I was in the process of parking my bike yesterday when I guess I cut the wheel to hard and lost balance (not quite sure where my feet were since I was maybe going 1 mph), anyway the bike went down. I got the bike back up pretty quick and though it had some problems starting back up within a few mins it was fine. I rode it home after work (8 hours later) and it felt a little off but no problems starting the bike up. This morning it initally started up fine, but after running maybe 30 secs it died. I started it back up and revved it some with full clutch on and when I let off the throttle it died again. I did this several times for a few mins with the same results. Any ideas? Thanks for your help.
A couple of ideas...
-Check the choke cable for partial binding
-Check the throttle cable for any problems
-Check the idle screw adjustment
-A jet may be loose inside the carb
Sounds like an idle issue but don't know why it would be affected from dropping the bike.
btw...which side of the bike went down?
B-a-a-a-a
B-a-a-a-a
It went down on the right side. I didn't think it landed to hard there are any scratches. I don't know if it had anything to do with the length of time the bike was down before I got it up. Thanks for your help.
that wierd... i skid my bike about 30 feet on my right side... and it still rode fine....
O.k., I searched your posts, you have a 2001, did you rejet?
Now, regarding the not running prob, the only thing I can think of is while it was on it's side something got clogged, like the rollover valve, if it has one. If the rollover valve clogs, it doesn't allow the tank to vent.
I did not rejet. I ended up just taking the bike to the mechanic and he adjusted the choke cable, throttle cable and the idle on the carb, which seemed to fix my high idle problem. Sorry, I wish they offered a beginners mechanics course here, I'm pretty illiterate.
I'll have to look up where the rollover valve is to check it out. I cranked it up this afternoon and it stayed on, but sounded bad. It sounded like one of those old clunker cars.... put..put..put. It does sound like something is blocked I'm just not sure what.
Check your exhaust system for leaks, especially at the head.
Is it possible that you're running on 1 cylinder? The right side contains the signal generator circuits that help determine when (and IF) the plugs fire. Something could have been jarred loose in there.
Here are a few ideas:
1) Remove the right side case cover (3 small bolts) and see if anything looks out-of-place.
2) With the bike in neutral and on the centerstand, start the engine and turn the idle up a little bit. With the engine still running, pull one of the spark plug wires and make a note of what happens. Does the engine immediately die ... or keep running but not as well ... or keep running with no change? Turn the bike off, replace the spark plug wire, start the bike again, and pull the OTHER spark plug wire and note any change in behavior.
If the spark plug is not firing in one of the cylinders, then when you pull the spark plug wire for the OTHER cylinder the engine will stop running altogether. If both plugs are firing (and there are no fuel supply problems) then the bike will probably still run when you pull one of the wires ... but it will run roughly. (Putt, putt.)
3) If you get a kick out of gathering evidence, use the spark plug wrench in the under-the-seat toolbag (or an 18mm wrench) to remove one of the plugs. Push the spark plug wire back onto the plug, and touch the metal end of the plug against the cooling fins or another part of the engine block (preferably AWAY from the spark plug hole). It's best if you can get the plug to touch the engine block under its own weight; if you try to hold it in place yourself you may get a nasty shock (or 2) before you can let go.
(http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_1781_TestingForSpark.jpg)
Now start the bike (or at least turn the engine over with starter) and see if there is a spark jumping across the spark plug gap. If so, note its appearance. Is it a sickly yellow, or an "electric" blue? Replace the plug and do the same thing on the other side.[/list:u]Come back with the results and we'll go from there. :thumb:
EDIT: Added the picture. I didn't realize that I had one! :oops:
Check the plugs and make sure one didnt get fouled out, make sure there in nice and snug when you put them back in and then make sure the plug wires are on all the way too.
Vball --did you ever figure out what your problem was? It sounds like I'm having a similar problem and hope it isn't too complicated
I took it back to the shop and they basically just readjusted the idle on it. Then it ended up doing the high rev thing again so they cleaned the carbs. I personally think that the problem is where the idle is set. Because even after cleaning the carbs out it still keeps shutting off until it is really really warmed up. I'm thinking about just turning the idle a little to see if it will help it stay on without creating high rev problems.
Quote from: Vball24I took it back to the shop and they basically just readjusted the idle on it. Then it ended up doing the high rev thing again so they cleaned the carbs.
why would they even recommend that your clean carbs? unless you've asked for it...
I had this same problem, but not after a drop. It would run for 30 secs. or so and die. Then the last time I tried starting it, bike shut off and there was the most obnoxious high pitch squealing sound, like a tornado siren (loud enough that my roommate came outside to investigate). After unhooking the battery, I isolated the sound to my gas cap. I popped it open and the sound stopped. It was suction from the gas cap. I took the tank off and cleared a clog in the vent tube. Also, one of my plugs was so fouled that it was only running on one cylinder. Getting it back together tonight. Hopefully no more surprises. I'll probably take it in to have the carbs cleaned this weekend.