Alright, I took the carbs apart, cleaned them all out, put the new jets (one size up from stock), put a #4 washer under each needle (think I got it in the right place lol) and got it all back together.
Had a bit of a hassle turning the mixture screws out 3 turns, but got it.
Now my problem is that I can't get it to stay on without the choke being on.
I definitely warmed it up enough.
Also, no matter which way I turned the idle mixture screw, it didn't seem to make a difference in the idle (odd?)
So, I have to have the choke about 1/4 on or else the rpms drop till it dies.
Err...I take that back...If I turn it way to the left (clockwise if you are looking down on it), when I blip the throttle, it hangs and tries to explode itself.
OK, so anyone know what my problem may be?
BTW, sorry for the very not well put together paragraph....my mind is just kinda on empty right now :mad:
Thanks,
Scott
Since you don't mention it at all: Have you adjusted idle RPM? (The large thumbscrew between the carbs looking down?)
Yes man, dont adjust Idle rpm with air mixture scrue. Leave it at 3 turns out and screw with that Idle adjustment thingie.
By "idle mixture screw", I meant the long thumb screw (sorry, don't know the actual name of it).
I put the two air mixture screws out three turns (actually was a pain in the ass 'cause I couldn't find a screwdriver that would fit....'cause I didn't do it when the carbs were off)
So, for the most part, now matter what I do with the thumb screw, I can't get it to stay running without 1/4 choke.
Occasionally it will get a little rpm surge and rev up to 6k or so, and turning off the choke fixes that, but subsequently kills the engine.
I'm so confused :dunno_white:
To adjust the idle mixture screws, get a screwdriver bit that will fit, and put it in a 1/4" socket. That way you'll have something relatively large to hold onto and turn that will fit in the area you're given.
As far as the idle speed adjustment screw, there will be a point when you're screwing it out that it won't adjust any lower. This is because the throttle is being stopped by other parts obstructing it. If you screw it in, it will eventually contact the throttle, and it will cause the idle speed to increase.
So if it turn it to the right, that's in? And the left if out?
I guess that implies that I just have to mess with the settings a little more then? :icon_confused:
Lefty Loosey Righty Tighty. :)
You turn it right (counterclockwise looking down) to increase the idle speed.
Alright....I turn it all the way in, and it barely runs with the choke off...but runs really really really rich.
It also isn't running all to smoothly.
Do I need to reset the two idle screws or something?
This is getting kind of frustrating :mad:
Set the mixture screws to 3 turns out. Ride the bike til fully warm. Set the idle to 1300rpms using the idle screw with the choke off.
How do you know it's rich?
yea, your terminology is confusing. Set the two mixture screws (at the bottoms of the carbs) to 2.5-3 turns out and leave them. Then use the long idle screw to set the idle (once the engine is warm with the choke off).
-M
Sorry about the confusing terminology. I have the mixture screws set to a little under 3 turns out.
I have the idle screw set all the way in at the moment; anything less and it wont run.
I know it's rich because of the smell, and the rather thick black smoke coming out the back.
**Edit** Alright, apparently my "three turns" was more like 5....But I still have the same problem. It wont keep running unless I have the idle screw (the big one) set all the way in. And when it's like that, there's lots of black smoke and a strong smell of uncombusted gas (hence the running rich). I'm really at a loss right now.
Thick black smoke! Bad! That's like burning oil!
I think we need to start over by taking the carbs off and setting the float levels, seating the mixture screws, unseating the idle screw, making sure the needles are sliding in their jets ok and are not hanging up.
Next, why is it billowing black smoke? Actually, lets solve this first!
Quote from: scratch on March 16, 2006, 03:32:21 PM
Thick black smoke! Bad! That's like burning oil!
I think we need to start over by taking the carbs off and setting the float levels, seating the mixture screws, unseating the idle screw, making sure the needles are sliding in their jets ok and are not hanging up.
Next, why is it billowing black smoke? Actually, lets solve this first!
Took the carbs off again, reset the mixture screws, unscrewed them a little less this time (2.5 turns, and BEFORE I put the carb back on the bike), checked the float height, made sure the jets didn't get something in them, put it all back together, turned the idle screw all the way out, put the carbs on, and tried again.
A little better, but for the most part the same results. It will run with the choke off, but the idle screw has to be almost all the way in. And it puts out a little black smoke, and smells really bad (smells like raw gas).
Also, if I try to blip the throttle, it hesitates before the revs go up.
I really don't know what else I can do besides trying to put it back together the way it was (with the smaller jets) :dunno_white: :oops:
Do your pilot jets have little holes on the sides? If so, this is what is making your bike run so rich. You need NON-bleeder type pilot jets.
Also, I didn't expect you to go out there and work so quickly, man, you'd be great as a mechanic at a motorcycle garage. Anyways, I was going to suggest that you also static synchronize your butterfly valves (this helps balance the vaccum between the carburetors by ensuring your butterfly valves open at the same time, the same amount).
Quote from: scratch on March 16, 2006, 05:54:19 PM
Do your pilot jets have little holes on the sides? If so, this is what is making your bike run so rich. You need NON-bleeder type pilot jets.
Hmm....interesting...
I'll have to check that out tomorrow (I'm sure I can get everything taken apart and put back together in the 1.5 hours of day light I have after I get off work).
If I do have the wrong ones, would I be able to keep the larger mains in there and just use the stock pilots until I get the new ones?
Yes. Also, see edit above, in my previous post.
Quote from: scratch on March 16, 2006, 05:54:19 PM
Do your pilot jets have little holes on the sides? If so, this is what is making your bike run so rich. You need NON-bleeder type pilot jets.
Also, I didn't expect you to go out there and work so quickly, man, you'd be great as a mechanic at a motorcycle garage. Anyways, I was going to suggest that you also static synchronize your butterfly valves (this helps balance the vaccum between the carburetors by ensuring your butterfly valves open at the same time, the same amount).
Heh, sometimes my quick work is careless work...And I think it was only quick because I've done it about 10 times between today and yesterday.
And as far as synchronizing the butterfly valves...I tried to do that as best I could as well.
I pretty much just eyed it. I would open them all the way, and see if one was at a different angle, and I would do the same when they were closed...Hopefully that worked :laugh:
I put the old pilots in (you were right scratch, I got the wrong ones)...However, now my bike will run, but if I try to give it any throttle, it gurgles and dies.....
Why can't the misery of not riding end!!!!
Sounds like your original pilot jets might be clogged. Did you check them before you put them in?