GStwin.com GS500 Message Forum

I recently resurected my 2000 gs500e from storage. i cleaned out the carb and reinstalled.

before I cleaned it it would start, but die if i tried to give it gas.

Now it will rev up real good after warmup, but wont throttle down. The butterflys are closing, beacuse i check to see taht they were. What is causing this ???

Any help is appriciated.

Quote from: vfrocketI recently resurected my 2000 gs500e from storage. i cleaned out the carb and reinstalled.

before I cleaned it it would start, but die if i tried to give it gas.

Now it will rev up real good after warmup, but wont throttle down. The butterflys are closing, beacuse i check to see taht they were. What is causing this ???

Any help is appriciated.

By "won't throttle down" I assume that you mean it idles at something like 3000~4000 RMP - vacum leak, stuck choke, throttle cable hanging up, or the idle adjustment screw are the first thoughts that come to mind.

Check your float levels.

wont throttle down i mean  you twist the throttle and it revs right up, but when you let go of the throttle it continues to run fast, if not faster.

Quote from: vfrocketwont throttle down i mean  you twist the throttle and it revs right up, but when you let go of the throttle it continues to run fast, if not faster.

Is the cable hanging up and preventing the butterfly valves from closing quickly/completely?

If not, you may have left out the very small o-rings at the top of one or both carbs when you re-assembled them

Yup ... sucking air ... you lose an o ring or 2 from the tops of the carbs ... and you running with no airbox ... that is a huge source of vacuum loss ...
Cool.
Srinath.

you talking about the little o-ring on top of the carb by the diaphrams??

Just bought 2 today, will replace tomorrow. I'll let you know what happens.

Thanks.

Good call, the o-rings were missing. however, this did not solve my problems. now it is running real rich, and the idle adjustment screw seems to hace no effect.

I am breaking it down again, and will clean and replace other o-rings.

I just dont understand this. This carb is not real complicated.

My GS is a 2000. I have not been able to lacate a "idle air/fuel mix screw anywhere on this carb. any help would be appriciated.

Quote from: vfrocketMy GS is a 2000. I have not been able to lacate a "idle air/fuel mix screw anywhere on this carb. any help would be appriciated.

On U.S. bikes you have to drill out the brass cap to gain access to the air/fuel mixture screw.

You running rich ... I dont believe so ... but post symptoms anyway ... More than likely you are lean ... as usual ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Ok, I see. thanks for the Pic...

Do you think I should mess with thoes??? What I mean is take them out, clean them, and put new o-rings on them?

This motorcycle has been sitting in storage for about 3 years now.

Symptoms...

idle at about  1500, rough, and black smoke comming out exhaust.

will not run past 2000rpm now.

so far... took carb off, cleaned and blew out all passages with air. Replaced o-rings, replaced pilot jets (Destroyed removing). replaced Diaphrams.

The carb is back off the bike now, and I am waiting for new o-rings for the floats. then I will reassable and see what happens.

Do I need to pull out the fuel/air mix screws and replace o-rings on thoes as well?? If I do the factory setting I believe is 3.5 turns back from bottom out.

Thanks for all the help.

O-rings for floats?  I think srinath was talking about the o-rings on the diaphraghm...the ones under the rubber nipple with the clamp on it.  Very easy to lose upon disassembly if you aren't looking for them.   There aren't really o-rings for the floats specifically unless you are talking about the needle and seat o-ring or the other one that is on the float like when you press it back onto the carb but that one shouldn't be bad yet.  What o-rings did you order?

i follow you, I replaced the little o-rings by the diaphram... i just figured while I had it broken down that i may as well replace any o-rings in the carb.

Fouled plugs and/or bad spark. Check and clean all of the connections in the wire harness.

OK pilots ... you swapped with the stock size ...Should've put 40's non bleed in there instead of the 37.5 ...
The float o rings are usually OK ... Does it leak ... if not they are fine. The air screws are under that brass cap kerry showed you, no need to remove and replace o rings there ... but carefully take out the cap and set them to 3 turns out. Also 125 mains for a stock bike 1 size up from 122.5, and 1 #4 washer under each needle - its available at lowes ...
Finally your problem ... check for floats being stuck open ... You are rich, but I am nearly certain you have high float ... use U tube method before doing anything and see how much the level is ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Alrighty.... progress!!!

o-rings on floats bad - replaced.

Float level, way too high,  - adjusted.

cleaned air/fuel mix screw replaced o-ring. re -installed 2.5 turns as per Suzuki tech.

Then i fired her up. same story... would not idle above 1500.
white smoke coming from tail pipe, so i felt the cyliders to see if they were hot. one was, one on the right was stone cold. - pulled the plug and it was fouled, cleaned plug re-installed.

Vroom!!! she fired right up. after warm up on choke, she ran good.

Problem though, now it idles at 4000 rpm.  I will let her cool off and check the throttle cable i believe it is too tight and holding the butterfly open.

I think I am nearing the finish line!!! :)

Thanks for your help. I will let you know if throttle cable adjustment fixes fast idle problem.

OK if throttle was binding ... it will idle at 4K hot or cold ... you might be just a shade lean, If you have 37.5 pilots .. your mix screws should be 3.5 or so ... 2.5 is lean ... too lean ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Ok... I am abut to take this to the dealer and get raked over the coals...

it ran good... then I let it cool down adjusted the throttle cable, and now were back to the same crap.

idles at 1050 rough... checked the plugs again, they were both fouled with black soot. (too rich???)

even when warm.. once you get on the throttle it dies.

i dont understand this, one minute it runs like it should, the next crap.

I am about to throw in the towel... I may be in over my head.

OK send it to me ... I'll fix it ... rejet and trouble shooting $40 and return shipping ... and Dont worry ... I usually dont have any problems spotting what might be wrong ... Its not a rebuild ... Just a clean and rejet ... but you just swapped every O-ring it has ... we should be cool ...  Read the Top of the for sale section for more details/disclaimers ... but I doubt any of that is going to apply to your carbs ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Quote from: vfrocketidles at 1050 rough... checked the plugs again, they were both fouled with black soot. (too rich???)

I agree with dgyver:

Quote from: dgyverFouled plugs and/or bad spark. Check and clean all of the connections in the wire harness.

The sooty plugs and the weird behavior sound like what I observed when I had a corroded connector to one of the signal generator circuits.  (My bike was running on one cylinder.)

This post could be your gateway to some needed electrical troubleshooting.

I am beginning to doubt its my carbs....

could these symptoms be caused by anything else??

I notice when it is idling that I can see the gas flowing through the see-through filter I installed, (bubbles), but when the engine speeds up it fills the tube completely.. perhaps the petcock filter is clogged?? Just guessing.

I mean these carbs are not hard, and I have done everything to them, and it will run fine, and then poof it all goes to SH@% once I start the bike again.  

there is only one vacuum line, I checked it It seemed to be fine, no leaks..

i feel frustrated.

Quote from: vfrocketI am beginning to doubt its my carbs....

could these symptoms be caused by anything else??
[...]
i feel frustrated.

I hear ya!  My bike was down for 5 months while I swapped carbs, coils, etc. from my other GS.  It wasn't until I went through the electrical troubleshooting (see my previous post) that I found the single corroded connector that was the cause of it all.  Reading through 2 pages of posts has got to be worth your time at this point.

OK... now that I am done pouting.... I read some of the other threads and discovered that I had installed something wrong which could explain my supposidly rich problems.

the needle that sits in the slider is supposed to have a plastic space installed above the pin so that the spring can hold the needle down. WELL, I istalled it by putting the needle through it, instead of on top. According to other posts this keeps the spring in the diaphram from holding down the needle, thus the needle will rise on its own, and allow gas to flow through the needle jets when it should not.

I am letting the bike cool down again, so that I can remove the gas tank again, and access the top of the diaprham slides.

I will report in and let you know if this resolves the problem.

keep your fingers crossed.

Hopefully that's it.

Good luck!   :thumb:

ok now shes back!!! funny how a 50 cent piece can ground the space shuttle.

I think it still needs some tweaking.

I set the air/fuel mix to 3.5 turns as recommended. and adjusted the idle to 1800 rpm...purs like a kitten.

However.... .... it throttles up great, but it is still slow to come down from high revs, and likes to hang out at about 4000 rpm. not sure what is causing this, there still may be some passage that is blocked and I missed it. I may try the old couple bottles of gumout in a tank trick and see if that helps.

any suggestions???

Anyway... thank you all so very much. this is the first time I have tried to repair my motorcycle and I think i can call it a success once I get it adjusted just right, and it would not have been possible without everyones help... Thanks to all.

Paul

Quote from: vfrocketit is still slow to come down from high revs, and likes to hang out at about 4000 rpm.

Sounds like it's lean (too much air in the mix).  You could keep fiddling with the screws I suppose, but also check to make sure that the carbs are seated well in the intake boots that connect them to the engine.

Recycled pic.  The idea is to see if introducing a volatile substance in this area causes the bike to rev up.  If so, there is a bad seal somewhere, and extra air is leaking in and leaning out the mixture.

just spray it while its running???

dont want to start a fire.

plausable, I had thought of that. this bike sat up in storage for almost 3 years so it is entirely possible that the boots have a crack in them somewhere.

WD40 will burn if you spray it into a candle or lighter ... but around a hot motor ... no ... I constantly spray carbs and rubber parts with wd or silicone ... Try it and see if idle races or the exhaut smokes ... BTW I'll bet you aren't sucking air ... you are about 1/2 turn out on mix screw ... I mean turn it out 1/2 turn or less ... Your 37.5 pilots ... Mine wont even idle with under 5 turns out when it had 37.5 ...
OK and retainer under needle ... would have made it sooooooo rich ... like lifting the needle 1/4 inch ... instead of the 1mm we do raise it with a #4 ...
Cool.
Srinath.

so i should adjust them out to 4 turns?

That did it!!!!!!!!

Thank you so much, she is running better than ever now.

Now to get some insurance, and a tag, and take her for a ride!


THANK YOU!!!!!!!