hello all, i've noticed my chain hitting my centerstand at low speeds and was wondering how to tighten it. i've done a search already and came up with a load of crap :) anyway, my chain does have a masterlink if that matters at all and there is definitely more than a couple of inches of freeplay, probly between 2.5-3 inches. thanks guys.
~facio
to put it briefly...
remove cotter pin from axle nut. losen axle nut. turn chain adjuster nuts 1/4 turn at a time, equally to both sides till desired chain tension is acheived (20-30mm). tighten axle nut. replace cotter pin with a new one. what is a chain adjuster? the thing that sticks out the back of the swingarm on both sides
not a hard thing to do, pretty much exactly what weezelnoze said.
Be sure to install a brand new cotter pin, and torque the axel to specifications.
Also i remember someone saying that the manual says to check chain tension while on the side stand.
Be sure not to put too much tension on the chain, it does need some freeplay.
I can look up the specifications in the manual if you need them.
20-30mm
haha cool guys, thanks for the quick replies, i will give it shot tonight, thanks. i have the haynes manual but for some reason it does not say how to tighten a chain ...
~facio
Chapter 1, section 11: "Drive chain - freeplay check and adjustment"
Includes 5 photographs!
Never make a representation about the repair manual if you can't back it up.
Kerry will be there. And he'll sit you down.
* stands up at desk. salutes.*
Nice work, sir.
Dang, this one isn't even off of the first page!
http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18036
Quote from: vfrocketnot a hard thing to do, pretty much exactly what weezelnoze said.
Be sure to install a brand new cotter pin, and torque the axel to specifications.
Also i remember someone saying that the manual says to check chain tension while on the side stand.
Be sure not to put too much tension on the chain, it does need some freeplay.
I can look up the specifications in the manual if you need them.
Rear axle nut tightening torque:
(Except for Canada) 56.0 lb-ft
(For Canada) 47.0 lb-ft
I guess in Canada we like our nuts a little looser :?
But seriously, how does one achieve the specified torque? Do you need a special (and expensive?) tool?
And do you have to order cotter pins from Suzuki, or can you get a bag of generic ones somewhere?
Neil.
Quote from: daneilahhow does one achieve the specified torque? Do you need a special (and expensive?) tool?


Quote from: daneilahAnd do you have to order cotter pins from Suzuki, or can you get a bag of generic ones somewhere?

torque wrench...
Quote from: Kerry
Niiiiiiiiiiiice!!!!
That's the best post yet! :lol:
$15? Damn... I'm going to Sears!
Quote from: weaselnozereplace cotter pin with a new one.
... That reminds me... :oops:
OK, I admit it - that was a little misleading. That photo (and those prices) are from a sale a couple years ago. :x
Sears.com currently shows the 1/2" version (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944642000) of their low-end torque wrench for $29.99 and the 3/8" version (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944690000) for $24.99.
Quote from: RVertigoThat's the best post yet! :lol:
:lol: :thumb:
Quote from: RVertigoQuote from: Kerry
Niiiiiiiiiiiice!!!!
That's the best post yet! :lol:
Hahaha, if it were anyone else other than Kerry posting those photographs, I'd assume he was being a smartass!
Kerry is a smartass... :lol: :lol: :lol:
My only regret is the size of that photo from Sears. As I recall, I left it that big so one could read the part numbers and compare the torque ranges, etc.
But hey - at least I only posted it once! ;)
Thanks Kerry.... very helpful :thumb:
OK, I've got me a torque wrench ($18 on sale at Sears last week :mrgreen: ), a 22mm socket, and a package of cotter pins ($1 for a pack of 10 at Home Depot).
One last question before I start messing with the chain.
When measuring the slack in the chain, do you measure from the inside or outside of the chain? This can obviously make a big difference in your measurement (twice the height of the chain).
Here's the picture from the manual... it kind of implies that you measure from the center of the chain... but it's not a very detailed picture.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/daneilah/chain.jpg)
What you're measuring is the amount that any chosen spot on the chain moves up and down.
So, bottom of chain to bottom of chain, top of chain to top of chain, center of chain to center of chain ... your choice.
Success :thumb:
Chain's tighter (hopefully not too tight). I'm pretty sure it rides better. Rolling on the throttle seems smoother.
Next I may try changing the oil myself :o
Thanks Kerry for your help!
I just adjusted my chain for the first time this afternoon after agonizing over whether I would do it right or screw it up. I followed the repair manual and it took a grand total of about 5 minutes to do. It takes VERY LITTLE adjusting to take the slack out of the chain, so watch out for over-tightening. Lubed the chain while I was at it.
does anyone know the specs of a bad chain? how many links is it per unit of measurement?......I think my chain is stretched to the point of needing replacing..
I guess my snap-on 3/4 drive torque wrench will do :roll: it's lowest setting is 50ft/lbs...got to love them big trucks I work on 200ft/lbs +some sweat and heavy breathing
Quote from: Jace009gsdoes anyone know the specs of a bad chain? how many links is it per unit of measurement?
From the Haynes manual: