So i have these great bars, but they are loose now, and swivel. What can i do to make this stop? duct tape, washers? ideas?
Thanks!
Matt
I don't know. Mine was oversized. I had to sand all of the powder coating off in order to get the twist throttle on the bike and for it to return back to idle. I also had to take a little coating off for everything else to fit..
Quote from: BlazinjrI don't know. Mine was oversized. I had to sand all of the powder coating off in order to get the twist throttle on the bike and for it to return back to idle. I also had to take a little coating off for everything else to fit..
+1 :)
my bars required some sanding too..
Well..... even tho your bars were too big, what do you think would be a solution for my issue?
Thanks!
Matt
Do you mean that they rotate inside of the tree mount points? I'd take some hose - radiator hose, or a little thinner, depending on how much smaller than the points they are - cut a section that's just as long as the clamps, slit them down the center, and put them around the bar. If you make the clearances tight enough that it takes a dollop of Joy and a lot of swearing to get them in, they should stay when you wash out the soap.
Per the Zen motor cycle maintenance guide use beer cans.
if they rotate in the mounts, you can do one of 3 things. change bars, make a shim, or sand the clamp blocks(LAST RESORT)
Quote from: Chris.t.CollinsPer the Zen motor cycle maintenance guide use beer cans.
From Chapter 5 of
Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance:
QuoteHis handlebars had started slipping. Not badly, he said, just a little when you shoved hard on them. [...]
When he brought his motorcycle over I got my wrenches out but then noticed that no amount of tightening would stop the slippage, because the ends of the collars were pinched shut.
"You're going to have to shim those out," I said.
"What's shim?"
"It's a thin, flat strip of metal. You just slip it around the handlebar under the collar there and it will open up the collar to where you can tighten it again. You use shims like that to make adjustments in all kinds of machines."
"Oh," he said. He was getting interested. "Good. Where do you buy them?"
"I've got some right here," I said gleefully, holding up a can of beer in my hand.
He didn't understand for a moment. Then he said, "What, the can?"
"Sure," I said, "best shim stock in the world."
I thought this was pretty clever myself. Save him a trip to God knows where to get shim stock. Save him time. Save him money.
[...] beer-can aluminum is soft and sticky, as metals go. Perfect for the application. Aluminum doesn't oxidize in wet weather...or, more precisely, it always has a thin layer of oxide that prevents any further oxidation. Also perfect.
For what it's worth.... :dunno:
Yea beer can ... Mmmmmmm Beer ...
Now dont get confused guys ... I first made 4 welds with a dfferent dia tubing ... like .85 or so ... I figured the damn powder is a good 3 hundredths+ ... so we'd be OK... and first they were made for SV's remember ... never had anything loose on an SV ... then the GS ... the switches are loose but mine fitted the triples great ... and this is the first instance of triples haveing trouble ...
Now the ones y'all got recently ... is a .88 OD one ... and as such will never be loose ... if anything its too large (whole other set of problems) ... but anyway sand it a bit and it works fine ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Kerry, you rule. I love that book