the top steering stem race is pitted and a bit rusty. is there a way to repair this? i cannot find the race listed as a part on any parts fiche site. only the top one is worn, do they need to be replaced as a set or can i just do the top? can the layman perform a replacement, provided the races are available? thanks
dane
replace as a set
or
light sand it and clean old grease out and grease the crap out of it
do the bottom one also
if the steering feels notchy...turn...stick...turn...stick REPLACE
:cheers:
Sorry - I'm not sure which part you're asking about. Is it not shown on this RonAyers page (http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_0284/steering_stem/steering_stem.cfm?man=su&groupid=3190&parent=3070)?
it's basically a tapered insert in the shaft of the steering head, on the frame, that the bearings for the steering stem aka triple clamp ride on.
i can't find it in the parts fiche anywhere. it appears replacable, but i would think is probably on the order of bearing replacement difficulty, with same likelyhood of damage to parts if installed or removed incorrectly as with bearings.
has anyone ever done this, and if so, would they be available from suzuki, or would a bearing supply firm be required to find an equivelent?
i think i'll try sanding it a bit, but the turn...stick...turn...stick thing is a great description for what it does, despite the obvious rust and pitting. i would not be overly concerned normally, but i just replaced the bearings for the stem, and it's more than likely they will be damaged on the race as it is now.
Ive got a bearing and race that ill sell you. I messed up my bottom bearing trying to put it on my stearing steem so I had to order another kit so I have a spare upper bearing and race. PM me or post on here if your interested.
To my understanding, the races are supposed to press into the steering head, top and bottom.
Part 8 on that fiche is the bearing, but it looks like it has an outer race built in??? I'd need to see the assembely first hand. The only bike I've ever done any steering-head work on was a GSX-R 600... :dunno: :dunno:
you are absolutely right. the races come with the bearings, that's why i couldn't find them. thanks for pointing that out, when i went back to the fiche site, it was obvious in the diagram that the bearing was shown in teh exploded view with the race around it.
sprint, PM is sent..
w00t, I was helpful!
alot easier than them damn swingarm brgs....
Any how too`s,infor on it :thumb:
:cheers: Tony
drift out old race and hammer in new race....
this is not ROCKET SCIENCE :?
:P
i guess asking for input is not so much about intelligence required to perform the work, but related to the reported ease of damaging these types of parts on the installation. i have the clymer manual like the next guy, but the step by steps can be very deceiving, as there is rarely a repair that goes perfectly, particularly when one has never performed it before. trying to get a little more info than the manual provides is a good idea in my mind, even for what someone else may consider a simple task. these parts aren't too expensive alone, but buying them twice is.
Just sent you a PM.
I do feel qualified to answer this question as I fit bearings everyday for a living as part of my job
First rule. DONT hit them, this is not the same as dont use force. Swing arm bearings and headrace outer bearings should be drawn into position using a length of threaded rod nuts and washers and plates larger than the outside diameter of the bearing and with a clearence hole through the center for the threaded rod. Lightly tap the bearings into the housings at each end giving them a start and making sure they have entered the housings squarely. Feed the threaded rod centraly through the bearings, place the plates on each end of the threaded rod, then screw on the nuts and washers. tighten the nuts with a spanner and the bearings will draw into position in the housings. The action of turning the spanner generates enough force to overcome the interference fit of the bearing outer race and force/push them into position in the housing. Filing the edge of the housing to give a slight radius will help. The best way to fit headrace inner races is to heat them to 90 deg using a industrial bearing induction-heater, they heat, they expand, and drop onto the journals. OK so you dont have access to a heater. Go in your kitchen put the inner races on a baking tray, 15 mins at 100 deg in your oven and they will drop into position with no problem. Sounds rough but it works. PS use a pair of gloves!!!
Tony??? Think I sold you the swingarm...Rgds mate
I should add that failure of the headrace/swingarm bearings is almost always due to water ingress. It causes rust to form on the polished races which in turn leads to pitting and roughness. The same bearings in industrial applications such as electric motors and pumps can run at up to 3000rpm for years assuming perfect conditions and regular lubrication. Needless to say I NEVER jetwash my GS.
the logical reversal of this is cooling outer races in the freezer to ease installation, but i was told that the average kitchen freezer doesnt get cold enough to make this work, or that the metal expands much more than it contracts, or some such crap. we all know metal is a liquid, and will gladly conform to whichever dammed place we cram it, so this is strictly hypothetical of course, but , for real, any ideas?
ok... what about a hair dryer...to heat up the frame
:thumb: sledge,the drawbolt worked easy :) on the swingarm bearings installation.Thanks........
and yes i did buy the swingarm off you mate :thumb: Going to replace the steering head bearings soon....
:cheers: Tony....
Tony,
Tips for fitting headrace bearings. The old outers can be drifted out of the housings using anything suitable but keep them square on the way out to avoid damaging the housings. Replacement outer races will fit into position using the drawbar method. File a slight radius on the edge of the housings to give them a start and make sure they go in the correct way as they are tapered. I.E. with the larger diameter to the bottom of the housing. A few hours in the freezer will help as they will shrink slightly. I doubt the inner races will be very tight on the headstock shaft. The upper one should be a slide fit. You will probably be able to lever the bottom one off with a couple of screwdrivers. If it is tight get back to me and I will give you some suggestions how to remove it but DONT try to butcher it off as that will make things worse. If it comes to it you can post it up to me and I will remove it for you as I have all the equipment needed. The replacement bottom inner will just drop on if you heat it in the oven at 100 degs max for 10-15 mins but again get it the correct way up. The top one should be a slide fit. Use as much good quality grease on the new bearings as you can pack in and dont overtighten the locking nut on assembly. When you get the bearings off look in the yellow pages for a local bearing supplier take it to them as a sample, and do a deal!! Dont pay the daft Suzuki OE prices.
Get back to me if you have any Q`s.
Rgds