So, last time i dropped my bike I broke the glass that is on top of the speedometer. I thought, hey, it'll be easy, i'll just take apart the housing and go to my local glass supplier and get him to cut me out a slice.
took apart the housing, thank you clymers. got to the housing. no more instructions.
cant get the glass off. put it all back together. Speedometer works fine. Piece of tape over broken glass, not so good. Water is kept out of it, it works fine, broken to hell glass.
went to bikebandit.com, they wanted $211 for another speedo housing.
tell me fellas, there has got to be a way.
Any comments are greatly appreciated.
ha, also, weird story.
Was at a christmas party. Buddy of mine had a sv650. He had his first fall. didn't like motorcycles anymore. tried to talk him back on the bike. he's decided a cage is better. bought a sv650. rode it once. got an offer from it. split the proceeds with the late biker.
too bad though, that 650 had some torque. much different riding , naked sportbike
Quadruple post :dunno:
yikes. I hit submit, and it just looked at me, as if to say "do you really think I posted"
all apologies.
Just so happens that I've been getting into the "dash board" of my GS project. I have some pics on my website, click the "here" in my signature and look in the photoalbums section. Or you could look in my general post "Just Picked up my GS500 project" for some shots of how I get into the tach and speedo.
With all that said, I have the glass out of a faded and invaded tach. If you get into yours by my method, or the "bend the lip until you can remove the housing" method used my Srinath and Jared, we can make a deal for certain.
Let me know if I can help. Tach/speedo glass is curved but flat should work OK if the correct thickness.
ok, so if i understand your pictures correctly, one should try and get the metal off, along with the glass.
That looks quite technical.
The glass is broke out enough where i could just break the rest of it off. If i were to get some replacement glass, and were unable to get into the sealed container, do you reckon there might be a way to just afix the glass on the housing?
without it looking too poorly?
but suffice to say, that this is possible to fix
It is easy for me to understand because I was there. :)
I file away the back part of the black aluminum ring and toss it. There is less than 1/8 inch holding the assembly onto the white housing. I plan to use RTV to tack the ring/glass assembly back on and seal the front.
There are really three pieces to the faceplate. From the top:
1 - the black aluminum curved piece that wraps around the edge of the housing (this is the part I file through)
2 - a rubber ring curved like the outer aluminum and fitting like a glove. This has the glass in a slotted section.
3 - another black aluminum ring, internal, that masks the edges of the speedo and tach. This is mostly flat with a tiny crimp.
With any method you remove #2 with the glass and replace either the entire glass and rubber ring from a donor or just the glass. Reassembly depends on your method of disassembly.
It is really simple but then again I had a sacrificial tach to play with. I think Srinath was cleaning crap off the inside and Jared did whiteface dials for his. I've been playing with the idea but may go hightech since I do electronics for a living.
I opened mine to do the same thing ... or a similar thing ... swap the broken insides for a good inside mechanism ... Cleaning ... ha ha easier than turning it back ... take windex .. the non aerosol type and pour it in the light bulb hole ... slosh it about and pour it out via that drain hole ... then spray silicone or wd40 or motor oil for the mechanism ... dont grease it like I did ...
Turning it back .... OK you need a pick and put it in that light bulb hole ... that's all I'll say ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Man, I can't decide whether or not to just break the rest of the glass out and then replace that, or just dremel into the housing. I am going to try and do both... I have a friend that digs dremels.
Ok, last ditch effort, what about replacing it with either a digital speedo, or where can I get a junk one?
If you don't care if the metal ring is dented up I have a Bezel- already off the gauge housing . It's not pretty but the glass is intact. About 270 degrees of the ring is ok -has a good dent and an abrasion on the other 90 degrees (put that part down and to the center-less noticeable).
OK I have a speedo for $20 ... now the thing is ... its the 01 and later style ... and its chrome ... I have the tach too to match ... $40 for the pair ... prolly the simplest option ... opening and closing it is not easy and its definitely not pretty ... Its not that hard ... but still its rather like working with tin foil ... one wrong twitch of the hand and its history ...
Cool.
Srinath.
A digital tach or speedo requires more than the stock GS has to offer.
The speedo is taken off the mechanical interface with the front wheel. To go digital, a sensor or signal source has to take the place of the speedo cable or go in series with it. (I am working on this but it is a way back burner project).
The tach also has a mechanical interface but a source of accurate RPM is the signal generator output divided by 2. (Another back burner project idea).
I bring up accuracy because the eddy current coupling of both instruments is subject to the amount of mechanical resistance in the needle mechanism. The GSTwinner that has the post about the LED tail lights has a good enough explaination of how the tach and speedo needles do their thing. The resistance of the needle spring is probably close across all models (say +/- 5%) but the two tachs I have are very different due to the goo applied to dampen the movement. I suspect it has a fairly wide temperature profile.
Well, this post is getting way too technical. All the fellow wants to do is keep it from raining into his speedo. Cut or pry the thing open and get a glass/rubber assembly from one of us. Reassemble depending on disassembly. :)