i have several oil leaks in my poor engine, and i'm getting tired of it. Thanks to onefastgs500, i just got a new oil pan...so the stripped drain plug shouldn't leak anymore (once i get a chance to install it). But i want to replace some of faulty gaskets. i remember reading that getting a gasket set is cheaper than buying the individual ones you need.
Anyway, there's a guy that almost always has a set on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-GASKET-SET-COMPLETE-SUZUKI-GS500-ALL-YEARS-GS_W0QQitemZ4638654236QQcategoryZ10064QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Is this worth getting? Is it crap? Anybody else bought from this place?
I was gonna get one but couldn't wait the 6 days for the bidding to end.
I sent them a message about buying it now and they never responded. seems like a legit kit. I couldn't find them for less than 98$ anywhere else.
btw this kit doesn't include the 4 rubber o-rings you need to change for the head. I got them at $3 a piece from ronayers.com.
Good luck.
Just got my set from him in the mail today, everything looks good to go. They are made by a company called, ARFRA.. whoever they are, looks French. Oh well, maybe someone else can chime in.
Quote from: 3imo on May 10, 2006, 12:36:58 PM
I was gonna get one but couldn't wait the 6 days for the bidding to end.
I sent them a message about buying it now and they never responded. seems like a legit kit. I couldn't find them for less than 98$ anywhere else.
btw this kit doesn't include the 4 rubber o-rings you need to change for the head. I got them at $3 a piece from ronayers.com.
Good luck.
Nor does it have the rubber gasket that goes around the head cover.. see Kerry's Vid.
Partsnmore
https://www.partsnmore.com/motorcycle-gasket_sets.php?make=suzuki&category=gasket_set
45 pc. complete top and bottom end engine overhaul gasket set including valve stem seals and all o rings. Fits Suzuki GS500E K/L/M/N/P/R/S/T (89-96) Twin models. Highest quality, made by European original equipment manufacturer supplier.
$63.00US EA.
Minimum $35US Order - Free shipping in the U.S.A. (Lower 48) - We ship by UPS
Thanks Blueknyt...that seems like the way to go. No waiting...everything i need. And after shipping, ebay guy would be at least $40+ and then when you add in the other rubber stuff and shipping it'd be up there. And i like words like "highest quality" and "european OEM." :thumb:
3imo, or someone else who's done it, how long did it take you to replace the gaskets? Can i do this in a weekend? i guess i won't need to replace anything other than the guilty ones (i think they're all top-end, except the oil pan)...but it'd be nice to know i have all new seals all around, ya know?
Have fun with that oil pan, 20+ bolts that have be torqued in sequence.
Quote from: NWDave on May 10, 2006, 01:10:22 PM
Have fun with that oil pan, 20+ bolts that have be torqued in sequence.
Are you serious!?! :o
Oh man...flippin previous owner! :mad:
It can be done in a weekend but be sure to take your time.
go buy a torque wrench if you don't have one. this is a must. follow all torque specs to the T.
I have rebuilt a fair share of different engines and the #1 lesson learned is to take your time. read the instructions word for word a few times before you begin.
MISTAKES AREN'T CHEAP. and you usually won't find them untill she's all put back together.
be sure you know each step, and what comes before what. ( I make a list) Also a clean workshop with all tools in order will speed things up a whole lot.
good luck. :thumb:
Time is just a matter of what gaskets you replace. Side covers and oil pan actually end up taking the longest because the gaskets (old ones) are cooked onto the aluminum and you need to remove all remnants of the old ones before you put on the new ones. If you don't, be prepared for more leaks :cheers:
Valve cover gasket is a good one to replace if it's never been done before and it's pretty easy. Don't bother replacing the breather gasket on top of the valve cover, it doesn't see any wear and tear so there's no reason why you should have a leak there to begin with. Replacing the cylinder head gasket is a good one to do (just for general engine health) if it's never been done before but it's labor intensive. Yes, you could do everything in a weekend. But that depends on how familiar you are with your bike. I would suggest doing the gaskets in sections.
Triage or whatever you call it. Oil pan being replaced? Do the side covers and the oil pan all in the same weekend. You don't have to remove anything else from the bike and you only have to worry about three gaskets. Then do the top end another weekend. But when you do the top end... do them all at once(all the top end gaskets). You're not going to want to do it again for a long time.
about removing your old gaskets, take your time and don't gouge the surface.
if you make the mistake of using anything that scratches the sealing surface, lightly sand it down with sand paper, but even this could likely cause problems.
I use a laquer thinner or just straight gas. both will not remove them instantly and require some elbow grease but at least you won't damage the surface.
I really need to rebuild my carbs, where can I go for those kits?
I think partsnmore have the cheapest set, if not someone posted really cheap kits here on the forum. I don't have time to search. I am outta here for the day,
Catch ya's later.
The stock gaskets are painted with some kind of black sealant and it's this sealant that is left behind when the gasket is removed. I found that acetone on a rag did a nice job of dissolving it and a plastic scraper helped with some of the stubborn spots.
-M
Thanks for all the posts guys. This helps a lot. Shadyray, i think i'll take your advice about splitting up the work. Sounds like a good plan. :thumb:
A couple more questions:
Will i need to use any kind of gasket adhesive or sealant with the new gaskets? i'm thinking no, but wanted to make sure.
Is there anything else i should do while i have the engine ripped apart? My bike has a cloudy maintenance history, and there are several things that lead me to believe it was not serviced regularly. It has close to 18k on it now.
As a general rule you want to use gasket sealant on one side of the gasket. This helps keep it in place when you're installing it. Also, it helps seal (go figure). Apply it very lightly; you don't want gasket sealant glooping into the cylinder head or whatever it is you need the gasket for.
Of course, dont seal both sides or the gasket will be destroyed next time the two parts are separated.
you will need 2 torque wrenches, one is a 1/2 drive Footpound ( ftlbs) these start at like 15ftlbs and go up to average 150 ftlbs or more
the second one is very VERY important for the smaller bolts that you can and will snap tightening "one handed snug" and it is a INCHPOUND (INlbs) these often have the Metric equivalent (nM) NetonMeter? like forinstance, some bottm case bolts are lik6.5-9.5ftlbs regular torque wrench will not reliably adjust that low but the Inlbs one will. you can generaly find em for 20-50$ each both sizes.