how hard is it to replace the final drive chain? Is it something I could do myself or better to let a professional do it? :?
Thanks in advance for your help!!
Cheers
A
it will take you longer to ride to the bike shop than to replace it.
excellent, my manual doesn't state how to do it though? Is there a prior post here that details it?
Thanks again
A
I don't think there is a set way, yo just pop the master link off pull the old one out and put the new one in
you have checkd that the sprockets are ok, i usually change the front sprocket if i change the chain, the back one tends to wear less, just check if the teeth are slightly back from upright, then i would change that aswell, check the back for same.
as for the chain, just take the split link out if there is one, if not just grind the link pins on one of the links, itl pop off. when you put the other one back on, preferably and o ring or x ring rated, make sure the round of the split link is faceing the travel of the chain, withe the o ring i had to use a g clamp to squash it a bit, so i could get the split link on.
Remember you will have to loosen the back wheel nut, release the adjusters that are on the back of the swingarm, slide, or kick the wheel forward so the chain slackens.
Quote from: knowlseyRemember you will have to loosen the back wheel nut, release the adjusters that are on the back of the swingarm, slide, or kick the wheel forward so the chain slackens.
i tried this...it's IMPOSSIBLE to move the wheel up...
move the wheel up??? the whell needs to slide to the front of the bike, along the swingarm, after the 12 mill adjuster nuts have been slackened right off
http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_0027/rear_wheel/rear_wheel.cfm?man=su&groupid=3080&parent=3070
no 22 is the nut to slacken off and wheel will slide forward, make sure you loosen the big nut on the spindle, i think its 22mil no 12
i know...i loosened everything...but still won't budge...
Quote from: AruddIs there a prior post here that details it?
Here you go...
if your wheel does not move forward a touch, it probably means that the chain adjustment compansator that i was on about with the 12 mill nuts has not been moved for a while, do what i did the other day with a mates lasses bike, put it on centre stand, got him to hold handle bars, put bike boots on, and kicked the back wheel from behind while sitting on the ground, it eventually move, as long as that spindle nut is slack, and the adjusters are loose it should move eventually, when you slacken the spindle nut, just tap that through a little, not all the way, just a centremetre or so, that might help jerk the adjusters, if no movement, take the adjuster caps off and spray with easing fluid, wd40 over here, not sure if its the same stuff over there.
you will need to get some slack on the chain for the new one to adjust properly, then follow the above instructions link (with pictures)
making sure the split links round side faces towards the travel of the chain