FORK SEALS
Doing fork seals is a breeze, get the parts, and fresh fork oil, some like 15w, I like 20w. Now - a quick and simple way to fork seals.
* I use airtools to make my life easier, not everyone has them or can get to them but you can still do the job with hand tools.
Get the front wheel off the ground (I set mine up High with jackstands), pull wheel, pull caliper and let hang to side, unbolt fender.
While tubes are still in clamps, use rachet with allen socket or air impact wrench (dialed down) if you got it with allen socket and blip it to break the bolt loose almost to the point of coming out.
Get a bucket or old butter bowl and place it under the fork you're working on (keep it there). Finish pulling the bolt and let the oil drain.
Now you can either loosen the clamps and drop the tubes out and work at a vice (use wood in the jaws so you dont scratch the tubes) or if you set the bike up HIGH do them on the bike. either way the top tubes must be secured solidly in place.
Gently pry up the dust cover that sits over the seals, there is a spring clip that holds the seal in place under the dust cover. Once clip is removed, take a 1/2" drive ratchet and pull the top caps. The idea is to NOW unload the springs. (Remember that butter bowl? Is it still in place? Should be.)
Once caps are removed more oil WILL come out. (Remember any spacers/washers that come out -- they must go back in.) Pull springs if you like.
Now being as the tube is still secured in Vice or fork clamps, compress the lower tube and give a quick yank to separate the upper and lower, the seal will come out, you will see the Valve that the little allen bolt was holding, those spin when you try to break loose by hand, you get nowhere.
Clean everything up. If changing dust boot, do it now. Slide new lubed seal over tube, make sure bushing (if it came out) is back in place, with washer that sits over that but under the seal. Slide tubes back together making sure the seal is seated, reinstall that clip and dust boot. Now, recompress the spring and thread top cap back on tight (only need few threads), put allen bolt back in the bottom and blip it tight (be gentle ok, you're not gun man on a pit crew)
Pop top cap and dump in your measured amount of oil. Replace top cap and tighten. At this point you can reinstall the fork on the bike (unless you did it on the bike like me) and do the same for the other fork. Even if only one is leaking, do both at same time. You already have the oil, seals come as a pair, it only makes sense.
If you dont like my method, that's cool, just follow the book. I have had both forks DONE and reinsalled running down the road inside 45 mins. Either way - if you think you can, do it yourself. Shops want 60$ per fork leg to do it, not including parts. Seals run about 14$.
Feel free to PM me with any questions.
Additional info that might help someone out there:
- See [this old post (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=7084.msg60075#msg60075)] for one version of a home-made tool that helps you to loosen / retighten the damper bolt at the bottom of the forks.
- Here's a picture showing the size of PVC pipe that works to seat the new fork seal (1 1/2", Schedule 40). It doubles as storage for the above-mentioned tool.
(http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_1464_PVC_ForkSealDriver.jpg)