Okay....My throttle has had a flat spot for a while. It starts from idle to around 2500 rpms. I have to really ease into it until I get past the dead spot. Otherwise I start to stall. Not good when I'm trying to cross a busy intersection. So, today I decided I'd try to tackle this problem by 1) synching the carbs, 2) adjusting the air/fuel mixture screw.
The carbs are stock and have been cleaned recently( thanks the Marc's tutorial). I think I got the butterflies evened out. There was only a slight difference. Then I thought I'd try (through trial and error) to adjust the air/fuel mixture screws. Somehow I lost where the stock settings were. Now my bike revs real low and wont go past 2000rpms. I turned them out till the top of the screw was flush with the start of the thread. I think I need to tighten them a few more turns in. But how much? My bike was running "okay" till I messed with it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
OK You have the screw head flush with the outer "well housing" its in ... Lovely ... I am surprised it didn't fall out ... Turn it all the way in to lightly seated ... and turn out 3 turns ... after ~ 5 its not having any effect anyway ... you most likely would have had one or both fall out in case your bike actually ran ... so count yourself lucky ...
BTW 3 turns is just a starting point ... this adjustment is totally freaking insane ... cos the screw is a sharply tapered steel screw in a aluminum housing ... you tighten it more and the taper will sink in further into the aluminum making for a bigger hole ... so you'll have to set it further out to have the same effect cos your screw sits deeper in when lightly seated ... This setting it totally misunderstood ... I ahve people that try to richen it by opening this screw ... and turns out they want better full throttle response ... :? ... Nope only affects idle and right off idle ... 2K max ...
Cool.
Srinath.
i hope i didn't lose a screw cuz i took the bike up and down the block for a test drive. i didn't get very far since it could barely hold idle. the screws were about half way in the housing. i gave up and turned "here" for help after that. i hope there still there.
do you suggest jetting if i can't clear the dead spot? wouldn't i also have to change the stock air filter? i'm pretty broke right now. i'm trying to find the cheapest solution. i'm gonna adjust the screws as you said. i'll let you know how it turns out. thanks Srinath! u r da man!
Not to threadjack, but do you have a link to that carburator cleaning tutorial?
Quote from: mondo27i hope i didn't lose a screw cuz i took the bike up and down the block for a test drive. i didn't get very far since it could barely hold idle. the screws were about half way in the housing. i gave up and turned "here" for help after that. i hope there still there.
do you suggest jetting if i can't clear the dead spot? wouldn't i also have to change the stock air filter? i'm pretty broke right now. i'm trying to find the cheapest solution. i'm gonna adjust the screws as you said. i'll let you know how it turns out. thanks Srinath! u r da man!
I am almost certain you'd have to rejet to make any headway into that Under 2K under load area ... AKA just as you are attempting to ride off from a stop ... AKA 0-1/8th throttle ... Pilot Jet territory ... You may be able to get it to idle etc for now ... Jet it when you want to ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: Eisenfaustdo you have a link to that carburator cleaning tutorial?
Check the
How To Pages. (There's a link on the
gstwin.com homepage.)
okay. everything seems fine now. idle is around 1200-1400 and throttle response is 10x better! the dead spot is gone when i'm in neutral and just opening it up. reaction time isn't quite what i hope for but it smooth and doesn't stick. however, when i put it in gear, it's still choppy around that range.
i'll try and rejet. i would go to the dealer here in town but their service sucks and they're pricey. they monopolize since they're the only decent shop in town. i ordered a diaphram for the front master cylinder and never heard from them. 2 months later i order from bikebandit and had the part in a few days. anyone know a good website to order jets from?[/img][/quote]
You need to train your dealer ... some of them are born assholes and untrainable ...
The pilots I buy from the dealer, they cost like $15 for a pack of 4 ... and I buy so many they are well trained to get me the right stuff. mains They have in a big old box ... those are like 2.50 a piece. The other thing is ... the store shouldn't have a minimum amount for each order ... Bike bandit does ... and its almost like $30 I think ... If you want I can get it and send you like I am doing for many ...
Cool.
Srinath.
yeah i looked at bikebandit but wasn't sure if they were the right ones. atleast i know i'll be getting the right ones from you. pm me and give me all the details so i can send you proper compensation for your trouble. but can i get away with just changing the pilots to fix the problem without getting a new filter? or will it not work without changing the mains, too? either way i can just hold on to them till i have enough cash to get all the stuff that i need. i get a raise in 3 months!!!! don't wanna wait that long to ride, though. hook me up!
The stock filter and air box is fine. I wash the paper flter in gas and reuse it ... 3-4 times then I think its going to be toast. Anyway The mains and pilots, washers and bolts for a full rejet is going to run you Under $20 including shipping and paypal commission. Might as well do it all when you have the thing apart ... too much work to do it 3-4 times. Once you swap the jets and bolts on the floats all adjustments are external.
Cool.
Srinath.
sounds like a deal to me! i can't wait to see how it runs after the rejet!!