Okay, I've been trying my hardest to roll on and roll off of the throttle smoothly. However, my throttle has 3 basic positions: Engine brake, maintain speed/accelerate slightly, and punch it, Margaret! The transition between the maintain and punch it isn't too much of a problem. However, there is a distinct point where the engine brakes. I can't seem to transition smoothly at all, no matter how slowly I roll on or off. Is this normal, does something in the carb need adjusted, or am I doing something wrong?
Carb: Jets 40/127.5, K&N in the airbox, needle valves adjusted 1.25mm, stock exhaust.
It's normal and is something you'll actually accustom to after some good experience on the bike. Some joints do make throttle inserts to help with it, but it increases over-all rotation of the throttle to WOT. Most people actually install inserts to reduce the rotation.
You need to feather the clutch for those transitions. Carb synch and proper chain adjustment help.
Quote from: scratch on March 15, 2006, 04:38:27 PMYou need to feather the clutch for those transitions. Carb synch and proper chain adjustment help.
Why you always gotta say what I was gonna say before I say it? :icon_confused:
-> Work the clutch
-> Check your chain tension
It's all in the timing. :cheers: And, great minds think alike.
Timing of the clutch is key, too. Too early and you get that empty "I've got no power" feeling, the bike sags and sulks like an abused child. Too late and you might as well as not even had thought about feathering the clutch.
I checked the chain. It's a little loose (about 1.4"), so that could be part of the problem. I also need to properly synch the carbs, but that requires the valve adjustment that I haven't done yet.
I've always wondered about this. Thanks for the info!
Is this more of a problem with twin-cylinder bikes which have greater engine-breaking?
How about V-twins versus parallel twins?
Mike
My TL has a really sharp transition between decel/cruise/accel...so much though that last weekend left Kalee clutching after I'd accidently rolled on a bit too sharply. My Ninja 500 is a lot more tame...it's actually pretty smooth, but it's running pig rich all over the place.
Part of the free play in the drive train is chain slack, yes. Unfortunately an even more pronounced effect can not be compensated: the play in the claw couplings in the gearbox. Since the sprocket can rotate about 15 degrees between push and pull operation, that much play will always be present.
It's annoying, too. I love it when I accidentally enter a roundabout in 1st.
Check the slack in the throttle cable. There should be very little to no free play in the throttle from full closed to when you feel the resistance of the carbs' return spring. With the engine running, there should be only a slight delay (caused by engine flywheel inertia) in when you add throttle and when you see the tach respond.