I have a Motocomm Audioboss that I use when I ride. It runs on 2 AA batteries and I would like to power it from the bike. Since you are THE MAN (tm) when it comes to this stuff, I was wondering if you can help me out.
Next question is how much can the bike power? I am asking because I am thinking of taking a trip and would love to power my Ipod and cell phone from the bike too. Ipod has a cigarrett lighter attachment and the cell phone does as well. The perfect way would be to get a USB and a firewire port on the bike since the Ipod charges through Firewire and my phone charges off a usb port.
Any ideas?
John Bates or starwalt may be THE MEN (tm) if you truly want to run the AudioBoss directly from the bike. For my AA- and AAA-powered items I bring along a charger that plugs into the cigarette lighter.
If you want to have two cigarette lighter-powered items hooked up at the same time, I have seen Y-splitters in various stores for just a few bucks. But in my experience, as long as I remember to use my fuel stops efficiently (to switch things around) I can do all of the charging I need one item at a time.
As far as how much stuff the bike can handle: It can power heated handgrips and/or a heated riding suit, so it's got plenty of power for little electronic stuff.
So am I dreaming when I envision an adapter with a Firewire port, an USB port and an AA adapter?
That would be perfect!
Quote from: ConanLloydSo am I dreaming when I envision an adapter with a Firewire port, an USB port and an AA adapter?
What exactly would you do with the data ports? What would they be hooked up to?
When you say "AA adapter" are you talking about the DC plug at the end of a charger?
The USB and Firewire are solely to provide power. My blackberry 7100t takes it's power through USB and the Ipod works from a firewire port. So they are just there to charge the items.
The "AA" adapter is supposed to be an adapter to provide the power normally provided by the 2 "AA" batteries the Audioboss runs on. I want to run it from the bike instead of the batteries.
Sorry I wasn't clear before. I just want some help making my bike power all 3 of these items.
or you can connect it strait to the battery if you connect a resistor to it
V=IR, be careful of your prefixes
I guess at this point "we" need some more requirements info:
* Which variety of USB and FireWire and DC connectors are needed to interface with your devices? Can you take pictures, or find samples online? Do you happen to know the actual voltage & amperage requirements for the USB and FireWire connections?
* I assume you are looking for an all-in-one unit? A single housing for all 3 connectors? Do you have some approximate dimensions in mind?
* What are your requirements for location & convenience? Under the seat? On the handlebars? In a tank bag? Detachable from the bike or permanently mounted? Quick-disconnect required?
* How weatherproof does it need to be?
* How easy / foolproof must the installation procedure be?
* Any "fit and finish" requirements? Construction material? Paint?[/list:u]
Quote from: goat... and the Geek shall inherit the earth.
Yeah, I'm still waiting though. --Geek
OK, here goes...
Ipod -
From the Apple site:
Power adapter
* 6-pin FireWire connector
* AC input: 100V to 240V at 0.4 amp maximum
* Frequency: 50Hz to 60Hz
* DC output: 12V at 1 amp maximum
Blackberry 7100t -
This image has the power specs on it.
(http://thelloyds.matrixdancer.com/images/cladapter.jpg)
Motocomm Audioboss runs on 2 "AA" batteries and does not have an adapter, so one whould have to be fabricated for it.
As far as what I would like, I am looking for a smalling box that would have the firewire and usb ports in it as well as whatever connection we created for the Audioboss. A cord runs from it to the bike that can be disconencted at the "box". The box would sit with my Ipod , phone and Audioboss in my tank bag so it would not have to be waterproof or even that "pretty"
I am an IT tech, so it doesn't have to be too foolproof.
I wonder if this guy (http://www.accessoryworkshop.com/products/mixer.htm) could be talked into making a one-off for you? He seems to have the right equipment and experience.
But I'll bet a one-off isn't going to be cheap.... :(
Quote from: John BatesMotocomm runs on 3V via mini phone jack?
Unless I miss my guess, it's worse than that. I haven't been able to find a picture of the backside of the MotoComm unit on the Web, but I'm betting it's a straight open-the-battery-door-and-put-two-batteries-in type of setup ... with no allowance for an adaptor. (Am I wrong
ConanLloyd?)
Quote from: John BatesCan be done but expensive.
I have no idea who would do it.
JeffD probably has the right equipment and experience as well, but it has been (understandably) labor-intensive for him to even do incremental improvements on his own LED brake light and turn signal units. From remembered feedback from
JeffD, as well my general impression of R&D work in general, the first unit off the assembly line is by far the most expensive. And this particular item is so special-purpose that there's probably no prospect of selling more than 3.... :dunno:
You'll either have to buckle down and learn some (semi-basic?) electronics design, or buttonhole a local friend who would tackle the project just for the challenge, or shell out some serious money. The main risk with the first two options is, well, frying your electronic device(s) during testing.... :x
Sorry if I got your hopes up.
You're right about the batter door on the Audioboss..
I have lighter adapters for both the phone and the Ipod, so I think I'm going to try wiring them into an enclosure to solve that problem. That will be the easy part since all the electronics are already there.
The Audioboss is the hard part. Anyone have any suggestions on how to wire the battery compartment to the bike?
I would suggest bastardizing this Radio Shack part (http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F009%5F001%5F002%5F004&product%5Fid=273%2D1811) or this cheaper dc/dc converrter (http://www.powerstream.com/dc-dc.htm) for your AudioBoss. Parts are more expensive than making your own, but you don't have to design the power parts so it'll be easier.
As far as getting things into the battery compartment of the AudioBoss, the first thing that I think of is to make some sort of plastic battery-shaped slugs and attach metal contacts to the ends so that you can just put them in when you want to use the bike's power. I would be nervous about using dead batteries because it adds another place for power to go, and could possibly explode in your pocket (not likely, but still possible. especially with the disposable batteries).
You could also get something like this (http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?Ref=178922&Row=244436&Site=US) and solder leads to the battery contacts. You wouldn't have to make any sort of battery mock-up but you run into the problem of durability since you would have wires hanging off of your radio.
I hope that this helps some.
Quoteor you can connect it strait to the battery if you connect a resistor to it V=IR, be careful of your prefixes
Bad idea if this item requires anything other than 12 volts!
Now the "why" it is a bad idea. The resistor would only control the amount of current going to the device. He would have to use a voltage divider circuit to make the "AA" voltage requirement.
I won't go into the (simple) math for the voltage divider because it is the wrong way to do this project.
None of these gadgets need more than 1 amp to make them operate. Does the audioboss have any external power input? I've read over this discussion and have not determined that (or I missed it).
The best way to do this is to install a (fused) 12V socket similar to what Kerry has done and then buy/make the adapter to feed the gadget. After you obtain the voltage/current requirement you need, everything else is just connectors.
Easy to say eh? You can get the firewire, USB, digi-whatever connectors via DigiKey. They cater to the hobby industry. Jameco may also have what you need. You could also just hack up an "extra" cable and get the pin out specs via the net.
Other than the connectors, I probably have everything you need to do this project. Don't screw with hacking up battery contacts, etc. You would probably null and void any warranty on your gadget (like it has stopped me from voiding other warranties... :roll: )
Sorry to have been away from the boards. My Electrical Network Analysis take home test has been a time sink in addition to my Applied Technology Math take home test.
I would love to help. It would be fun. :)
Ok. I have poured over the few webpages and posted literature for this Audio Boss gadget. Seems like a great solution for audio and helmet related motor vehicles. (I will keep it in mind after I get my GS on the road. Been looking for a reason to put ham radio gear in something else. :lol: )
I can find no reference to an external power adapter. Conan, if you have some paperwork on this thing, look for that connection for me. With more audio interfaces than a gym full of Greatful Dead fans, you would think they would have put one on it.
Quote from: starwaltDoes the audioboss have any external power input? I've read over this discussion and have not determined that (or I missed it).
Here you go, Walt:
Quote from: KerryI haven't been able to find a picture of the backside of the MotoComm unit on the Web, but I'm betting it's a straight open-the-battery-door-and-put-two-batteries-in type of setup ... with no allowance for an adaptor. (Am I wrong ConanLloyd?)
Quote from: ConanLloydYou're right about the batter door on the Audioboss. [...] Anyone have any suggestions on how to wire the battery compartment to the bike?
As for you
ConanLloyd, remember when I said this?
Quote from: KerryYou'll either have to buckle down and learn some (semi-basic?) electronics design, or buttonhole a local friend who would tackle the project just for the challenge, or shell out some serious money.
Well, it looks like you've found the friend! :thumb: He just doesn't happen to be local. :roll:
Quote from: starwaltI would love to help. It would be fun. :)
Sorry, I was away.
Kerry as always you rock for stepping and answering questons.
Starwalt.\, I have the var chargers for the phone and the Ipod that I would be happy to send to you to get a consolidated unit. There is no such item for the Audioboss.
By the way, I love it since the wife knows she can reach me whenever, so she doesn't worry.
Quote from: starwalt.........
I would love to help. It would be fun. :)
Way to go, Walt :thumb:
This is too simple. :-) you guys are thinking too hard. :cheers:
Keep it simple.
Ok all you need is the nominal specs for a firewire cable, usb cable, and then 3vDc for the headset.
3 LM317 regulators hooked up to the bike and spliced into the usb/firewire cable is all that is needed. So you also need to chop apart a firewire connector and a usb connector to get the "connection" to your devices.
I think with some finess it could be built on perf board for under $30 (if you do it). If you really want me to build one Let me know and I'll see what I can do. But like whats been said it would be almost twice as much.
I'll look up some stuff. :thumb:
edit*
This sheet has the pinouts for the USB and Firewire Connectors
http://www.networktechinc.com/technote.html
JeffD wrote
QuoteThis is too simple. :-) you guys are thinking too hard.
Keep it simple.
For you, me, and a few others it is. 8)
Between my written lines are your thoughts exactly.
The gadgets that take external power are no sweat. Firewire, blowtorch, nuclear fusion, etc. :lol:
It is the Motocomm box that is designed to be portable and audio flexible,
not power flexible, that is the center of his needs.
Conan, does the battery door cover both batteries or just one. If both, we could try to find a donor cover and build the battery eliminator contacts into the door. This way no warranty issue comes into play and if you decide to sell it off, no hacking involved for the new owner to see.
You guys just would not believe the stuff I see with missing battery covers. Somewhere on this planet, or another dimension, is a landscape covered in battery covers. Hmmm...that would make an interesting piece of art or CGI art. :roll:
You're right on target Starwalt. I upgrade, fix and build PC's but i am a complete dunce when it comes to a soldering iron.
Here's the battery door:
(http://thelloyds.matrixdancer.com/images/100_0341.JPG)
and
(http://thelloyds.matrixdancer.com/images/100_0342.JPG)
I'm not worried about resale, so I could send you the battery door if you wanted to be nice and hook me up.
Well what abou this.
2 dowl rods the same size as a AA battery. Wire the 3v needed on the dowls. Push the Dowl rods into the battery tray to make the connections. Then you'd just have the 2 wires coming out of the battery tray, and I hope it can bend enough for 2 ~20gauge wires. If not, a small hole drilled to fit the wires.
Pictures! Hurray! :thumb:
I remember some configurable electric cars that had dummy AA cells that acted as jumpers for the battery holder in the car. Dowels with sufficient contact would work as well.
Or, for that matter, an appropriate size perf board or fiberglass board with the battery contacts required. Usually one end of the battery box is just a jumper to series the batteries. The other end of the board would have the needed battery connections. A wire soldered and attached to the board would exit to the appropriate power source.
This way any connector would do. I like the coaxial DC connectors over uses of audio connectors (some designs actually allow a momentary short of the power supply prior to complete insertion :o ) In this senario, Conan simply drops the board into his compartment, routes the cable and snaps on his cover.
Since Conan isn't going to worry about some modifications, a simple notch cut in the edge of the cover would do for the cable to exit and still maintain the integrity of the cover.
I've got to travel today for work and have my math class tonight. Keep the faith Conan. A solution is brewing. I will dig around in one of my many storage boxes. Between Jared and I, this will get done.
Is this what product marketing committes have to deal with?
Ok Conan, here's the idea so far:
(http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/41/41309/folders/192593/1447790modulemockup3.jpg)
Wire carrying the 12VDC from another connector on the "junction/conversion box" housing Firewire and USB connectors would be on this module. The module would convert the 12 to 3VDC. The module would snap into the ABoss using built in connectors.
I call this a 1 3/4 AA module because the spring common to the dummy positive end would be in the way of installing the module. Just take the module and insert it double end first into the correct end of the ABoss. If installed in the incorrect end, you short the module out. Maybe I will incorporate an LED to let you know if installed correctly.
Most of the low voltage regulators have short circuit protection. I plan to build the prototype circuit and cast it to shape in clear resin. The LED would be embedded to allow you to see its cool glow. 8)
Wow, talk about exceeding expectations!
you rock!
I've been busy today catching up on math homework and spending some time with the Audioboss adapter. I had several LM317T in my regulator drawer. Here's the result of testing the output with a load. The load is a horrible electronic audio toy someone gave one of the kids 15 years ago. It plays synthesized versions of children's songs and flashes an LED. The best thing is it uses 3 volts. The meter is displaying the output voltage while the toy is running. No load was 2.9VDC.
(http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/41/41309/folders/188899/1449910loadtest2.jpg)
I measured the load current both DC and AC. It never went above 350 milliamps and the speaker has no volume control. It blasts horrible partially out of tune electronic music as long a the button is pressed.
My only concern was the warmth of the LM317. Although not horribly hot, it will warm depending on the load placed on it and the differential it must regulate. Some heatsink integrated into the 1 3/4 AA module may be needed. The source voltage was over 13 VDC.
I will be in Cleveland for several days this week and probably won't get to this until sometime next week. GStwin will be accessed though.
Yeah I had the same problem with one of my projects in school. The LM317 can handle 1.5A out so it can drive just about anything you throw at it. However regulating more than 10v can get it pretty warm.
An aside. I was regulating 34v down to 12 and it wouldn't push above .75A, and it was heating up fast.
Lets see how much power you were cooking with.
13v supply
3v out
.350A
so you were dropping 10v*0.35 so 3.5 watts.
Using the equations off of www.digikey.com the LM317 TO-220 can handle 5 watts. So you are below that. Why not use a 3v zener off of the 5 v supply? it will lower the power consumption and also reduce parts. Of course this would limit the audioboss current but if we knew that it would be easier.
Quote from: JeffD..Why not use a 3v zener off of the 5 v supply? it will lower the power consumption and also reduce parts...
I had considered that as the next alternative if the 317 method proved uncooperative.
After tweaking the R1,R2 combination to give just over 3 volts, I left the entire setup running on my bench with an old GS battery while I went to Cleveland for 4 days. With the noisemaker as the load in quiet mode, the output is still steady after 4 days.
Next will be making a constant 350 mA load and see if it melts down with no extra heatsink. If it dies, I will integrate a heatsink into the drop in module.