Well, i think i need to jet my Baby. Ive had the V&H pipe on(bought it like that) forever.. Heres the kicker.. before, old engine.. it wouldnt rev past about an indicated 8k... sputtered above that... Im gonna go ahead and assume its not the tach beng lazy either... since it was always 8k..and it sounded like 8k to me.
NOW.. new motor.. carbs have been cleaned.. maybe adjusted somewhere..but bike seems somehow more lean(running pretty hott i think).. and the plugs show a slight lean. Also, it wont rev above 4-5k and it takes me until 6th gear to go 60mph!!!(close gear ratios puts me about 4-5k in a few gears in a row) this bike is not right at all right now... So.. im gonna assume it needs jetted.. and that it hasnt been yet. (im assuming this, but the brass plugs HAVE been removed already, so its a guess).
So, i have V&H pipe.. and stock filter. What jets (main and pilots) should i buy... and what seems to be about the right sizes for YOU? (the poeple that have V&H and stock filter is 'you').
AND also... im unsure as to whether its just worth it to buy the dynojet kit for its cheap price and free dynorun... instead of hunting around for single jets...
SO what does everyone think?
ohh.. i just thought of something... ive heard a few poeple talk about a restrictor.... well my airbox has the open filter, and then the tank.. no other peice.. so maybe thats whats making it run more lean than before?? just a thought.
The restrictor is with the K&N box filter to prevent you having to rejet. It defiantlely sounds like you have issues although I don't know if the jetting can hurt the performance as bad as you seem be having. I'll let more experianced folks voice their opinion.
Well, I'll start off with I'm not the most experienced. I have the V&H exaust and Dynojet kit. I would recomend the Dynojet kit if your not a pro. It's nice and easy to read the instructions. The only catch is you'll have to drill the slides. But thats a minor road block. Your bike will perform ten times better. I'm suprised it has run well at all without it. She needs to be rejetted.
-Anti
well.. i just read the carb tuning on pantabliagliano's website :thumb:
and Srinath says that the pipe wont affect the lower half of the rev range.. so im not surprised.. its actually all making sense now.
So above 3-5 k.... there IS NO rev range....hehe. BTW, srinath, i accidentally replied to the wrong post but basically if you read the splitting cases one it was supposed to be posted in this thread... i was just asking for you input as im gonna buy these things tomorrow and do it! :thumb:
Mine was rejeted the cheap way before doing the pipe and intake and the change was realatively minor after putting on the DynoJet stage 3. Definately more power but the Srinath jetting technique works just fine for fixing the "features" of the stock jetting.
Quote from: Rashadive heard a few poeple talk about a restrictor....
If this will help, here is a page showing my K&N in-airbox replacement filter -- with the restrictor.
K&N Stock Replacement Air FilterEDIT: Links changed from
sisna.com to
bbburma.net
thanks kerry... SO what is the purpose of the restrictor? Is that only if you dont wanna rejet at all? Because you would think with a k&n you would want unrestricted airflow.. wouldnt that just be as good as stock without a restrictor?
Thanks!
Rashad,
I installed the restrictor because I bought the K&N more for its reusability than for high-performance.
My Haynes manual says to clean the stock filter every 2,000 miles with compressed air, and to replace it every 7,500 miles. Have you priced a stock air filter at a dealer lately? I'd be broke if I followed that particular maintenance schedule!
I haven't rejetted my bike. [Blasphemy!?] After 24,000 miles I guess I'm blissfully ignorant. Nor do I have any plans to rejet - except for maybe some larger pilot jets to reduce my winter warmup headaches.
I assume that my K&N filter (the SU-5589), installed without the restrictor, would constitute part of a Stage 1 setup. But I don't know that for sure.
ok i gotcha!
Im hoping srinath sees this and posts everything that i would need for my particular situation and perhaps explains the washers thing too..
ahem..
*hint*
:mrgreen:
I was looking at the other post...(9 pages thread). K&N in the airbox and pipe...Unless its some fancy race baffle I'd try a 127.5 or a 130 mikuni mians, 40 pilots and 1 #4 washer under needle. I still dont htink your problem is just smaller jets though...rip in the diaphragm will be my first bet...With jetting that is set lean etc the bike will run but have problems like surging or lack of power. If you dont go over 5K no matter what...I'll say check the diaphragms...
Cool.
Srinath.
OK BTW buy mikuni jets...not that DJ crap...My jetting method is perfect, I have the DJ stuff but have not tested it...I'd stay with mikunis but maybe you want to buy a DJ and have it lying about...at $25+10 its a good bargain...The slide drilling may not be needed but if you have problems when you open the throttle fast, but its fine when you open it slow...Your slide needs a hole blocked... No big deal...I have blocked the slides without that stupid kit and its easy.
Cool.
Srinath.
With a similar setup, V&H + uni filter in the airbox, I used 127.5 mains, 40 pilots, 2 washers under the needle, mixture screws 3 turns out. It runs great.
You can check my web page (http://www.angelfire.com/mt2/mikesgs500/rejetting/) for a detailed description.
OK.. ill check the diaphrams guys.. if thats the prob, how expensive are they? Also, these washers your talking about... is the #4washer just a standard washer? like can i pick some up at a hardware store? im a little confused on that one.. so i just put the washers in under the jet needles?
Ill try it without dyno jet.. since i can be more specific and as srinath says, dynojet uses their own numbering system which would just confuse matters.
OK... i got the main jets... they were out of 40 pilots.. so ill see how i am without those..
I also ordered the diaphragms and a new oil pan gasket, and 6 quarts of oil.. all this comes to about 80 bucks...arghhh :nono:
But im still foggy about this washer thing... #4 huh?
#4 is the size of the washer. Just go to a hardware store and ask for a #4 brass or stainless steel metric washer, they'll know. Probably less than $0.25. Again, check my web page (http://www.angelfire.com/mt2/mikesgs500/rejetting) and you'll find a picture and detailed description.
Quote from: RashadOK... i got the main jets... they were out of 40 pilots.. so ill see how i am without those..
I also ordered the diaphragms and a new oil pan gasket, and 6 quarts of oil.. all this comes to about 80 bucks...arghhh :nono:
But im still foggy about this washer thing... #4 huh?
Well were your diaphragms bad...Those are bloody $$$ and you can actually fix ripped ones... You lookt at the light wiht them and you shouldn't see any light through them in any spot. That's the test.
Cool.
Srinath.
welll.. they were about 16 bucks a peice... :oops: and no i couldnt check them today.. i just ordered them.. should i cancel that order? If they arent bad... what should i check next?? im gettin worried.. i just brought her home and man, it takes forever to go 60.
I just had a thought.
I need a favor from you guys... anyone can do this.. start your bike with the choke..let it warm up or whatever.. and see how high it will rev. I am suspicious of my choke not being totally turned off.. i had trouble with it, and the cable wasnt pulling it right for some reason today. I cant tell if its on or not. Also, the damn clutch from the new motor failed today.... completely done.. so im putting mine back in, as its fine. (you can tell he beat that thing, or didnt know how to ride) But this would explain the revving problem.
ALSO..srinath.. i revved it to 7k today!! But it was sitting still.. and for some reason it appears to get worse the faster i go.. would this constitute more air getting into the carb diaphragms??(assuming they are ripped).
ALSO AGAIN...A mechanic told me (he has worked on many gs's) that a bike once did something very odd that wouldnt allow it to rev high... it sucked fuel back into the VACCUUM hose... is this possible? how would i test it.. apparently it was a bad petcock.
Thanks!
Bump^ :o
I know since i did the washer trick, i havent needed to use my choke, but then again, in south fla it doesnt get as cold as most your northern folks get. i hit the button it fires, twist, twist, let it idle, once in awhile i just hold it at 3k for about 15 sec after startup and i dont have to mess with it anymore. i remember i once had a pin hole in a diaphram on another bike, i fixed it with RTV silicon and bicycle innertube it was alittle sluggish off the start, but about 5krpm it kicked like a mule.
OK.. well can someone please try the choke thing and let me know? thanks!
Also, what else could this problem be???
my choke is pretty consistent-pull choke on, start bike, revs to 3K then almost immediately to 5K, occasionally a little higher. lave it there for a minute, maybe two then choke comes off and idles fine, with occasional easing the clutch out at first.
Stock 01 bike, in CA so it never gets really cold but bike is parked outside overnight, covered.
Most recently it will 'dance' a little around 3-4K but won't get to 5K anymore-probably because it's time to switch the air filter and plugs.
Thanks pablo..Well.. what i was saying, is i think my choke is STUCK open.. so if someone can put the choke on and 'try' to rev above 5-6-7k or wahtever.. to see if the bike will cut out and sputter when choked.. that way i can tell if that may be my problem....
sorry if its confusing..
I have been able to rev to redline with the choke...at a stand still...No problem...
Choke and intake leaks and all that affect the bike only at low rpm...at over 5K there is so much fluid flow through there the little added fuel with choke or little added air due to vaccum makes no diff unless you have a good 1/4 inch hole in the manifold that is...The only thing that caps off the revs is a diaphragm that wont lift...Rip...Replace it and see. Also check your diaphragm and let me know.
Cool.
Srinath.
Srinath...
Ok, i took apart the bike today.. i patched the gas tank leak (again).. and while that was drying i took off the carbs..etc.
But first, i took off the airbox, and ran it to see if i could see if the slides were moving..
They were, and it ran a little funny because it was lean probly.. but they moved fine, and in unison.. and when it hit fuel cutoff sputter mode at 5k or so... it like farted out the carbs, and spat a little gas out too!! :(
Now, i took off the caps and the diaphrams look good from what i can see.. they actually look brand new. I only took one completely off and out, but it was spotless. I will replace them both for the hell of it when the new ones come in.
OK, so i took off the carbs, and the float covers, and i replaced the stock 122.5 jets with the new 125.7 mains. I went to the hardware store and i swear i live in the most retarded town in the world. They for some reason dont carry any washers under #6 and have NO CLUE who would around here... really pisses me off... So i didnt put the washers on the needles yet.
So... bike seems to run much stronger in general with just the new mains.. i dunno why..lol
Its odd, but the problem seems to be speed sensitive.. it will rev almost to 7 or so sitting still.. But its also throttle sensitive, like the more i give it, the worse chance it has of making it past 5k. Also, when im actually riding, it gets worse and the faster i go it gets worse.. very weird.
So the mains had nothing to do with the problem, as its still there. Srinath im soooo lost. and i need to be riding this thing soon, as my car is gonna get fixed.
could it be ANYTHING Else? Timing? if you can think of anything please please let me know.. im so confused about this..
But keep in mind it always did this.. even with the old motor.. just not as bad.
OK.. srinath.. anyone.. im about to sell my bike.. PLEASE HELP ME... im seriously at the end of the rope here guys...
YESTERDAY... Me and a friend took off the valve cover, and checked the timing... it was OFF!!!! one pin too many (19)!!!! so i thought ALRIGHT!!!! thats y!!!!!!! We retimed it! We tightened things.. we checked and counted. We tightened the cam bearing caps and checked again. We tighted the tensioner and counted the pins again! We turned the motor over by hand a few times and counted again!!!! Still in time, so i know its right now...
Put it back together, problem still there!!!! Wont rev above 6-7 in nuetral and 5-6k under a load.
TODAY: Took off the carbs.. brought them to the bike guru's house.. we took them apart and targeted the needle jet, because they were stuck and i couldnt get them out that last time. We coaxed them out and sure enough they were COATED!!! this gunky greasy mess was blocking the little tiny holes on the outside of the needle jets.. completely coated them. We cleaned them until you could see light through every little hole. We cleaned the carbs out til they shined.. and used compressed air to blow everything out. They are perfect. Adjusted the floats etc... cleaned pilot air screws and turned them 3 turns.. (its stalling now and wont idle, so i think i need to turn them out more).
SO... in conclusion i started it up and the problem is still there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :guns:
Hes coming back over next sat. to check the cam timing again. I am not an iddiot. Neither is my friend. When we took the bike apart the cams were not in time.. when we put it together they were in time. NO noticeable difference in the way the bike ran.. leads me to a few conclusions:
1. the cams are jumping out of time.. which means bad tensioner, but mine is PERFECT and works FINE.
2. the problem is electrical.. IS THIS POSSIBLE??? what would i check?? and is there anything that could actually cause a high rpm only defect!!!
Please guys... im beggin you to help me.. im putting this POS up for sale soon. :cry:
Dont let it beat your rash, you have it on the ropes, its playing games with you is all. you beat the hard stuff already just keep knockin down the snags, you will win. dont loose your cool over it, worse case, walk away from it for a week do something else completely.
Heh.. yeah i know, but man, ive wasted so many hours on fixing stuff that isnt broke.. and i cant find the problem.. weird thing is the old motor did this....
bumpity...^ :o
On electrical issues...The advancer plate could go bad and have the thing work fine when cold but die when hot if the revs drop...Does that even make sense...Well it does...Here is what mine did. If you start it it runs fine...now it will run well for 15 20 mins...ample time to get on the highway and run steady speed...I once rode 40 miles on the highway after the 10 minute ride to the highway. It worked fine till I came to the exit and had to pull the clutch in...at that point it instantly started running on 1 cyl. I went to where I was going stopeed it...an hour later I stra it and it runs fine all the way to my home exit...where it again runs on 1 cyl. Typically black box issues cause misses/non firing at low revs and clean up at high revs. It also misbehaves when hot but is fine when cold. However it does not misbehave at one rpm when under load and another rpm when not under load. Under load and not under load the biggest difference is the correlation between throttle position and revs. At 5K under no load or 5K under load the bike is the same electrically. But for carburetion it is entirely different. 5k is less than 1/4 throttle if you are revving it in neutral, but its about 1/2 throttle in 6th. Carb issues are what you have...I'll send you my spare ones and they are not complete by any means...please put in your carb missing parts and try it. If it works keep it and send me yours...I need to figure this out. I had a friend whose bike reacted great if you open the throttle slow but bucked and lost rpm if you opened it fast...And he had one hole in the slide blocked just like mine. Funny thing is on my 89 both holes are open and it still behaves fine except when you open it very fast.
Cool.
Srinath.
OK Srinath.. so what did you want to do then? I can send you a pm with my address if you would like. Ah hell i trust everyone on here..
Rashad Frelin
240 Winter St.
Duboistown PA 17702
Srinath, if this works.. you are the man. Hell, even if it doesnt, youve helped a lot as it is. I really appreciate it! :cheers:
Oh, btw, what did you mean by carb missing parts? My carbs are complete and very clean. The only thing that i need to clean yet is the float needle seat i believe.. we didnt mess with that because they were froze in there and to get them out i might mess up the brass. I was focusing on the emulsion tubes etc.. which control higher rpms.. what exactly do you think it could be?
OH yeah.. and i tried to start it today, and it wouldnt start at all without some throttle and then to keep it running you have to give it gas..
Ever since we messed with the idle (pilot) screws it wont run at idle.. so i have to do some tuning there too..
Well My carbs aren't complete...That's what I meant...the parts that are missing you fill with yours. The overall thery I have is this...The non removeable parts are the problem...cos if it can be removed you'd have taken it off and cleaned it/replaced it. In junkyards you can get a incomplete carb for nothing...Hell I bought 3 incompletes for $30 and made one good set and sent it to Jared...BTW you still having problems with that Jared??? and the other 2 are lying about... So I presumably have a couple of good carb bodies, you should clean them and pull all the parts like jets, floats, needles etc from yours and put them in these. And check it out. If it works keep it. Send me yours and I'll see what turns up.
Cool.
Srinath.
I'll send it out in a day or two...
Hey send me shipping money later...Hell keep your carbs too... no sense shipping bad parts just for my pleasure...I have 2 carbs for 2 bikes, dont see why I need a third set...
Cool.
Srinath.
Hey Srinath.. thanks a lot buddy :cheers: Your help in this whole issue has been tremendous... i hope i can repay you someday. :thumb:
Ill definitely pay shipping, just let me know how much.. and if you want a few bucks for them ill be more than happy to reimburse you.
I wonder though.. isnt it odd that we fixed the timing... and it runs exactly as it did before that?
I mean. it was one tooth off.. (19 pins instead of 18 to be exact.. and in case you can figure exactly what that would do to the motor)... so wouldnt it run better now that its in time?
Is it possible for the timing to continually jump even with a good tensioner?? :o
bump 8)
If the cam chain is skipping teeth...look for that rubber slipper thing up in the valve cover and the the front and back ends of the cylinders in the chain turret and for missing or broken teeth in the sprokets. Those slippers will keep the chain from lifting off the sproket. Also check for wobbles and damaged links in the chain. I'll find and send the carbs in the next day or so. Now where is that 10 page thread...it needs to be revived...
Cool.
Srinath.
K thanks Srinath! :mrgreen:
Yeah, i hadnt thought of the other parts of the tensioner.. there is NO WAY that thing is skipping teeth.. because the chain is constantly being tensioned... hmmm.. and its in excellent condition... sprockets and teeth.
I guess this IS a carb issue... ill give your carbs a shot. Also.. i fear the tach might be not reading correctly.. is there an easy way to test this? Its definitely not revving right.. but it sounds like its revving higher than 7k... but maybe thats because i have a V&H pipe.. anyone have experience with the pipe and if it sounds higher than it is? Thanks! :thumb:
OK fine you talked me into it...I'll send you a tach also but now I need that back...in case one of my 2 bikes tachs die, so might as well send me your carbs and the tach back...OK Now more crap I need to find...use your speedo like a tach can you...Anyone here try...
Cool.
Srinath.
I hadn't followed this thread before. Sounds like something electrical to me. My GS is amazingly forgiving on the jetting, with only fairly subtle problems with the jetting off by large amounts. I can't imagine the jetting causing it stop acclerating past 7k.
If the throttle butterflies open all the way, and the slides go up all the way, I'd look for another problem. Could be the ignition box, or perhaps a coil cuts out at higher rpm.
It is running on both cylinders? One pipe isn't cool?
The long extended carb problem I has was I assembled the needles with the large retaining washer UNDER the e-clip instead of over it so the needles were free to move up and down in the slide. Double check to see that you didn't make the same bone-headed move ;)
Quote from: KevinCI hadn't followed this thread before. Sounds like something electrical to me. My GS is amazingly forgiving on the jetting, with only fairly subtle problems with the jetting off by large amounts. I can't imagine the jetting causing it stop acclerating past 7k.
If the throttle butterflies open all the way, and the slides go up all the way, I'd look for another problem. Could be the ignition box, or perhaps a coil cuts out at higher rpm.
It is running on both cylinders? One pipe isn't cool?
But would somethng electrical cause it to run different under a load?? I believe its running on both cylinders..lol.. i think i would notice that.. and if its not.. then im in for a treat because it has some useable power as is.
I didnt put washers on the needles yet.. i still have to find a hardware store around that has them.
oh i just realized what you meant.. nope the retaining washer is over the needles where it should be.
if not running on both cylinders youll know cause of sparks look way diffrent and will sound like cr@p if it will not go above 4 to 5 k rpm then dies out you could have a vacum problem maybe a leak in the mufflers gaskets or the gaskets on the top of the carbs could have holes in them as long as you have a stock or after market pipe that is good you should still have no problems and it should run fine on the stack carbs so take it in and have them do a test on your carbs they will be able to tell you what to do from there
Well.. i doubt a small exhaust leak would do this to a bike... ive run lawnmower motors without any muffler at all :lol: .
Besides, i have brand new exhaust gaskets. Brand new gaskets all around.. and the carb gaskets are fine. I took those diaphragms back because mine are perfect, rubbery, and without a hint of a leak. Ill try srinaths carbs... then i give up pretty much.
Guru is comin tomorrow to re check timing. If its on... which it better be or im an iddiot, then its gotta be carbs or electrical.. Srinath whats your take on the coils doing this??
Im seriously thinking about either a new R6 or a GSXR600.. most likely the GSXR. Ill probably ride the GS for this summer though.. then im either selling or trading her.
Ok...UPDATE:
Me and the bike Guru brainstormed a bit today.. and he suggested that we look at the electrical side of things.. because hes had some odd experiences with coils that test perfectly...and yet when replaced the bike runs fine. (and it didnt run good with them).
I had remembered that my one plug wire cap was screwy.. i went out and sure enough it popped right off :bs: . So i screwed it back into the wire... then popped it back on..the connection had been a little loose. I also re-sanded the ground point..and then took her for a ride.
All in all she pulls much better... still only revs to a certain point.. but a bit higher..look to rev to about 6-7k under load now..:)
I replaced the plugs and that helpd a bit too.. now the tach stops at 6-7k but i can hear it go slightly higher.. then cut.. i went about 40mph in first.. which was nice compared to the 25 i was getting. So i believe its electrical...
Anyone have working coils that i can borrow? I dont wanna drop 160 on new coils and not have them help.
NOW THE BAD STUFF:
I noticed the bike leaking oil pretty badly from the right side cover.. dripping it onto the pipe. Only when its running though. Its coming mostly from the small ignition cover.. but since this motor has been wrecked (new motor remember?) that cover is cracked. The oil is leaking from the rubber seal that goes around the wires leaving the cover. I dont have my old one either. So i proceeded to tighten the bolts, and i guess i tightened too much.. because i snapped one right off. :guns: :nana:
So... ill be taking that stupid thing off and fixing it i guess.
I have ONE major thing thats bugging me now.. the engine runs extremely hot. Now i have no basis of comparison.. but it seems very hott. I know its running lean down low.. because i have stock pilots with a V&H. But would that make it too hott? I mean i cant check the oil with bare hands.. is this normal? Its very hott to the touch, but then again its air-cooled and it pulls heat to the outside i guess. I just wanna make sure im not gonna have preignition or detonation. Thanks guys..
Rashad,
I can't check my oil with my bare hands either - that stupid dipstick handle is aluminum, and it gets real hot! I don't thnk that is a valid check of engine temp.
The little round cover on the right side isn't supposed to have oil behind it. I think the ignition sender will work submerged in oil, but it isn't supposed to be. There is a shaft seal in the big right cover that must be leaking. It is only a short job to pull that cover and replace the seal and gasket.
Do a plug chop at different throttle openings (ride for a few minutes at the throttle opening you want to check, hit the kill switch and pull in the clutch at the same time), stop and check the plugs. That will give you a rough idea if it is lean or not - white is lean. You should start with clean plugs and all that but you can get a quick idea without that.
Just sold my coils for $10, sorry!
Kevin..Thanks a lot man... youve helped me out a lot in that post alone. :thumb: Ill have to remember that kill switch trick.
Shame about those coils tho... :nana:
If you replace the shaft seal in the over, make sure you tap it carefully, and squarely, in place with a socket or something to put the load out at the edges. When you put the cover on, the seal and the shaft should be lubed with some oil first. Be a bit careful putting the seal over the shaft.
OK now are we still doing the carb swap thing...I just managed to find the least mangled carbs, only seems to have a broken vaccum spigot.
I have also working tach. It has the 2 screws missing on the bottom but It was working when I crashed.
Cool. Keep me posted.
Srinath.
Srinath, yes please.. i definitely need to test the tach :thumb:
Also.. i think it may be an electrical issue.. so im gonna go ahead and get different coils and see what happens.. so if you could just send the tach.. that would be cool. :cheers:
EDIT: Ahh helll... if you want to send the carbs too, it wouldnt hurt if the coils didnt work afterall.
Coild fail at temperature...or at low rpm. They may prevent you from getting to a higher rpm but it will be obviously not running on 1 cyl. Oil on the ignition plate wont make a diff cos its mechanical contact based. My money is still on carburetion. Please check your connections etc in the ignition system...ahhh hell I'll send you the coils off my 91 which is currently sitting and will sit till I get with werase and get the rear tire on...So try it and send it back quick, crbs and tach...take your time.
Cool.
Srinath.
You want my coils too??? well do you...do you...Punk...
Cool.
Srinath.
Yea found it...
Cool.
Srinath.
OK!!!! UPDATE!!:
I got srinath's carbs, tach and coils...
I started with the tach. Guess what?...
FIRST THING:
My bike hasnt been going to 5-6k. My tach was dead wrong, its been going to like 8k or so.. like it used to. However, it still ran like shaZam! the whole way up. So i havent been breaking the bike in right, since i THOUGHT i was at 5k... but oh well, too late now.
SECOND THING:
Cleaned up srinaths carbs, kept his jets etc... bike immediately ran 100 times better... lean, but still better. I noticed a crazy backfire though, and i figured out the problem:
On the diaphragm covers... the little caps on top were broken off and causing a vaccuum leak. So i used my caps... PROBLEM SOLVED!! Bike runs like it used to!!!
:thumb:
So, srinath.... how much do you want for the tach and carbs? And if you want mine ill send them as well. I just have to get it jetted right now.
And man, i dont get it.... apparently it was the carb BODIES?! :? hehe, whatever... i dont need the coils btw.. but thanks!!! :thumb:
oh yeah, this bike isnt as quick off the line as i thought it was...will the proper 40 pilots help that? And the washers?
If not, im thinking about a smaller front sprocket.
Does this mean your ready to ride? Why are you still modding if your getting rid of it?
-Anti
Quote from: The AntibodyDoes this mean your ready to ride? Why are you still modding if your getting rid of it?
-Anti
Well, i paid for insurance for a year... so ill keep it til then..
Then ill most likely keep it and use it for either track or fun. :mrgreen:
But i will have a GSXR600 or 750 next year.
Im ready to ride.. just need to set a date that i can make. I have to put in the new jets yet... but there are little stupid things to fix, like the rubber tank gasket, and loose tach etc...
Oh yeah, btw srinath.. "MR. Rashad Frelin"... i like that.... MR.... :thumb:
Quote from: RashadOK!!!! UPDATE!!:
I got srinath's carbs, tach and coils...
I started with the tach. Guess what?...
FIRST THING:
My bike hasnt been going to 5-6k. My tach was dead wrong, its been going to like 8k or so.. like it used to. However, it still ran like shaZam! the whole way up. So i havent been breaking the bike in right, since i THOUGHT i was at 5k... but oh well, too late now.
SECOND THING:
Cleaned up srinaths carbs, kept his jets etc... bike immediately ran 100 times better... lean, but still better. I noticed a crazy backfire though, and i figured out the problem:
On the diaphragm covers... the little caps on top were broken off and causing a vaccuum leak. So i used my caps... PROBLEM SOLVED!! Bike runs like it used to!!!
:thumb:
So, srinath.... how much do you want for the tach and carbs? And if you want mine ill send them as well. I just have to get it jetted right now.
And man, i dont get it.... apparently it was the carb BODIES?! :? hehe, whatever... i dont need the coils btw.. but thanks!!! :thumb:
Told you carburetor ... Also told you The vacuum spigot on mine was broken...I took apart 3 sets os carbs to put that together...neither one had a good top piece...OK I actually will take $8 for the shipping + all your parts...carbs, my coils and well you need the tach...OK your tach...Yea fine the parts are fine...Oh sorry you cant use that tach...it has a broken bolt stem...Well keep it if you need it till you get a good tach. So send back the parts (your carbs and my coils) and send the tach (or I'll try yours...Need somehitng I can open wihtout guilt) later and send me $8 for shipping. That should be fine.
OK so your carbs, my coils and your tach and $8 or my coils, your carbs and my tach later and $8.
How's that...
Cool.
Srinath.
Also thanks to Jared (not Jared Subway ad guy...Jared GS guy) for helping out Rashad...Last year I bought 3 sets of broken carbs well actually 4 sets cos the junkyard guys had no idea how to put these together and they knew they were broken...and made a good set and sent it to Jared. The rejects from that pile were used to make yours Rashad. So in effect 2 sets of carbs cost $25. Now finally I get my hands on a set of defective carbs. My friend had one but I never got to work on it. His bike will bog if you gave it full throttle...but if you opened it slow it ran fine. He did block 1 of the 2 slide holes so it wasn't slide lifting too quick.
Cool.
Srinath.
OK... 8$, plus your coils, MY carbs, and My tach. My tach has a broken bolt too.. just the other side.. hehe. Previous owner was a clutz and clearly dropped it. So ill have to send money order though.. my paypal is being sooo annoying :guns:
Ill send that asap srinath.. thank you!
Also... i havent closed the slide holes yet.. and i think i need to.. what should i use? Oh yeah, and when i jet will i gain a noticeable amount of power? remember i have the V&H full system. Thanks!
Well 40 pilots, will help the low end, and what filter you have?? Anyway 125 mains or 150 mains (K&N pods and no airbox) and 1-2 washers under needle will be close. 3 turns out on mix screw. If the bike is fine dont close 1 of the holes. If it runs fine on slow opening of throttle and falls on its face if you open fast then one hole needs to be closed. Send a personal check. The money order crap isn't worth it for $8
Cool.
Srinath.
I have stock filter.. i also have 125.7mains that i need to put in, and im waiting on the pilots and washers from a good buddy from this site. :cheers:
Ok, a personal check would be easier :thumb: Im still confused on the slide thing.. i DO know that when i open the throttle, its either a LOT or a nt enough til i give it more, then its a LOT... if thats what you mean.. so low end driveability is suffering. Ill see how it is after the jets and washers.
OK Throttle opening...You are riding along at 1/8-1/2 throttle in 5th or 6th and you do a quick open of the throttle to say 3/4...does it accelerate or fall on its face. That would be the clue. Then open it slowly to 3/4. If it behaves then it dont need a hole shut off.
Cool.
Srinath.
wow this thread is old.
Anyone have any advice or rules of thumb for jetting for a cooler climate? summers still get blazing hot but short lived. I'm in Toronto btw
I perfected the jetting in toronto in winter ... nothing like the damn 404 for O2 sensor runs.
125 with Uni or stock filter in air box, 127.5 for K&N in air box, and 150 for open K&N's.
I have had one person run 1 step higher mains and he was in canada. I'd stay with this, I never had an issue there with these.
Cool.
Srinath.
Thanks for the heads-up! Gotta check out Motolink...didn't even know it was there. Looks like a good shop!