When I first bought my bike a little over a year ago when you started it with full choke on it would stay on and idle. Since then a couple of visits to the shop and fiddling with the idle screw it now will most of the time not stay started. I'm sure that if I turned the idle screw up a bit that it would probably stay on, but then it would idle high when warmed up. Any ideas? Is it just the idle screw set to low or something else? :cookoo:
Hmm.. I would suggest that there might be an inbetween point.
When was the last time the sparkplugs were changed?
^ do a general tune-up, first thing. Plugs, filters and fluids.
What's the mix screw currently set at?
I haven't changed the spark plugs since I got a little over a year ago and 8,000 miles. When they were changed before that I don't know. I'll look into changing them out this weekend. I changed the oil around 1,000 miles ago. I'm not sure what the screw is set at I'll check when I get home, but after the bike is warmed up it idles around 1200.
When the GS runs poorly when cold and then is OK when warmed up, it is often an indication of a tight valve. Valve clearance increases as the bike warms up. Time to check the valves too.
As far as the idle speed goes, I find it necessary to change it a bit when it's much colder out than when it's warmer. I can adjust it when coming to a stop at a stop light or stop sign while sitting on the bike, just reach back under the carbs beneath your right thigh and find the little wheel.
I've had a spark plug cut out at high rpms a couple times before 8k miles so I always change them at 6k mile intervals now for years rather than the suggested 8k miles. Just takes a minute with them sticking out on the side and a couple plugs are less than $5.
Is the how to on valve clearance in the manual or do you ya'll know of a place where I can get some instructions?
Can I get the spark plugs at any auto store?
You might be able to get the sparkplugs at an auto parts store provided they have this brand and part number: NGK DPR8EA-9 Call first.
Which manual do you have? If you have the Clymer or Haynes manual, yes; or the Suzuki Shop Manual. If you only have the Owner's manual, no. There is also instructions on the GStwin homepage. Link soon to follow.
http://www.gstwin.com/adjust_valves.htm
You do not have to remove the airbox or carbs or the battery.
Another thing - Valves are to be adjusted every 4000 miles (easiest to remember to do in multiples of 4000 (i.e.: 8000miles, 12,000miles, 16,000miles, etc.)). You might be able to get away without doing a valve adjustment for 10,000miles, but I'd double up on my oil changes then (every 2000-3000miles). Y'know oil changes are to be done every 4000, too. Valves and oil changes every 4000 as per manufacturer suggestion.
Thank you for your help. I'll check with some local stores and see if they have them in stock.
I have the Clymer manual. How difficult is checking the valves? Being somewhat non-mechanically inclined the website link looks a bit technical.
I have been changing my oil every 3,000 miles, but I'm not really up on what else needs to be done semi-regular outside of lubing the chain. Thank you for all your help.
Here's the link to the Maintenance schedule: http://www.gstwin.com/maintenance_info.htm
Clink the links on the left for specifics on what needs to be done at each interval.
Also, the manual has the maintenance schedule in the first or second chapter.