Short version: What's the best way to remove ridiculously tight carburetor float bowl screws without stripping them?
Long version: I found out I needed to tweak my float height (http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16518), so I got into the bike last night. Thanks to duct tape and a Sharpie I had no problem remembering hoses or anything, but when I finally removed the carbs those SOB float bowl screws were on unbelievably tight. My bike works, and I can easily limp it to a dealer if need be, but I know exactly what to do, I just can't get past these damn Screws of Doom. :x I partially stripped one of the eight screws (I thought there were only four screws between the two bowls but I was wrong...). However, the rest are intact. Somebody here must've had this problem--what did you do? :dunno:
A power drill took them right out on mine.
get and impact screwdriver. It looks like a really thick steel screwdriver; and you hit the back of it with a hammer (dead-blow hammer works the best..) and it will pop those screw right out.
or, use a dremel. cut the heads off the screws. They need to be replaced with allen-head screws anyway. after cutting the heads off, use a pair of pliers and they should come out easily.
PB Blaster works well to help loosen bolts.
I bought a set of used carbs a while back with that problem.
I was able to get most of them off with needle nose vise grips. On one I used a dremel to cut a big slot in the screw and then used a big slotted screw driver.
Replace with allen screws for future pain free work.
What size Allen screws would work as bowl screw replacements? While I'm at it, my drain screws are in pretty sorry shape too (I've been using pliers on them so far :oops:)--what size Allens will replace those? Good suggestions so far--thanks guys. :cheers:
I got three off and destoyed a fourth. I used WD40 and a punch underneath the head on the last one. I replaced the screws at Home Despot. It's clear Suzuki doesn't want you messing around with them.
Quote from: cozyI got three off and destoyed a fourth. I used WD40 and a punch underneath the head on the last one. I replaced the screws at Home Despot. It's clear Suzuki doesn't want you messing around with them.
Ain't that the truth! :roll: What, Suzuki, you want me to pay $200 (I'm guessing) at the dealer every time my float heights slip? :nana:
Since I've opened the possiblity of replacing the screws afterward, I KNOW that somehow, in some way, those screws are coming
off, dammit. But I need to know the replacement Allen size... if I know the size I can just drop by the hardware store after work, which is walking distance from where I work but nowhere near where I live... once again, thanks y'all.
Here's a little mechanic's trick (and probably why I haven't stripped mine out yet): When loosening (and tightening) fasteners on opposing corners, treat them as you would tightening cylinder head bolts, tighten one a little then the other, alternating back and forth til both are as tight as you require them; same thing for loosening, loosen one a little, then the other.
:)
Hope this helps!
I don't know why I didn't think of posting this sooner. :dunno:
Quote from: scratchand probably why I haven't stripped mine out yet
And now I've probably jinxed myself. :lol:
Duly noted, scratch. I wish my carbs had just four bowl screws, like in the Clymer, instead of eight--Suzuki obviously decided to kick carb work up a notch with the more recent models. (BAM!)
Anyway, to anyone reading, if you know the Allen screw size that'll fit in the carb bowls (and the drains too if you know 'em), that'll give me one more day of my life to ride, for which I'd be grateful. :cheers:
Edit: Yeah, you probably did jinx yourself. But now you can just buy some Allen screws that will fit in case you DO strip those carb screws, thus ensuring that you'll never need them. :mrgreen:
For replacing, i didn't know the size but home depot had a template with different metric sized holes on it in the fasteners section. It took like 2 minutes to find the right size. 8mm i think. That's about 10/32".
You will see at the end of the link the words I used to search for the size of the allen screws that Srinath uses on the float bowls:
http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13925&highlight=allen+size+float+bowl
Hope this helps.
To note on the method I mentioned in my previous post; you're balancing the load that each screw has over the mating surface, so if you only loosen one the other has all the load and will be a Buddha Loves You to remove. Same thing if you only tighten one all the way and then the other, the first one will be a pain to remove.
Quote from: scratchYou will see at the end of the link the words I used to search for the size of the allen screws that Srinath uses on the float bowls:
http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13925&highlight=allen+size+float+bowl
Hope this helps.
To note on the method I mentioned in my previous post; you're balancing the load that each screw has over the mating surface, so if you only loosen one the other has all the load and will be a Buddha Loves You to remove. Same thing if you only tighten one all the way and then the other, the first one will be a pain to remove.
Ha - I was just about to post that thread - nice work! :cheers:
yup...just get an impact screwdriver...did mine on the weekend no problem with it
OK impact drivers are fine, but You'd have a hard time getting it to sit in straight in some of them ... I really use screw driver and if that fails, Left handed drill and drill press ... Also you'd need a nice soft point to bear the carbs against ... 2-3 old t shirts wadded up works great, or use a folded up inner tube and drape it on the jaws of a vice like a hammock and sit carbs in them ...
On a 02 the screws are 4mm and 12mm long, 89-00 are 5mm by 12 for 2 and 5mm by 16 for the other 2 - yea I use different lengths cos I want to take up all the threads where I can so the front gets longer, rear will hit the fuel line so use 12mm, BTW factory was like 13mm or weird length ... and I never found 13mm anywhere ... yea 89-00 has 2 later bikes are 4 ... and yea just tighten the allen heads with the small end of the allen wrench for leverage ... or fit the ball tip end in the bolt.
Cool.
Srinath.
I was able to get these things off with needle nose vice grips. Then I threw the f%$king things out :guns: and replaced them with nice little allen head bolts. M0.8 or something? I don't remember exactly but my little local hardware store had 'em.
jeff
usually, the bolts aren't 'too tight', they are chemically welded due to corrosion and the differences between the two metals.
I've had good luck over the years with impact drivers, but in a pinch, i've just smacked the heads of the screws before trying to turn them. (insert proper size phillips, rap it with hammer, then turn)
9 times out of ten this trick will work. not only does it dislodge some of the corrosion, it wedges the tip of the screwdriver in a fit further giving it more grip.
Thanks for pointing out that thread scratch, normally I do search before I ask a question but I got lazy this time. Got the size! Hopefully I can find those allen bolts and replace those little bastard screws--but if I have to resort to a Srianth method to get the screws out I think I'm boned... :o
BTW, I get what y'all mean about loosening the screws in the right order and not loosening any one screw too much at once--it's really a big deal when dealing with a gasket cover, as I've found out many times. It just seemed like I wouldn't be able to even loosen a single screw without tearing it all to hell. Glad to know I can rip them all up and not worry about it. :thumb:
Yay, I'm off work now--off to Home Depot (I'll look for their better screws). I can't wait to put "fixed" in the title of this thread; your advice may seem like it ain't no thang to you but to a newbie wrench like me it helps a lot... :cheers:
That does it... :x the screws have beaten me. Only one screw of eight would give, and I could not wrestle the slightest bit out of the other screws. I'm taking my carbs into a little shop near my place tomorrow and they oughta be able to help. They sell new dirt bikes and ATV's (incl. Suzukis) and they say they service streetbikes as well. The guys seem cool, how they treat this odd job will let me know just how cool they are... :lol: Gotta admit, isolating the problem to the carbs and taking just the carbs in, instead of the whole bike, is undoubtedly going to save me lots of $$$ and trouble so I shouldn't complain... but it sucks to get this far only to get denied... anyway, thanks for the advice all, and ride safe.
You want to send it to me ... I'd drill out and rejet them ... of course I never have opened a 2001+ carb ... but the faq etc should be fine ...
Cool.
Srinath.
I put a brand-new phillips #2 bit into a 1/4" socket, attached to a long socket extender, attached to a socket breaker bar on top. This made a sort-of "very, very long screwdriver".
I put the carbs between my feet (to hold them steady), then crouched/leaned over, so that the breaker bar was pressed up into my stomach. I leaned down on it with my weight. To turn the thing, I just sort-of twisted my torso slightly, while pushing downwards really firmly. I didn't even try to turn with my hands. All the screws came loose OK (first rejet, on a 12 year old GS500).
Having a long screwdriver helps keep it from wobbling very far off-center. And having something you can really put your weight into helps keep even pressure. You can only keep your hands just so steady.
Generous offer Srianth, if the only local wrench I trust doesn't pan out I'll PM you. Even if I get this problem solved, I'd be interested in a rejet sometime later. But for now my main priority is getting this fixed by next Friday.
I'd try your method Rema, but I'm afraid my screws are more or less goners now. They still aren't completely stripped, but I'd rather just give up on them, at least for now. But again, if the local mechanic doesn't work out I'll try your method before sending my carbs off.
Nuts... I forgot to mention this...
I said earlier that I only got one screw to give. Well, I decided to take it all the way out to compare it to the Allen bolts I bought that day (5mm 0.8). The replacements I got were waaaaay too big. Those 2002 carb bowl screws are tiny. Short too, the 16mm lengths I got woulda stuck out a couple of mm. Probably explains why there's four of those guys each carb instead of two. Oh well, I didn't open most of the bags of bolts so I'll exchange them later. My main focus is to get my carbs to the shop and have them get those bolts out via ANY MEANS NECESSARY (short of stripping the housing threads and destroying the carbs of course). Hmmm, I'm out of carb cleaner, might as well pick up some and spritz it out a bit as long as I'm going through this whole ordeal... anyway, gotta go for now, gotta actually work. Can you believe they make you work at work sometimes?
Told you they were 4mm ... and please take those bolts to the shop as well, cos otherwise they'll take out the phillips head and replace them with more phillips heads ...
Cool.
Srinath.
take your time carb bolts are easy. i swaped out mine with allen heads'per srinath info with out taking off my carbs+i rejeted. see ya.
I dont know if this heps, but sometimes I have found that if you try to tightent them first a notch that brakes them free, and then it is easier to loosten... Just a suggestion.
OK, the shop got the screws out, I took the carbs home, readjusted my float heights (they were way off), and secured the bowls with 4 mm Allen machine bolts (sorry Srianth, I just wasn't paying attention...). Bike runs way better now and no longer dies under hard stops. I can ride to work again, and if my floats need adjusting again I don't have to take my carbs off. Huzzah. :)