kinda a long story but the main problem i am having is at the bottom
well the story goes as follows, i was having problems with my bike and i figured out that the carbs were acting up so Srinath was gracious enough to work on them for me. had a bunch of problems that were fixed and then the carbs were sent back to me. got the carbs back today and the same problem that i was having before they were worked on is still happening, so now i am fed up with the recent string of problem this bike is giving me. i bought the car about a year ago and it rode perfectly up untill about may of this year when i tried to do a summer maintenence. i replaced the tires, chain, sprockets, brake pads, and front brake rotor. after all of that was done (which took about a month and a half to get all together) i was finally able to ride the bike. within the first 15 miles i came to a stop sign and the bike stalled and wouldn't fire, it would turn over but would not start, and i look under the bike and see that there is gas dripping out of the left carb bowl (the float stuck i supose) and since i dont know much about bikes i just put it in my friends truck and took it home. tried to work on it and couldn't get the bike to run at all so i found this forum and had Srinath help me out by looking at the carbs and fixing them.
So here's the problem i now have: got the carbs back on the bike and start it, i get the bike started and it runs and i let it run for a couple minutes then try to ride it, the bike will feel like its missing a cylinder or something up untill about 5k rpms then it will kinda clear out and run just fine. i ride it up and down my street (about 2/10 of a mile) and the bike just stalls and has trouble starting again and if i can get it started again it wants to die on me. are there any other things that can be causing this problem besides the carbs? the bike has been down for about 4 months now (summer months mind you :x ) and now i am furious that i still can't ride my bike. if anyone has heard of this or a way to fix it please help. thanks in advance and please please help me get my bike back on the road. :(
replace your plugs $1.49 at autozone
I was just going to suggest the plugs when I saw Ktrims post. Give it a shot at least.
yes, i replaced the plugs when it started having problems. I also forgot to mention that i replaced my air filter with a foam filter, right after i put that in is when it started acting up.
Did you replace your plugs with the same it had, or hotter? My bike ran like caca with hotter plugs. :dunno:
pandy
Lemme think this over ... but answer my PM, will help point me better ...
You have any hoses un connected in your air box, drain or top one is ripped/missing ?? How does sock over air filter do ... and how does no air filter do ??/
Cool.
Srinath.
i'm gonna change the plugs again tomorow and when i get off of work today i am going to try some of the tricks with the air filter and check all of my hoses and such. not quite sure what you mean by a hotter plug though, i will admit that i am quite the noob when it comes to bikes but i am learning quickly thanks to you guys. any suggestions on what kind of plugs i can get to try some different hotness's, maybe different plugs could do the trick, i might as well get a few different types and see what may work the best. thanks again for all your help, maybe i can get this thing running by next summer :o , if i'm lucky
First of all, do NOT change the heat range of the plugs! I DOUBT that is going to do anything except make matters WORSE!
Please answer a few questions:
1. Did you rejet the carbs when you changed to the foam air filter?
2. Have you tried starting the bike with the choke on full?
3. Try to start the bike, then pull one plug. Is it wet with gas? Is it dry? Is it carbon-fouled? Tell us EXACTLY what it looks like; be specific.
4. Now pull the OTHER plug, and compare it to the first one. DO they look similar (wet / dry / carbon-fouled)? If not, what is the difference?
Do NOT let your impatience lead you down the wrong path; you're being bombarded with suggestions from well-intentioned people, and you're reading advice from people who had similar symptoms that turned out to be unrelated to your problem.
When a motorcycle won't start, check the battery first; does the horn work? If so, you have SOME electrical power, though you'll still have to do some spark-chasing to be sure it is going all the way to the plugs, but THAT comes much later. It's better (and cheaper) to do the EASY things FIRST.
OK, if you have a charged battery, the next things to consider are gas and air. So, do you have gas? Is it flowing all the way to the carbs? How do you know? What did you do to PROVE you have gas to the carbs?
OK, if you have a good battery and gas, do you have AIR? By that, I mean, do you have ENOUGH air to the engine / carbs? Do you have TOO MUCH air? The condition of the plugs will help you determine the answer to that...
Post your answers, and tell us anything else relevant you can think of. Good luck; I'll check back as often as I can for your reply.
wow, looks like i have a lot of work to do, thank you for all your sugestions and trouble shooting tips, i will definetly get back with results and i am sure to learn from this one.
Quote from: my00forestwow, looks like i have a lot of work to do, thank you for all your sugestions and trouble shooting tips, i will definetly get back with results and i am sure to learn from this one.
Now THAT is the RIGHT attitude! I'll watch for your answers to my questions (HINT), and do my best to help you get this figured out...
Good luck; take your time doing this, pay attention to what you see and hear, make good notes so you can tell us what happens as you follow those steps, BE PATIENT, and odds are good that we'll get this nailed down pretty quickly.
Quote from: Hugh JardonFirst of all, do NOT change the heat range of the plugs! I DOUBT that is going to do anything except make matters WORSE!
Please answer a few questions:
1. Did you rejet the carbs when you changed to the foam air filter?
2. Have you tried starting the bike with the choke on full?
3. Try to start the bike, then pull one plug. Is it wet with gas? Is it dry? Is it carbon-fouled? Tell us EXACTLY what it looks like; be specific.
4. Now pull the OTHER plug, and compare it to the first one. DO they look similar (wet / dry / carbon-fouled)? If not, what is the difference?
Do NOT let your impatience lead you down the wrong path; you're being bombarded with suggestions from well-intentioned people, and you're reading advice from people who had similar symptoms that turned out to be unrelated to your problem.
When a motorcycle won't start, check the battery first; does the horn work? If so, you have SOME electrical power, though you'll still have to do some spark-chasing to be sure it is going all the way to the plugs, but THAT comes much later. It's better (and cheaper) to do the EASY things FIRST.
OK, if you have a charged battery, the next things to consider are gas and air. So, do you have gas? Is it flowing all the way to the carbs? How do you know? What did you do to PROVE you have gas to the carbs?
OK, if you have a good battery and gas, do you have AIR? By that, I mean, do you have ENOUGH air to the engine / carbs? Do you have TOO MUCH air? The condition of the plugs will help you determine the answer to that...
Post your answers, and tell us anything else relevant you can think of. Good luck; I'll check back as often as I can for your reply.
OK well I sorta need to point out couple things at this point ... His carbs were re jetted - by me ... Now the heat range change - I also came up with that idea. There have been a rash of plugs (NGK's mainly) that seem to work just fine when the bike is lean (read hot) and when you jet it out of its leanness it craps out ... His bike however has had the same problems from well before the rejet ... Hotter plugs will not hurt, neither will champions in the same heat range as stock NGK's ... I am just saying to stay away from the stock NGK ... I have sent out bikes that ran perfectly with champions and 2 weeks later they are running like sheite with new NGK's in it (ask drifter8844 and ginovega about these) ... My virago also ran like a charm with Champions ... till I broke it one day, and the NGK's I put in were sheite ... then I hunted and found autolites whihc were not only bad, their threads were black and impossible to read. Then I found 1 step hotter NGK's and no problem since ... till that starter sticking incident ... I think NGK is a great plug, just that of late they seem to be getting a shade colder, and that's just enough to kill the bike at times.
The rest of your list seems sound and logical, I also advised him to do valves first ... so lets see ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Hi, srinath...
Yeah, I've seen your advice about Champions, and I agree completely. I just don't want to see him make ninety-three changes all at once, and then not have any idea about what helped and what didn't. I've used just about every brand of plug sold in the US in the last thirty years, and NGK has always been at the top of my list, except for the recent problems. FWIW, I've also had good luck with ND (NipponDenso) plugs, but Autolites :x ...
We need to take this by the numbers, so hopefully, he'll let us know what the plugs indicate, and we can try to guide him from there. Until we nail down the basics (spark, fuel, air), there is no sense in trying to rush this to a solution. If the plugs indicate a lean condition, he'll have to check intake boots etc. If they indicate no fuel, he'll have to t'shoot the carb / fuel circuit, and so on...
You know how it is; every day, someone on this forum tells someone else to rebuild the carbs, degree the cams, balance/true/shotpeen/magnaflux/weld the crank, mill the head, adjust the headlight, fenderectomy, remove the counterbalancer, reflectorectomy, install the counterbalancer, polish the rims, install some LED taillights and some pimpin' PURPLE NEONS (Hi Pandy!), decarbonize the pistons, rotate the tires, mow the lawn, polish the license plate, and balance the checkbook, and if THAT doesn't solve the problem, part it out and buy a new one. Oh, and dibs on the gauges and clusters...
Well-intentioned advice (maybe), but worthless nonetheless. It's like telling a ballplayer to hit a homerun every time at bat, and he won't strike out any more... Nowadays, people are told that they're entitled to their opinions; we'd all be a lot better off if they were ALSO told that they're entitled to keep their opinions to themselves.
Yes, that applies to me as well, but I don't bombard people with advice to bulk up my post count; I try to write detailed, informative instructions so they have something to work with, rather than have to ask nineteen extra questions to find out which metric hammer I recommend buying. I've lurked here for more than FOUR YEARS, always resisting the urge to give advice, because I've wasted far too much time posting computer repair advice in other forums; it isn't bad enough that I fix the damn things all day, I also have to punish myself at NIGHT too, over the 'net, for free...
Anyway, I'm tired of dealing with fourteen year-old pornhounds, so a few days ago, I decided to start posting here, where I'm in the company of pornhounds like davipu, pandy, and 97gs500e (the notorious racist); at least they're all old enough to have a motorcycle license, though I think 97gs500e is actually still using a learner's permit, and riding a Big Wheel... We all know you can't say enough good things about those ignorant Mid-West redneck jerky-boy peckerheads; actually, I can't say ANYTHING good about them, so I won't. 97gs500e doesn't realize it, but I have family in Lenexa, and friends in Overland Park, Olathe, Lenexa, Ft. Scott, Hays, Kanorado, Speed, Stockton, Iola (stop in and say hi to the folks at Packy the Shipper's for me!), Pittsburg, KCMO, Raytown (MO), and Excelsior Springs (MO). Several of them have been to the Applebee's where he works, and they tell me he is just as much of an immature dipshit in person as he seems to be online, which is quite an accomplishment, for him, anyway...
Well, here's hoping my00forest reports back with some informative details, so we can get him back on the road BEFORE next summer; see you in the forums.
Save humanity; :guns: a racist!
Quote from: Hugh JardonFirst of all, do NOT change the heat range of the plugs! I DOUBT that is going to do anything except make matters WORSE!
Please answer a few questions:
1. Did you rejet the carbs when you changed to the foam air filter?
2. Have you tried starting the bike with the choke on full?
3. Try to start the bike, then pull one plug. Is it wet with gas? Is it dry? Is it carbon-fouled? Tell us EXACTLY what it looks like; be specific.
4. Now pull the OTHER plug, and compare it to the first one. DO they look similar (wet / dry / carbon-fouled)? If not, what is the difference?
well i have somewhat of an answer to number one, when i changed the filter in i put on the filter oil and i think i may have put it on a little too much, so the first thing that i did was take paper towels to that and try to get some of the oil out and spread it around better so now the filter is properly oiled, while the filter was out of the bike i tried to start the bike and the same problem was happening(can't get the bike to idle on its own and when i try to ride it and give it throttle it just dies immediatley and gets bogged down) checked the compression with the plugs out and finger over the hole(clymer told me to) and compression seemed good on both cylinders, and i did try to start the bike on full choke and it does not seem to help any more than with out
ok now for what the plugs looked like after i had the bike running for about 5 min with some help :roll: . the one plug that i pulled out (came from the right side as i'm sitting on the bike) (i'm going to descibe it to you the way that my dad did to me, he grew up on dirtbikes and such so knows a little about plugs and engines) he said that the electrode is surrounded by porcelin(sp?) and on the first plug this part was black along with the rest of the plug top. the second plug that i pulled was a little cleaner and the porcelin part was white around the top (my dad said it was good) so he cleaned off the first plug a little and we tried them in the bike. the bike did start (now when i start it it has to be on prime and when it gets running i switch it back to on) and it still wouldn't idle on its own but was running. after it idled for a few mins i tried to ride it and as soon as i gave it gas it would bog down and almost die untill i let off the throttle (the choke was off btw) and then we stopped for the night.
so in the morning i am planning on getting new plugs and checking the valves as prescribed by Srinath. i hope i didn't forget anything except that i do have champion plugs in there now. ;) if i think of anything else i will post it, and thank you for even reading this and taking your time to help me out. i am incredibly appreciative and as mentioned in another post i might look into the beerpal to repay you guys :cheers: oh wait i'm only 20 :dunno: maybe next year. anyway thanks again, shane
OK you do need to look at your valves ... But ...
OK left is choclate or so colored, and right is black ...
You may have a pin hole in the vacuum line ... letting in enough air to make the left run right and right is rich and fouling ... Now that ON when you get it running ... OK why dont you try it in prime ... when the bike is running prime is fine ... How much fuel in the tank ??? Maybe low ... You think.
Cool.
Srinath.
well i guess my plan of attack for tomorrow is to..
fill gas tank
try to run in prime
get new plugs
check valves
???
any thing else to add to the list, i'm trying to go down through things easy to hard so lets see what happens and will get back to you guys tomorrow sometime, thanks again, shane
Get champion 809 plugs. Also the valves being tight will get fine once it gets hos and yea high revs will be fine, but you will not have a black or even a choclate colored plug .... they'd be white ... once it gets hot it will run like a bear ... My $$$ is on vacuum leak in the vacuum line ... if it gets a bit better in prime ... then bingo ... How about you cap off the vacuum fitting on the left carb and run it in prime ... if that gets the left plug looking like the right, and if it runs better ... bingo ... vacuum leak ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Not that this will actually help, but a few suggestions anyway...
Look for problems that are causing air leaks, especially to the carbs. Check to be sure that your air filter is properly installed, and that there are no air leaks around the intake boots, which are the tubes connecting the carbs to the cylinder head. You can spray starting fluid around them as you try to start the bike. If it starts, that means you've just found your air leak.
Which brand of air filter did you install? I can see a few problems with using an aftermarket air filter; some NEED to be sealed into the airbox with heavy grease (axle grease should work). Without the axle grease to provide an air-tight seal of the filter to the airbox, you'll have a lean condition and problems both starting and running the engine. Also, you usually have to rejet your carbs when you install the aftermarket air filters; I get the feeling that your carbs have not been rejetted to match the new air filter, and that will also cause a lean condition, and problems of this type.
Can you reinstall the OLD (original) air filter, and check to see if the engine will start? The original filter might be restrictive enough to make the engine run, and that will prove that your carbs are jetted too lean to work with the new air filter.
If you CAN'T reinstall the OLD air filter, and you're convinced that the intake boots are NOT leaking, spray starting fluid into the new air filter as you crank the engine, and see if the engine runs. If it does, that will also help to prove that your carb jetting is too lean for the new air filter.
What is bothering me so much is that you've told us that these problems began RIGHT AFTER you installed the new air filter, so I have to suspect that it is at least CONTRIBUTING to this problem in some way. Whether it is because the installation of the new air filter itself was incorrect, or because an air leak has developed between the airbox and the cylinder head, or for some other reason that hasn't registered yet, I have to believe that the new air filter is involved somehow.
My (our) hands are tied until you answer these questions; be sure to tell us about the new air filter (brand, model, etc.), and to check CAREFULLY and THOROUGHLY for the types of air leaks I've described, and report back when you can.
Good luck; I'll try to watch for your reply.
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/partslist.aspx?Bike=3312&Style=7336
this is the filter that i have in my bike now. should i bother getting one that is the real stock filter from bikebandit?
thanks, shane
oh and if you look at the picture my filter is the one all the way to the right(the black foam one)
Quote from: my00foresthttp://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/partslist.aspx?Bike=3312&Style=7336
this is the filter that i have in my bike now. should i bother getting one that is the real stock filter from bikebandit?
thanks, shane
oh and if you look at the picture my filter is the one all the way to the right(the black foam one)
Well, Shane, my question is, did you install the Uni-Filter CORRECTLY? Even though you supposedly DON'T need to re-jet (according to the webpage), you are trying to use this Uni-Filter in a motorcycle that is NOTORIOUS for poor stock jetting, and a high-flow air filter (like this one) will only make that problem even WORSE.
That is why I asked if you could re-install the stock filter; if you don't have one, we'll just have to try something else, but using the stock filter will at least let you know whether or not the bike will run, and then you'll know for sure that you'll need to rejet for the Uni-Filter.
I LIKE Uni-Filters; I've used them for a long time now (along with K&N and Dynojet), and I consider them to be as good as any filter on the market, at least for the motorcycles I've installed them on. That being said, I ALWAYS rejet (if the jetting is wrong), as soon as I get the motorcycle home. If I decide to change from one type of filter to another, I rejet again, to match the flow characteristics of the new filter.
Try to start the motorcycle with the choke ON halfway, and then again, with the choke ON all the way; does it start when you use the choke ON halfway? What about when you use the choke ON all the way?
Doing that will tell you if the jetting is a problem; if using the choke IMPROVES things, it is proof that the jetting is too LEAN. That means that you'll HAVE to either switch back to a more restrictive filter (like the stock filter; though you STILL might have to rejet), or rejet now, to match the Uni-Filter.
If the bike won't start even with the choke ON (BTW, does your choke actually WORK?), let us know, and we'll decide what to do next.
Good luck; keep us posted.
ok, well this morning i got up and went to the parts store and picked up new plugs (champion 809), starter fluid, and gas. when i got home i gapped the plugs to about .76mm and filled the gas tank. and i decided to try to put a clean rag into the air filter and started the bike. now the bike runs and there is no dead spot in the rpm range, yea :) , but now there is an eratic idle. i will get the bike to idle with the idle screw and the bike will idle at about 1500 rpm for 30-45 sec then shoot up to about 3000 or more rpms then drop after about 10 sec or so. i think i've pinpointed my one problem and now it looks like i have a bit of a diferent one. my choke does work and i get to about 5 or 6k rpms with the choke on full when the bike is at normal idle. i think my next step is to check the valves. hope you guys are ready for this new problem cause i'm getting kind of weiry of problems :( . thanks again, shane
oh and when i finally had the bike kind of running i did get a chance to ride and went about half a mile when the bike died going up a hill and stopped on a flat part thankfully and thanks to my dead battery could not start again, so i started to push. i luckily had one last downhill before the longer uphill to my house so i decided to try to bumpstart it and boom it started and i was able to ride home(still no dead spot in the rpm range :) ) so at least i was able to ride the bike about 3/4 of a mile and got some exercise on the way :lol:
Hugh:
Your post is just WRONG on so many levels.
Quote from: Hugh JardonLED taillights and some pimpin' PURPLE NEONS (Hi Pandy!), part it out and buy a new one. Oh, and dibs on the gauges and clusters...
Wanting a purple GS = suggesting pimping out a bike in purple neon? :bs: Did someone say they're parting out?? DIBS!!
Quote from: Hugh Jardonwe'd all be a lot better off if they were ALSO told that they're entitled to keep their opinions to themselves. Yes, that applies to me as well, but I don't bombard people with advice to bulk up my post count;
So, you suggest that absolutely no one speak up unless they're 80 years old and have been biking for at least 70 of those years? As for you not bombarding people with advice to bulk up your post count, I can't really speak to that part, since you only seem to have been here for mere weeks (if that....lurked for 4 years? I have a hard time believing that you'd be ABLE to be here that long w/o hating on someone! Dude, are you sure you're not just another nickname for JoeRockingChair? :)
Quote from: Hugh Jardonbecause I've wasted far too much time posting computer repair advice in other forums; it isn't bad enough that I fix the damn things all day, I also have to punish myself at NIGHT too, over the 'net, for free...
Is your time wasted because folks don't take your God-like advice to heart? If something frustrates you, don't waste your time! Problem fixed! :cheers:
Quote from: Hugh JardonAnyway, I'm tired of dealing with fourteen year-old pornhounds, so a few days ago, I decided to start posting here, where I'm in the company of pornhounds like davipu, pandy, and 97gs500e (the notorious racist);
This is simply over the top, Hugh. Do you generally introduce yourself to forums by insulting as many people as you can? You can have all the experience in the world, but if you're going to start attacking people, what little credibility you might have is going to disappear quickly. Do I have a lot of experience with bikes? No, but I'm learning, and I'm fortunate that there are many kind veterans on this board willing to help me learn. If you'll read my first post on this thread carefully, you might find that I suggested NOT changing the heat of the plugs, and it's possible that a newbie can buy the wrong plugs, so it's a simple thing to look for, and it's something that can make the bike run, in technical terms, like caca.
If you're like to be helpful to the newbies, how about doing it without slamming everyone in the process. If you want to see maturity, perhaps you need to demonstrate same. :thumb:
pandy
who hopes my00forest can use the good tips amongst the crud here, and who still lusts after a purple GS
Good job, Shane; I hope you can guess why ** I ** didn't tell you to put a rag in the air filter, but I'm REALLY glad you figured it out on your own. For obvious reasons, I didn't want to drop any hints, so you've shown me that you're following the logic here quite well.
Checking the valves can't hurt, but I don't imagine they'll be too far out of adjustment, if at all. Let us know as soon as you can.
The IMPORTANT issue for me is that you've PROVEN that the Uni-Filter is flowing too much air for the existing jetting. Once you've got the valve issue resolved, you're going to have to decide if you want to rejet for the Uni-Filter, or get another stock air filter, and probably have to rejet for that one as well.
I understand your aggravation with the problems you're having, and I want to make a suggestion on how you could really speed this up, so you can get some riding in before the snow flies. Since you'll probably have to rejet the carbs anyway, you might as well sync the carbs at the same time, or have snrinath do it for you; I imagine he could also handle the rejetting if you send him the filter, though I probably shouldn't commit him to something without his knowledge. Since he's out of work, I imagine he'll have the time to help you finish the carb work without a lot of fuss and delay, so you might as well ask him and see whether or not he wants to generate some income soon.
You've done well with this so far, but you've still got a ways to go. Think about paying srinath to speed this up for you, OK? You'll help yourself get back on the road, and he could probably use the income.
Pandy:
First of all, you posted while I was typing my last reply to Shane, so it has taken me a while to type this reply. Let me explain something to you: You first started posting here on a date very important to me, and I've really enjoyed seeing you develop and learn as a motorcyclist. You're knowledgeable and intelligent, with a lot of enthusiasm and a great sense of playfulness; I always figured you must get a lot of standing ovations in bed.
However, it seems to me you should read that entire segment again, because I wrote almost ALL of it as a JOKE! Maybe you can't see the humor in it, but I was on the phone to a girlfriend / occasional riding partner (who lurks here often) as I typed it, and SHE thought you (and davipu) would COLLAPSE from laughing while you read it; well, I've been wrong before, but DAMN! Denise was SOBER, and thought that it was a funny (though admittedly subtle) tribute to you, with your love of purple motorcycles (now SHE wants one!), and your wickedly funny sense of humor. At least it seems like you got the joke about "parting out" a perfectly good motorcycle!
Think about it; I INTENTIONALLY used the COLOR purple in the WORD purple just for YOU (and ONLY you, you sweet thing) rather than simply leaving it white, and I put only YOUR name in YELLOW, so it would standout near the purple, since (I've been told) they're complimentary colors (but what the hell do I know about colors? All I really know is that I hate disco-white wheels). It was my way of letting you know how much I enjoy reading your posts, along with most of what Dave writes, especially when he's been drinking. Maybe it was funnier to me because ** I ** was drinking for an hour or two before I started typing it, but in my defense, I can only say, DENISE LOVED IT, so I figured, OK, pandy will REALLY get a kick out of this!
I don't know what to tell you; maybe YOU should have a few drinks before you read it again; it really was written to make you laugh. I even said "HI PANDY!", hoping that you'd appreciate the singular acknowledgement! I didn't do that for anyone ELSE, did I? Gee, am I now supposed to think that you can't even tell when someone has a crush on you? I HID that in this thread INTENTIONALLY; I figured it was the best way to see if you'd LIKE popping up (unexpectedly) as the STAR of a paragraph in a thread having NOTHING to do with you! After all, we're trying to fix a jetting problem here!
As for the rest of your remarks, I simply don't have the time to address them now, but I see nothing wrong with poking fun at a racist, so I'm NOT going to apologize for doing that; there's more than enough prejudice and hatred floating around, and it's high time we called these people out, rather than pretend they don't exist.
Anyway, I have a meeting to attend, so I have to post this and run; I guess this means that you won't be going to the GS Rider's Cotillion with me this year after all; DAMN! Maybe you don't like being thought of as arm-candy, so I'll put it another way: Pandy is Dandy, but she might not have such a great sense of humor after all; what a shame! :kiss: HJ
Quote from: my00forestok, well this morning i got up and went to the parts store and picked up new plugs (champion 809), starter fluid, and gas. when i got home i gapped the plugs to about .76mm and filled the gas tank. and i decided to try to put a clean rag into the air filter and started the bike. now the bike runs and there is no dead spot in the rpm range, yea :) , but now there is an eratic idle. i will get the bike to idle with the idle screw and the bike will idle at about 1500 rpm for 30-45 sec then shoot up to about 3000 or more rpms then drop after about 10 sec or so. i think i've pinpointed my one problem and now it looks like i have a bit of a diferent one. my choke does work and i get to about 5 or 6k rpms with the choke on full when the bike is at normal idle. i think my next step is to check the valves. hope you guys are ready for this new problem cause i'm getting kind of weiry of problems :( . thanks again, shane
oh and when i finally had the bike kind of running i did get a chance to ride and went about half a mile when the bike died going up a hill and stopped on a flat part thankfully and thanks to my dead battery could not start again, so i started to push. i luckily had one last downhill before the longer uphill to my house so i decided to try to bumpstart it and boom it started and i was able to ride home(still no dead spot in the rpm range :) ) so at least i was able to ride the bike about 3/4 of a mile and got some exercise on the way :lol:
OK so rag in the filter makes it run ... OK So its a shade lean ... now how did you have a black spark plug .... try this ... lose the rag ... see how it runs, your erratic idle may be valves, you may still get air in the vacuum line, and you may have a battery sucking up enough electricity to kill it ... yea internal shorting in a battery may kill the ignition ...
So ... Battery - see how it runs.
Lose the rag ... see how it runs.
Do valves, see how it runs ...
Check or replace vacuum line - see how it runs ...
Cool.
Srinath.
my00forest:
Apologies for this thread having gone toward "Tard Farm" status through absolutely no fault of yours. :o
Hugh purports to have posted under the mistaken assumption that I'd be flattered. I have no doubt that it won't happen again (at least I hope not). :dunno:
pandy
wow, there goes this thread, but ding ding ding, time for round two. ha just kidding :lol:
but i'm going to follow Srinath's suggestions and see how things go. and my battery is actually at battery warehouse (where i bought it) and getting a free recharge. so that'll knock that out. then i'm gonna do the valves tonight and knock that out before i get the battery back tomorrow. and then i can do the rag and vacuum thing, which vacuum hose are you talking about btw. is it the one that comes out of the T on the back of the carbs? thanks again, shane
Vacuum hose comes out of left carb only ... upper front side facing the right carb ... dont tell me you left it open ... that single handed will cause all your woes ...
Cool.
Srinath.
uh oh :? , looks like i'm gonna find a schematic of where all the hoses go on and to the carb. i guess i'm lucky it runs at all. let me check on those before anything else
Quote from: my00forestuh oh :? , looks like i'm gonna find a schematic of where all the hoses go on and to the carb. i guess i'm lucky it runs at all. let me check on those before anything else
OK then, so what you did is ... let in a lot of air into the left cylinder, and none into the right via that hole, and you are also not having vacuum at petcock, whihc makes the thing not flow in any position except prime ... so no wonder ... cap that or run good hose to petcock ... the bike should run fine, ...
Oh yea do valves ... else I come by and beat you ... remember I ahve your address ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: my00forestwow, there goes this thread, but ding ding ding, time for round two. ha just kidding :lol:
:lol: Srinath is doing a darned fine job of keeping this thread on track (what's gotten into him anyway!? ;) )
pandy :cheers:
Quote from: pandyQuote from: my00forestwow, there goes this thread, but ding ding ding, time for round two. ha just kidding :lol:
:lol: Srinath is doing a darned fine job of keeping this thread on track (what's gotten into him anyway!? ;) )
pandy :cheers:
Well I used to spend 80% of my time in GD, and 15-18 in For sale ... (flanges and bars are sale posts in theory ... :lol: ) and 2% in the tarded areas ... and meet and greet and test ... never ... You came along and that whole thing went up in smoke ... (and glue :lol: ) ... But now I'm back on track ... that's what I do ... BTW he sent me his carbs, so I owe it to him to set him straight ... so the yelling and threatening to come over and beat him etc ... yea part of that ... So like send srinath some money and he'll threaten to come by and beat ya ... that's how the mafia works right ... same deal ...
Now how's the valves looking dude ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Stop blaming me for your netsurfing personal habits! :lol: Next you'll blame me for your messy house and the taxi hitting you. :guns: :P
Hope you're able to help my00forest before the mafia gets you. :P
pandy :mrgreen:
Quote from: seshadri_srinathWell I used to spend 80% of my time in GD, and 15-18 in For sale..(flanges and bars are sale posts in theory..:lol:)and 2% in the tarded areas..and meet and greet and test..never..You came along and that whole thing went up in smoke..(and glue:lol:)..But now I'm back on track..that's what I do..BTW he sent me his carbs, so I owe to him to set him straight..so the yelling and threatening to come over and beat him etc.. yea part of that..So like send srinath some money and he'll threaten to come by and beat ya..that how the mafia works right..same deal..Now how's the valves looking dude..
Quote from: pandyStop blaming me for your netsurfing personal habits! :lol: Next you'll blame me for your messy house and the taxi hitting you. :guns: :P
Hope you're able to help my00forest before the mafia gets you. :P
pandy :mrgreen:
Quote from: seshadri_srinathWell I used to spend 80% of my time in GD, and 15-18 in For sale..(flanges and bars are sale posts in theory..:lol:)and 2% in the tarded areas..and meet and greet and test..never..You came along and that whole thing went up in smoke..(and glue:lol:)..But now I'm back on track..that's what I do..BTW he sent me his carbs, so I owe to him to set him straight..so the yelling and threatening to come over and beat him etc.. yea part of that..So like send srinath some money and he'll threaten to come by and beat ya..that how the mafia works right..same deal..Now how's the valves looking dude..
The taxi hit was that terror bird or someone else seeking world domination ...
House - yea ... the mess was self engineered ...
Now netsurfing habit change = your fault ... yea It is ... OK ... Lemme refresh your memory "I'm a chick and I'm so hot, I wanna put up a pic but I am so afraid You guys will turn silly and start drooling at the Pic but I put it on BARF and you guys aren't capable of handling a hottie like me " ... Yea only took 10 pages and over a week ... :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Yea yea we're rapidly tarding this thread too ...
Cool.
Srinath.
It is a joke ... as indicated by the smiley's ... dont go get your pandies in a huge freaking knot ... :lol:
Srinath is a GIRL!!?? :?
pandy :lol: :P :lol:
Quote from: seshadri_srinath"I'm a chick and I'm so hot, I wanna put up a pic but I am so afraid You guys will turn silly and start drooling at the Pic but I put it on BARF and you guys aren't capable of handling a hottie like me "
Quote from: pandySrinath is a GIRL!!?? :?
pandy :lol: :P :lol:
Quote from: seshadri_srinath"I'm a chick and I'm so hot, I wanna put up a pic but I am so afraid You guys will turn silly and start drooling at the Pic but I put it on BARF and you guys aren't capable of handling a hottie like me "
Oy ... like talking to a freaking wall ... :x
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: seshadri_srinathOy ... like talking to a freaking wall ... :x
:lol: :lol: :lol:
ok, i checked all of the hoses and such and i can't see any problem with them. i am all out of things to do except doing the valves (please don't come and beat me up srinath :( ) is there anything else i should look for. right now my bike is running fairly well except this happens when i start it:
i first start the bike on prime, won't start on anything else, then i have to turn the idle screw up enough to get it to idle around 1500 or so and the idle will sound real weak like it wants to die. then after idleing like that for a few seconds it will start to rev up a bit and run up till about 3500rpm then when i back down the idle screw it will idle about 1500rpm again. then after a few seconds the idle will go up again until i agian back down on the idle screw. after 1 or two times of doing this it will kinda hang out between 1500 and 2000 rpms just going up and down constantly between them. just like vrom vrom vrom like i'm blipping the throttle. it will do this same thing at no matter what rpm i am at. if i hold the throttle steady at say 5000 rpm it will do it also. i can ride it and everything rides fine but this problem with my idle. i think it is something wrong with my carbs but since i'm such a noob i still don't know. would syncronizing the carbs fix this or do i have to do my valves :( ? if so who has the valve adjusting kit now? anywho me needs help once again and you guys are on your way to making me a gs pro, well maybe not. :bs:
well i finaly did it, no i didnt get it running but i did get an appointment to have my bike looked at at a stealership. thanks a bunch to you guys for helping me to try and get my bike to run properly but i am fed up and the longer i try the longer i cant ride. but i'm still gonna try and fix it but now i am going to have someone else fix it but the only problem is is that the appt is not until september 2. anyway thanks again, shane
Yea clown ... valves ...
The bike is cold, the valve clearances are tight ... one valve or more hang open ... you start it, it loses a ton of mix through that open valve ... and runs like carp (yea carp - thanks billyblackout) ... then as the thing builds temp ... it begins to expand ... now they all build heat at different rates ... valves heat up first ... then the head catches up ... ergo a perfect 0 clearance bike will start beautifully and in about 5-10 seconds run like carp, then 3-5 mins later will start running beautifully again, if you keep it idling that long by blipping the throttle ... cos once the head gets its share of the heat, the aluminum in the head will have expanded enough to completely negate the valve's expansion and then some ... so you have perfect clearance ... just more than 0 ... Been there, done that, now you are going to be a man (Please dont tell me you're a chick too ... I'd have to go open a yamn-aha maxim site then) and crack it open tommorow ... we'll get you sorted out by saturday night ... in time for blasting down the street sunday 5:30 am ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: seshadri_srinathYea clown ... valves ...The bike is cold, the valve clearances are tight ... one valve or more hang open ... you start it, it loses a ton of mix through that open valve ... and runs like carp (yea carp - thanks billyblackout)
I'm hoping that after my valve job this weekend, my bike won't run like carp anymore, too. :thumb:
pandy
i just got back from west virginia university moving my friend in so sorry i havent replied for a while. i am planning on doing the valves though but got the appointment anyway becuase they are hard to come by but i can always cancel. do i need any special tools to do the valve job? i am planning on doing the job on sunday night. any sites of interest i should look at before i start to tear my engine apart? thanks again and no i'm not a chick
check out the how too section of the main page to this site. There is a valve adjustment procedure with pics that is helpful.
hey srinath am i going to need shims and stuff to adjust my valves? can i get these at a parts store or something and i saw the how to in the how to section but i was wondering if there was a more detailed how to anywhere?
Get on the list for the east coast kit ... comes with Video starring Kerry ... watch it and booya ... you'll be a genius ... :) yea shims and tool and tweezers are in it ... if you get that ... you need nothing else ...
Cool.
Srinath.
update !!!!!
i think my father and i have finally found the problem to why my bike has not been running right. most simply put... i'm a dumbass (can i say that here, well i am anyway) one hose was not correctly placed on the carbs. the one hose that comes out of the side of one of the carbs was not where it should be. the hose is supposed to go from the side of the carb to the furthest inlet on the petcock valve turny thing. instead i had the hose go from the side of the carb to, well, no where i thought it was just a breather hose. ps. thanks to chris (MKIV) i checked the valve clearances and all checked out in spec (yey). all i have to do now is wait for my new oil pan and plug and such to ride and fix my turn signals (now don't work since i put on the new handle bars) anyway thanks to all who have helped and i'll post back up when i have a chance to ride the beast into the sunset