so i finally got my muffler in the mail today and went right to work. it all went fine except one problem that i dont think i can live with. its stayin where it is untill spring at least however. anyway back to the issue. well just take a look and u'll see what i mean..
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v113/weaselnoze/DSCF0007.jpg)
see how its rotated inward? well i cant do shaZam! about it by adjusting anthing. u would thing just twisting the whole muffler and adapter pipe on the stock pipes would do the trick right? wrong. because of the angle of the adapter pipe, twisting it causes the muffler to hit a bolt on the caliper. so basically thats as far as i can rotate it. srinath, and suggestions on how to bend the pipe out a lil so i can rotate it a few degrees? keep in mind ihave it painted already. to the second but minor issue. the clamp taht goes around the muffler doesnt fit right. its made so the ends are supposed to come about 1/2 and inch from each other. here is another picture.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v113/weaselnoze/f90e5aa1.jpg)
now for the sound/performance. even tho i didnt rejet, i think there is a difference. i actually had the front tire come up a few inches several times. seems more ballsy too. sound is great. gets a lil quiet at the higher rpms but its ok. if anyone cares i'll try and get a sound clip up.[/img]
humm wonder if i should now do this mod.. its getting popular.
FWIW my can rotates inward too...five minute fix for me, I'll just cut it off an reweld it...I'm just too lazy to do it right now...plus it's pretty much cosmetic...the only reason it points down is because if it pointed up it would fill up with rainwater but since the angle isn't that extreme I don't really care...for now...
It's a little hard to tell from the photo but could the end cap be one hole off?
If the end cap is held on with rivets you could drill them out and rotate the end cap one hole to the left.
And if that doesn't line it up you could just put the end cap where you want it and mark and drill some new holes.
Dana
OK weazelnose ...
You have the head pipe sticking too long ... you should cut right ~2 inches from the weld ... you have a lot more left there ... That makes the can stick to the back more ... the clamp you got around the can is nearly off the inside end of the can ... they should be closer to the middle ... OK more like 1/4-1/3 way up. You slide it forward and rotate it so the flange goes closer to the swingarm ... and the can will rise at a higher angle and go in at a smaller angle ... and your brake banjo hitting will disappear ... as will the snout pointing at the back tire ...
Cool.
Srinath.
haha brake banjo, i thought long and hard about that one lol..
Anyway Dom... you too could cut the header and slide the mid pipe up further ... you also have a clamp that's almost sliding off the end of the can ... I always put it a good 2-3 inches up ...
Cool.
Srinath.
ok i'll do that first thing tomorrow but what about the clamp. its still not gonna be tight enough considering the ends are about 1" apart..?
Well oddly enough My clamps were all too small ... however you can cut a slice of inner tube and stick it in the contact area making for a clamp that has to now go round a larger diameter ... Or denim out of old jeans .... if no bicycle inner tube ... I sent inner tube wiht all the cans but only CF ones... the Ti didn't get scratched with the clamp ...
Cool.
Srinath.
well i bent a lil < shaped thing in the back to make it smaller. that looks better than denim lol
OK I misunderstood ...
The clamp is small ... OK usual problem ... I sometimes have bolted it to front and back of foot peg bracket ... sandwiching that thing between the ears ...
Cool.
Srinath.
If you want the exhaust tip to point straight back, take it from me, the easiest way to do it is to drill out the rivets on the very back and rotate it to your desired angle and pop rivet it back in place...I have tried everything and that is the only surefire way to get it done...remember to shake or vaccuum all the metal bits and rivit ends out of the can or else they will rattle around and drive you nuts.
Well Dom put pics up... I should point out... I had all the things pointing the way they should straight back eyeballed to be straight back ... but close enough ... and somehitng else will be preventing it from getting to that position ... if it doesn't... 70cam's is a good example ... he gotit located the same way I did ...
Cool.
Srinath.
well dom i should have listened to u about re-riveting. now im f#$%d and i dont know what to do next. i cut another 2 inches off like srinath said. made sense too. but in reality now my problems are worse. im still hitting the bolt on the rear caliper. thats no biggie. now my problem is the brake lever hits the adapter pipe and not just a little. what now?!
Rotate it outward and push it back in toward the hanger and tighten up the strap. You might have to press really hard. What you want once it's strapped down tight is that there is no way it can rotate inward toward the banjo bolt. If you rotate it outward far enough and strap it down, there IS a point where it won't rotate once it's strapped down, it should feel rock solid. When I shook mine the only thing that moved was the bike. It ended up sticking out from the banjo bolt a good inch.
If my fears are correct, once it is strapped down the exhaust tip will still point inward. At that point it's just easier, as I said, to remove the stainless tip and re-rivit it. I recommend 3/16" rivits with about a 1/2" of grab...aluminum is what they used but I think pop rivits are available in stainless...if you want to be really fancy.
i could try rotating it farther away from the brake lever.. the tip will be more outta wack then im sure. but i could just re-rivet so why not give it a try. my strap is so bent up tho.
Quote from: weaselnozewell dom i should have listened to u about re-riveting. now im f#$%d and i dont know what to do next. i cut another 2 inches off like srinath said. made sense too. but in reality now my problems are worse. im still hitting the bolt on the rear caliper. thats no biggie. now my problem is the brake lever hits the adapter pipe and not just a little. what now?!
Are you sure you read his post right. he said 2 inches from the weld, not another 2 inches. Just checking as that may be the problem.
Matt
2" from the weld was the same as me cutting it another 2" because it was 4" before. I think he had cut his to 4" from the weld too.
Quote from: weaselnozei could try rotating it farther away from the brake lever.. the tip will be more outta wack then im sure. but i could just re-rivet so why not give it a try. my strap is so bent up tho.
OK Did mean to leave you hanging but my Timewarner was out till few mins ago ... :x ...
OK you cut it so 2 inches are out from the weld are you able to slip it on closer to the weld?? ... OK you have the mid pipe hitting the foot peg ... its turned too far up most likely, now if you turned it down and not hit the foot peg ... and fitted the can on it ... your can will fit on correctly but have the snout off toward the tire - is that right??? ... OK Maybe your can's snout is angled wrong at assembly ... I dunno ... That snout pointing direction is just cosmetic and of course riveting it is always an option ... but the rest of it ... fit and hitting nothing and not comming close to banjo etc is important ... Post or send me a pic ...
Cool.
Srinath.
OK man I got confused between what you said and what the others said ... but now I read what you said more slowly ...
If you believe you cannot get it to work right and somehitng is off in the mid pipe/flange - I really doubt it cos I fit it on the bike and welded it up ... I'll send you a different flange/mid pipe ... now are you sure your header pipe is good and un bent in a earlier crash etc ... if that's the case you might not be able to fit on the thing at all ... Of course you can get a muffler shop to put some extra bends in the thing and get it modified to fit it ... You have had a load of trouble already with it ... I feel so bad ...
Cool.
Srinath.
OK did some serious eyeballing with 70 cam's photo, my pic from page 25 wof, and yours...
You should take off the can and grip the mid pipe right before the flange and twist it like opening the throttle ... yours is angled too high.
Now that will make the snout point way off to the tire and looks all f%&ked up ... but is it possible that you have the thing bolted on the flange 1 bolt off ... now if you look at my pic on page 25 wof ... links here ...
http://www.gstwin.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=member_bikes&id=avt
http://www.gstwin.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=member_bikes&id=avs
http://www.gstwin.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=member_bikes&id=avr
You'd see that the snout if pointed a shade to the outside ... whihc I believe how I set them all up ... so you'd maybe be 1 bolt hole out ... anyway if not ... your end can is riveted 1 hole off
The can Should not hit anything, mid pipe shouldn't hit stuff ... now the snout being off while its bad ... more cosmetic and yea re rivet it ... or call them again and raise hell again ... but might be a bit SOL if they know you are fitting a GS ... anyway tell them GSXR and tell them you are perfectly doing it and they are messed up ...
Cool.
Srinath.
im about to roll the whole f'ing bike off a cliff. christ this kinda shaZam! always happens to me. lemme see if i answer all the questions lol.
-i dont believe its bolted on the adapter pipe wrong. i did it the only way it looked right. i will double check tho.
-the mid pipe was cut just like everyone elses. not 2 inch short or 2 inches long. i after my second cut i have about 1/2 to 5/8 inches from the weld to the new pipe.
-the can hits the banjo bolt (or whatever u call it).
-the new mid pipe comes right up to the bottom of the brake lever, making it impossible to depress the lever. nothing is hitting the footpeg braket. i might add however, in the midst of all this BS i must have knocked the lil retaining ring off the pin that holds the foot peg in because i have no passenger footpeg now. oh well screw it.
so tomorrow this is what i will do:
-look to see if it is one bolt off
-look to see if i can rotate it away from all the obstacles
-smoke another whole pack of cigs while trying to make it work.
The brake lever ... and hitting the banjo = bad ... turn it like I said ... is your header in the stock original location ... cos I have seen some that were an inch off ... crash on the right can do that the banjo hit makes me think that is a possibility ... also make sure the head bolts that hold the header to the cylinder are on tight, and its lined up right ... somehting is off on your bike ... and not just the end cap on the can. And patience ... I have a cliff right across the street from my house ... so If I felt like rolling it off a cliff... that cliff would have been filled up 30 times over by now ...
Cool.
Srinath.
i dont really see any signs of the header pipe being bent from a crash, however it could be possible.
I took some more pics of my setup. Sorry about the brightness, it's dark right now. I took a couple showing the orientation of the can and the clearance it has. One shows a view from the front angle of how the adapter pipe is fitted.
I hope you get it worked out man. If you can only get the pipe in the right orientation, you might try doing like another did on my thread by drilling out the rivets, rotating the end cap, drill new holes, and install new rivets.
Good luck man
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/70CamGuy/GS500/rear.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/70CamGuy/GS500/front.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/70CamGuy/GS500/above1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/70CamGuy/GS500/above2.jpg
Quote from: weaselnozei dont really see any signs of the header pipe being bent from a crash, however it could be possible.
OK before you cut the pipe ... remember if the bracket and rubber that makes contact with center stand was right in the middle of the stand's square contact area spot. If the pipe was bent in ... contact will be made close to center line of the bike ... whihc almost certainly explains the banj contact with the can.
Cool.
Srinath.
Pointed inwards is a good thing. It disturbs the air behind the bike less. It has only been recently that superbike mfg's have picked up on this. Just a few years ago all the exhausts poitned back, now the tips are rotated to dump exhaust directly into the low pressure aera behind the bike.
well another day. good and bad. after much fanagling i got the orentation of the adapter pipe to fit correctly. with the brake lever depressed fully, it comes to about 1/4'' maybe less, from hitting the pipe. im satisfied with that. after i got the orentation correct, for some reason its not hitting the banjo anymore (shh i think its some kinda supernatural miracle :mrgreen: ). instead its about 4-5'' away! wtf?! well i played with it some more and got it to about an inch from that bolt. yay. all is good. now all i have to do is rerivet the end cap (it is now almost 90 degrees off towards the tire). dom, did u remove and reglue the wileyco sticker? cause it looks like urs is where its designed to be. now to the bad part of my day. in addition to taking a sledge hammer blow to my knee at work, the clutch cable adjuster is causing me more problems. its definately time for me to replace it. it moves around so much that everytime i shift, the friction zone is totally different. it goes from having so much slack that the clutch isnt fully engaged when lever is pulled all the way, to still being engaged when the lever is released. when its in the latter position, around 6K rpms, the clutch slips so bad taht i dont acclerate after 6K. basically im killing the clutch. shaZam!. im done for today.
oh and at the gas station today i dropped the bike on the exhaust side. i was so pissed, i turned it off and walked away and smoked a cig. then came back and picked it up. luckly the footpeg kept the brand new can from scraping the ground. no damage.
Before you go taking the cap off the end of the can and re-riveting it, see if you can unbolt the can from the flange and rotate it one bolt hole.
tryed it. it looks most normal the way i have it bolted now.
Regarding the sticker placement: The carbon fiber on my can is just a sleeve that slides over the aluminum tube that actually gives the can some strength. So on my can I could just turn the CF sleeve so that the sticker pointed in the direction I wanted it to. If I get tired being a mobile WileyCo billoard I can just loosen the strap and spin the CF sleeve toward the wheel.
Maybe the stainless steel is the same but just might take some coaxing or you might have to remove both ends. Your SS sleve might also be epoxied to the aluminum inner tube so it doesnt rattle...OR, the entire can might be made of SS. :dunno:
Have you bought the pop rivets yet? I saw some in stainless today at the local Ma & Pa hardware store and they wanted 30 cents a piece. I didn't bother... aluminum is lighter and I wanted to save myself the weight of the extra 5 grams. ;)
OK man atleast new crap is ruining your day ... glad the pipe turned out better today ... that story of yours made me want to have a cig... and I have never smoked in my life :?
Now ...The can and clamp etc can be shoved a bit ... quite a bit by hand into the location it should be ... dont worry about hurting it ... I have had to wrestle them into place .... Hold the mid pipe with right hand and put my left shoulder under the end cap and shove up into where I want it ... that's how I sprained my neck too ... not trying tantric sex position like my welder claims ... :) ...
Anyway put up a pic ... and that sticker ... atleast on some of the ones I got they were 1/2 off or fully off ... they aren't going to stay on too long I believe ... unless the heat hardens the glue ... the sticker can be pried off by finger nails ... OK OK dont break them trying ...
Cool.
Srinath.
haha man u make me laugh! any ideas on an adhesive to make sure it stays on the stainless? and dom i havent bought the rivets yet. im gonna do that whole thing some other day..
I just asked because I was wondering if you had drilled out the rivits yet( I'm curious to hear what the inside of your can looks like)
What if you drill the rivets on the front/threaded side of the can? That way the label and outlet pipe stay oriented the same way?
Quote from: weaselnozehaha man u make me laugh! any ideas on an adhesive to make sure it stays on the stainless? and dom i havent bought the rivets yet. im gonna do that whole thing some other day..
Emblem tape is what they used ... wonder if superglue will work any better ... or that 2 part spray hardener that body shops use to re affix the decals that stand up off the body ... Not a clue ... I have been pressing it back on ... Seems to stay better with pressure and making sure the air if out under it etc...
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: 70 Cam GuyWhat if you drill the rivets on the front/threaded side of the can? That way the label and outlet pipe stay oriented the same way?
actually i was considering doing that. just as easy. only thing is, will the new rivets hold just as good? it wouldnt matter on the cap end as much as the end w/ all the weight on it
Pry off the sticker ... and re rivet the end cap ... BTW dont see why your rivets aren't as good as the factory ones ...
Cool.
Srinath.
well wait. i never said they arent as good, i havent a clue. and why would u rotate the end cap as opposed to the other side. then i wouldnt have to deal w/ the sticker. just curious as to why u say the end cap..
Oh well no idea ... but the can can stay on the bike if you do the end cap ... no need to go through that whole mess again ... But I also assume the sticker is easy to get off.
Cool.
Srinath.
OK, to clarify - just stick a nail under the sticker and yank, and it'll come off without leaving anything to worry about behind? If Wileyco wants me to advertise for them, they can darn well buy the exhaust for me. :P
OK, since y'all took so long :lol:, I played around myself. A nail won't lift the sticker off, but a blunt instument (butter knife or caulk spreader, for instance) will. It left behind a line of glue at the top, which left a lighter mark where the glue was when I rubbed it off. Rubbing compound ameliorated it but didn't get rid of it entirely. I'm very anal, so a normal person probably wouldn't see anything. It's sure a heck of a lot better than the sticker.
I found that a putty knife took it right off. Put some masking tape around it so you dont scratch the surface of the pipe. then wedge the putty knife under it and pop, off it comes.