http://s5.yousendit.com/d.aspx?id=1GE7AA28M624L1NBRB7OEGVFAM
The main sound is a tssk (but sounds more like a tick in the video, think of a tick make by air..), at 4-5 and another at 7-8 seconds into it. There are more, but thoes are the easiest to hear. It comes from the front left of the engine) You can see that the rpm's drop with the sound. [the rpms are up because the choke is on, doesnt matter to the issues if its on or off though]
Alright, first person to tell me what it is wins! er, as for a prize, you can call yourself Sound Master for a week. :lol: :P
Also, so no one thinks it should be in spam/offtopic, I don't know the answer.
What it shouldn't be:
Valves- checked and replaced shims tonight.
Carb - did that thing a few times.
Air leak - checked/rechecked/did the spray flamible substance test too.
Sparkplug - shouldnt be, it was doing it, i replaced them, still does.
It sounds like a gasp of air. But power drops a bunch when it happens. (might be a missfire?) Makes for impossible slow control, and creates large surges when at anything over 10mph. (below that and it might drop so much power it might die, happened twice trying to ease out from a stop off up a hill.)
Before anyone says search; I think the only thing left to check is the electronics, and see if the whatever-its-called-that-powers-the-sparks is ok. (not that i know how to) I just wanted some input. Thanks.
Cam Chain Tensioner...
If you're in the Seattle area I can show you what mine sounds like...
Aw, I forgot to say that was the first thing i did to the bike.
As long as it still springs, its ok, right? Or is there a certain tightness you need it to be?
damn, i would travel down there now, if its ok. This is getting on my nerves.
I have taken the bike apart 4 times, and done the carbs twice. And I havent even gone 3 blocks on it. (i go around mine a few times, realize the problem is still there, and it goes back into pieces.)
I mean... camshaft endplay :thumb:
Ah, but that was harmless, wasnt it? It shouldnt cause engine problems, right? The engine power dies, then comes back. I figured when people would say harmless, it didnt include harmless problems, just harmless sounds.
:dunno:
Mine does it sometimes... Generally when I rev it just a little, around 2-2.5K... It'll dip the RPMs down to around 1K and come back.
I figured it was just camshaft endplay and didn't worry about it... (But, I didn't pay much for my GS)... Now I'm just used to it and avoid small revs. :dunno:
Hopefully someone smart will reply. :thumb:
But when your riding around, does it loose power then surge back up? Not just a little, alot.
Only if I'm low revved... The surges may be unrelated to the camshaft endplay... I was just trying to win the "Guess the Noise" prize. :lol:
Ah, well then.. you can have the 3rd place prize. You only owe me $0.50
I know precisely what that sounds like! It's a General Electric 16-cylinder 7FDL diesel with a loose governor rod, coked up rings, and a high idle. (At least that's what the first 4 seconds sound like.) :lol: :lol: :lol:
Sounds like misfiring to me, so it's probably an ignition problem. Can't really hear it well, but it could also be a mixture issue. If you're positive your carbs are OK, I'd check to see that the ignition system is in good order. ;)
Quote from: GeePI know precisely what that sounds like! It's a General Electric 16-cylinder 7FDL diesel with a loose governor rod, coked up rings, and a high idle. (At least that's what the first 4 seconds sound like.) :lol: :lol: :lol:
Ah, but is that a good thing or bad? :lol: :mrgreen:
Quote from: GeePSounds like misfiring to me, so it's probably an ignition problem. Can't really hear it well, but it could also be a mixture issue. If you're positive your carbs are OK, I'd check to see that the ignition system is in good order. ;)
Alright, at least one vote for ignition stuff. Now to figure out how to check that...
So... the coils and, signal generator seem fine, I think (tested via. ohms test). I did some tests around from around here, and they all say test A, and if A is no good do B, C D etc. Well for both A turned out good. There are some other electronics on the right side of the bike I havent messed with, but other along with not knowing their name, I don't know what they do.
I have swaped coils and plugs, and the problem seems to stay on the left, although it may not be one side or another. (it seems like it, but I don't have any baseline) :(. I even put in new gas. Still does it. The engine works better now; revs drops/rise and everything smoothly, it fires right up, etc. Except when it p00f/toof's. Then everything goes haywire. RPM's drop, surge, engine doesn't respond to throttle... Then when it recovers (2 secs) all seems ok. Repeats every 1-40 seconds. AAAAAAAhhhhh :x This is driving me crazy and I cant think of anything else to mess with :dunno: . Someone give me something else to check. I admit it might be something I already checked, but I think I did a fair job checking.
Ok, new diagnosis. I believe (85%), it is backfireing into the carb. I am searching currently, but not finding much so far that helps.
Quote from: goatI also get an occasional sound like there is air (exhaust or fiel/air, I don't know which) going the wrong way. It doesn't pop like a backfire, and it doesn't blow the carbs off, but it does slow the engine down a lot.
goat explains it exactly. now the problem is trying to find the solution.
Intake valve not seated or may be bent? How else could it backfire into the carb?
I have no idea at all. Even after searching forever x 2. How would the intake valve get bent? Hitting the piston? That doesn't sound likely, does it?
... great now I'm contemplating taking the engine down that far. Agg, that means taking the cams out, along with a bunch of other things that might not get back togather right.
I have no idea what could cause it. Someone else (dgyvr) on this site mentioned how to check if the vlave is bent or not:
Quote.....
Bending a valve depends on the timing setting when you were rotating the motor. There is an easy way to check for bent valve without removing the head. Pull the exhaust, carbs and plugs. Shine a light into the spark plug hole. Rotate the motor while looking into each of the in/ex ports. If you see light continuously through the cycle then you have bent a valve.
I would check the left side intake valve with the above method.
Ah, nice the infamous flashlight valve check. I saw it mentioned but didn't find how to do it, and must have given up on it. I'll do that right now.
Edit:
Well, I am not sure if it is good news or bad, but the valves check out ok. Good because: there are large points where there is no light. Bad becuase: I still don't know what is wrong.
Quote from: dgyvrRotate the motor while looking into each of the in/ex ports. If you see light continuously through the cycle then you have bent a valve.
This does mean, continuously in each port, not both at the same time, right?
Check one port at a time while rotating the engine through its complete cycle (several turns should do it) You should see light when that port is open (intake port: letting in fuel and air) and see no light when the valve is closed (intake: when the cylinder is firing and expelling the exhaust). You have to rotate the engine enough (while watching 1 valve) to make sure you don't see light during the stages the valve should be closed. It may not be it, but it is something else to check.
I know you checked the carbs but make sure the carb boots that connect the carbs to the cylinder head are on good and there aren't any holes in them. Mine was running on 1 cylinder and I found out which one by comparing the warmth of each side of the motor with my hand. Obviously you want to make sure you don't burn yourself though.
Yeah, I did the test right then.
My boots are good, tight with no cracks too.
The left side is cooler, but only a bit. At one point I could leave my hand on the right for 2 seconds, and the left for 4. But later it was more like instant on the right, and 1 second on the left. So it is cooler. It does fire though. After a long warm up session, the plugs will be black, but if I wait a long time, the left one will clean up and ash over a bit. (which I thought meant lean, but I also though lean meant hot. so.. :? :? )
Edit: here's a tidbit. I would think it was normal/ok but meh. When I took a look in the ports, I had to take off the carbs and tank. But I left the tubes connected and gas in the float bowls. The point is, when I pulled the carbs (had to tilt them alot, 80* up) out gas came out of the engine side holes. I would think this should be normal, but :dunno:.
Actually I don't know if that (gas pouring out) is normal. It hasn't happened to me when I have pulled off my carbs. Does the throttle butterfly valve (brass disk in the port of the carb) seal correctly in the carb?
Well, It would, if it closed all the way. The idle adjust screw holds them open a bit. When you pulled yours, was there gas still in the float bowls? Did you tilt the carbs or pull the straight out. I had left the air box attached to it, so it came up and then pulling the carbs up and out at an angle.
Does anyone know if it is ok for the gas to leak out of the floatbowls when the carbs are tilted? I usually read (and did it that way before) that you should empty the bowls before taking the carb out.
Well, I did some more testing, and the left side is certainly the issue. The bike can run with no left side, but not the other way around. The left does work some though, because with no left at all (pulled plug cord) the bike is very underpowered and sluggish changing rpm's. It is smooth though, no hiccups (or whatever the problem I have is).
It certainly seems like it has pops into the carb. I just don't know why. or what would cause it. Searches have turned up alot, but they all seem to end in, "well I don't know what I did, but it works great now" or <something that I already checked, like corroded connections>.
Check the vacuum caps on the top of the carbs, where you normally would sync the carbs(i believe thats what they are for). Anywasys those are on manifold vacuum side so make sure they are not cracked, I have the same problem myslef at the moment, I suspect like mine, that it is the secoundary ground that srinath always talks about. Its watting for spring for me to get to it......but let me know if you figure it out
Hmm, ok. Lets see. The little black cap things seem good. No cracks, and not brittle.
As for the secondary ground, I checked the connector. I took it apart, and made it tighter, and stuck it back togather. I also ohm tested from both sides of the connector and got really low. I don't remember exactly, but it was like 1 or 2 or so. While I was doing that, I checked the connetors on the left side for ohm's through each connector. I also did the test for the coils (primary and secondary tests) and some other tests that I found that used the other connectors there. (like the 3 wire one)
While reading outside of this site (gasp) I came upon:
1) Defective accelerator pump
- - - nope, don't think that this bike has one, and don't know where it would be.
2) Metering rods or power valve sticking or binding.
- - - nope, same as above.
3) Vacuum leak.
- - - possible, Although It would have to be bwtween the left carb and left cylinder. I have done a wd40 test there, but may do another after I post this.
4) Float level setting very low.
- - - nope, I did someone's tube and gas level test, checked out right at the seal level. (I am under the impression that that is correct)
5) Plugged up fuel filter, defective fuel pump, or swollen or kinked lines.
- - - nope, no fuel delivery problem. Should affect both sides, right?
6) Secondary air valve set wrong.
- - - nope, same as first.
7) Ignition timing retarded/wrong
- - - could be, but I don't know how to check, or what it should be. Plus it should botther both sides, right?
8) Accelerator pump nozzle has dirt in it.
- - - no idea what this means
9) Accelerator pump cup swollen up from contact with bad gas or chemicals.
- - - no idea what this means
10) Economizer jet too small or partly blocked.
- - - again, no idea
11) Choke pull-off open too far.
- - - no, choke seems fine.
12) Secondary throttle plates not closing all the way.
- - - no, don't have them (I think?)
13) Vacuum hoses hooked up wrong.
- - - only one, and I think it is working. (should work, or not, right?) (I killed the CA smog stuff. I did cap the carb's part. (hooked a hose from one to another. I don't see how this would do it, but I'll try without it after this.)
14) Idle jet partly blocked with dirt.
- - - could be, but I did clean it out. Plus, if it was blocked, it shouldnt do it intermitly, right? There should be a pattern.. (ok this goes onto the list to check, near the bottom..)
15) Distributor timing not advancing properly. (worn breaker plate, worn shaft, pin hole in diaphram, crack in hose, etc.)
- - - Do we have something like this? I think if we have one per side, it might be that, because It seems to get worse when you rise the RPM's.
16) Idle air mixture wrong.
- - - It seems to me it wouldnt cause it to backfire through the carb. Either be rich, and then actually backfire/pop or lean and be hot.. any thoughts?
17) Low speed jetting too small.
- - - I don't know how that applies to me. I would think it would be the idle air screw.. but I don't know. Plus it should be the same for both sides.. (both are at 2 turns out, It seems to respond good there; Ill tweak it to perfection later)
18) Main jet is lean.
- - - Could be, but they should be the same on both sides, so the problem should be the same on both sides.
EDIT:
19) Camshaft wrong, broken, etc.
- - - no, unless my intake cam has half of it different.
20) Ignition timing problem
- - - It sure seems like a timing problem, but other then the few parts I have checked, I am clueless as to do next.
So.. carb problems, electrical problems. ~shrug~ I should sell it on ebay "haunted bike", and make a ton of money. If anyone knows the answers or anything about any of these that I didn't, please share.
It only does it when you first crack the the throttle a little bit right?
Did you rejet?
If you did how many turns out is the idle mixture adjustment, and did you shim the needle?
first off, I would like to thank everyone from this thread.
second, I would like to thank everyone's threads I read.
third... my brother and his friend.
~IT IS FIXED~
as coll0412 said, "Check the vacuum caps on the top of the carbs"
I didn't mean to, but was instead spraying wd40 without a tank; so I could get in there better. Well I heard the sound much louder this time, and was trying to point out to my brother and his friend that happend to come around and bug me. Then it hit me. Literary! A blast of air hit my hand from the left carb's vaccum cap. THERE WAS A HUGE FREAKING HOLE IN IT >:(
I have no idea where the hole came from, but it looked like it was drilled/punched out. A perfect round hole right on top. I do not know how I passed it by before, but becuase of it's cleaness, and such, must have figured it was suppose to be like that.
So, hurray! Only 33 days after I bought it, I can finally ride around. Even it it rains like hell tomarrow, I will be out there bright and early at the statepark. I should celebrate, but I cant think of something good to do, I guess I'll just stick everything back togather and clean up my big mess.
EDIT:
ah, and for coll0412
"It only does it when you first crack the the throttle a little bit right? "
No it did it all the time, crank the throttle, no throttle, inbetween, constant, all over.
"Did you rejet?"
The bike was rejetted, to what I don't know. I just know that the pervious guy did a stage 3 to it. (or he might not have, I didn't ask, and havent checked the forums here too closely to see if he says he gave it up or something)
"If you did how many turns out is the idle mixture adjustment, and did you shim the needle?"
The mix screw is currently set at 2 turns out, I will probablly move it a bit more later, but not to much, maybe a half turn or two, maybe less. I have not taken the screw out, so I don't know if it is shimed. If you would like to know, I will look, just ask.
EDIT2:
If anyone else current/future wants to ask something, go for it, I feel like I learned a ton about this bike haveing to go through just about every part.
Yarrr....another salty pirate mistory solved.
And i would have gotten away with it if it wernt for those mettling kids and that dog.....
Quote from: NightRyderas coll0412 said, "Check the vacuum caps on the top of the carbs"
You wanna come check mine now? Looks like I have the same issue.
Check yours? It takes 12.76 seconds for me to check mine. Well maybe a bit longer. Plus my tank was unbolted, and no seat and.. yea, whatever.
How about you come up here, and I'll look at it. :)
Oh man... Wait 'til I get my cold gear set up...
How far are you? :?
heh, about 30-40 mins north (give or take an hour; if theres crazy traffic)
Btw, what makes you think I can check yours any better then you can?
Quote from: NightRyderBtw, what makes you think I can check yours any better then you can?
Link
Ah, I see. Well you solved it the same way I would have. Vice-grips. :D
Yeah... Vice'um-Grips RULE!!!
But, that's just part of my curse. I can work on Bugs like no tomorrow, but anything else I touch breaks. I guess I'm an anti-wrencher. :(
Work on bugs? VW's? Thoes aren't like in the movies, where you just smack it with a big wrench and it works?
Quote from: NightRyderWork on bugs? VW's? Thoes aren't like in the movies, where you just smack it with a big wrench and it works?
Most of the time... But, sometimes you have to turn stuff... Mostly you hit it a few times, then tighten all the bolts that are lose and you're good.
But, I also had the sweet stoner-hippy repair guide. That thing RULED!! It was written for normal people. It would tell you to warm up your engine "for a while... About as long as it takes to smoke a cigarette." or... "The engine should be cold, not just 'sat for an hour' cold, but 'sat outside all night' cold." :thumb: And it was have warnings like, "Watch out here, you'll bust your knuckles!" :mrgreen: Or... "This is hard to do... Go buy some beer for your friends to get them to help you." :lol:
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Wow I want a cool manual like that.
Usually they just say, "Do A, now B, and while you do C do F after you do D."
It had cool stoner-hippy artwork too... :lol:
Every section had something funny in it.
Did you loose it? Why all the "did"s?