Well I was on the second leg of my ride this morning. Spent the AM in Angeles National forest and was heading down to Orange county for a ride through to cook's corner. Unfortunately I didn't make it that far.
Right at about 200 miles my bike died. I was on the freeway going about 75 mph when the big started to almost sputter I thought that I was low on gas, even though I knew I had plenty. I turned the petcock to reserve but the bike continued to slow and jerk. I ended up running out of speed in an area with no shoulder, and I had to duckwalk the last 100 feet until I got to the shoulder.
I waited 10 minutes, turned the petcock to PRI and set the choke on full. It started and ran long enough for me to get off the freeway.
Long story short; my riding buddies and I tore apart the bike but couldn't find a cause. Luckily it died less than a mile from a full service Suzuki dealer and I was able to ride it over.
Cause? The following: my bike had overheated. We went from 50 degrees in the morning to 80+ in the afternoon. Source? The aftermarket products. The K&N air box was to blame, according to the mechanic. My bike was running too hot, which also explained why my idle would jump to 6000 in stop and go. He checked the plugs and they were bright white, as opposed to tan.
I have had enough at this point; I'm bringing the stock airbox in tomorrow and he's going to pull the K&N box and rebuild the carbs (including returning to stock jet). I'm also going to have him do a valve adjustment. He's the second mechanic to tell me the K&N airbox is no good, even with the 140 mains.
Some may disagree, but long story short, I'm just glad it died near a dealer :)
You have K&N inside the airbox or the K&N pod instead of the airbox.
Stock jetting will make it lean as well ... 1 up from stock jetting is right for a all stock bike ... 40/125/1 washer/3 turns ... for all stock bike ...
Cool.
Srinath.
The pod...
Previous owner did it all...... I don't know much about it besides the fact that it was the pod and he rejetted using 140s. Th mechanic said the pod was actually sucking air away from the carbs :|
POD = 150 mains ... Stock is lean by 1 size ... you are lean by 4 right now ... Better option is to use 150 mains ... and WTF is rebuilding carbs ... I dont think you need rebuild anything ... carbs that leak need rebuild ... you need the right jets in it.
40/150/1 washer/3 turns ... send it to me and I'll do it for $40 ... or you buy $20 of jets and go to town ... no trick to it.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: JCHThe pod...
Previous owner did it all...... I don't know much about it besides the fact that it was the pod and he rejetted using 140s. Th mechanic said the pod was actually sucking air away from the carbs :|
The pod is sucking air away from the carbs ... You have a Vacuum cleaner installed in it ... that absolutely made no sense ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Sorry, I was full of crap. I went back and pulled the specs from the original for sale post....
Rejetted with 40 pilots, 147.5 mains, K&N Pod filter.
You are still 1 size off ... but hardly enough to do any more than make your rpm hang a shade ... overheating ... no ... OK then where is the float ... to the gasket level and not higher ... check oil level as well ... some else is off if not these 2 ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Oil was changed 400 miles ago. The float I don't know, that is a very good question.
Unfortunately I left the bike 40 miles away so I can't check the needle (now would I really know how to) but it is something I will pass along to him.
My initial concern was due to the idle (going from 1.5 up to 6000 in stop and go after a while) but now with this.... I'm wondering if maybe it has something to do with the valves? Valve adjustment? I don't know nearly enough about this type of stuff, but I'm trying to learn.
wondering if your intake boots wernt sucking air. Vacume leaks will do the same.
Yea check valves though valves misbehave most right at start up ... and after it gets warm they clear up ... now if it was bad when warm ... then cold will be a nightmare ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Angeles Forest then to Cooks ? sounds like a nice, long ride. Too bad about getting stuck though.
I would think its vacuum leak related...up to 6K is A LOT. Even when lean it really only goes up to 4k or so...and it would do it consistently once the engine warms up if it were lean.
if u end up getting the valve adjustment, let us know what he charges. i wanna know outta curiosity
Valves need to be checked every four thousand (4,000) miles.
I have been noticing, lately, that most people on this board that are having problems with their idle going up, are reporting that a valve adjustment has cleared up their problem.
Note I stated that valves need to be checked every 4000 miles, they don't always have to be adjusted (shims changed out/exchanged/bought).
Maybe, if we changed our oil every 2000 miles, we wouldn't have to check and adjust our valves every 4000.
I dropped the stock air box off today (well I through it over the barbed wire fence with a note attached). Also left him a note to check for vacuum leaks and to call me regarding the valve adjustment.
I'll let you guys know the final outcome.
WTF? How ghettto is this shop?
Its not ghetto, its just that the dealership was closed. He told me to chuck it over the fence and onto some cardboard boxes so that he could get workin on it first thing Tuesday AM when they open ;)
What kind of pipe do you have?
stock
Your freeway 75pmh out of fuel experience maybe be just the case of fuel starvation, and prolly not related to your high idle problem.
Cheers,
e.