GStwin.com GS500 Message Forum

Did the search and came up with these numbers for a rejet.
Pilot 22
Mid 65
Mains 147-150
Mixture screw 3.5 turns out

K&N lunchbox, and wileyco exhaust and the only mods atm

Does those numbers sound right for the mods done to the bike?

Thanks for any input.

Sorry to barge in, but I was wondering the same thing about my jet choices of 147.5/67.5/20 and my mods are:

1) Bob B ignition advance
2) Vance and Hines Full Exhaust (V12029)
3) K&N Lunchbox Filter (RU-2970)

Does this sound reasonable for my 2001 GS?

Sorry about posting this in your thread blue05twin, but I didn't want to start a completely new thread with the same question.

THANKS, BigTwin

I forgot it's an 05
Thanks again

Both numbers look allright, it's a touchy game to play

I don't know the numbers, but I just bought a stage three from Dynojet for my 96. It's got teh k&n and v&h pipes. Does anyone know anything to say to me b4 I put it in? It should be here tuesday.

Yea cancel that order, and buy mikuni jets ... or I'll sell you the kit for $20 (will cost ya closer to 17 or so buying yourself)
Cool.
Srinath.

Quote from: seshadri_srinathYea cancel that order, and buy mikuni jets ... or I'll sell you the kit for $20 (will cost ya closer to 17 or so buying yourself)
Cool.
Srinath.

Aww shaZam!, are you serious? Why did I pay 85$ for a dynojet kit? It is supposed to come with jets, slides, and all kinds of stuff. If it's not worth it, let me know. I'd love to save some money.

:guns: Dynojet...

Gah. I'm so sick of jetting questions... but I have one now. Figure I'll do the same thing these guys are, as well as throw in another question.

I'm jetting my '04 witha full Yosh pipe to 20/62.5/137.5 Sound good?

Also, Sudco (http://www.sudco.com) no longer sells to non-businesses. Any other places online that sell jets for NOT an ass load of money? Might bump the main up to 140 and the mid main up to 65.

All help appreciated!

Man, I'm really lost here. The last shop that so called 'jetted my carbs' ...put 122's as the mains. Just reading some similar posts, I know this is BS. I am pretty sure the stage 3 i ordered from Dynojet is a 135 main. I see ppl on here talking about a 145 main. WTF am I doing? I don't know sh1t about carbs and I'm starting to lose my mind. What's a good racing setup that can take a lot of abuse and mkes a lot of grunt?

Quote from: fat_sacMan, I'm really lost here. The last shop that so called 'jetted my carbs' ...put 122's as the mains. Just reading some similar posts, I know this is BS. I am pretty sure the stage 3 i ordered from Dynojet is a 135 main. I see ppl on here talking about a 145 main. WTF am I doing? I don't know sh1t about carbs and I'm starting to lose my mind. What's a good racing setup that can take a lot of abuse and mkes a lot of grunt?

Jetkits that change the needle - most of them-get by with smaller main jets since the needle is allowing more gas to flow, and depending on the kit, the numbers are not the same as for Mikuni jets.  The 145 and 150 numbers are for Mikuni jets used with stock needles.  You might well see a kit needle jetted to 135 mikuni jets run just fine - and you might also see a kit that uses its own bizarre non-standard jets list the appropriate main as 122.  Also, depending on the year of your bike the stock main jets have been anywhere from 122.5 to 130 (I think that I saw that reported for a 2005)  My 2001 had somewhere around 127.5 stock - but I long ago replaced those with larger.

My stock 01 has recently had the carby rejetted and is running #115 main jets  :o AFR is about 12.5 going from the dyno graph. NFI what make the jets are.

threadjack:

curiousity question. Why do you guys work so hard to ekk out 4-5% more power from your bikes? It doesn't seem like you'd really notice that much unless you're racing on a track, or always speeding up long straights. Plus, if all you want is more torque, swaping sprockets is a lot easier and much less guesswork.  :dunno:

It's not necessarily about power. It's about drivability. Jetting smooths out the power band so that there aren't any abrupt power hits or flat spots followed by surges. It's about smooth USEABLE power.

Is it really that much smoother? I haven't noticed my torque curve to be that abrupt. (Of course, there is a difference between 4000RPM and 8000, but it's not like a huge step between the two)

You're also supposed to be able to warm the bike up faster when you re-jet.

Jetting improves the power over the whole rev band if you do it right. It adds more low end torque, as well as more high end power. You said that sprocket changes would give you more torque, but it comes at the expense of top end, as well as speedometer misreadings.

Quote from: AlphaFire X5as well as speedometer misreadings.

How could jetting the engine affect the speedometer which reads of the front wheel?

Ok So many questions -

Fat Sac - OK 89-00 Kit has been sold by DJ for $35 in the recent past. It includes (not slides - that will make that $35 price worth it) 4 sets of main jets - totally worthless ... needles and some fooked up drill and tap that are the worst idea ever conjured up. I jet with stock needles. You need pilots - not in the DJ kit, mains and washers. I also put in allen head screws for float bowl. So they have a bunch of confusing and useless parts for their extra $$ ... and they dont give you one of the vital parts - the one that has biggest effect on startup and warm ups. I started doing jetting on carbs (parts and labor and trouble shooting as well as some minor adjustments like synch etc $40) just to make the DJ not too attractive. Check with us before you do anyhting ... I know I do and even on non GS sheite ... You've seen various crap about Virago etc from me right ... cos most stuff is generic and people set me pointing in the right direction ...
Your second question 122 mains are right about the stock size. if they used DJ's needles, and their 122 that means its more than likely its close enough for stage 1. DJ Kit 1 and 3 is in 1 box, and it has 118, 122, 128 and 134. Those work OK (IN theory cos I never run it and never did O2 sensor on it) because DJ needles are severely thin and tapered. The needle drops into the emulsion tube, make it thinner and you're effectively making the tube flow more, the mains are the other restriction in that tube, make it bigger and it flows more ... DJ has done 1/2 on needle side and 1/2 on the main. I do it all on the main. my jetting will work only with stock needle. DJ needles my jetting will be too rich.

MJM - OK I didn't read what you said till now so fat sac Its same as what mjm said.

Alphafire - I am working on a 01+ kit ... starting with WAP ... I have his carbs ... hope to get parts by next week and have him run it and let me know. Then I will train the local store monkeys to buy the right stuff for me when I call and we'll be good. Nothing like a local dealer who does exactly what we tell them ... usually that last part is where they totally let you down.

Brembo - OK no clue man. I am not up to speed on the 01 carbs yet, and 115 ... Yikes but I dont know.

Ritterson - yes its about having a bike that runs buttery smooth when its 25 degrees and when its a 100, its about starting your bike and running back into the house to finish putting your gear on and comming back to find one that has not only been running fine in the 3 mins, its also warm enough to hold perfect idle and ready to run. Its also having a bike that runs the same 2 mins into a ride as 2 hours in. It also is predictable in power delivery and in the 3K to 6K range it will actually sustain a load and accelerate even. The up high gain might be small but the rest of the range fits and starts and jerks should be gone.

Nsp - good point ... but OK lets say for fun he meant Tach vs speedo correlation ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Quote from: nsp

Quote from: AlphaFire X5as well as speedometer misreadings.

How could jetting the engine affect the speedometer which reads of the front wheel?

That isn't what I said, nsp. I said SPROCKET changes affect speedometer readings. At least they do on the bikes I've done sprocket changes on.


Also, as previously asked: Where can I buy jets where I'm not paying $10 a piece? Do I have to call Sudco?

Sorry to come across as an idiot here, but can you put thogether a kit for me, or should I just ONLY worry about the mains? I've never tuned carbs b4, I always left it to my dad. He's not living near me now, so I have to learn my own stuff. I'm going to call him anyway, but I'd love to get advice [you] from someone that knows the bike. He knows engines, not this particular motor.

Quote from: seshadri_srinathOk So many questions -

Fat Sac - OK 89-00 Kit has been sold by DJ for $35 in the recent past. It includes (not slides - that will make that $35 price worth it) 4 sets of main jets - totally worthless ... needles and some fooked up drill and tap that are the worst idea ever conjured up. I jet with stock needles. You need pilots - not in the DJ kit, mains and washers. I also put in allen head screws for float bowl. So they have a bunch of confusing and useless parts for their extra $$ ... and they dont give you one of the vital parts - the one that has biggest effect on startup and warm ups. I started doing jetting on carbs (parts and labor and trouble shooting as well as some minor adjustments like synch etc $40) just to make the DJ not too attractive. Check with us before you do anyhting ... I know I do and even on non GS sheite ... You've seen various crap about Virago etc from me right ... cos most stuff is generic and people set me pointing in the right direction ...
Your second question 122 mains are right about the stock size. if they used DJ's needles, and their 122 that means its more than likely its close enough for stage 1. DJ Kit 1 and 3 is in 1 box, and it has 118, 122, 128 and 134. Those work OK (IN theory cos I never run it and never did O2 sensor on it) because DJ needles are severely thin and tapered. The needle drops into the emulsion tube, make it thinner and you're effectively making the tube flow more, the mains are the other restriction in that tube, make it bigger and it flows more ... DJ has done 1/2 on needle side and 1/2 on the main. I do it all on the main. my jetting will work only with stock needle. DJ needles my jetting will be too rich.

Srinath.

I can do that. however if you got DJ needles, it might totally ruin the way it runs ... You may be better off send ing me the carbs ... I'll do only what needs doing ... Labor $20 and only the stuff you need I'll buy or swap around. Yea shipping back and forth is gonna cost ya ... But a kit from me may not fix any of your problems ... now what are the problems you are having??
Cool.
Srinath.

Quote from: AlphaFire X5

Quote from: nsp

Quote from: AlphaFire X5as well as speedometer misreadings.

How could jetting the engine affect the speedometer which reads off the front wheel?

That isn't what I said, nsp. I said SPROCKET changes affect speedometer readings. At least they do on the bikes I've done sprocket changes on.

O.K., I see you did say SPROCKET, I apologize.

Now, not to start an argument or anything, :) Allow me to change my question a little:

How could DOING ANYTHING to the engine (OR transmission OR back wheel) affect the speedometer which reads off the front wheel on the GS500? :dunno:

I thought Srinath had a good point until your response:

Quote from: seshadri_srinathNsp - good point ... but OK lets say for fun he meant Tach vs speedo correlation ...

Ok, I still don't know exactly what is in these carbs b/c the bikes been around the block. I got it and it wasn't running right. It has no power at all. I've been told that this bike should be able to ride a wheelie in second if you bounce and clutch it right, but the only way I can get it up is to dump it from a stand still. I also believe it has no top end. It stops pulling around 8k and never actually pulls very hard at all. I took the carbs apart to see what kind of jetting it had b/c it has a V&H pipe and a K&N filter on it. I know you have to jet it, but when I took the bowls off the bottom, it had 122's in it. I don't know what size the others are. I was told it had all the jet work done right b4 I got it. The needles look stock. The only thing that looks new at all is the main jets. I took the plugs out to see how it was running and it's super lean on one side, and fouling on the other. I tried to swap the coils and wires and there was no difference in the way the plugs looked when I pulled them. I don't want to get ripped off by DJ, I just want the bike to run right. When I pulled the cam cover off, the main caps were broken in half. I'd never seen anything like that b4 in my life.

Well, I was wrong. On the GS, changing the sprockets won't make a difference on speedo readings. However, on the last bike I did a sprocket change on, a Yamaha FZ1, the speedometer is calculated from a sensor on the counter sprocket (the one I changed), hence having a speedometer misreading with a change in sprocket size. We had to install a sensor that would correct the change in speeds.

Quote from: fat_sacOk, I still don't know exactly what is in these carbs b/c the bikes been around the block. I got it and it wasn't running right. It has no power at all. I've been told that this bike should be able to ride a wheelie in second if you bounce and clutch it right, but the only way I can get it up is to dump it from a stand still. I also believe it has no top end. It stops pulling around 8k and never actually pulls very hard at all. I took the carbs apart to see what kind of jetting it had b/c it has a V&H pipe and a K&N filter on it. I know you have to jet it, but when I took the bowls off the bottom, it had 122's in it. I don't know what size the others are. I was told it had all the jet work done right b4 I got it. The needles look stock. The only thing that looks new at all is the main jets. I took the plugs out to see how it was running and it's super lean on one side, and fouling on the other. I tried to swap the coils and wires and there was no difference in the way the plugs looked when I pulled them. I don't want to get ripped off by DJ, I just want the bike to run right. When I pulled the cam cover off, the main caps were broken in half. I'd never seen anything like that b4 in my life.

OK cam caps were broken in 1/2 ... what you mean caps ... the bike cannot even be run if its one of those things that hold the cam shafts down ... the cam shaft will fly all over the place ...
Carbs - Send it to me, if you've not cancelled on your DJ kit send it out with it. You dont look like you have a clue, I dont know how to transmit the visuals and knowledge over the internet ... might as well ...
BTW send a pic of the caps you say are broken. I am afraid to even guess
...
Cool.
Srinath.

It sucks, I know...you're right though. I hate carbs.

QuoteYou dont look like you have a clue, Srinath.

Here's the pic of the caps.

(http://img271.imageshack.us/img271/7990/bored0273az.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)

Quote from: fat_sacHere's the pic of the caps.

OK then ... youre fu*ked ... that is horrible ... cam end caps are really what keep the cam shafts from getting torn up ... they maintain a film of oil and that keeps it from making metal contact ...
Yank your cam shafts and see if the bearing layers are scored/galled ... the ends of the cam shafts too ... so ... if that's the case ... 99% your head needs a new some or other ... cam bore maybe ... who knows ... new head OK ...
And it may be the reason your bike runs like sheite ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Quote from: fat_sac....... When I pulled the cam cover off, the main caps were broken in half. I'd never seen anything like that b4 in my life.

Not good. You need a new head. Cam caps are line bored to the head. I have tried to mix caps from other several heads and they do not line up.

Here is one on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4574825844

Look at this fat_sac ...
Cool.
Srinath.

You guys are shitting me. DAMMIT !!!

was just wondering blue05twin and I are doing the rejet's ouselves and on the 05's do we still need the #4 washers or not because I  :dunno: ? thanks

Yup you most likely do ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Quote from: BOSS500was just wondering blue05twin and I are doing the rejet's ouselves and on the 05's do we still need the #4 washers or not because I  :dunno: ? thanks

#4 washer would not fit on mine, on the 04+, there should already be a washer under the needle, pulls yours and check.

tdan553527 so i won't need one what did you do just use the stock ones?

Quote from: BOSS500tdan553527 so i won't need one what did you do just use the stock ones?

Yep,  :thumb: