Alright here's the problem:
The Left side won't fire. The right side runs the bike (rough) but it runs it. I'm getting a little bit of dark smoke out of the exhaust (too rich or too lean???)
Here's the setup:
I just dropped a set of 40 pilots (the bleeder type) in my bike. The carbs are synched, mixture is set to 2.5 turns out (and i've played with it). I'm getting good spark. and I'm getting good fuel delivery.
Here's what I'm thinking:
What could cause my right side to fire, but the left to stay dead like this? Could the valve gap be a culprit? I've owned the bike for 3000 Miles and I've never checked, the previous owner had no Idea what I was talking about when I asked him about it. :dunno_white:
Here's what I'm doing:
I'm on my way to Princess Auto right now to pick up some feeler gauges to check my valves with help from Kerry's video.... hopefully someone will come up with a brilliant solution before I get back... :bowdown:
Here's what I'm feeling:
:mad: :dunno_white: :mad: :dunno_white: :mad: :dunno_white: :mad: :dunno_white: :mad: :dunno_white: :mad: :dunno_white: :mad: :dunno_white: :mad: :dunno_white: :mad: :dunno_white: :mad: :dunno_white: :mad: :dunno_white: :mad: :dunno_white: :mad: :dunno_white: :mad: :dunno_white: :mad: :dunno_white:
I've had a similar experience within the year. Last time I rode, bike ran fine.
Get bike out after sitting 'bout 7-8 weeks, starts but l. cyl doesn't want to run.
Check fuel...ok
Check spark...ok
Check battery, run down :mad:
Put battery on charger @1 amp/hr for 24 hr.
Next day....both cylinders light up right away, bike runs :thumb: :thumb:
Always check the ez stuff first......how long has the battery been sitting and are the cell levels "topped off"?
Hope it's that easy for you :)
checking your valves is a very good idea. Also check the secondary ground wire coming from the battery. Make sure the battery terminals are ok, and the ground wire connector is connnected and isn't broken or anything. Appearntly if there is a problem with this ground it will cause one cylider, I believe to be the left, to misfire. It's worth a check.
This may very well have been your problem pnaberhaus, and you unknowingly fixed it by pulling out the battery and putting it back in
How did you synch the carbs? If you synched them without the left cylinder running, then it's not going to be correct.
Try running it only on the left cylinder. See if you can start it. If it starts, it might give you some indication of the problem (e.g. you need throttle for it to start).
Quote from: joedude on April 27, 2006, 04:45:36 PM
I just dropped a set of 40 pilots (the bleeder type) in my bike.
There's your problem, or at least part of it.
-M
Quote from: Mandres on April 27, 2006, 05:31:56 PM
Quote from: joedude on April 27, 2006, 04:45:36 PM
I just dropped a set of 40 pilots (the bleeder type) in my bike.
There's your problem, or at least part of it.
-M
Good catch! I read that as non bleeder type. You need the Mikuni N151.067-40 non-bleeding pilot jets.
OK just got back from Princess Auto... man I love that place... but My bank account doesn't!!!
QuoteHow did you synch the carbs?
I synched them when it was running fine... before I stored it for the winter. I ran it for a few days now and it ran ok (still idled rough - I guess it's cause of the jets). The left cylinder problem started today.
QuoteMake sure the battery terminals are ok, and the ground wire connector is connnected and isn't broken or anything. Appearntly if there is a problem with this ground it will cause one cylider, I believe to be the left, to misfire. It's worth a check.
I just got my battery topped up before I put it back in the bike. I'm going to put a beefier Ground wire on the battery tomorrow to see if it helps (it can't do any bad so I figure why not?!).
QuoteYou need the Mikuni N151.067-40 non-bleeding pilot jets.
I thought that I read somewhere that bleeder types are ok... but I guess not... Will installing a K&N lunchbox allow me to use bleeders or still no?
I'm kind of frustrated because no other bike shops in town can get my non-bleeder types... only the Suzuki dealership... and the guy there is a true A$$hole. He told me that he couldn't order jets at all :bs: and that he also couldn't order a K&N filter for my bike :bs:
Many ppl have told me how poor his customer service is... ppl like that shouldn't be in business!
Thanks for the help so far!
I've heard the bleeders are okay too, but most people who install them say that they have problems.
Mikuni jets anyone (http://www.google.com/search?client=opera&rls=en&q=Mikuni+N151.067-40&sourceid=opera&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8")? You do have to pay shipping, but it's better than dealing with a jerk.
curious... if you had bleeder type jets... woulddn't it cause both cylinders to run crappy/not run? Lemme know too... cause I have the same problem
Pre 2001 bikes use non-bleeder pilots. Bleeder pilots run much richer. The 2001 and up use something like an 18.5 bleeder pilot jet. You can use bleeder types in earlier bikes but a 40 will be much too rich.
interesting... is there a way to tell if they're bleeder type or not... I threw the packaging away a long long time ago
Not without physically removing them and taking a look. The bleeder type have a ring of small holes in the body.
-M
Canadian bike ... stock pilots are perfect, I dont even change them ... they had 40 non bleed's to begin with ... with non bleeds ... if you threw away the stock ones ... try 37.5. They seem to run 1 size too rich ... Just a theory ... not done it per say ...
Then of course 1 cylinder running ... vacuum line or cap and auxillary ground ...
No K&N's will not be open enough for you to use 40 bleed pilots.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: seshadri_srinath on April 29, 2006, 07:38:31 PM
.....................auxillary ground ...
..................
Cool.
Srinath.
Just curious, what's this aux. ground I've read in several other threads too? :dunno_white:
I don't see anything labeled aux. on the wiring diagrams. :cookoo:
:cheers:
If you look at the ground wire at the battery post, the wire splits into two wires about 2 inches (5 cm) from the battery. If the smaller wire is broken, then only one cylinder will fire.
Quote from: Rema1000 on April 29, 2006, 09:11:13 PM
If you look at the ground wire at the battery post, the wire splits into two wires about 2 inches (5 cm) from the battery. If the smaller wire is broken, then only one cylinder will fire.
Yes, I see. One of those smaller wires grounds the ignition control unit. Losing that would certainly play havoc with the ignition pulses. :o
:cheers:
Ya my ground seems fine... but tracing my whole aux ground is going to be a job and a half. Once it gets into the wiring harness, it's lost among the meany other black wires (I think there's 4 with diferent white stripe combinations on them).
I'm in Canada, but my bike is American... so the stock jets were 37.5's. The dealer I got these pilots from couldn't get me any non bleeder type for my style of carb, and I prefer to not buy anything from the Suzuki dealership here cause the guy is a total customer service joke...
Thanks for all the feedback!