Hi, has anybody got any experience on an early 90's CBR600 shock.
It mesures the correct size hole to hole (around 295mm) but is a bit bigger in diameter, i tried fitting it but had lots of trouble alligning it, it hits on the metal on the botom part ... any ideas ...?
Pavlos
--------------------------
GS500F Black ..
Bandit Shock
15t sprocket
140/70 B45
Come on, nobady has any experience or words of wisdom with a CBR600 shock ..?
It's in the middle of the night right now in the U.S., which is where most of the posters are. Wait a few hours.
If I have to guess, it is because the shock has a short "neck". You might have to grind off a little of the steel linkage at the bottom for it to fit. Do a search on GSXR shock.
Cheers,
e.
Sorry didn't mean to offend ....
Pavlos
Quote from: Pavlos01Hi, has anybody got any experience on an early 90's CBR600 shock.
It mesures the correct size hole to hole (around 295mm) but is a bit bigger in diameter, i tried fitting it but had lots of trouble alligning it, it hits on the metal on the botom part ... any ideas ...?
Pavlos
--------------------------
GS500F Black ..
Bandit Shock
15t sprocket
140/70 B45
I do not want to sound like an ass but it is a Honda Shock that was designed to fit a Honda.
The length from hole to hole is not the only issue when mounting a shock. I do not know for sure but I would guess that Honda and Suzuki use a slightly different swingarm linkage and ratio which would make shocks from two different bike of the same length act differently.
Also you want to take into account how much the shock piston moves in rlationship to the swingarm travel. Some shock are designed with a very short travel and others have more travel and this is all based on the suspension ratio that Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha has designed into their bikes. Also you need to take into account the spring-rate that each shocks spring is designed for otherwise you might be installing a shock with a very stiff or soft depending on the rate of the stock GS500 rear spring.
Try and stick with Suzuki donor shocks since they were usually designed around a similar suspenion design and mounting points. The spring-rate issue will be less of an issue and the diameter of the mounting holes might be the same. The GSXR family of shocks and The Katana shocks seem to be good donors for the GS500. Some of they shock will be a bit longer which will end up raising the rear of the GS about an inch but the spring rates and ease of mounting seem to be more in line.
OK that CBR shock is eyelet eyelet, the GS needls eyelet clevise.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: tkm433Quote from: Pavlos01Hi, has anybody got any experience on an early 90's CBR600 shock.
It mesures the correct size hole to hole (around 295mm) but is a bit bigger in diameter, i tried fitting it but had lots of trouble alligning it, it hits on the metal on the botom part ... any ideas ...?
Pavlos
--------------------------
GS500F Black ..
Bandit Shock
15t sprocket
140/70 B45
I do not want to sound like an ass but it is a Honda Shock that was designed to fit a Honda.
The length from hole to hole is not the only issue when mounting a shock. I do not know for sure but I would guess that Honda and Suzuki use a slightly different swingarm linkage and ratio which would make shocks from two different bike of the same length act differently.
Also you want to take into account how much the shock piston moves in rlationship to the swingarm travel. Some shock are designed with a very short travel and others have more travel and this is all based on the suspension ratio that Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha has designed into their bikes. Also you need to take into account the spring-rate that each shocks spring is designed for otherwise you might be installing a shock with a very stiff or soft depending on the rate of the stock GS500 rear spring.
Try and stick with Suzuki donor shocks since they were usually designed around a similar suspenion design and mounting points. The spring-rate issue will be less of an issue and the diameter of the mounting holes might be the same. The GSXR family of shocks and The Katana shocks seem to be good donors for the GS500. Some of they shock will be a bit longer which will end up raising the rear of the GS about an inch but the spring rates and ease of mounting seem to be more in line.
OK this is a freaking load of BS .... kawi EX500 shocks fit a GS just fine, the GS shocks fit kawi eliminators great ... yea that clevise on the bottom of the GS shock will fit on a eli 1000's lower shock bolt even though its shock is eyelet eyelet ... use the right sized sleeve as a spacer ... Cross brands Big f%$king deal ... all shocks are made by kayaba or Showa ... If the fittings look like they will work ... its all worth a try ... ride around and see if its OK, if its not OK toss it and go on to the next ... The CBR one inparticular is just a bit too much work.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: seshadri_srinath
OK this is a freaking load of BS .... kawi EX500 shocks fit a GS just fine, the GS shocks fit kawi eliminators great ... yea that clevise on the bottom of the GS shock will fit on a eli 1000's lower shock bolt even though its shock is eyelet eyelet ... use the right sized sleeve as a spacer ... Cross brands Big f%$king deal ... all shocks are made by kayaba or Showa ... If the fittings look like they will work ... its all worth a try ... ride around and see if its OK, if its not OK toss it and go on to the next ... The CBR one inparticular is just a bit too much work.
Cool.
Srinath.
Yes, you can make anything fit but the question is will it work correctly once installed. Will it make the bike ride better or worse than stock? As you stated above and as I pointed out the Honda shock is not a good donor due to the work required. Yes, it can be made to fit but again will it work? "FIT" does not equal "WORKS"
You are still under the belief that Metric Bolts and SAE Bolts "FIT" in the same threaded hole so why not use them.
My personal view is to change something if the end product is better than what you started with in the first place and this concerns more than the issue of "fit" since there is the issue of function. When it comes to suspension there are many variable to play which and "fit" is just the starting point.
Yes, I do think it is great to try different parts in order to hope to improve the quality and performance of our bikes but at some point I feel that we need to do some research into how things work before we attempt to change things such as suspension, carb settings, carb sizes, tire sizes and so on and that is where the internet, this site, and Google comes in handy to help us research stuff.
You (Srinath) and I might never see eye to eye on some things and that in some ways is what makes this site cool in that we can post our views and allow others more possible approaches to their end goal such as this issue of the CBR shock. I think we both answered this post and more or less came to the same conclusion that the CBR shock is not a good donor for a GS project.
something to consider......
the GS probably has a 350-450 # spring
if i remember correctly..... the WP hurricane shock i used to have had a 800-900 # spring
just because it fits don't mean it will work......
Quote from: tkm433Quote from: seshadri_srinath
OK this is a freaking load of BS .... kawi EX500 shocks fit a GS just fine, the GS shocks fit kawi eliminators great ... yea that clevise on the bottom of the GS shock will fit on a eli 1000's lower shock bolt even though its shock is eyelet eyelet ... use the right sized sleeve as a spacer ... Cross brands Big f%$king deal ... all shocks are made by kayaba or Showa ... If the fittings look like they will work ... its all worth a try ... ride around and see if its OK, if its not OK toss it and go on to the next ... The CBR one inparticular is just a bit too much work.
Cool.
Srinath.
You are still under the belief that Metric Bolts and SAE Bolts "FIT" in the same threaded hole so why not use them.
DIAF
Hey Tkm ... read my post.
I was only talking about fit. The point was it will not fit due to eyelet eyelet. I never said work or anything similar ... fit is what is at a minimum you need. Once you fit it ... you would ride around on it and decide if it works for you or not. Whihc would be the definition of "Work" ... and I didn't say it will work ... I didn't say it wont work. I just said cross brand fitting is fine cos shocks are all made by different manufacturers ... Showa or kayaba ... You said that since its a Honda shock it wont fit a suzuki. I said Kawi shocks fit the GS and the GS shocks fit another kawi, and heck Honda shadow 1100 or valkyrie shocks fit an eli 1000 like a glove ... no mods or sleeve even needed.
BTW I didn't say SAE bolts fit a Metric thread. I said Machine thread bolts fit a Metric thread nut better than the metric bolts fit due to the fact that the Machine thread was better quality, better material and closer tolerance than the Metric available at my Home depot. Read what I said before jumping to a conclusion.
Cool.
Srinath.
What is DIAF?
also, tkm... it's obvious you and srinath don't agree on fastener chioces, but do you need to keep bringing it up on every thread that he posts in?
Pavlos01, I'd suggest you try to trade your cbr shock for a katana one. Every one seems to agree that the katana shock is a) easy to fit b)a tried and true upgrade.
Also, the age of your donor shock is worrisome. Wouldn't it suck if you went thru all that work to fit it, and the dampening effect was worse, due to it being so old/worn? just my humble opinion....
Quote from: se7enty7
DIAF
I give up ... What is DIAF ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Dominant Introverted Abstract Feeler?
:lol: :o :? :lol: :lol:
Hi, thanks for all the info ...
The issue is that I have found a guy that imports used parts from JP and has no clue what they come from, so he is like you need shock here are a couple hundred used take what you need ... so I have to figure out what they came from ....
Now re the CBR
I have tryied and looks like I need to remove a big chunk of metal to make it work ... so will give it back ..
Nevertheless I had success with the bandit shock, the only thing is that it feels quite loose ... would prefer something stiffer..
Unfortunately the GSX600F (katana) or 750 didn't really sell much down here so its preaty difficult to get any shocks .....
Anyway will have to do with the bandit one for now...
Thanks
Pavlos
Well B6 shocks aren't that good A B12 however is just about perfect. So what Bandit is that shock from ... if its a 600, swap it for the 1200 one.
If GSXR's are available get one from a 90-95 750 or a 90-98 1100 shock. they are both great shocks even if they are a little stiff for the street ... but if you think a Bandit 6's shock is not stiff ... those might be fine.
Cool.
Srinath.
Judging by the context, I'd say: DIAF
"Don't Initiate A Fight", but that could be out of left field.
Quote from: Jake DJudging by the context, I'd say: DIAF
"Don't Initiate A Fight", but that could be out of left field.
Die In A Fire
Oh that was funny ...
There is an expression In Hindi that compares to this ... Its like "may you get washed away in a flood" or some like that ...
I try to take it positively ... He just said Machine thread (OK he said SAE) is wrong for it ... and he was basically trying to get me to buy Higher quality metric bolts ... The Lowes/HD metric stuff is total crap, they have better Machine thread and it was fitting better than the right metric stuff, I really didn't say SAE threads belong in a metric hole, I said The Machine thread fit and measured and worked better than Metric ... so I used it ... for 6 + years in mine before I fitted other peoples bikes. Now Of course I could buy a Box of 100 bolts that prolly may cost me 2X the cost of the Home depot SS stuff ... and I probably should start charging more for the work to cover it ... I dunno ... there is a price point ... You dont want a $1500 set of wheels on a $700 bike ... sorta ... I dont actually do enough carbs to justify a block of 100 ... I dont want to buy bolts for the next 4 years ... So I just said anyone wanting differnt bolts send it along with carbs ... Somehitng good would come from it I thought.
Shocks ... slightly different story. If the CBR shock will fit the first thing I'd do is bolt it on and ride around the block ... if that feels good, then try a ride to work ... if that is good then try it across the state or Fine Ride to werase's house and have him ride the bike ... Then I'll post here syaing its great ... They put very generic stuff on all the bikes ... whihc is actually why jap bikes are so cheap ... they share levers, alternator pieces, switches, many many many bolts, and in many cases wheels and discs and of course suspension bits ... Its not a permanent change ... put it on. ride it, dont like it toss it ... I'd then post here saying I did this and it didn't feel right ... so someone else doesn't get disappointed ... Saying its a Honda and hence you shouldn't use it ... that's just being blind to the fact that these are generic as can be ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: seshadri_srinathOh that was funny ...
There is an expression In Hindi that compares to this ... Its like "may you get washed away in a flood" or some like that ...
I try to take it positively ... He just said Machine thread (OK he said SAE) is wrong for it ... and he was basically trying to get me to buy Higher quality metric bolts ... The Lowes/HD metric stuff is total crap, they have better Machine thread and it was fitting better than the right metric stuff, I really didn't say SAE threads belong in a metric hole, I said The Machine thread fit and measured and worked better than Metric ... so I used it ... for 6 + years in mine before I fitted other peoples bikes. Now Of course I could buy a Box of 100 bolts that prolly may cost me 2X the cost of the Home depot SS stuff ... and I probably should start charging more for the work to cover it ... I dunno ... there is a price point ... You dont want a $1500 set of wheels on a $700 bike ... sorta ... I dont actually do enough carbs to justify a block of 100 ... I dont want to buy bolts for the next 4 years ... So I just said anyone wanting differnt bolts send it along with carbs ... Somehitng good would come from it I thought.
Shocks ... slightly different story. If the CBR shock will fit the first thing I'd do is bolt it on and ride around the block ... if that feels good, then try a ride to work ... if that is good then try it across the state or Fine Ride to werase's house and have him ride the bike ... Then I'll post here syaing its great ... They put very generic stuff on all the bikes ... whihc is actually why jap bikes are so cheap ... they share levers, alternator pieces, switches, many many many bolts, and in many cases wheels and discs and of course suspension bits ... Its not a permanent change ... put it on. ride it, dont like it toss it ... I'd then post here saying I did this and it didn't feel right ... so someone else doesn't get disappointed ... Saying its a Honda and hence you shouldn't use it ... that's just being blind to the fact that these are generic as can be ...
Cool.
Srinath.
what irritates me is that THIS WAS SETTLED. He comes into just about any thread you post in, acting like you're trying to make a buck from this.... he doesn't get it... that you AREN'T making money on this. That you're saving US money, because the bolts you use work fine. I have them, I've toyed with them and with the 'correct' size and they are the same. same play when nearly screwed in, and if you hold the threads together NO light shows through
Yup ... That whole issue of bolt quality comes into play ... in 6 years I opened up my carbs like 100 times ... these are better than steel which rusts and galls and rips the threads ... and the whole issue of bolt quality is also a question ... Metric stuff off the shelf is total shaZam! ... besides its a Cheap ass aluminum alloy carb ... you're not supposed to torque these like they are lug nuts on a Tractor trailer ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Quotewhat irritates me is that THIS WAS SETTLED. He comes into just about any thread you post in, acting like you're trying to make a buck from this.... he doesn't get it... that you AREN'T making money on this. That you're saving US money, because the bolts you use work fine. I have them, I've toyed with them and with the 'correct' size and they are the same. same play when nearly screwed in, and if you hold the threads together NO light shows through
I completely agree. I'm tired of the guy picking on Srinath, when he apparently has researched everything EXCEPT real world application.
While I havent messed with these particular bolts, as an ASE Master Tech, and after 16 years of wrenching, my theory is "if it works, and continues to work without problems, use it"
Quote from: cummuterguyQuotewhat irritates me is that THIS WAS SETTLED. He comes into just about any thread you post in, acting like you're trying to make a buck from this.... he doesn't get it... that you AREN'T making money on this. That you're saving US money, because the bolts you use work fine. I have them, I've toyed with them and with the 'correct' size and they are the same. same play when nearly screwed in, and if you hold the threads together NO light shows through
I completely agree. I'm tired of the guy picking on Srinath, when he apparently has researched everything EXCEPT real world application.
While I havent messed with these particular bolts, as an ASE Master Tech, and after 16 years of wrenching, my theory is "if it works, and continues to work without problems, use it"
I am sorry if you feel that I am picking on Srinath every chance that he post but that is not the case. I pointed out that I felt it was wrong for him to use non-metric bolts in carbs that were threaded to use metric no matter how close he felt the fit was to being correct. I think my main issue was that he was working on carbs for other people and was getting paid to do so and he was using the wrong bolts to reassemble the carbs. If he wants to super-glue, duct tape, zip-tie, JB weld his own bike together I have no problem with that since it is his bike but when it comes to a customers set of carbs I feel that he should only use the correct size part and not one that he feels will do the job.
I think he is doing good for the GS500 community in making handle bars, fork braces and just about everything else and just for being there to help those who are in need and anyone who vistits this site knows that but the only real issue that I have had concerns the use of the wrong size bolts since you should know better being a ASE Master Tech that Metric threads and SAE or USS sizes are not interchangeable. I have never seen it in print where a Haynes, Chiltons, Toyota, Isuzu, Yamaha, Suzuki, Honda or any other Tech manual has stated that Metric was interchangeable with SAE or USS sizes and I would bet that none of the manuals that you studied to become an ASE Master Tech stated it either.
As for your comment "I'm tired of the guy( tkm433 or real name Tod) picking on Srinath, when he apparently has researched everything EXCEPT real world application" I guess you are correct in some part in that I have never tried to thread a Non-Metric bolt into a hole that was threaded for a Metric bolt just in hopes that it might fit. Maybe I did when I was a kid and did not know any better but that was almost 30 years ago.
As for real world applications I have been getting paid to turn a wrecnh for the last 25 years with a couple of years in speciality automotive and have done all of the work on my own motorcycles two-stroke and four-stroke and all of my cars and trucks unless I did not have special tools needed for the job.
Some how I managed to piss a few off on this site because I questioned Srinath's actiions and maybe I had a sound argument or maybe it is just that I dared to question him but for whatever reason I find it funny that I pointed out a simple view about bolts in maybe four different topics of his 7000 plus postings and I am accused of picking on him. Do the math: 7000 posting by Srinath and maybe half a dozen replies by me that disagree ????? I think he is doing very well for himself and his knowledge of the GS500 if I have only managed to disagree with him so few times.
Just a note: If I see a post that I feel represents bad info that could damage one's bike or their lives I will post a reply with my 2 cents worth of info and a reason why, just so that ones on this site and others that I visit will have a choice and be better able to decide their course of actions from clip-ons to tire fitment and everything else motorcycle related.
Sorry if I pissed in your Corn Flakes! :)
tkm433
s'ok... sent you a pm, Tod.
didn't mean to upset ya by calling you "the guy" I was just too lazy to scroll down and re-read how your name went. I'm sorry. Let's just keep this stuff out of other peoples threads shall we?
Quote from: tkm433Quote from: cummuterguyQuotewhat irritates me is that THIS WAS SETTLED. He comes into just about any thread you post in, acting like you're trying to make a buck from this.... he doesn't get it... that you AREN'T making money on this. That you're saving US money, because the bolts you use work fine. I have them, I've toyed with them and with the 'correct' size and they are the same. same play when nearly screwed in, and if you hold the threads together NO light shows through
I completely agree. I'm tired of the guy picking on Srinath, when he apparently has researched everything EXCEPT real world application.
While I havent messed with these particular bolts, as an ASE Master Tech, and after 16 years of wrenching, my theory is "if it works, and continues to work without problems, use it"
I am sorry if you feel that I am picking on Srinath every chance that he post but that is not the case. I pointed out that I felt it was wrong for him to use non-metric bolts in carbs that were threaded to use metric no matter how close he felt the fit was to being correct. I think my main issue was that he was working on carbs for other people and was getting paid to do so and he was using the wrong bolts to reassemble the carbs. If he wants to super-glue, duct tape, zip-tie, JB weld his own bike together I have no problem with that since it is his bike but when it comes to a customers set of carbs I feel that he should only use the correct size part and not one that he feels will do the job.
I think he is doing good for the GS500 community in making handle bars, fork braces and just about everything else and just for being there to help those who are in need and anyone who vistits this site knows that but the only real issue that I have had concerns the use of the wrong size bolts since you should know better being a ASE Master Tech that Metric threads and SAE or USS sizes are not interchangeable. I have never seen it in print where a Haynes, Chiltons, Toyota, Isuzu, Yamaha, Suzuki, Honda or any other Tech manual has stated that Metric was interchangeable with SAE or USS sizes and I would bet that none of the manuals that you studied to become an ASE Master Tech stated it either.
As for your comment"I'm tired of the guy( tkm433 or real name Tod) picking on Srinath, when he apparently has researched everything EXCEPT real world application" I guess you are correct in some part in that I have never tried to thread a Non-Metric bolt into a hole that was threaded for a Metric bolt just in hopes that it might fit. Maybe I did when I was a kid and did not know any better but that was almost 30 years ago.
As for real world applications I have been getting paid to turn a wrecnh for the last 25 years with a couple of years in speciality automotive and have done all of the work on my own motorcycles two-stroke and four-stroke and all of my cars and trucks unless I did not have special tools needed for the job.
Some how I mangaed to piss a few off on this site because I questioned Srinath actiions and maybe I had a sound argument or maybe it is just that I dared to question him but for what ever reason I find it funny that I pointed out a simple view about bolts in maybe four differnent topics of his 7000 plus postings and I am accused of picking on him. Do the math: 7000 posting by Srinath and maybe half a dozen replies by me that disagree ????? I think he is doing very well for himself and his knowledge of the GS500 if I have only managed to disagree with him so few times.
Just a note: If I see post that I feel repesent bad info that could damage ones bike or their lives I will post a reply with my 2 cents worth of info and a reason why just so that ones on this site and others that I visit will have a choice and be better able to decide their course of actions from clip-ons to tire fitment and everything else motorcycle related.
Sorry if I pissed in your Corn Flakes! :)
tkm433
You did piss in MY corn flakes.
1) until you've actually TRIED this, then you have NO valid argument.
2) MY problem isn't that you questioned srinath, his methods, or ANYTHING. It's that you walk in on ANY thread he posts in and bring it up. AGAIN.
Anyone who has actually read through your argument will see it DOESN'T hold up. You are arguing what you "think" doesn't work vs. what WORKS, what is time-tested PROVEN to work, etc.
OK TKM ... you missed the point and are also misquoting me.
I didn't say Machine thread bolts belong in a Metric threaded hole. OK please remember and quote what I am saying.
The machine thread stainless Allen head bolts available at Home depot/Lowes are better than the Metric steel allen head bolts available at Home depot/Lowes. Not equal, not identical ... better ... You really need to get off the shelf metric crap and try it. bends, wide variations in thread and dia and rusting etc common ... The SS machine stuff ... far better. Yes I understand You want me to buy 100 lot bolts from a Bolt company ... costs a lot more, I'd have enough to last 3-4 years ... and heck I may never get around to using it up ... real world, practical useage is poor for that option ... and guess what I'll ahve to charge more ... People that want those bolts will send me bolts as I have already asked them in that rejet sticky ... guess what ... I have got no bolts so far ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: seshadri_srinathOK TKM ... you missed the point and are also misquoting me.
I didn't say Machine thread bolts belong in a Metric threaded hole. OK please remember and quote what I am saying.
The machine thread stainless Allen head bolts available at Home depot/Lowes are better than the Metric steel allen head bolts available at Home depot/Lowes. Not equal, not identical ... better ... You really need to get off the shelf metric crap and try it. bends, wide variations in thread and dia and rusting etc common ... The SS machine stuff ... far better. Yes I understand You want me to buy 100 lot bolts from a Bolt company ... costs a lot more, I'd have enough to last 3-4 years ... and heck I may never get around to using it up ... real world, practical useage is poor for that option ... and guess what I'll ahve to charge more ... People that want those bolts will send me bolts as I have already asked them in that rejet sticky ... guess what ... I have got no bolts so far ...
Cool.
Srinath.
TKM lets dumb it down. Take it down to just numbers.
you have a bolt.. sized 2, with tolerances within 10% (actual bolt could be 1.8, or could be 2.2)
Then you have a BETTER quality size 1.98, with tolerances of .5%... that bolt could be anywhere from 1.97 to 1.99
If you NEED an industry "2". Which bolt would you pick? an 'actual' 2 could be too large, enlarging the threads OR could very well be too thin. OR you could get a 1.9 that is a 1 point 9 but is PROVEN to work for your application?
Quote from: cummuterguys'ok... sent you a pm, Tod.
didn't mean to upset ya by calling you "the guy" I was just too lazy to scroll down and re-read how your name went. I'm sorry. Let's just keep this stuff out of other peoples threads shall we?
Sent you a pm and will respect your wishes!
Tod
Quote from: seshadri_srinathOK TKM ... you missed the point and are also misquoting me.
I didn't say Machine thread bolts belong in a Metric threaded hole. OK please remember and quote what I am saying.
The machine thread stainless Allen head bolts available at Home depot/Lowes are better than the Metric steel allen head bolts available at Home depot/Lowes. Not equal, not identical ... better ... You really need to get off the shelf metric crap and try it. bends, wide variations in thread and dia and rusting etc common ... The SS machine stuff ... far better. Yes I understand You want me to buy 100 lot bolts from a Bolt company ... costs a lot more, I'd have enough to last 3-4 years ... and heck I may never get around to using it up ... real world, practical useage is poor for that option ... and guess what I'll ahve to charge more ... People that want those bolts will send me bolts as I have already asked them in that rejet sticky ... guess what ... I have got no bolts so far ...
Cool.
Srinath.
As requested by a friend of yours I sent you a PM so as to not keep this going.
tkm433
What ... I didn't get a PM ... anyway ... yea dont bring up bolts in a Shock thread ... and we're good ... no PM needed ... You can post it in the carb sticky thread ... where its relevant.
Cool.
Srinath.
Now I know that this thred has raised several disagreements but for the fact of it .. the shock fitted just fine..
Now I had to take of a bit of metal from the bottom part, like you do for the GSXR shock, and it fits just fine .....
And guess what, its a lot better than the bandit or the GSXF I would think, because is a lot closer to size to the original shock of the GS and now I don't need to legnthen my sidestand, and feels great its of'course a lot stiffer than the old one, even the bandit one .......
Anyways all is well
Pavlos
How ... How OK 1 sec ...
OK did the shock look like this ...
http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/showschematic~dept_id~218186.asp
That is a 92 CBR 600 shock ... Its eyelet at both ends ... OK maybe in europe it was different ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Hi,
No its actually pre 91, that is actually like ours....
Its pretty old by I found it in a junk yard totally unused, no rust or anything on it ...
Pavlos
I actually have the SAWA product number if is any help ..
Pavlos
Its this then ...
http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/showschematic~dept_id~173808.asp
Cool ... great job finding another option ... That should fit cos its eyelet, clevise ... Like I said ... if it fits ... worth runing round the block to see what it feels like ...
Cool.
Srinath
Srinath...the Hurricane shock is eye....clevis
F2-up are eye.....eye
Tod....you make fun of trying to install Honda parts on a Suzuki....
what suspension do you have on your Yamaha??? :? :? :? :? :?
Question Srinath as much as you want......
John hasn't stepped in and threatened you to leave him alone.
the only person kicked off that i remember....temp.... was JABBA for his goat fuc*ing picture.
I always question Srinath
he kept telling me his 47,000 mile GS was slap wore out....
and I ran some tests on it and it was in decent shape... it leaked buckets of oil but ran good
compression was still 150-160 range
I question why he even wastes his time making parts for cheap bastards with cheap bikes... it is not for the profit....
i still haven't figured why he does it.
Quote from: werase643Srinath...the Hurricane shock is eye....clevis
F2-up are eye.....eye
Tod....you make fun of trying to install Honda parts on a Suzuki....
what suspension do you have on your Yamaha??? :? :? :? :? :?
I guess I am busted but my main point on the Honda CBR600 shock is that the spring rate is going to be way off for a proper fit on the GS500. Also the Katana and GSXR rear shocks do not require new bushing to fit the GS500. The main problem that one runs into to a change in ride heigth. If one can find the linkage from a 89 GS500 it will allow for a Katana shock to fit with with very little change in the ride height.
Lets see on my RZ it has a R6 rear shock adapted to a FZ600 swinagarm which was modified to fit the frame which uses a highly modified CBR600F2 rear wheel and for the front the bike has a NSR250 MC21 fork adapted to fit and a CBR600F2 front wheel. The front brakes use a GSXR750 master cylinder with the four piston NSR250 calipers with stainless steel brake lines from a CBR600F4 if I recall?! The Bike uses a Kawasaski clutch lever with a GS500 clutch cable. The cooling fan for the radiator is from TL or SV1000 and the list keeps going so yes I make or modify stuff to fit but in the case of suspension if you check the stock R6 spring rate and the stock RZ350 spring rate you will notice they are very close and since I am at 190lbs myself a little stiffer spring might work better.
OK Your RZ ... is the equivalent of alphabet soup ... in 13 different non english script based languages ... :lol: :lol: :lol:
The GS parts ... when I make the first iteration ... usually I waste so much trying different things and seeing what works etc ... I make a small loss ... the second version onwards ... happy to say I clean up the process to take away a small profit ... Lucky for me I have a decent scrap yard in town, and I have some decent people doing the menial labor ... who I am happy to pay for the work they do and the use of their equipment and shop ... ergo ... I want to help both sides by keeping them working in the lean times ... and parts for the guys in the site ...
Cool.
Srinath.