Well, not really me. The gf now has a GS, but I'll be the one working on it and playing with it in the garage.
I've been riding an SV650 for a couple years (33,000 miles in that time) and now am spending a lot of time on a DRZ400 dirtbike that I made street legal and semi-supermotarded. I found a good deal on a '95 GS 500 and have been teaching the gf to ride on my bikes, so it worked out well that the deal came along the same time we both had some money to throw together on a bike for her. And what bike could be better?
I have a few questions about the bike, I don't know if they're common or not:
1) The fuel petcock has three setting - pri, res, on. I'm confused because when I have it set to "on", it sputters and eventually dies like the valve is closed. It seems to run normal on pri and reserve. What's the deal here?
2)Idle issues: When the motor is cold the bike starts instantly with no choke and idles well around 1300-1400 rpm. After it warms up for 30 seconds - 1 minute it revs great in neutral and pulls decently when riding. But after a few minutes when the motor is fully hot it idles really high, like 3500 rpm. When it does this I'll put it in gear and let the clutch out with no throttle enough to slow the idle down to below 2k rpm, but it slowly starts to climb back up, and it does the same thing again at the next stop. At first I thought it was the throttle cable routing because it kind of hangs outside the fork legs, but it only acts up when hot so although I need to reroute the throttle cable, I don't think that's the culprit. Is this common? I'll probably pull the carbs and clean them eventually, but I don't know what may be causing the high idle.
3) What to do with the way too soft forks? My beloved SV had really crappy forks that would nearly bottom out under normal-hard braking. Switching from 5w to 20w fork oil helped a little, but later I installed RaceTech gold valve emulators and some properly rated springs and it made a world of difference. Are there RaceTech emulators for the GS? Or any other type of mod other than a Kat fork swap? I think if I just replaced the seals and oil it would feel better, but I want it better than stock.
4) What's the stock gearing? The bike came with a 39 tooth rear, and the guy threw in a 49 tooth that has been used which I'm assuming is stock. It doesn't feel like he dropped 10 teeth in the rear. Based on the power the bike has now, it seems like to go up to a 49 would make the thing a wheelie monster that flies through gears like a dirtbike. What size are the stock gears front and rear?
Thanks for any help. It's always nice to have a bike with a cult following so us black-fingernailed wrenchers without a clue can find ways to pass the weekends.
Welcome :cheers:
1. You are probably just low on gas, this bike seems to hit reserve sooner than you would expect, it's fooled many people. Otherwise your "on" fuel screen is probably clogged
2. Wild guess, good chance I'm wrong: You have bigger jets so it starts easy, but the idle is set too high to help warm it up. Set idle when warm(big knob on bottom of carbs) and use the choke if it doesn't like to idle while cold.
These bikes are known for being lean/cold blooded stock, so many people rejet richer.
3. Progressive springs and 15w oil, you can do a search for more info on that mod
4. I believe it's 16 tooth front, 39 rear stock
Quote from: jay arrThanks for any help. It's always nice to have a bike with a cult following so us black-fingernailed wrenchers without a clue can find ways to pass the weekends.
Amen.
1) Maybe you fuel lines or if you have an inline fuel filter that is cloged. Maybe ever the vacume line from the carbs has broken or loose.
2) Maybe the choke cable or slider is loose.
3) From what I hear progressive springs and an oil upgrade will help the front end dive.
4)Stock gearing for the GS is a 16t front and a 39t rear.
EDIT: dang manofthefield beat me to it, gues i type to slow :lol: And forgot to say Welcome :cheers:
So what are the three petcock settings? Primary, on and reserve? Where's off :?
Quote from: jay arrSo what are the three petcock settings? Primary, on and reserve? Where's off :?
The "off" is on the tank mounted petcock.
Quote from: jay arrSo what are the three petcock settings? Primary, on and reserve? Where's off :?
The shut off is on the pickup under the tank. No, it is not "easy" to access and is generally a PITA. You need a straight slot screwdriver to do this.
OBTW, leave the ON/PRI/RES in the ON or RES position when not running the bike. PRI will fill the carbs and perhaps overflow fuel onto the ground if just sitting around.
PRI is for Prime....as in when the bikes been in storage or sitting for a while, you set it to prime for easier starting....
....welcome to the fold....
....cheaper fork mod is to install "caps" on top of stock springs.....I bought some pvc pipe at home depot for less then $2.....saves $60+ on progressive springs....
....btw.....how much did the racetech stuff for the SV run you??....I'm going to be going that way on my SV soon....
when the bike starts to sputter and die try opening the tank. Does it allow the bike to start up again? If so, you're getting vacuum lock due to a pinched hose or clogged vent, etc.
2) No one has mentioned the idle adjust screw. Maybe it's just to the wrong place. Wait for the engine to fully warm up, then adjust it until the engine idles properly.
Quote from: rritterson2) No one has mentioned the idle adjust screw.
Manofthefield did. Err, not to be pedantic or anything. :)
I got the bike warmed up then turned down the idle screw and it seems to have been the only thing wrong. Once the bike cooled down it did idle a little low for a while, but as long as its normal...
Quote from: mastrind
....btw.....how much did the racetech stuff for the SV run you??....I'm going to be going that way on my SV soon....
For springs and emulators I think it cost about $275-$300, and well worth it. I've heard the 2nd gen SVs have better forks, so you may want to see if the stock springs have the proper spring rate for your weight and riding type to save some cash. Labor would cost quite a bit at a shop, but it's not too hard. You just have to get the damper rods out of the fork tubes and drill some holes in them - that's the hardest part. Then you have to cut the spacers to make up for the added height of the emulators. It's by far the best mod I've done to the bike. The only problem is then you really notice the low quality rear shock :guns:
Quote from: jay arr
For springs and emulators I think it cost about $275-$300, and well worth it. I've heard the 2nd gen SVs have better forks, so you may want to see if the stock springs have the proper spring rate for your weight and riding type to save some cash. Labor would cost quite a bit at a shop, but it's not too hard. You just have to get the damper rods out of the fork tubes and drill some holes in them - that's the hardest part. Then you have to cut the spacers to make up for the added height of the emulators. It's by far the best mod I've done to the bike. The only problem is then you really notice the low quality rear shock :guns:
hmm....not really worried about the rear shock....I've got a gsx-r 1k shock....I haven't put it on yet....but I will soon enough.....
.....thanx for the info....