I have just bought a brand new GS500F and have now begun thinking about its servicing.
So I touch on that much covered issue of what oil should I use.
Living in Australia, we have plenty of hot, muggy days that combined with the GS500F being air cooled means oil choice is extrememly important.
Now the bikes manual recommends 10W-40 oil or 10W-50 for my climatic conditions.
As I am thinking of keeping this bike for the long run I am considerring using Synthetic oil (once its broken in) as it runs cooler than mineral oil.
And because we have such hot days I was thinking that Castrol Edge Sport 10W-60 synthetic would actually offer superior performance when the thermometer reaches 40 degees Celsius (in the shade!).
I know, I know its not a motorbike specific oil but doing alittle bit of research it seems that might be all just marketing hype. Its not a Fuel Conserving oil so it should be ok for use with the bikes wet clutch and for $65 AUS for 5 litres the price is reasonable.
The oil has just been made available in Australia and has a API SM rating.
Here's the link to Castrols UK websire as the Australian one hasn't been updated yet :icon_rolleyes:
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdetailmin.do?categoryId=9004871&contentId=7009118
So has anyone used this oil in their GS500? or what are your thoughts about the idea?
Castrol 10W-60 is what is recommended for use in my car (2002 BMW ///M Roadster). The engine's one of the most highly-stressed (automobile) engines out there right now. I think the motor puts out about 100hp per liter, has an 11.5:1 comp ratio, and revs to 8100 RPM (not too bad for a cage).
And I'm also pretty sure the oil's not even available in retail stores in the US, as BMW is the *only* importer of that oil to this country.
I think that's saying a lot, with BMW only putting that oil in one of their highest-performing engines.
That's what I want for my bike!
The best!!!
Sorry guys and girls, but what oils do you guys use or recommend?
Break the motor in on fossil oil then switch to SYNTHETIC OIL. I run MOBIL 1 in my 05 F it will make the engine run [ aboot ] 20% cooler plus you get instant start up lubrication for the engine. Most engine wear is on start up and the first minute of warm up .
Thanks for the reply.
I was thinking of using mineral based oil during its break in, then switching to synthetic oil after that.
What viscosity Mobil 1 do you use?
Quote from: galahs on January 10, 2006, 09:04:43 PM
I have just bought a brand new GS500F and have now begun thinking about its servicing.
So I touch on that much covered issue of what oil should I use.
Living in Australia, we have plenty of hot, muggy days that combined with the GS500F being air cooled means oil choice is extrememly important.
Now the bikes manual recommends 10W-40 oil or 10W-50 for my climatic conditions.
As I am thinking of keeping this bike for the long run I am considerring using Synthetic oil (once its broken in) as it runs cooler than mineral oil.
And because we have such hot days I was thinking that Castrol Edge Sport 10W-60 synthetic would actually offer superior performance when the thermometer reaches 40 degees Celsius (in the shade!).
I know, I know its not a motorbike specific oil but doing alittle bit of research it seems that might be all just marketing hype. Its not a Fuel Conserving oil so it should be ok for use with the bikes wet clutch and for $65 AUS for 5 litres the price is reasonable.
The oil has just been made available in Australia and has a API SM rating.
Here's the link to Castrols UK websire as the Australian one hasn't been updated yet :icon_rolleyes:
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdetailmin.do?categoryId=9004871&contentId=7009118
So has anyone used this oil in their GS500? or what are your thoughts about the idea?
Any oil after SG does not have enough of the heavy metal addiditives to adaquately protect a motorcycle engine, especially one that is air cooled.
That is one of the reasons why they make motorcycle specific oils. If you really worry about high temps, go to a 20w50 motorcycle specific oil.
I have read on many places on the internet that it is just not the case that Motorcycle specific oils arn't as good as they are claimed to be.
Any oils with the higher API ratings of SL and SM still have to meet AND exceed the requirements of an SG oil making them completely suitable for use in motorbikes.
Zinc was added in higher consentrations to the older specific oils to help prevent wear in the event of metal to metal contact when the oil thins to such an extent that it no longer offers the engine parts lubrication/protection.
With modern motor oils (designed for cars) especially the synthetics, they have a much better film strength and have a higher resistance to thermal shearing than the older spec oils meaning metal to metal contact shouldn't be a problem in most cases.
Saying that, the only motor oils (car) that should be avoided are those classified with a energy conserving rating as they are friction modified which could cause slippage in motorbikes with a wet clutch (such as the GS500).
Modern cars engines now rev much higher, run hotter and with higher compressions than they used. Therefor modern car engine oil is designed to handle higher stresses that once were only found in motorcycle engines. Mobil 1 and castrol's synthetics were designed and used in Formula 1 motors that redline at approx 20,000 rpm!
The same synthetics are subjected in champ cars not only with high revs but also from extreme levels of heat from their turbo engines.
The increased levels of Zinc in some motorbike oils are also worse for the environment when burnt as well as when disposed off.
So the days of saying all car motor oil is inferior to motorbike oil is over. A good quality automobile oil is indeed as good as a specific motorbike oil.
Well thats just my 2c's worth :icon_lol:
Here are some links to information about oils...
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm
http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
http://www.viperclub.org/articles/oilfaq.html
I also find it interesting how comon thought is not to use synthetic oils during break in, yet good automobile manufacturers like Mercedes, BMW, AUDI and HSV (Australia) fill their brand new engines with synthetics right from the word go.
well .. i'm fixing to run amsoil in my bike . unless i can find a stealer ship that sales motul ( i think thats the name of it ) the motul is supose to be some of the best stuff ( one of our parts guys at the ford place use to work at the Honda shop here ) so he knows his share on bikes :) but i dont know what you can get your hands on . you can go to amsoil.com and check there site out :)
We don't have AMSOIL in Australia O0
I would personally stick with 10w40 full synthetic rather than changing weights..
go to there site . you can order it :P get you a big 55 gallon drum :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: lol no but you can buy you a case and it will last you 4 changes :P
The fact its cold viscosity is 10W would make it suitable for use....
its 60 operating viscosity rating would mean it retains enough viscosity to protect it when the going gets tough (Hot aussie summer!).
Quote from: galahs on January 15, 2006, 09:01:58 PM
I have read on many places on the internet that it is just not the case that Motorcycle specific oils arn't as good as they are claimed to be.
Any oils with the higher API ratings of SL and SM still have to meet AND exceed the requirements of an SG oil making them completely suitable for use in motorbikes.
Zinc was added in higher consentrations to the older specific oils to help prevent wear in the event of metal to metal contact when the oil thins to such an extent that it no longer offers the engine parts lubrication/protection.
With modern motor oils (designed for cars) especially the synthetics, they have a much better film strength and have a higher resistance to thermal shearing than the older spec oils meaning metal to metal contact shouldn't be a problem in most cases.
Saying that, the only motor oils (car) that should be avoided are those classified with a energy conserving rating as they are friction modified which could cause slippage in motorbikes with a wet clutch (such as the GS500).
Modern cars engines now rev much higher, run hotter and with higher compressions than they used. Therefor modern car engine oil is designed to handle higher stresses that once were only found in motorcycle engines. Mobil 1 and castrol's synthetics were designed and used in Formula 1 motors that redline at approx 20,000 rpm!
The same synthetics are subjected in champ cars not only with high revs but also from extreme levels of heat from their turbo engines.
The increased levels of Zinc in some motorbike oils are also worse for the environment when burnt as well as when disposed off.
So the days of saying all car motor oil is inferior to motorbike oil is over. A good quality automobile oil is indeed as good as a specific motorbike oil.
Well thats just my 2c's worth :icon_lol:
Cars don't run thier transmissions in the engine oil. There is metal to metal contact on the gears, as the film strength of any oil is not sufficient to prevent it from happening. If you have a bike with a separate gear box and dry clutch (lilke most BMW bikes) it is not as much of a factor.
My full judgement on this issue of car motor oil being suitable for motorbikes is pending more research...
however it must be noted that Castrol Edge 0W-40 Synthetic IS NOT suitable for motorcycles.
From Castrols Website:
The low friction characteristics of Castrol Edge 0W-40 make it unsuitable for most motorcycles that incorporate wet clutches in combined engine and transmission systems. Castrol's prime recommendation for this application is Castrol R4 Superbike.
BOTTOM LINE SYNTHETIC OIL IS SUPERIOR ! I use MOBIL 1 in all of my vehicles.Standard weight of 15w50. Remember that the first # is the [ low temp flow indicator ] and the last # is the [ max temp indicator ] Motul and Amsoil are excellent oils but will pay [ aboot ] 30 % more.
Do you use Mobil 1 that is specific for motorbikes or regualr auto grade?
I use MOBIL ONE that I get at the local WAL-MART . Under $ 30.00 for 4.4 ltrs it has enough to do an oil change in the 500 f and DR 200 with some left over.To make a long story short YES MOBIL 1 does make motorcycle specific oils. This is only a marketing ploy as MOBIL 1 did not realize it had a market for such oils. The v-twin community hounded MOBIL 1 to produce a oil for them . MOBIL 1 put their 20w50 oil in one ltr btls with a fancy HARLEY lable on it and charges $ 14.00 CDN . It is basically the same oil .HARLEY-DAVIDSON was against synthetic oils [ use HARLEY fluids only ] UNTIL they came out with their own synthetic oil. Now it is the best stuff and it should be for 18.00 CDN a ltr . GO FIGURE.
See thats what I've heard around the place.
Most motorcycle oils are just the auto equivalent (sometimes just with added levels of zinc and a few other additives).
Thats why I'm all but certain that Castrol 10W-60 synthetic will be fine for my bike.
You have chosen an EXCELLENT OIL.You should have no problems just warm the bike up good and change oil AS THE MANUAL suggests and you should have many trouble free kms.
I think so too! :icon_mrgreen:
Thanks mate :thumb:
Well I have used this oil for a few weeks now and it seems to have been a great choice.
I let the bike reach 2200km's before putting it in (2 oil changes with Motul mineral based oil before that) as there is talk some synthetics don't allow the engine rings to bed in properly.
And I gotta say bike runs (and starts) really well.
This oil also seems to have reduced (almost eliminated) the "crunch" sound that occurred when I'd shift it into first from neutral after the bike has been started for the first time in a while.
The thicker weight oil seems to have given the bike a slightly deeper tone to the exhaust but this could just be my imagination.