I've been working on adjusting my float heights, since they came in EXTREMELY high using the u tube check method (like 2 inches above the gasket level) and I'm come up with a couple of questions. First, which way do I bend the tang in order to get the height lower? I have the carbs off and upside down right now. Do I bend the tang upwards, away from the body of the carb, to lower the float height? By using the nomeclature 'toward and away from the main body of the carb' I hope to eliminate upside down, right side up orientation confusion. From what I understand (from searches here), if you bend the tang toward the carb, you set your float height higher, bend it away from the body of the carb and you set the float height lower. Is this correct, or do I have it backwards?
Second question is I used the partsnmore rebuild kit. I replaced the o-ring on the floats. However, now the stem on the float won't go into the hole like it used to. The o-ring keeps it from sliding all the way it. Is this a problem, or is it solving a problem that I had previously (the stem of the float would go into the metal shaft without a problem due to a dried up o-ring.
Thanks in advance for your help
With the carbs upside down, you would push the tang down to lower the fuel level (makes the valve close earlier).
Ok, that's how I did it, but I got to thinking about it later and it seemed backwards. Thanks.
Any input on the o-ring question?
Quote from: BaoQingTian on April 26, 2006, 11:08:54 AM
Ok, that's how I did it, but I got to thinking about it later and it seemed backwards. Thanks.
Any input on the o-ring question?
Well, I replaced all of the o-rings using the stock parts, and had a similar problem with it not staying in. It's not caused any problems.
Cool, thanks.
So just to be clear, when I measured the float height, with the carbs upside, it was like 9 or 10 mm. I bent the tab DOWN so the floats sit higher (with the carbs upside down that is) to obtain a 14.6 mm measurement. Dang, I can't believe someone hasn't taken some pictures of this.
I'd MSPAINT a diagram and post it, but I'm at work and have nowhere to upload images to.
I used the parts'nmore kit too and had a similar issue with the float valve seat. I used a little dab of grease around the perimeter of the o-ring and then it slid into place. I think the replacement o-ring might be just a tad bigger than the stock one but it seems to be working fine once it was fully seated.
-M
Ah, so the O-ring is supposed to completely slide into the metal shaft. I put it together wrong then. I'll try some grease on it like you said, thx for the suggestion.
Quote from: BaoQingTian on April 26, 2006, 02:32:05 PM
Ah, so the O-ring is supposed to completely slide into the metal shaft. I put it together wrong then. I'll try some grease on it like you said, thx for the suggestion.
Are we talking about the same o-ring? I'm referring to the one on the valve seat (it comes already installed on the brass seat). The valve seat needs to be pressed completely into the hole in the carb body; if it's not fully seated it will throw off your float height.
-M
No, I was talking about the O-ring that goes on the plastic float.
I couldn't get it to slide in there, so I just put it together.
After 3 rifle shot backfires when I tried to start her up, I switched back to my old plugs and she started right up. She runs better than she ever has.
Only problem is that I have to leave the choke on. With it on she idles at about 4000 rpm. With it off, she dies. I assume this means I'm running LEAN. Since there are no brass covers over the air/fuel mix screws, I assume they've been adjusted, possibly to compensate for the previously rich mixture caused by high floats.