GStwin.com GS500 Message Forum

After reading about mysterious puddles of oil under the sidestand, I found some of my own at the same place.  The cause was likely the same -- oiling the chain.  I hadn't ever taken off the front drive sprocket cover before, so I had reason to look.

I was shocked to learn that among the oil and chain wax goop was bird seed shells.  Spent a half hour cleaning it up and realized I'd missed a golden, albeit embarrasing opportunity to photograph this process.  So I grabbed the Olympus and started over.  Here's my story of how I adjusted the clutch after opening the Drive Sprocket Cover and messed up the original adjustment:
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Here's what it looked like before opening.  The shift lever is the first bit to remove.  Requires a 10 mm wrench to remove the bolt holding it to the spline. Mark the split with a permanent marker to indicate alignment when it goes back on:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/redshift/Clutch%20Adjustment/01-BeforeOpening.jpg)

Before the drive sprocket cover comes off, need to loosen the in-line Clutch tension adjustment.  Loosen the lock nut with a 12mm wrench, moving it up to the 10mm clutch adjuster.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/redshift/Clutch%20Adjustment/02-LooseningClutchTension.jpg)

Turn the clutch adjuster clockwise, releasing tension to the clutch mechanism.  The clutch lever (handlebar) will go limp.  Once done, the in-line adjuster looked like this:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/redshift/Clutch%20Adjustment/03-Allthewayslack.jpg)

Turn attention to getting the drive sprocket cover off.  The five screws holding the drive sprocket cover are next, taking an 8mm socket.  Three are long -- two short.  Remember how they come off.  Wiggling the cover off, the drive sprocket itself sees daylight:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/redshift/Clutch%20Adjustment/04-DriveSprocketrevealed.jpg)

There's this rod sticking out to the left of the sprocket, the clutch push rod.  The pushing comes from a Clutch push mechanism on the inside of the drive sprocket cover:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/redshift/Clutch%20Adjustment/05-InsideDriveSprocketCover.jpg)

Intrigued as I am with taking things apart, I needed to know how this worked.  The push rod was not easy to push in, but it came out very easily.  I pushed it back in and left it there for the duration.

Looking at the cover insides, the spring pulls the cable down and screw mechanism closed:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/redshift/Clutch%20Adjustment/07-Clutchout.jpg)

Pulling the cable against the spring, the clutch mechanism begins to screw out, perhaps 2-3mm, pushing against that rod sticking into the transmission:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/redshift/Clutch%20Adjustment/06-Clutchin.jpg)

Amazed that this is all it takes, I set to work adjusting the three pieces -- Clutch Lever, the In-line Clutch adjustment, and the yet to be revealed Clutch Mechanism Adjustment screw.  As mentioned, the Clutch Lever is now limp:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/redshift/Clutch%20Adjustment/08-ClutchLeverunadjusted.jpg)

I have a lot of adjustment room here, and leave it.  If I was reasonable well extended, I would have pulled some slack adjustment in toward the handle.

Okay, I put a dab of grease on the push rod and the shaft of the shifter rod and bolted the sprocket cover back on.  I decide to set the middle adjustment first.  Picked a reasonable distance for the adjuster to be positioned away from the cover's edge (6-8mm) and locked it in:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/redshift/Clutch%20Adjustment/09-FinalIn-lineCableSetting.jpg)

With the drive sprocket cover back on, I take the two screws off to reveal the Clutch Mechanism Release Adjustment screw and 10mm lock nut.  Released the nut and backed off the screw until there was no resistance.  Then turned the screw in until I met resistance.  This is the point at which the push rod begins to compress the cluch mechanism  I backed off a quarter-turn and locked it in.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/redshift/Clutch%20Adjustment/10-ClutchMechReleaseAdjustment.jpg)

I didn't back off enough.  Should have been more as the clutch lever was too tight, barely moving with tension on the lever:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/redshift/Clutch%20Adjustment/11-SameLeverSetting-TooTight.jpg)

Small matter. With the lever adjuster, I dialed in a 4mm free-play in the lever before pulling in the clutch:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/redshift/Clutch%20Adjustment/12-Re-AdjustLeverFree-play.jpg)

I locked in the lever-end and put the rubber boot over the clutch lever adjuster.  Checked the drive sprocket cover bolts and re-installed the gear shift lever:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/redshift/Clutch%20Adjustment/13-ButtonupSprocketcover.jpg)

All done.  Went for a ride to ensure all operated as it should.  Job took about 20 minutes once I figured out the three degrees of adjustment freedom, not counting the 30 minutes of cleaning oily, waxy, sunflower seed-laden goop from the insides of the drive sprocket area.  Add 10 minutes if you want to play with it some before buttoning up.  All told, it took me an hour.

Equipment included paper towels, rags, WD-40 to liquify crud, a slotted head screwdriver, 8mm & 10mm sockets, 8mm, 10mm & 12mm wrenches & shop gloves.  Takes only common sense to do this, but reading a Clymer manual helps set the stage for what you'll be doing.

Hope this is useful to some of you budding wrenchers of GS500 technology.  Piece of cake, especially after you've done it once. :thumb:

Roy...

PS. I'm not a professional.  Follow these directions at your own risk.  :dunno:

Great pictures!  I think Kerry will be proud.

Every time I see a post like this, I get a little braver with respect to doing maintenance on my GS.

Thanks for taking the time  :cheers:

great tip  :thumb:

i've seen gunked up front sprockets (my own) and they're frightening  :o

You missed a couple spots of dirt there.
:P

Just kidding. Looks and reads great!

Quote from: RedShiftAfter reading about mysterious puddles of oil under the sidestand, I found some of my own at the same place.  The cause was likely the same -- oiling the chain.  I hadn't ever taken off the front drive sprocket cover before, so I had reason to look.
Before the drive sprocket cover comes off, need to loosen the in-line Clutch tension adjustment.  Loosen the lock nut with a 12mm wrench, moving it up to the 10mm clutch adjuster.

Good pics.

If you are just cleaning or changing the sprocket you don't have to touch the in-line Clutch tension adjustment unless you do need to adjust it.

For the messy stuff I got a metal pan from Walmart.  It's about 2'x4' and works really great to keep the garage floor clean when doing this kind of stuff and oil changes.

I printed this out so i can give it a shot myself, probably this Fall when its nasty, cold, and rainy it'll give me something to do.  :thumb: Thanks for the info and tips.

Glad you folks liked it.  If you thought I left a grease spot, you should have seen the Olympus camera.  (Good thing the wife didn't see it before I degreased it.)

I find that it's best to photograph the second time I do something.  Fewer re-takes.  ;)

Quote from: mp183... If you are just cleaning or changing the sprocket you don't have to touch the in-line Clutch tension adjustment unless you do need to adjust it. ...

That's true.  Unfortunately I followed the written words (Clutch Adjustment, page 79, Parts 5&6, Clymer Manual, 2002 edition) and didn't give it much of a thought before I messed up the original setting.  Provided a good learning opportunity though to fix it.

Quote from: mp183... For the messy stuff I got a metal pan from Walmart.  It's about 2'x4' and works really great to keep the garage floor clean when doing this kind of stuff and oil changes.

:thumb:
Much more recyclable than the first & second sections of the local paper that I use.

Roy...

phenomenal write up!  I need to do this myself, as my clutch is loose. . .  I will definitely be bookmarking this and coming back to it.   :thumb:

The Clutch Release Adjustment Screw is to be adjusted before the other two adjustments. The other two adjusters should be completely backed off (or seated; loose) before adjusting the screw.

I guess I can agree with you, so long as the other two points (the In-line Adjuster and the Lever Adjuster) are put in the middle of the range and the Clutch Mechanism Adjustment Screw is backed off at least half a turn.

I argue that if you go to minimum on both middle & lever ends, something is going to be extended or contracted.  I think setting everything in the middle is better to allow for minor adjustments after the fact.

Just my opinion -- others may vary.

The other two only adjust the cable. If the cable is exerting any pressure on the screw it will throw off the adjustment.

:cheers:

BTW, none of you know what I did with my spiffy metric micrometer, do ya?  :dunno: I thought it was in my toolbox.  

As normal it will probably be in the last place I look for it.  Wish I could start there first, but after the past 20 minutes I have no such luck.

Quote from: RedShiftBTW, none of you know what I did with my spiffy metric micrometer, do ya?  :dunno: I thought it was in my toolbox.

Oh man! I forgot and left it in my back pocket! I was wondering what was sticking me in the back on the ride home.  :lol:

Nice write up. If you really want to know what the insides of the clutch push mechanism look like...
 

And for a nasty GS sprocket cover (from my 90 rebuild)
 

You should (and will soon) see it now. Much cleaner!

Quote from: daneilahGreat pictures!  I think Kerry will be proud.

Yep!  Good stuff. :thumb:

Quote from: daneilahEvery time I see a post like this, I get a little braver with respect to doing maintenance on my GS.

Music to my ears (er ... eyes, I guess.) :)  Best of Luck in all your wrenching!

Quote from: starwalt

Quote from: RedShiftBTW, none of you know what I did with my spiffy metric micrometer, do ya?  :dunno: I thought it was in my toolbox.

Oh man! I forgot and left it in my back pocket! I was wondering what was sticking me in the back on the ride home.  :lol:

Nice write up. If you really want to know what the insides of the clutch push mechanism look like...
 

And for a nasty GS sprocket cover (from my 90 rebuild)
 

You should (and will soon) see it now. Much cleaner!

.... hehehe... that's exactly how mine looked the last time I took it off   :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:   .... I swear I couldn't figure out how the cow was able to take a dump inside the cover like that - I think it was the same cow that tried to take Kerry out.

Roy - you need to ride that bike through some mud or something... it looks way too clean!

I did ride through some muck!!  But since I was intending to post pictures, I didn't want to let anyone think I didn't take care of my ride so I washed it a few days before this was shot.

Quote from: Kerry

Quote from: daneilahGreat pictures! I think Kerry will be proud.

Yep! Good stuff.

Ah, shucks.  Just had a good example, 'tis all...

Guess I should cross-post this thread over in the FAQ sub-forum.  Wasn't sure the quality was up to par, but sounds like a few of the crowd like what they see here.  For those (like me) that don't have a web site to store our "how I did it" stories, it's nice that such a location exists.

Roy...

Quote from: starwalt

Quote from: RedShiftBTW, none of you know what I did with my spiffy metric micrometer, do ya?  :dunno: I thought it was in my toolbox.

Oh man! I forgot and left it in my back pocket! I was wondering what was sticking me in the back on the ride home.  :lol: ...

Ha!  Found it!!  Right where I put it for safe keeping -- hallway deacon's bench.

thanks for the info. on my list of thing to do for my 6000 maintence. well actually 6500. to busy to do it then. have time tomorrow. wish me luck first time with valve maintenance.

im moving this to the FAQ! thanks redshift.

Does anyone know when it is time to change the clutch cable(other than when it snaps)?  I would rather change it when its time than wait to be stranded somewhere.

I don't think there's a good answer to this one as there are too many factors involved.  I suggest it has a lot to do with stretch, use, whether you lubricate it regularly, and any experience you've had in a cable letting go (a form of paranoia).

I've had a similar thought on this and the throttle cables, and figure they should last a good, long time.  "How long is that?" you ask?  At least 15,000 miles (25,000 km) with occasional attention, in my opinion.

This is a question for where others will spot on it and comment.  I've posted your question in the General Discussions forum in the How Long does a Clutch Cable Last? (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=23582.0) thread.  We'll soon see if someone has fallen victim to the "stranded in the middle of nowhere due to a snapped clutch cable" scenerio.