DONT OVERTIGHTEN - every oilchange instruction set has this sentence in it.
Long story short, I overtightened the upper left nut of the oil filter cap and broke off the screw onto which it is supposed to attach :mad: . Do you guys know what assembly I need to replace to get it back? I suppose I have to drain the oil again...
Thanks
oh man...a search would help you prevent this sorta thing....but now worries...from what ive read before...just grab the remaining screw (with some pliers)...remove it..and replace with a new one...oh do a search to confirm.... :cheers:
Yeah... I'm pretty sure the stud that broke will screw out of the bike its self. (use plyers... screw out drill bit... etc) You should be able to re-order the part and just screw a new one in. I hope this helps...
By the way.... here's the part number:
01421-06208
Here's the link to the specific page for mrcycles... (they sell it for 1.12)
http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?category=Motorcycles&make=Suzuki&year=1992&fveh=2103
Look under the section entitled "oil filter" and its number 12 on the list of parts
good luck
Austin
That's it, thanks for your help! I am relieved to see that it's an easy replacement, although it took quiet a while to get the chopped stud out, bent as it was. Guess I am on the sidelines 'till the part arives. Will be more careful next time.
Thanks again for the information
Oh dear! another one. I have not done this on my GS but I have done something very similar on another bike, what makes me see red is that this is simply a crap piece of design, my 25 year old Yamaha actually gives a torque setting for the oil filter cover :thumb: so i don't see why the owners manual on the GS could not have been more specific than "Tighten securely but do not overtighten" :mad:
Some while back one of the regular board member posted a chart showing suggested torque to size of bolt-stud-screw, I often wish I could find it again as I have been known to be a bit heavy-handed now and again :cookoo:
Oh, and any idea how to screw in the stud once it comes in? I would be afraid of using pliers, as I've seen what I've done with the thread when taking the broken stud out. I was thinking of using two nuts (if I can find the right size) and then using a wrench on the top nut and screw it in this way. If anyone has a better suggestion I would certainly be glad to hear it, as I find myself dealing with broken screws pretty often these days :dunno_white:
You don't have to drain all the oil... Just put a bucket under the filter cover before taking the other bolts out. And once you have it all buttoned up with the new stuff, run it for a minute and check your oil again. Fill as needed.
Take the old stud out with vice-grips or plyers.
Put the new one in with your hand... If you want it in there tigher, you can put the nut on the end of it... But, you don't need it very tight at all.
Think: SNUG... Not tight. :thumb: Trust the rubber seal to keep the oil in... Just over hand-tight is plenty.
YIKES. Judging by your posts I assume you got it out without too much trouble....I was out for 2 weeks tryin to get mine out, I ended up having to drill the old stud out and loctiting the new one in there and hoping I never do that again....Ugh. Bad memories.
I spent a few hours trying to get it out, but now I see that it's not that bad, comparatively
I was finally able to unscrew it by using a combination of plyers and channel lock keys. I locked the channel locks around plyers handles and turned SLOWLY. After a couple of complete rotations it went easy. Needless to say nothing was left of the threads where plyers gripped.
I learned a lesson from this one- the easy part is getting the busted stud out by making what's called a jam-nut (if you have enough threads) get 2 nuts on the threads and use an open wrench counterclockwise on the inside one as the force of the inside nut cannot turn the outer one, and you'll hopefully break it free. However, I made a quick fix by putting some metric equivalent bolt from home depot to tighten her down. 3 months later I got a nasty oil leak and would retighten. Apparently the retightening expanded the threads and hole enough, so I now have a professionally bored helical set anchoring all 3 studs- no leak, but about $150 shop labor as I'm not a machinist. Helical set anchors are supposed to be harder than the metal they are bored into, on the plus side.
This same thing happened to me today, and I knew not to overtighten it!
I thought, "ok let me just make sure it's snug...*snap* ... damnit!"
I used 2 nuts to get the stud out and I replaced it with a bolt ( 6mm X 1.00). I'll add oil and fire it up tomorrow.
I'm glad I found this thread though! I was thinking of how I'm going to have to tow the bike to dealer :laugh:
Hmm.
I've been thinking about turning a bit of aluminum so a normal screw on filter would work.
Shouldn't be too hard to pop in a new stud.
:thumb:
I ordered a spare set just as a precaution from reading this forum before I did my first oil change. Haven't needed any so far... we'll see. They don't need to be very tight, that's for sure.
We have a WELL STOCKED hardware store locally, where I go for stainless carb bowl screws etc., and I was surprised to see that they had these, in a bin labeled "automotive studs". If you've got a good, real hardware store (not a "home" store) nearby, it might save you some time over ordering.
The last time I broke a bolt off (which I'm ashamed to say was recently), there was about an eighth of an inch protruding. I thought I might be in trouble, and if I'd grabbed a pair of pliers or vice-grips I might have been, but the first thing I came across in the tools was a cheap-but-sharp pair of Chinese dykes (wirecutters, sorta). Grabbed that protruding eighth-inch with the tips, they cut in deep, and turned it out with no problem at all. That'll be the first thing I try next time.
Hi there,
Just so you know for the future, the proper torque for the three oil filter cover nuts is 60 inch-pounds each. That's really NOT a lot, so if it feels loose to you and you want to give it just a bit more, DON'T DO IT. Trust the torque wrench and that's fine. I use a Craftsman clicker-type torque wrench for accuracy.
Be sure to use a proper inch-pounds torque wrench, NOT a FOOT-POUNDS wrench to cinch them up.
Best wishes,
Todd