Hi all,
I just torqued my GS500's head and checked valve lash as part of a tune up and replaced the rubber valve cover gasket for the first time in 14 years because it finally started misting oil this summer.
After replacing the rubber gasket DRY, and bolting everything back together, I took it for a ride and oil began leaking heavily from the top left of the gasket, in the valve cover area just above the left spark plug. Ugh.
Now I have to disassemble it again and hope that the gasket is just twisted but not damaged.
Any hints for getting it to be oil tight the next time?
The original gasket didn't have any sealant on it that I could see and I didn't think this one needed any. The valve cover's groove, where the gasket sits, was clean of any sealant. What do others recommend?
Thanks,
Todd
i am having the same problem now as well after i cracked loose the old seal. i used the stock one for now because it doesnt look too bad but may end up replacing it. i was thinking of using some rtv or some kind of silicone to seal it up good just in case.
any other ideas
When you replace a gasket, it's important to
-Clean the mating surfaces thoroughly. Pull off all bits of old gasket using an implement that's a softer material than the surface you're cleaning (a plastic caulk spreader works for me). Then wipe the surfaces down with yer favorite organic solvent on a rag.
-Tighten all bolts in a circle gradually. So, finger-tighten them all, then lightly torque them all, then fully torque them all.
i believe yer supposed to use some RTV on that guy. I'm guessing there was some there originally but it may look like just part of the gasket. it is very similar in colour and flexibility.
brake and parts cleaner works good to clean gasket compound off.
I had the same problem at the exact area on the valve cover as described. I just left it alone and it eventually quit leaking.
As others have both mentioned and implied, the gasket itself is designed to be applied to a CLEAN, DRY surface, which should be FLAT, with no surface damage or gouges in the metal. Pull the cover and check the gasket mating surfaces. Using RTV is a band-aid at best, not an actual solution.
Once the surface is PROPERLY cleaned and prepped, install the gasket, making sure it is well-seated in the groove all the way around the cover. Then, as roadstergal mentioned, finger-tighten the bolts, then torque them to about 75% of the recommended maximum, then finish-torque them to the proper value (don't have the figures in front of me).
The torque settings are critical; torque wrenches are made for a reason, and this is one area where it is NOT acceptable to guesstimate the tension. Like it or not, there is no such thing as a well-calibrated elbow; as long as the mating surfaces are clean and flat, the proper torque will seal everything. The gasket is actually designed to flatten out slightly under the proper torque, and THAT is what creates the oil-tight seal you seek.
Good luck; get this right, and you won't be accused of riding the Exxon-Valdez II. A well-seated gasket is a joy forever, or at least, until you have to remove it.
Can you guys actually get a torque wrench in there? I tried a small and large torque wrench along with different extensions and it just wouldn't fit on the bolts. I don't think a flexible extension would work either if memory serves me right, might even throw the reading severly off. I just used the old standby method, tightened each bolt up finger tight. Then went around in a pattern with an allen wrench tightening a little more each time until they were drawn up tight.
EDIT: It's the valve cover that I couldn't get a torque wrench on. The head bolts were no problem.
I don't think I used a torque wrench on the valve cover. I've removed it twice now to check valve clearance and it has never leaked. First time I didn't even do anything to the gasket. Just put the valve cover back on. Second time I think I cleaned of some RTV and used some new. Just getting an even clamping load seems to be the trick to prevent leaks. The manuals always say to replace gaskets and o-rings but I have re-used many o-rings/gaskets and they don't seem to leak. If the gasket is really old then maybe it's a good idea to get a new one.
Regarding torque wrench vs elbow ... sometimes you can't trust a torque wrench. I was torquing the crank case bolts on my Katana motor and snapped one using the torque wrench. It was a little longer than the others and so twisted more i guess. As far as I know they are not the torque to yield type either (the manual doesn't say they are). For small bolts, I think I will use the elbow method because it gives you better feel.
After cleaning all the surfaces, I use Hylomar sealant. (I use it on all gaskets, except the head gasket) It is non hardening (meaning you will never have to scrape all the remenants off years later) and you can return the unit to service immediately after reassembly.
You can buy it any large automotive store.
Quote from: D-DayAfter cleaning all the surfaces, I use Hylomar sealant. (I use it on all gaskets, except the head gasket) It is non hardening (meaning you will never have to scrape all the remenants off years later) and you can return the unit to service immediately after reassembly.
You can buy it any large automotive store.
I just used that stuff on my cover gaskets (side covers and oil pan) when reassembling my Katana motor. Hopefully it will eliminate the gasket scraping for next time like you say. :thumb:
I got it at Canadian tire for all you Canucks.
Hylomar is an excellent product; I've been using it for as long as I've been riding. I got my license several years before the GS500E was first produced; I KNOW I have a tube of the stuff in the garage, and one in the toolbox in my car. In fact, I can't remember the last time I DIDN'T have a tube of Hylomar somewhere close by. It is great for just about any gasket that isn't under high pressure, which is why you WOULDN'T use it on the head gasket, as D-Day has already mentioned.