Just got my 95 GS500E today, was riding it around town getting used to it. One problem that happend to me twice, I would downshift to neuteral coast up to a stop and then when it was clear I would go to shift into neuteral but it wouldn't go for it, so I tried shifting up and back down, again no first. I got it going on accident when I was slowly releasing the clutch and trying to shift to first, well it worked but also made for a nice jerk and kill of the engine. Anyone else experince this problem, I check the faq but didn't see anything on the first page.. admittily I didn't search page after page. Thanks for the help.
try slightly rolling forward or backwards alittle bit, and then shifting.
will do, is it just one of those things? My truck has done the same thing in the past, my last car did it more though. I found that just slowly releasing the clutch while trying to engauge the gear worked best. Just curious if this is the manifest of a bigger problem.
I can ride for hours and never touch neutral. When coasting to a light, I usually kick it into first gear and keep the clutch in. Not only is this the safest method (able to get out of the way if something happens) but it's also the easiest method that I've found.
-Turd.
Yes, I was always taught to throw it into first so you can make a quick getaway if needbe, was just nursing a idle problem that seems to have cleared up on it's own. Thanks for the quick replys.
Quote from: Turd Ferguson on April 20, 2006, 09:11:01 PM
I can ride for hours and never touch neutral. When coasting to a light, I usually kick it into first gear and keep the clutch in. Not only is this the safest method (able to get out of the way if something happens) but it's also the easiest method that I've found.
-Turd.
this is my favorite method, unless its a stop light that I know is a "long one", or I show up and have to wait for a Green Arrow
Quote from: NWDave on April 20, 2006, 09:17:36 PM
Yes, I was always taught to throw it into first so you can make a quick getaway if needbe, was just nursing a idle problem that seems to have cleared up on it's own. Thanks for the quick replys.
Gotcha, my bad.
Yeah, someone on here gave out a good method once and I've used it every time I have the problem you were describing. Simply let the clutch out, pull it back in and try again. This usually works for me but I will roll the bike backwards or forwards a few inches if it doesn't.
Hope you're liking the GS!
-Turd.
letting out the clutch works for me and is easier than rolling the bike.
What also helps is feathering the clutch a tiny bit while switching into first. It doesn't have to be as much that you get a jerk / kill the engine.
Also, it would be a good idea to check your oil level, and check it weekly.
Check check and check. Had the problem again before starting out on a ride today, cycling the clutch worked just fine. :thumb:
Also, I'll double check the How To page, but since I just got the bike I'm thinking it might just be a good idea to give it an oil change for the hell of it. Now my buddy, also the guy I baught the bike from, said it was normal to get alittle oil seepage when the block was cold. Trust but verify is my motto, and I just want to verify that this is a true statement. Again this is a 1995. Thanks much for the help so far.
i too have a 95,
what do you meanby oil seepage when cold??
i use a bit of oil mabee around 50ml per 1000km but it doesnt leak from any where.
.
do a engine flush, when you do the oil change, especiallly if your mate liked to thrash it a bit, that'll get rid of most of the carbon build up in the engine, while your at it change the plugs, you'll be amazed in the difference if you are riding around with fouled plugs. and if you are feeling really keen. clean the air filter as well
have fun :P
Sounds good, can you tell me what is entailed in an engine flush? Are we talking an oil change with just some engine cleaner/strong solvent?
you know, today, at a very busy stop light, my bike wouldn't get down into first from neutral, and I thought of you.... then I took off in second.... "Chugga Chugga Chugga Putt Putt Putt"
Haha, thats me in first too because I often forget I gotta get it up to like 4k if I want a smooth takeoff. Don't feel bad!
I didn't feel bad, but I took the bike out behind the shed and gave it an asswhooping for f%$king up in public.
its in the bathroom crying right now.
Quote from: NWDave on April 21, 2006, 04:44:49 PM
Sounds good, can you tell me what is entailed in an engine flush? Are we talking an oil change with just some engine cleaner/strong solvent?
It's just changing the oil, without changing the filter.
Yeah, what they said.. 99.9% of the time, letting the clutch out and pulling it back in usually fixes this problem. And in the rare event that it doesn't, rolling the bike forward will fix it. Rolling backwards never seemed to do anything, I remember I had this happen to me one time on a steep uphill redlight. :mad: So, being short I knew I couldn't push it up this hill so I tried rolling backwards a bit... cars behind me, yeah it sucked and didn't work too well... ended up just taking off like a bat out of hell in the first gear I could get the bike into. If only I knew then what I do now... coulda saved myself the embarassment.
Quote from: scratch on April 21, 2006, 06:52:01 AM
Also, it would be a good idea to check your oil level, and check it weekly.
It could very well be my imagination of a placebo effect, but I would almost bet money that since I switched over to synthetic oil that I have not had the problem of having to "roll" the bike to get it out of neutral. Like I said, it could be just in my head but it seems to shift more smoothly throughout the gears as well, including out of neutral. :dunno_white:
Quote from: NWDave on April 21, 2006, 03:48:40 PM
Check check and check. Had the problem again before starting out on a ride today, cycling the clutch worked just fine.
Motorcycle transmissions are "constant mesh" in this situation that means that both sets of gears have to be turning for them to engage completely. Thats why its hard to get it to shift at a stop or without the engine running.
Quote
Now my buddy, also the guy I baught the bike from, said it was normal to get alittle oil seepage when the block was cold. Trust but verify is my motto, and I just want to verify that this is a true statement.
Uh, no ANY leakage from the engine is NOT normal. This isn't a Triumph or a Harley after all. :laugh:
Unless he sold you the bike for cheap, your buddy screwed you. If you are lucky maybe its just the tach cable that is leaking. But if its the block, you are in for an expensive fix.
Quote from: Phaedrus on April 23, 2006, 10:10:51 AM
Quote from: scratch on April 21, 2006, 06:52:01 AM
Also, it would be a good idea to check your oil level, and check it weekly.
It could very well be my imagination of a placebo effect, but I would almost bet money that since I switched over to synthetic oil that I have not had the problem of having to "roll" the bike to get it out of neutral. Like I said, it could be just in my head but it seems to shift more smoothly throughout the gears as well, including out of neutral. :dunno_white:
I just started noticing the same thing actually.. I just changed oil at 1,800 miles (and will change again when I do my 4,000 mile valve adjustment to Mobil1), but I used Honda GN4 10w-40 dino and I've noticed that the bike shift smoother, too and I've yet to have a problem getting it outta neutral or any of those problems that required rolling or releasing the clutch. The guys at the dealership said it's good oil and that they use it in all of their oil changes. So... :dunno_white: But at any rate, I'm starting to believe that a better quality oil improves transmission response... Could be a fluke, too but we'll see.
Quote from: JamesG on April 23, 2006, 11:46:01 AM
Quote from: NWDave on April 21, 2006, 03:48:40 PM
Check check and check. Had the problem again before starting out on a ride today, cycling the clutch worked just fine.
Motorcycle transmissions are "constant mesh" in this situation that means that both sets of gears have to be turning for them to engage completely. Thats why its hard to get it to shift at a stop or without the engine running.
Quote
Now my buddy, also the guy I baught the bike from, said it was normal to get alittle oil seepage when the block was cold. Trust but verify is my motto, and I just want to verify that this is a true statement.
Uh, no ANY leakage from the engine is NOT normal. This isn't a Triumph or a Harley after all. :laugh:
Unless he sold you the bike for cheap, your buddy screwed you. If you are lucky maybe its just the tach cable that is leaking. But if its the block, you are in for an expensive fix.
Not from the block, the 'primary cover' as I believe it's refered to. In any event it wouldn't hurt to get the bike looked over, should I go with the local bikeshop (small time dealership, more into selling than fixing from what I have seen) or the reccomended backyard/small shop guy who seems to know his shaZam!?