GStwin.com GS500 Message Forum

Hey everyone. Site is the rock; it's already helped me with my GS, which is easily the best starter bike around.

My problem is this:
The 1994 GS500 I have tipped after I was finished fixing the clutch lever (broke from tipping as well). The bike tipped to the RIGHT. No handlebar bending, no tank damage, none of that -- only now, the bike won't even sputter. I hit the start button, and I get absolutely zero.

I don't think the carbs are flooded or the spark plugs soaked for this very reason. My guess -- and considering my mechanical prowess, it is a guess -- is that some wires went "haywire" in the right-hand instrument cluster.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what else it might be? Any suggestions (technical or otherwise) would be very much appreciated.

So the starter isn't kicking in when you hit the start button? Are you getting lights, horn etc? Gotta love the little 500, this forum too.

C.......

check all the wires to see if any got crimped, cut, or damaged

Yeah, I'm getting zero. The lights and everything work perfectly though; I had to take the battery out to clean it up, and I made sure to reattach it properly.

Sorry to hear about your problems. Does your bike still have the center stand? If so, I recommended it for service work. Regardless, I can think of nothing in the instrument cluster that could cause this. If you mean the handle bar switches then that could be an issue.

As the previous response asks, are the lights, horn, turn signals working? Exactly what do you mean by "nothing"?

There is a 20Amp fuse on your bike, probably near the battery on your year GS. You will have to remove the seat to find it and check it. There may also be a spare tucked away.  The spare will be out in the open whereas the used fuse will be covered. You should be able to look at the fuses and compare.

We need more information to help you better. I have a 90 GS so things are a little different.

Is this the GS that was on craigslist just a few days ago?

Quote from: doshii.....................
Does anyone have any ideas as to what else it might be? Any suggestions (technical or otherwise) would be very much appreciated.

If you are new to the GS :dunno: then you may not be aware of the safety interlocking start ckt.

1. With the bike on the side stand the tranny must be in neutral.
2. The clutch lever must be pulled in.
3. Engine kill switch must be in "run" position.
4. Ignition "on".
5. Hit start button.

:cheers:

Quote from: starwaltSorry to hear about your problems. Does your bike still have the center stand? If so, I recommended it for service work. Regardless, I can think of nothing in the instrument cluster that could cause this. If you mean the handle bar switches then that could be an issue.

The right side switchgear has the kill switch. Check the kill switch internals to make sure a wire didnt come loose in there. That might have something to do with it.

also check the clutch safety switch...it's under the clutch lever. it could be that the switch is not making contact when you pull in the clutch (after the drop & replacement).

OK I'll guess ...
Your start button isn't making contact ... mine is so worn its like every 2-3 years I have to take it out and put a dot of lead solder on it ...
BTW You might want to get some case guards ...  :lol:  ... making them soon ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Whole host of replies. You guys are really too kind!

1. I checked the fuse; it's good.
2. No, it wasn't on Craiglist . . . I just bought it, and I want to ride it. I'm a newbie rider, MSF-certed.
3. I do know the start sequence; I rode it for a few weeks before I broke it.
4. I went back and checked those wires (took me some time, though). They all looked good . . .
5. Checked starter button as best I could . . . not worn . . .

Dammit. Dammit dammit dammit dammit!

When the bike first tipped, I had to replace the lever, and I remember that little switch flippy thing and wondered what the hell it was for. Dammit! That's it, I'm sure of it! *grumble*

Now I just have to figure out how to fix it. Here's hoping my Clymer manual helps me out.

You guys are far too kind to a newbie such as me. I cannot thank you enough.

You can bypass the safety switches by connecting the 2 wires from the switch together. If you don't want to cut them off the switch and twist them together.
You can use a needle to poke through the wires to temporarily connect them.

Questions:

1) Put the bike in Neutral and see if it will start with the clutch lever OUT.  If so, you may have mounted the switch backwards.

2) I'm assuming your clutch switch looks like the photo below.  Am I right?  (The earliest model years apparently didn't have this switch - I'm not sure when it was added.)  All the switch does is "join" the two wires together to close the safety circuit.  If the switch is actually broken or missing - rather than installed backwards - you can try pushing the connectors over both ends of a paper clip and taping them in place.  Just be aware that your bike will then start regardless of the clutch lever position.[/list:u]

(http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_1230_ClutchEngagementSwitch.jpg)

If I/we got it wrong, let me/us know!

Hey...a little closer and that pic of the handlebar underside could be in the mystery picture thread..."What part of the GS is this?" :lol:

Not a bad idea....  :roll:

After rereading your post (and Kerry's 1st) I don't recall you saying that the bike ever ran after replacing the switch.

(http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/41/41309/folders/179575/1445403ClutchSw1a.jpg)

This is from a 1990. In Kerry's photo, it looks like the connection has changed to push on lugs attaching to the fixed contact. Here they are integrated into the contact mount. My moving contact was broken originally. The wires from the harness, in the headlight, were jumpered. I have replaced the moving contact and am in the process of building the handlebar up.

If he reversed the contacts, would the bike start with the clutch out in the normal sequence?

Quote from: starwaltIf he reversed the contacts, would the bike start with the clutch out in the normal sequence?

Yeah, if you mount the contact plate thingie backwards then the wires will be jumpered / connected when the lever is OUT instead of pulled IN.  Which is why you definitely want to be in NEUTRAL when you test this.

See the old Bike won't start with clutch lever pulled in thread.  (Only don't read TOO far.  My embarassing gas station drop is in there somewhere....  :oops: )

On a side note, I remember that none of my old bikes in years gone by had any of the side-stand, clutch-switch, neutral safety-interlocks. Were we older bikers more thoughtful riders or just lucky?? Love the GS and this forum.

C.......

Quote from: cernunosnone of my old bikes in years gone by had any of the side-stand, clutch-switch, neutral safety-interlocks. Were we older bikers more thoughtful riders or just lucky??

Well, somebody got hurt or killed because of the lack of safety devices.  More to the point, somebody probably got sued.  :?

Do we need safety devices 'cuz we're stoopid, ignorant or tip-toin' thru the toolips? It just boggles my mind because I can't imagine riding and not paying attention to what you are doing. Maybe a lot of people who ride shouldn't be riding..."ooops, forgot to pull the clutch in, heh heh". Hmmmmm....Love the GS and the forum.

C.......

thread jack


just lucky, cause when you hit the starter and she's in gear with the clutch out she jumps pretty good. so  unless you got the death grip going your going to let go of the starter button and then you realize what a dumbass you were and you pull in the clutch.  now if you have a scooter like mine  you just don't do that, for me all it takes is a bump on the starter to kick it over and she goes, and I really don't feel like chasing her down the street.

side note: any ideas on converting to a kick start?

end thread jack

oh and just get her up on the center stand so the rear tire is off the ground so you don't have to worry about taking off when you hit the starter.

no the bike won't start with the clutch out if you reverse the wires.  the switch is just a single pole DC switch that grounds out the relay for the starter siliniod. so by pulling in the clutch all you are doing is completing the circut allowing the juice to flow.  so just bypass it and see if it works if it does then you know what to fix.

thread jack again: bump starting the bike,
fast duck walk or sidesaddle? once I became comfortable sitting side saddle on the bike than bumping it that way became the easiest.  that  and it looks alot cooler when you are pushing it in a parking lot in front of a bunch of people, and you just hop on and ride away.  

end thread jack again

That's my point...why are you hitting the starter with the thing in gear and the clutch out? Then again, all but one of my bikes was kick-start so you'd probably notice real quick if it was in gear. BTW, on the old Triumphs, you couldn't start it unless the clutch WAS engaged. Pull the clutch lever in and when you kick you don't turn over the motor. Love the Baby G and the forum.

C.......

Quote from: cernunosThat's my point...why are you hitting the starter with the thing in gear and the clutch out? Then again, all but one of my bikes was kick-start so you'd probably notice real quick if it was in gear. BTW, on the old Triumphs, you couldn't start it unless the clutch WAS engaged. Pull the clutch lever in and when you kick you don't turn over the motor. Love the Baby G and the forum.

C.......

I dunno WTF you guys would want kickstart for.  All my dirtbikes had kickstarts... SCREW that

Quote from: davipuno the bike won't start with the clutch out if you reverse the wires.

You're right about the wires themselves - sorta.  On the newer models the wires don't matter; the bike will only start with the clutch out if you reverse the switch under the cover where the wires attach.

But on an older bike with the setup in starwalt's photo, you would "reverse the wires" by (accidentally?) spinning that contact plate 180 degrees -- since they're permanently attached.  The end effect would be the same.

there is two fuses, check them both (see picture)
my bike burns fuses when stunting. funny when standing on tank or wheelie, SNAP! engine stops

Check cool pictures @ http://koti.mbnet.fi/hammu/apinointi


(http://koti.mbnet.fi/hammu/fusepieni.JPG)

Quote from: doshiiYeah, I'm getting zero. The lights and everything work perfectly though

If the lights work the fuse must be OK.

But for more details on how to check the fuse(s), see this post.

hammu, ur doing endos on a gs?! u must like replacing those fork seals :)

You guys are far, far too kind.

I'll let you all know as soon as I fix it, which looks like it will be tomorrow. These pictures are really helpful! It's just incredibly frustrating, because I know that I wouldn't have figured that out in 10,000 years.

Thanks again you folks.

Quote from: cernunosDo we need safety devices 'cuz we're stoopid, ignorant or tip-toin' thru the toolips? ..........

Nope, cause we're just human. :o  :x  :roll:  :mrgreen:  :dunno:  :guns:  :lol:  :cheers:  :(  :)  :P  ;)  :nono:  8)

I had to replace my clutch lever once and the same thing happened. I pulled in apart again and saw that the moving contact piece (as displayed in starwalt's pic) was not exactly in place. And it was over greased and not making any metal-to-metal contact. kind of a pain to work with since it's so small :guns:   Be sure it's in there right, and work the clutch lever a few good pulls before trying to start her up.

Quote from: averagehammu, ur doing endos on a gs?! u must like replacing those fork seals :)

so thats why my fork seals keep going

It worked. The piece had slipped into the little slot where it's supposed to fit; now it's where it's supposed to be. I wondered why it was so hard to manipulate the broken piece I had to yank out; now I know.

Sorry I'm not making much sense. But this is a feeling I cannot describe. My freedom has been given back to me through you folks. I cannot thank you enough. I'll have to order my subscription to Motorcyclist through you guys. This is way too much. Thank you.

Oh, and Yukari also adds her own "arigatou gozaimasu!"

Now hug that little GS and cherish this forum.

C.......

Quote from: doshiiIt worked. The piece had slipped into the little slot where it's supposed to fit; now it's where it's supposed to be. I wondered why it was so hard to manipulate the broken piece I had to yank out; now I know.

Sorry I'm not making much sense. But this is a feeling I cannot describe. My freedom has been given back to me through you folks. I cannot thank you enough. I'll have to order my subscription to Motorcyclist through you guys. This is way too much. Thank you.

Oh, and Yukari also adds her own "arigatou gozaimasu!"

Yea hard to believe that that little bit has a Little copper colored U shaoped metal piece, a spring and a slider plastic piece ... and we wonder why it fails so much ...  :lol:
BTW You exclaiming in nepali ??? Bengali ??? Too much like nepali to me ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Japanese. gee, havn't you everseen goldmember?

average:

fork seals changed 2003 winter..

this winter --> huge front forks upgrade

Quote from: hammuthere is two fuses, check them both (see picture)

The fuse on the left, under the red cover, is the one the bike uses.  The fuse on the right is just the spare fuse holder... it is not attached to anything electrical.

rema1000:

in my bike, if i take that fuse off, lights and other useless shaZam! wont work.

the electrical wiring has been redone once, by the previous owner.
i dunno WTF he did do.

but that is my bike. 2 fuses

Quote from: Kerry on February 24, 2005, 12:55:12 AM
Questions:

1) Put the bike in Neutral and see if it will start with the clutch lever OUT.  If so, you may have mounted the switch backwards.

2) I'm assuming your clutch switch looks like the photo below.  Am I right?  (The earliest model years apparently didn't have this switch - I'm not sure when it was added.)  All the switch does is "join" the two wires together to close the safety circuit.  If the switch is actually broken or missing - rather than installed backwards - you can try pushing the connectors over both ends of a paper clip and taping them in place.  Just be aware that your bike will then start regardless of the clutch lever position.[/list:u]

(http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_1230_ClutchEngagementSwitch.jpg)

If I/we got it wrong, let me/us know!

i know this is an old thread, but wow this really saved me hours of tinkering around on the bike.

so quick history, i changed out my handlebars and now needed to put back the controls. i pulled a little bit too far on the clutch lever assembly and one of the metal conductors for the clutch safety switch snapped off.  after that, i couldn't get the bike started at all.

now, after reading this thread i cut a small piece of electrical wire and inserted it in both connectors closing the circuit. now, the bike starts! (without the clutch)

i already ordered a replacement part, but at least i can still go riding!  :thumb:

cheers,
~drin[/list]

when my bike was used as a track bike ALL the safety interlocks were removed. this clutch switch neutral switch sidestand switch stuff always seems a little silly to me. I say hack it off, it makes the bike more reliable, and the first time you pull away with the sidestand down you will bloody well remember to put it up the next :)

EDIT: I didn't read the thread all the way through. I see you figured out the problem.

I am probably pulling a real no-no hear but you can bypass the safety switches pretty easily.

There is a switch for the clutch handle (shown above.) The wires for this are inside the headlight bucket. (Yellow Green or Yellow White I think. You can trace those from the handle to the bucket.) Simply disconnect the wires and set them aside inside the bucket. Next re-connect the other 2 wires together which will complete the circuit.

Next take your right side cover off and find the Green covered wire with a black connetor, and a black and white wire with barrel connectors. Disconnect those 2 wires and put a paperclip from the black wire into the green wire plug (on the harness side.)

Now try and start. If you get the same results, I suspect what Buddha said is right. Your ignition push button is bad.

If this is a big no-no, someone tell me and I will delete.

Thanks,
CB