If anyone cares, I posted a new How-To page on my website last night:
Replacing the Brake Fluid on a Suzuki GS500 (http://www.bbburma.net/HowTo/BrakeFluid_Replace/)[/list:u]One of these days I'll convert it into a FAQ forum topic.
PS for Srinath -- Sorry about the DOT 4 bias. Care to write up an illustrated "DOT 5 Conversion" How-To? 8)
going to DOT5 is the same but you need to flush.. and flush.. and flush... and flush... and flush. at least.. with cars... that's how it is.
DOT 5 doesn't mix well with DOT 4. You HAVE to make SURE you get all the DOT 4 out.
I'm not really sorry about the DOT 4 bias in the How-To page, for the very reason you stated.
I was just teasing Srinath ... the DOT 5 champion! :)
As always, informative and well illustrated. :thumb:
I was wondering about the front brakes when I did this a while back. It looks to me that it would be hard to trap air in those lines. They descend from the resevoir down the fork to the caliper with no loops to trap air. Bubbles should rise to the resevoir w/out much resistance.
Has anyone had to bleed air from a front line?
very helpful. thanks kerry! btw what size vinyl tubing did you use?
Well ... I cannibalized one of the vacuum lines from my Motion Pro carb synch tool. :oops: (It came with 4, after all.)
But I think you can use aquarium tubing. I'll check when I get home.
Very, very useful Kerry, even for my cbr. I need to change the fluid, pads (and possibly switch over to stainless steel lines) shortly.
Thank you.
Quote from: KerryI think you can use aquarium tubing. I'll check when I get home.
Nope, bad call on the aquarium tubing. At least on the thin stuff I bought at WalMart.
The tubing that worked well has an outer diameter of ~
5/16" and an inner diameter of ~
3/16". (~8mm / ~5mm)
The aquarium tubing is more like OD
7/32" and ID
1/8". It fits OK on the carb drain spouts, but I don't think I'll be needing 25 feet just for
that! :x
you mentioned that you used to use a straw. isnt it neccisary to use something that is air tight, to be able to see for bubbles?
Excellent Kerry.
Here's a suggestion to make an easy job even easier.
Empty the reservoir with a turkey baster or some such suction device and fill with new fluid first, then all that has to be flushed is the line.
:cheers:
Kerry,
Were you around my garage when I changed my brake fluid last year?? :? Your instructions seem almost like a replay of when I did my change. That proves it - I MUST have done it right cause that's the way you do it! :lol:
Great instructions, too bad they weren't around when I needed them. They will certainly be useful for others. There must have been something else here on this site about doing this work otherwise - how'd I get it right? :dunno:
The fluid change was one of the first things that had to be done after I bought my used GS. In other words, one of the first 'mechanical' things I ever did with a bike. It was a great feeling to have accomplished it all by myself!
Good job Kerry - as usual. :thumb:
Dandy
Quote from: weaselnozeyou mentioned that you used to use a straw. isnt it neccisary to use something that is air tight, to be able to see for bubbles?
Believe me ... the straw was airtight by the time I got it stretched over the bleeder valve nipple. A little too tricky to do though ... and at a penny apiece I was ruining way too many straws that way. :mrgreen:
Quote from: John BatesHere's a suggestion to make an easy job even easier.
Empty the reservoir with a turkey baster or some such suction device and fill with new fluid first, then all that has to be flushed is the line.
:cheers:
Good idea!
Me, I don't mind the extra pumping. It's kinda therapeutic. :)
For those who own a TZR80 and can read catalan... I did
a Howto some years ago on the same topic.
http://k.udg.es/~m/60000km/manteniment/liqfreno/index.html
:)
so yesterday my friend comes over to change his brake fluid. i tell him i know how because i read up on it. i turn around to get some tools and before i know it, he has the drain screw off and is pumping out all the fluid. so now he has no fluid inside and a lot of air lol. its a ninja 250 (not that it matters). so what now? do we add fluid and start kerry's instructions over untill all the bubbles are out?
Thanks for the how-to, Kerry :thumb:
But I do have a somewhat unrelated question for you:
When do you plan on updating the tank bra section on your site? :dunno:
Quote from: weaselnozeso yesterday my friend comes over to change his brake fluid. i tell him i know how because i read up on it. i turn around to get some tools and before i know it, he has the drain screw off and is pumping out all the fluid. so now he has no fluid inside and a lot of air lol. its a ninja 250 (not that it matters). so what now? do we add fluid and start kerry's instructions over untill all the bubbles are out?
Yeah, add fluid and start pumping. It might take a while for the fluid to decide to start going down the brake line (sorta like a manual water pump, needs a little priming). There's a couple changes in the procedure I would say. You won't be able to get all the air out of the line on the first shot. So add fluid until everything comes out clear and you have a steady flow of new fluid coming out the bleeder. There's going to be a ton of very tiny air bubbles, and adding more fluid at this point is counterproductive. So close things up, give some taps with a wrench up and down the entire brake system, wiggle the line, shake the bike, etc. Take it for a conservative ride. Make those air bubbles collect and escape their trapped spaces. Leave the bike overnight and bleed again the next day to get rid of the remaining air.
So, I changed the master cylinder for my rear brake, finished the job today, and this is what I've got to do.
Quote from: GSRiderWhen do you plan on updating the tank bra section on your site? :dunno:
Hmm. How about "sometime this summer"? I've been dragging my feet on it for different reasons ... largely because I forget, partly because I've been too lazy to measure the "aftermarket" Velcro tabs that worked well for me the second time around.
But the biggest reason has been because the Targa tank bra has been unavailable for 2 or 3 years now. :x
Anyway ... I'm glad you asked about it! My parents came out from AR for a visit at the beginning of April. While they were here my Mom traced out the dimensions of my tank bra on some large paper and took some notes. She's a pretty handy, can-do seamstress, and the idea was for her try making one for my brother (who has a 2000 GS500E). I told her that if it works out she would have a ready market for them right here, at say $25-$30 a pop.
Let me know if you're interested. My parents visited during my 3-week, no-GStwin moratorium, so I forgot to check the interest level when I finally came back.
... QUESTION: Is it OK to hijack one's own message thread? ... :dunno:
Kerry, looking at the brake bleeding how-to I believe that you were changing the fluid in my Black '00. It doesn't look like your yellow tank in the photos. Again, thanks for taking such good care of your big brother, and everyone else on the site at the same time!! And to think, growing up we all thought that you were nothing more than a numbers guy.
Yep, it was your bike all right. :)
I saw that you had posted, and I was half-expecting to read that Mom had already whipped you up a tank bra ... and then a nice review following. :roll:
Has she ever mentioned making one? (Oops - maybe it was going to be a surprise! :dunno: )
She showed me the pattern pieces she had cut out. Don't know what she has in mind to make one out of yet though.
Just for kicks (and to take the pictures) I recreated my original brake bleeding method today, as well as the one I used a week or two ago on MY bike.
Here's the bendable drinking straw / paper cup / Scotch tape setup. I wouldn't recommend it unless you're both broke and patient. It takes some doing to get the straw to stretch enough to fit over the valve. And the straw moves as you open and close the valve, so you have to use a light touch....
(http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_2215_BrakeBleeding_StrawAndPaperCup_1.jpg)
(http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_2216_BrakeBleeding_StrawAndPaperCup_2.jpg)
I MUCH prefer this next setup. It's even easier / cleaner than the one I used in the How-To page I just posted, but since it costs a few bucks more I thought I would document the more DIY version in the How-To page.
(http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_2218_SpeedBleederBag_1.jpg)
(http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_2220_SpeedBleederBag_2.jpg)
(http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_2221_SpeedBleederBag_3.jpg)
If you feel like you just gotta have a Speed Bleeder Bag, go to this page (http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/product/BAGANDHOSECOMBO) on the Speed Bleeder website (http://www.speedbleeder.com).
While you're at it, you may want to look into their flagship product: one-way bleeder valves. It's a pretty slick concept, and SpeedBleeder is not the only outfit marketing a similar product. I actually bought two pairs of the valves myself a couple years ago, but never got them installed.
Sigh.... :roll:
Kerry, my friend (Who rides a '00 929) got the speed bleeder setup last year and swears by it. He now does his brake fluid every spring because he claims it's that easy.
As for the tank bra (Sorry 'bout the hijack :oops:) if there is an extra one made, I'd love to get set up with it (I have an '00)
Quote from: KerryQuote from: John BatesHere's a suggestion to make an easy job even easier.
Empty the reservoir with a turkey baster or some such suction device and fill with new fluid first, then all that has to be flushed is the line.
:cheers:
Good idea!
Me, I don't mind the extra pumping. It's kinda therapeutic. :)
Better yet, how about siphoning it out with the hose and bottle?
Great instructions Kerry. Thanks!
-Gavin
Kerry,
A slightly different question....
But first the history,,,,,after having the brake fluid changed by the shop the level window became frosted and as such hard to see the level, I thought [imagined/hoped] that I could see fluid, [after all its only been 6months since the change]. Lately I have noticed the brake lever feels 'jerky' today it was definately stuffed! I tried to gently squeeze the lever only to have it come on hard and fast causing the front end to Dive like a sub....Bloody scary at 110km! I almost put myself over the front end. Anyway I limped home on the rear and down gearing, and staying 10miles away from anything in front of me, i made it to safety.... I took the top of the reservoir off and the diaphram was 'way down' in the reservoir, I didnt have any DOT4 so that will be purchased tomorrow, and so to the question... if I have completely emptied the reservoir, is there a different technique to refilling than you have shown? [can I add Dot4 until its 'full' or do iI have to go all the way] and, as i have removed the cover plate have I introduced air to the system, thus rendering any chance of riding it back to the shop?
Why I have 'run out' of brake fluid is a bit of a mystery as there are no apparent leaks anywhere in the system and up until lately braking has been normal??
I have never changed brake fluid before, I like to leave that kind of thing to those who are 'qualified' but as I am in a pickle I might have to do it myself, any help you can spare to a total 'Noob' would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers, Old man.
Kerry hasn't been around in quite a while.
As far as your brakes, if they messed it up 6 months ago, I'd be hesitant to take it back to them now. I'd be worried that I was just paying them to do it wrong again.
As far as the resevior being empty, there's really only one step to bleeding brakes, which is putting more fluid in the top, and squeezing it out at the bottom. It's pretty much the same process either way. If you read Turkina's post from 4/29/05 at 6:00pm, they pretty much went over the process for someone who was in the same situation as you are with their friends 250. You've just gotta fill it with fluid and start pumping it through. Even once the new fluid makes it to the other end you're going to want to do it 1 or 2 more times and tap/shake all the air bubbles loose inbetween.