I just bought a non-running 2000 GS500 and I can't get the fuel lid to open. I've tried both keys (original Suzuki, not copies) and the lock won't turn more than 1/8". Is there some trick to it? The bike's been sitting a while, so the lock mechanism might be frozen. What's my next step? Can I remove the allen bolts that hold the lid to the tank and remove the lid for cleaning/replacement? I sprayed penetrating oil into the lock so maybe that will do the trick. Anybody ever seen this problem before?
-M
I have to push down on my fuel lid in order to turn the key. Both open and close work this way for me.
:cheers:
thanks for the reply. I just tried pushing down on the lid and it doesn't budge. The key still does not turn in the lock.
:dunno_white:
-M
Blowtorch. Works every time! :thumb:
I'm kidding! Don't do it! Don't do it! Don't do it!
WD40 has worked on lots of other stuff, give it a try...
Is the key actually turning, or is the whole darn thing frozen?
The key turns about 1/8" and stops. I'm not sure how far it's supposed to turn, does it turn completely horizontally on your bike? This is very frustrating...
Push down HARD. Wiggle the key back and forth gently. :thumb:
There's a little cam in there that can get rusty and prevent normal operation. It will eventually work, but you have to play with it. Mine was a non-runner as well, and took me about half an hour to open it the first time.
Just don't twist the key off!
yea, that's what I'm worried about; the key is already starting to bend a bit. Can anybody comment on removing the lid from the tank? It looks like those 8 bolts hold it on but I'm not sure if it's epoxied or something. I think tackling the mechanism from the underside might be necessary.
edit - now I'm also worried that the inside of the tank might be rusted to shaZam! if the fuel lid is already stuck. I guess this might turn out to be a bigger project than I expected.
My bike sat for 10 years! :o I didnt want to bust the key off trying to open it so I had to bust out the cordless drill and widen the key hole. I made it fat enough to stick a pretty heavy duty screwdriver in it turned it and I got it open no problem.. and with the handly little cover over the keyhole.. you cant even tell its drilled out.. and once I got it loosened up, I can open it with the key... It will open with any key, but I am not to worried about someone stealing 5 gal of gas :thumb:
Quote from: Mandres on February 04, 2006, 06:25:53 PM
yea, that's what I'm worried about; the key is already starting to bend a bit. Can anybody comment on removing the lid from the tank? It looks like those 8 bolts hold it on but I'm not sure if it's epoxied or something. I think tackling the mechanism from the underside might be necessary.
edit - now I'm also worried that the inside of the tank might be rusted to shaZam! if the fuel lid is already stuck. I guess this might turn out to be a bigger project than I expected.
Mine's a runner that sat for 1.5 years, and it's a big enough project....
I've not taken my lid off, but it seems to be a fairly straightforward thing judging from the fiches I've seen.
OK, as a locksmith I have gotten into my share of gas tanks without keys. If the bike has sat for some time, I would recomend lubricating the lock with something that is not WD40. It is a fish based oil, that attracts dust and will ultimately make things worse. There are only 2 lubricants that I will use in any type of lock. Tri Flow and LPS. First, I would push the dust shield over the lock to the side with a small piece of metal like a paper clip. Then, I would apply the lubricant, and allow it to sit for a few minutes. I would then repeat the process and immediately try the key that 'should' work the lock. Try turning it in both directions while wiggling it up and down. At this point, if the lock doesn't open, try the other key. If it still does not work, take the original key, place it in the lock, and lightly tap on it with the handle of a screwdriver. Now try both keys again. If it still does not work, I would recomend that you call a locksmith and see if you can bring it by for them to look at. Although, you can get gas caps with keys off e-bay for real cheap, so drilling the lock my be a better oprion. Simply removing the bolts in the ring will only allow the ring to pivot upwards, as the lock retains the plug in the tank. Drilling will allow you to turn the cap with a screwdriver and remove it from the bike. You can now replace it, or live with the drilled cap.
aplitz - that was a really good, informative response :thumb:
Is it possible that this lock has been changed before and the keys you have do not fit it? I doubt that is the problem, but can this possibility be ruled out or not?
Thanks for the great info! As far as I know the keys I have are the correct ones. The key fits snugly into the lock, it feels like it's supposed to be there. I will try your advice tomorrow aplitz, where should I shop for Tri Flow or LPS lubricants? If that doesn't do the trick I guess it's time to drill. How deep do I need to drill into the cylinder? The presence of gas fumes near a power drill makes me very nervous :o
Quote from: Mandres on February 04, 2006, 06:25:53 PMCan anybody comment on removing the lid from the tank? It looks like those 8 bolts hold it on but I'm not sure if it's epoxied or something. I think tackling the mechanism from the underside might be necessary.
You might try that. I just looked at mine. About half of the screws are decorative only. The other half go through spacers to the back side of the flange. I suspect there are nutplates on the inside of the flange. It would certainly be better than drilling on it.
I do recall considering all those screws and contemplating removal by that method. That's when I decided to try the key one last time. :icon_rolleyes:
Quote from: aplitz on February 04, 2006, 09:15:09 PM
Simply removing the bolts in the ring will only allow the ring to pivot upwards, as the lock retains the plug in the tank.
Good point. I wasn't thinking about what the gas cap lock onto....
Quote from: Mandres on February 04, 2006, 10:36:17 PM
Thanks for the great info! As far as I know the keys I have are the correct ones. The key fits snugly into the lock, it feels like it's supposed to be there. I will try your advice tomorrow aplitz, where should I shop for Tri Flow or LPS lubricants? If that doesn't do the trick I guess it's time to drill. How deep do I need to drill into the cylinder? The presence of gas fumes near a power drill makes me very nervous :o
Many hardware stores and automotive suppliers carry TriFlow. Before buying it wholesale, I used to buy it at my local NAPA. If you drill, you will want to go slowly, and count the wafers as you drill through them. If I remember correctly, the GS has 5 wafers. The drill will catch, surge, catch as you drill through them. Count the times that it catches, and stop before you blow past the last one. I would do this only as a last resort, as I would rather not set myself on fire to get the tank open. Best of luck.
Don't forget, TriFlow has been used for years at the bicycle shops. I remember how it smelled like weird bananas...
When I use Triflow and my customers mention the smell, I always say something about banannas, and they look at me like I'm bannanas. I'm glad that I'm not the only one who thinks it smells like banannas.
On my 94 GS, i have to not only push the tank cap down hard but once the key is in fully, lift it up 1 or 2mm then it turns....
Ok, as of today I took the tank off and drained all the fuel that I could. I'm going to shop for some good lube tomorrow and, if that doesn't work, it's time to drill. Anybody know where I can get a replacement fuel lid + key for cheap? Someone mentioned e-bay but I'm not sure what to search for.
Mine did something similar last year, something inside broke and jammed.
I took bike to a locksmith who picked it somehow, he then disassembled it and found out that it was the key return spring that broke.
He removed broken spring (didn't have another spring so just put it back together without it).
Key works fine now, just have to turn it back manually to take it out.
(Took him about 15 minutes total and he only charged me $10.00 to pay for lunch. :thumb:)
Update:
ok tonight I drilled out the lock and found out what the problem was. On the bottom side of the gas cap is a flange that moves in and out as the lock is opened/closed and holds the cap to the tank. This flange mechism is hopelessy clogged with a couple of years worth of crap; it's totally frozen. In the process of disassembling the unit further I also managed to destroy a gasket on the underside. It's time to call it a loss and source a replacement on e-bay. Thanks for the help everyone.
-M