.jpg)
If it does, loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster in (at the handlebar) until it no longer is holding the choke open.
Throttle freeplay - turn the handlebars all the way right and you should be able to wiggle/rotate the throttle grip by at least a millimeter. If not, loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster in (towards the grip) until you can.
so...i MAY have just made it worse...
so i started it up, and man does it warm up fast...i was off the choke in under 30 sec, which is weird cuz prior to this damn handlebar changing episode my bike had always been very slow to warm up...but anyway...i believe that there is enough freeplay, i just checked...when i turn my handlebar to the left the rpms stay the same...when i turn it to the right, however, it kinda goes nuts...so yeah turniing the handlebar off to the right does makethe rpms increase...
now the bad news...as i am parking my bike again so i can come back into my aptmt and type this, i decide to try it one more time just to see exactly what happens when i turn the handlebars...my finger slips off the starter button so i just barely push it, and the bike obviously doesnt start. but no only does it not start, when i turn the key in the ignition the lights dont come on no more, and i cant start it anymore...i'm just hoping the battery needs to recharge and it'll be able to start again tomorrow...
but as for now, what does it mean when the rpms increase when turning the handlebars to the right?
- alex
It means thet either the throttle or choke cables are too tight.
You blew a fuse...
You have a tight I would almost bet its a throttle cable ... but worth checking both cables...
Cool.
Srinath.
ok...so blown fuse...can i fix that myself? where would it be?
aaand if the cables are too tight...how do i check / fix that? in simple layman terms, please...
thanks all i appreciate the help...i guess i'm learning while i'm screwing this up yeah?
- alex
ps the blown fuse isnt serious, right?
Quote from: alexXxok...so blown fuse...can i fix that myself? where would it be?
check the main page for wiring location... everything is under the seat
Quote from: alexXx
aaand if the cables are too tight...how do i check / fix that? in simple layman terms, please...
easy fix... just remove all the controls from the bars... check over everyhing *maybe add some lube* then re-install the parts
Quote from: alexXx
thanks all i appreciate the help...i guess i'm learning while i'm screwing this up yeah?
best way to do it!
Quote from: alexXx
ps the blown fuse isnt serious, right?
no... requires less then $1 to fix, and takes under 2 minutes
chris<pixelmonkey>:D
On an 89 the main fuse is right behind the Battery ... :mrgreen:
On the later years its under the left side cover ... :x
Cool.
Srinath.
easy fix... just remove all the controls from the bars... check over everyhing *maybe add some lube* then re-install the parts
so...since this whole thing is a fun fun learning process for me...what does it mean that the cables were too tight? i screwed 'em in too tight? i accidentally pinched the wires or...? i'm a little confused on the reasoning behind why this happened...and which parts am i adding lube to? any specific lube to buy? wow that could be taken wayy outta context...aaaanyway...
onto the fuse...where could i buy a replacement / what am i looking to buy? and how could i tell which one burnt out?
thanks all
- alex
Your first step should be to pick up a repair manual if you haven't already. You can get them through the site or, if you have to really pinch, sometimes they pop up used on eBay for cheap.
You probably already have a spare fuse stored next to the starter relay. You can check to see if the fuse is blown by looking at the thin U-shaped wire that connects the two seperate sides of the fuse. If the U is broken, the fuse is blown. You can find replacement fuses at any motorcycle parts store or dealer. If not, then its not the fuse. (If not the fuse, could be battery or bad contacts between starter relay and battery, or maybe side stand safety switch not fully retracting)
A manual will help you locate these things and troubleshoot.
Adam
Anytime you move or remove your controls you run the risk of kinking a cable. The result is that the cable pulls a little more on either the throttle or choke, both of which will increase your rpms. I don't know why it happens, it just does.
Start your bike with all the controls screwed in loosly so you can still rotate them around the handlebar and try to relieve the stress on the cables by either rotating the control forward or back, or try the idle adjust. You might have to give a little slack on the nut where the throttle cable attaches to the carb... Turn the handlebars to the farthest left and right. Sit on the bike and position your controls where they feel comfortable and then lock them down....You just have to exhaust all the possibilities, but you will probably find the one that is binding up on you.
Apply some oil, not wd40, to the handlebar under the throttle grip so it rolls nice and smooth.
As a follow-up to Adam R's explanation about the fuse(s)....
The bike came stock with 2 fuses, 1 of which was a spare. Here are some photos and a diagram from the Haynes manual (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1859609856/ref=pd_sim_b_3/103-5310047-2674219?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance) showing how to check for a blown fuse:
(http://www.bbburma.net/Scans/Haynes_Fuse.jpg)
If you have a later-than-'89 model, check out this post (http://gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=76808#76808) for a better picture of the starter relay location. And some bonus tests for the starter relay if it ever comes to that!
ah, of course...i feel like a dummy asking what a fuse was...its in my manual...BUT...i will check tomorrow but if the spare is already gone where could i buy another? a motorcycle shop?
and to test to see if any cables are pinched i should try running the bike and all before i tighten everything down, yeah?
- alex
Quote from: alexXxif the spare is already gone where could i buy another? a motorcycle shop?
Any auto parts store will have them; they're standard items. In fact, the "auto aisle" in my
grocery store has them. Look for yellow pill boxes or blister packs with the word BUSS on them. Rather than buy an assortment pack with 5, 10, 20 and 30 amp fuses, try to find a multi-pack of 20 amp units.
Quote from: alexXxand to test to see if any cables are pinched i should try running the bike and all before i tighten everything down, yeah?
Yep, good idea. :thumb:
ok so i jumped ahead of myself...i was all ready to replace the fuse and mess w/ the controls and cables...BUT...it turns out i did NOT blow a fuse...i checked it and it was fine...so...WHAT DID I DO?!?!?
- alex
Does the bike come on now(I mean the lights)? If so, I would just think that it was one of those electrical flukes. If it doesn't, replace the fuse anyway, you may have a hairline failure in the current fuse. The only way to be sure is if you can check for continuity on the suspect fuse.
Quote from: alexXx...what does it mean that the cables were too tight? i screwed 'em in too tight? i accidentally pinched the wires or...? i'm a little confused on the reasoning behind why this happened...
Yes, when you changed handlebars, and you didn't adjust the cables for the new bar, the slack may have been taken out when you remounted the cables to the new bar, because the new bar may be longer/taller/wider/whatever it may pull the cables more taught.
Since, you stated that the rpm's increase when the handlebars are turned to the right which would supposedly pull the choke cable tighter. Check around the left forktube to see if the cable is being pulled really tight around the forktube.
Quote from: scratchDoes the bike come on now(I mean the lights)? If so, I would just think that it was one of those electrical flukes. If it doesn't, replace the fuse anyway, you may have a hairline failure in the current fuse. The only way to be sure is if you can check for continuity on the suspect fuse.
uhm well...i replaced the fuse and the bike still had no lights or anything whatsoever...i guess i will try to buy brand new fuses and put one in, but...its not looking good guys...so...now what? im almost ready to just call a tow and get it to my local motorcycle shop, but i would really like to try and fix it myself first...
- alex
Check your battery contacts, side stand switch, and battery. If you don't have a multimeter, you might consider getting one, as they're around $10 for a cheap one and invaluable for sorting out electrical problems.
My guess though is that one of the contacts on the battery is loose. Make sure the screws are tight.
ok i changed the fuse and retightened my battery contacts...the bike lights DO come on now...
BUT...now the bike won't start...i hit the starter and the engine tries to start but ultimately wont turn over...kinda like if the battery was drained...but i just had the battery recharged a week ago...could it have been drained again so quickly? the mechanic at my local shop said the battery still looked good after he charged it for me...
- alex
Anything is possible...try jumping it off your car.
OK take out the spark plugs and see if you have the cylinders filled up with gas ...
Cool.
Srinath.
question about the cables...how could the be pinched since the cables have MORE slack now that i have srinath bars in? that doesnt make sense in my head...
- alex
See one occassion I installed the bars and the cable had somuch extra slack it ended up getting stuck in the nook between the headlight bolt and the triangle bracket, then when I turned it the other way it started binding ... You might have a cable that is just tight ... aka no free play ... also nothign is catching on the bar right ... they all spin free ... that was a issue ... OK mercdude had painted ones ... OK I forgot. cable routing and where the slack is is important ... youmight have to push in the cables and let there be more slack near the carbs.
Cool.
Srinath.
okay...my bike is ALL GOOD...turns out that all i needed to do was mess with the cable tensioner (is that what its called? that thing with the nut about a couple inches from where the cable meets the controls)...and it turns out that my bike wouldnt start since the throttle cable tension was screwed, it was like the throttle was always on, and so the bike couldnt start when it was too cold...it worked this afternoon when it was oddly warm enough and yeah...so things are cool...
ONE MORE QUESTION THOUGH...
so i bought 7/8 lockhart phillips bar ends but they dont exactly fit into the srinath bar...how would i go about filing the bar ends down?
THANKS Y'ALL
- alex
OK the press fits ... do the ends look like they have been drilled ... feel inside and see if there is a step ~ 1 inch inside the end ... That might be not there, I made drilled and un drilled and I believe I was giving people a choice ... Mercdude must have bought un drilled ... or that was all I had at that time or somehting ... You can drill it, but it will be a mofo to drill ... cos the wall is extra thick and its not easy by hand ... or you can get a nut welded in there and screw the end to that ...
If its drilled and you still dont fit ... OK that does happen ... you might have to sand the metal shank part a little and the rubber will get squished and press in ... Dont try to open up the bar more ...steel is harder to sand than Aluminum ...
Cool.
Srinath.
srinath - they're drilled bars, but what would i use to sand down the metal shank? is there anything i can buy at a hardware store? i dont have access to powertools and the like, so something i can file it down by hand would be awesome...
- alex
I had somepics I put up where I sanded them ... using werase's bar end's :lol: ...
Take the rubber part off and you just need to sand a tiny bit off the metal part of the weight that sticks inside the bar ... I used 80 grit sand paper, there is that kind they sell with adhesive backing ... advantage of that ... it sticks to your hand ... so I take a narrow strip of it and glue ti to my index finger and spin it wiht the other hand ... 5 mins or less per side ... You just probably want to fit it a few times ... then spray with some sticky substance like soap or rubber glue and put the rubber thing back and the nuts on it and stuff it in ... mallet or other soft object to tap it in ... remember the harder it is to tap in ... the impossibler (Yes that is a word now) it is to take out. Sand the rubber too a bit if its not fitting.
Cool.
Srinath.