Well, I have the aluzio part sitting in my garage and I'm disappointed with the fit. So I've decided to to spend a couple weeks making my own fiberglass undertail. It's something new for me and I would love any suggestions that the forum has to offer...
Day 1, forming the tail light. I'm using that funky green foam they use for flowers and shaping it to fit the 2wheeljunkie LED lights. After roughing it in I'll make it out of bondo so I can fine tune the shape before making a mold.
I'm planning on using part of the old fender for the mold as well. Mostly the arch from where it bolts to back of the battery tray up to where it would break the plane of the undertail.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/fettcols/bottle.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/fettcols/firstfit.jpg)
Please if anybody has any ideas feel free to let me know.
fett
The second picture looks like an alien with a suzuki helmet on! I know this doesn't help you in anyway, but it looked funny :lol:
Anyway, good luck with your project!
Mike
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/fettcols/firstfit.jpg)(http://img200.exs.cx/img200/669/catmelonhead1sd.th.jpg)
That's a cool project. Keep us updated.
Quote from: xtalman

That's a cool project. Keep us updated.
that's freakin hilarious!
very classy reply. . .
(congratulation xtalman; this is the first reply to a thread that I've made in a while! keep up the good work)
cheers,
joel
Quote from: animal motherThe second picture looks like an alien with a suzuki helmet on! I know this doesn't help you in anyway, but it looked funny :lol:
Anyway, good luck with your project!
Mike
LOL!!! haha
Quote from: xtalman

That's a cool project. Keep us updated.
Hahaha, you guys are funny!!!
thats just sooo wrong! :nono:
Cool project. I thought about making a quarter fairing out of paper machete as a mold. Then maybe use fiber glass patching material to finish it off. That's cool that you're actually trying this though. Let us know how it turns out!
Dole, I think you now have two great choices for an avatar.
I thought along similar lines yesterday.
I thing the green foam was a bad idea...
I have found that bondo is makes a great mold surface. I would use the green foam then put a thin layer of bondo over the top to provide a smooth hard surface.
:thumb:
Jake
Any imperfection in the master will transfer to the mold.
Once you made one. You could sell it on this board. I would buy one if it turns out o.k
Oh MY GOD!!! I am crying!!!!!!!
that is the funniest thing I have seen in a While!!!
LMAO!!!!!!
Hopefully all goes well. I'm about to finish up the glass work on my fairing for the CBR (tab broken off, had to fab up a mount and fix it). Had some problems with the mix curing (still has hardner on it that didnt harden for some reason, its slimy). But im going to sand what I have and lay another layer over with a better mix and better resin. Then i get to sand and paint the whole shebang. Glass work is good times, GL man hope the undertail works out for ya.
(http://img200.exs.cx/img200/669/catmelonhead1sd.th.jpg)
(http://www.strangecosmos.com/images/content/9272.jpg)
HAHAHAA!!! thats awesome! :lol:
Oh I can see it now....a new paint scheme....a melon rind painted Shoei, pink leathers, and a Watermelon colored GS with some black spots for seeds! :lol:
Maybe the same guy that did the Zebra print GS?
Go for it Photoshop gurus!
How about "Melon Head Racing" ?
That's the best idea I've heard in a long time! :lol:
I'm making an undertail out of smoked lexan. It took 4 cardboard templates to get the shape and I taped some metal strips to it to see if I could get it in in one pice. I will get some pics soon. I think it will look good but some of you seem pretty picky. I put some water on the tire and bounced on the rear pegs to see it it would bottm out and ended up with a one inch contact patch. I don't think I could generate that much travel going down the road but I'll just have to take to the streets to find out. I think I'm going to put some Electroluminescent Wire behind it.
Yeah... Post some pics when you get 'em. :thumb:
To drape form you'll need an accurate model of your intended shape, avoiding curves that require the material to shrink or expand. For a onesy-twosy you might try building your shape up from quartersawn mahogany dried to 5% MC or below followed by a felt backer. Use solid wood, the glues in plywood won't stand up to the oven temperature.
You might also try making the form from a high Tg polyester tooling resin and chopped strand mat. Cover this with felt.
Temperature-wise you'll need in the range of 375 degrees F. More if you're drape forming, less if you use a vacuum bag. The temperature is too low if it won't drape to your shape in several hours (or your shape is too complex). The temperature is too high if the felt leaves an impression in the plastic.
Search the web on "drape forming", "vacuum forming", and thermoforming polycarbonate, you'll find plenty of information.
Little tip: The best way to finish polycarb and leave a smooth edge is to use a carbide beading router bit. :)
Holy crap GeeP, you know everything! You're my hero :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: GeeP on April 06, 2006, 02:25:03 PM
To drape form you'll need an accurate model of your intended shape, avoiding curves that require the material to shrink or expand. For a onesy-twosy you might try building your shape up from quartersawn mahogany dried to 5% MC or below followed by a felt backer. Use solid wood, the glues in plywood won't stand up to the oven temperature.
You might also try making the form from a high Tg polyester tooling resin and chopped strand mat. Cover this with felt.
Temperature-wise you'll need in the range of 375 degrees F. More if you're drape forming, less if you use a vacuum bag. The temperature is too low if it won't drape to your shape in several hours (or your shape is too complex). The temperature is too high if the felt leaves an impression in the plastic.
Search the web on "drape forming", "vacuum forming", and thermoforming polycarbonate, you'll find plenty of information.
Little tip: The best way to finish polycarb and leave a smooth edge is to use a carbide beading router bit. :)
I love you.