I thought about removing carbs for the winter storage, so i can chechk them and clean when i have time. But i wonder if they will be ok at my home. Maybe any rubber part can lose their elasticity? What can happen?
Same goes for the K&N air filter..
Thx for any ideas in advance.
It's totally unnecessary to remove the carburetors if there't nothing wrong with them.
If I were you, just foll up the the system full of stabilized fuel and leave it for the winter as-is. Some say drain the float bowls if you want but if you prepare the machine right, it can last for the 3-4 months a bike is usually idle.
Visit the bible of storage instructions, Adam Glass' Winter Storage for Motorcycles (http://www.clarity.net/~adam/winter-storage.html), for the whole story.
Yes i know that site. It is very good. I just need to change sliders and maybe rejet. But because it is no more than 0 C (32 F) degrees in my garage and my hands are dirty i may do it better at home at my desk. Because i wont ride my bike this winter again and i have to get them off anyways to see how they are jetted, i thought why to put the carbs back in the cold.
I havent seen anything named Stabil here in europe, so maybe some experienced UK or Italian guys/girls can point an equivalent of Stabil here in europe?
Thx
But's it's absolutely *vital* to remove the blinker fluid and put "carb cozies" on....ask scratch! :mrgreen:
The bike and carbs will be fine if separated for a while. Just remember to plug the now open intakes with something fairly moisture proof to keep the damp away from the innards. And don't leave the carbs disassembled for long or heven forbid, store them disassembled as small parts have a habit of dematerializing if not attached to the carb body they belong too.
;)
Quote from: JamesGThe bike and carbs will be fine if separated for a while. Just remember to plug the now open intakes with something fairly moisture proof to keep the damp away from the innards. And don't leave the carbs disassembled for long or heven forbid, store them disassembled as small parts have a habit of dematerializing if not attached to the carb body they belong too.
;)
Dematerializing you mean losing them? Or them drying out and changing form or smthng?
I think a fairly good general rule with carbs is don't trouble them unless they trouble you or don't fix it if it ain't broke.
Have a look at a carb diagram, there are almost as many moving parts in there as in a human body!
If you do pull them, give the cylinders a spray with Fogging Oil first. This will provide extra protection from moisture pickup while idle. And when off make sure to bag or otherwise seal the engine side to prevent moisture pickup.
I subscribe to Cal's Rule of "If it ain't broke, don't fix it", but if you must -- the best of skill to you... :)
if there is nothing wrong just put some Stabyl in the gas and drain the bowls for the winter.
then in the spring, set the fuel selector to prime, and refill. the turn fuel selector to on, and start.
Quote from: Cal PriceHave a look at a carb diagram, there are almost as many moving parts in there as in a human body!
I'm pretty sure that "carburetor" is French for "don't touch it".
Thanks for the tips, i will keep them in mind.
Well there is nothing wrong with my carburators. But i bought the bike used with full aftermarket exhaust and a drop-in K&N air filter, so i want to be sure that it is jetted right. Also the air filter comes with the restriction ring in it. I would like to remove it, but i am afraid of running too lean.
I also have a restricted 33 hp version. I only have to change the black slides and it will run on full power again.
I can change the slides without taking the carbs off. But my question would be can i see the jets without taking carbs off? Else i have to take em off. And while (if) i will be waiting for the new jets to arrive i see no point placing the carbs on the bike for that time.
So can i see the jets without taking carbs off?