So i have a HUGE flat spot between 6&7K where the bike probably takes about 6 seconds to pass through and kinda spits and pops through it (basically sounds like crap). Once I get past it though everything is cool and she pulls like hell. MOST of the time, in the lower RPM range its fine but if i pull the clutch in rather when coming to a stop rather than staying in gear when i come to a stop it will idle high. From what I've gathered through ppl's posts, a high idle indicates that its running lean but the backfire etc means its running rich so I'm really confused. I'm running unrestricted K&N drop in filter with 40's & 127.5's and 2 #4 washers on each needle, with 3.5 turns out on the mixtures screws. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Where is the popping coming from, the carburetor or the exhaust? If it's coming from the carburetor area, then it is running lean.
have you checked the fuel level in the flloat bowls? If you're idling high, sometimes that indicates a cylinder that isn't always running. This could definitely be due to maladjusted fuel level.
Edit: You might put a more descriptive subject on your post(s). I almost skipped over it since I am just here for fork info before I tear my forks apart, and almost skipped it before I reailized you might need advice instead of just wanting to know what's going on. :icon_mrgreen:
changed subject line thanks and sorry
anyway I recently checked the float levels durning install of the jets (I had a previous thread where I had difficulty starting the bike due to a partially drained battery). The float levels were basically perfect as I didn't adjust them when I dismantled the carbs the first time. As for where the sound is coming from it's hard to say for sure at this point, I have to take another ride and post up later today. 8)
Did you check again? Mine were also perfect and 2 weeks later they were way off.
Okay so I just got back from a ride and I checked my float levels and theyre still where they should be. The engine still hangs at 3-4ish RPM sometimes instead of idling normally so I have to slip the clutch out a little to bring the RPM's down. I also pulled the spark plugs and the bottom electrode looked good (black but not grimey black) but the little arc over the electrode was pretty white (which means lean rite?). I'm out over 3 turns so does this even make sense that I could be lean?
it does sound like you are running lean, 127.5 should be about right though, you may have some thing lodged in you main jet or the float pin thing (pin valve)??
also the spark plug condition you are describing is normally bad fuel or bad oil, have you done an oil change lately??
try checking those things, failing that wind out your pilot screw another half turn and see how she goes
I changed the oil and filter about 1200 miles ago and I just recently rejetted it and had some trouble with the rejet, so I checked all those things (ie jets are clean etc and I actually replaced the float needle oring) and they shouldnt be a problem (as far as I know). I turned them out another half turn each (so if I remember correctly im almost at 4 turns out) and went for another ride ( :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:) but its still doing that idle high deal, almost seems worse now though.
do you think the Bob ignition advancer would help or hurt this seeing as i have a california model??
that advancer is most probably the best idea, it shouldnt make any difference if it a cali model as you have rejetted,
i have some 130 jets here as well but obvisiously your in the states so it would be a bit too long a postage,
get more jets is the only thing i can say, you must be getting quick now at getting the tank and stuff off. lol
keep trying.
I am SO tempted to say, "you can never be too rich or too lean", but I will resist....
h6
Quote from: vsboxerboy on May 20, 2006, 01:46:13 AM
I'm running unrestricted K&N drop in filter with 40's & 127.5's and 2 #4 washers on each needle, with 3.5 turns out on the mixtures screws. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Sounds like the pilot circuit may still be clogged up. These are the tiny internal passage ways which exit near the throttle plate. Sometimes it takes carb cleaner and fine gauge wire to clean 'em out. If it was running good before the rejet then I might consider the 2 washers under the needle as another possible culprit.
gisser do you think i should be taken back a washer, i m not to sure about this i think in doing that you'll probly make it worse but then again its all worth a try i sapose.
have a look at this
http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html
it might give you a clue as to whats going on.
Okay so I went on a ride today and I had an issue with the engine bucking (stallingish) then it completely died. I pulled over and it started again although it took a while to catch. I went home and tore her apart (getting really good at this seeing as its the 8th time in two months) and also pulled the spark plugs and found that the left cylinder's spark plug to be white. I pulled the carbs, cleaned them and set the screws to 4 turns out. The new question comes in that the left cylinder (whose spark plug showed much more leanness than the right cylinder) has an exhaust valve with <.038mm clearance. [I just watched kerry's video last night and checked em] Could this be responsible for the lean condition in the left cylinder?
Also, where should I go to get the shims? Or does someone near Santa Barbara have a spare test shim that I could use. I was reading that kerry's kit got sniped so where could I get that tool that he had or how can I do a shim change without it??
so I found that I can get shims from the stealership (something like 8 bucks a pop) but I can't seem to find out how to remove the shim witout that took that Kerry had in his kit. From what I've read there is a way to do this without the tool and without removing the camshaft...anyone know?
No, there is no good way to do it without either depressing the bucket (with the tool in the video) or displacing the camshaft. Personally I would unbolt the cam caps and lift the cam 1/2" or so without removing it. That should give you enough clearance to pop the shim out with a small jeweler's screwdriver.
-M
Don't forget the magnetic pickup tool! :thumb:
(Not necessary, but kinda cool - like a valve shim vacuum cleaner. :) )
Some people have tried depressing the valve with the cam, putting something between the cam and bucket, and then rotating the engine so that the cam lobe points away from the shim. They've also ended up bending valves trying to save $20 on a tool.
yeah that sounds kinda shady to do that, I guess I'll just kill two birds with one stone and get that tool then when I'm done with it I can send it around to replace the west coast kit that seems to have gone missing so other people dont have to deal with the same problem. I'll update when I get everything done...
But also, could the lack of clearance on the exhaust valve be a factor in that cylinder running lean?