So I just did my first oil change on the gs. Replaced the filter too. But after getting everything back together, the oil filter cover is leaking like a waterfall. Not sure what I did wrong but I have 3 thoughts:
1. I should have replaced the o-ring. It looked fine to me, and the dealership didn't have one in stock, so I reused the old one.
2. Maybe I didn't clean off the surfaces as well as I should have.
3. I didn't tighten down the bolts snug enough. I'm a bit timid to tighten down too hard after reading stories on here about stripping the bolt. I have a torque wrench but it's really too big to fit in that space.
Any thoughts? What's the most likely problem here.
Thanks
The most fool-proof method I've found to get a good seal is to put white Lithium grease (or similar) in the recess that the O-Ring fits in. Push the O-Ring in it and then bolt it up.
It was the only way I could keep the oil filter cover from dripping short of putting 100 lbs of torque on those little nuts. The grease helps make the seal and holds the O-Ring in place to boot. :thumb:
The O-Ring should be good for many oil changes. Have the original in-place for what is now my 6th change.
Don't over-tighten the little cap nuts. The bolts have a habit of snapping off -- you'll get several hits if you search for "broken filter cover bolt". (Saw another one not two weeks back.)
I would double check that you didn't pinch that o-ring on installation, if not replace the o-ring and tighten to spec and it will be fine
Quote from: RedShiftThe most fool-proof method I've found to get a good seal is to put white Lithium grease (or similar) in the recess that the O-Ring fits in. Push the O-Ring in it and then bolt it up.
How does Lithium grease take the heat? I use brake crease and it does the job very well.
it really sounds like you pinched the o ring, and it isn't sealing. take the cover off and clean both surface areas, and use grease like the other guys have siad then you should be fine.
The first time I changed my oil, I had a similar "leak," so, the obvious thing to do was tighten the nuts down, right? :lol:
The studs held on until oh, say 40 ft-lbs of torque before it was time to pull out the vice grips and back out what was left of 'em. 30 minutes later, I figured out that the O-ring was pinched.
In my opinion, it's worth going to BikeBandit (http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/oem_schematic_view~mp_id~~mscssid~J2HRVXSSH94W8KA4PVWVE7L8HVDADP81~schem_dept_id~705465~section_dept_id~1~section_dept_name~OEM+%28Stock%29+Parts~dept_type_id~2~model_dept_year~2001~model_dept_mfr~Suzuki~model_dept_id~703275~model_dept_name~GS500K1.asp) and ordering a few at $3 per.
Then again, at $3 per you could just buy a Fram CH6000 filter ... which comes with a new O-ring. :roll:
When I changed the oil on my 04 I used the same o ring, but I used Qtips :) to clean the groove the o ring sits in and also to clean the surface of the motor. Worked great-got every spec of dirt off there. :thumb:
Quote from: KerryThen again, at $3 per you could just buy a Fram CH6000 filter ... which comes with a new O-ring. :roll:
dont do it! fram is evil. kerry is out of extra o-rings cause his last one is sitting on my desk.
Go to Napa and get one, ask them to look it up and they can get you one. Ive got one of there filters in my bike now and have the o-ring sitting on my desk. Then to tighten choke up as far as you can on your wrench and tighten till snug, if it leaks then you have a problem. I feel sorry for those studs that had to take 40 ft/lbs, :lol: poor fella's.
I think the trick is making sure the ring is dirt/grit free and the grease. In the original post, hulap0pr said his torque wrench was too big the use on the filter cover bolts. I have experienced this problem, I have a torque wrench that is fine for "big" accessible jobs and a mega-expensive torque driver that is probably not man enough for this job. {I bought it many years back for use on hand-portable walkie-talkie radios to tighten the backs without distorting chassis and components.}
Can anyone recomend a torque wrench a max of about 8"/10", 20/25cm long for those infuriating in-between jobs???
Quote from: KerryThen again, at $3 per you could just buy a Fram CH6000 filter ... which comes with a new O-ring. :roll:
Thanks for the info. I knew I had bought one before with the o-ring included but I couldn't remember for sure if it was a FRAM. I remember it was less money because I bought it at Canadian Tire instead of the bike stealer.
And by the way hulap0pr, my bet it that you pinched the o-ring. I did it before too with the same waterfall effect.
My money is on the pinched o-ring. I had the same thing happen to me with the same "waterfall" effect.
Put the bike on the center stand and weight down the back so that the front tire is off the ground. Put your oil pan under the filter cap and take it off. You will lose a little bit of oil but not much. I think you will find that the o-ring will have a small crease in it. I would replace with a new one. I always coat the o-ring with oil before placing it in the filter cap. This will help in holding it in place and will also help with creating your seal. Should be all good after that.
Quote from: AerospikeQuote from: RedShiftThe most fool-proof method I've found to get a good seal is to put white Lithium grease (or similar) in the recess that the O-Ring fits in. Push the O-Ring in it and then bolt it up.
How does Lithium grease take the heat? I use brake crease and it does the job very well.
There's no problem as you have so very little that mixes with the oil. The intent with the grease is to fill the recess where the O-Ring doesn't. Although it would oose out around the ring and into the oil region, it's missible and doesn't adversely affect the engine lubrication.
You shouldn't goop on more than you need. :nono:
Roy...
Thanks for your advice folks. I got an o-ring (with a new Fram filter) and some white lithium greese. Heading off to the garage.
Be careful of FRAM filters. They have been known for some quality control issues on some of their cheap to mid-level oil filters. They use thin cardboard endcaps and have filter elements known to look downright scary after only normal use.
The Oil Drop (http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi) is a very knowledgeable forum dedicated to oil product quality. Feel free to search "fram oil filter quality" in their Oil section and read a few the threads. They have also done a few tests on filtration quality and Fram's always seem to have some of the worst performance here, and get beaten by many of the "uber"-cheap brands.
There is also a nice writeup on different oil filters here (http://www.lesabret.com/filters/filter.html). Frams in at 1/3 of the page, and also has a section on the bottom. The "failed" section at the bottom should be taken with a grain of salt since that particular filters history is unknown, but is still noteworthy.
I actually used a suzuki oem filter from the stealership. But they didn't have the o-ring. So I bought the Fram and just used the o-ring from that. Chucked the filter.
I just redid the entire oil change with new o-ring and all is good! I think my problem was that some grit got in between the mating surfaces of the engine and the filter cover. Probably road grime that I didn't notice. This time I gave it a thorough cleaning, switched out o-rings, used the white lithium and drained and refilled the oil again. All is good. I'm going riding.
Quote from: RedShiftThe intent with the grease is to fill the recess where the O-Ring doesn't. Although it would oose out around the ring and into the oil region, it's missible and doesn't adversely affect the engine lubrication.
You shouldn't goop on more than you need. :nono:
Roy...
I totally understand that, my question was does lithium grease burn or smoke just because of the contact with the hot engine wall?
Next time buy an oil filter that comes with a new o-ring. I know, hindsight is 20/20 :lol:
Seriously though, I pay the same price for a filter that comes with the new o-ring as one that doesn't. :dunno:
Quote from: AerospikeQuote from: RedShiftThe intent with the grease is to fill the recess where the O-Ring doesn't. Although it would oose out around the ring and into the oil region, it's missible and doesn't adversely affect the engine lubrication.
You shouldn't goop on more than you need. :nono:
Roy...
I totally understand that, my question was does lithium grease burn or smoke just because of the contact with the hot engine wall?
My experience suggests it's not hot enough in there to burn or smoke grease, though I haven't got any data. Qualitatively, I haven't noticed any problem. :)
the very 1st thing you MUST do before your oil change: WASH THE AREA of the oil cap - rinse off any road grime and build up.
i did my 1st oil change one night at around 10:30pm and did not feel like hooking up the garden hose to rinse off the bottom of the engine. the whole process took twice as long because dirt and crap got all in the areas where it should not have.
i used a k&n filter, they come with the 0-ring (i pinched the original o-ring just like you did).
Quote from: ginoethe very 1st thing you MUST do before your oil change: WASH THE AREA of the oil cap - rinse off any road grime and build up.
Good point, I just use a compressor and blow the junk off.
Quote from: weaselnozekerry is out of extra o-rings cause his last one is sitting on my desk.
What's it doing sitting on your desk? Here I am facing another oil change and you have my last O-ring sitting on your DESK? :o
(Just kidding. Remember how I recently bought a bunch of filters? I should be good for a while. I may even come up with some
more extra O-rings. :roll: )