How long should I have to leave the choke in? I rode my bike for about 15 minutes, averaging about 3k RPM in first gear (practicing)... Every time I stopped, I would close the choke a bit more, but by the end, I figured it should be warmed up, so I closed the choke. It stalled. I know nothing about adjusting carbs, and I haven't been able to find a Clymers manual around here yet, so I'm scared to mess with them right now. What kind of problems does stalling with the choke closed indicate? Is 10-15 minutes of puttering around at 10-15 mph enough to warm it up all the way?
try the idle screw first. it should be white
Yeah, my choke is 100% off by the time I reach the stoplight about a half mile from my house and she runs great (although I did change to 40 pilot jets though). After riding for an extended period of time does it idle normally or does it sputter and stall if you don't give it some gas??
It still sputters, and if I close the choke, it dies. It runs, it just doesn't seem to be running well at all... I'd like to do a complete tune-up, but I've got to get a few more tools first . And a clymers manual.
see above post
I think ajgs500 has a point here, five minutes max should be enough to not have to concern yourself about the choke.
If you can't find a manual locally you can get one from this site.
You may well have an issue with your idle screw which is the white nylon hand adjustable thingy you can see "through-the-gap."
Always, always eliminate the simple things first. The last thing you want to be doing is messing around with your carbs especially if you are not experienced. Simple things first, idle screw, are the air filters clean? is there muck in the gas pipes etc,?
He has a 2000, so it will be a brass knob hanging down in the middle between the two carbs: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=19976.msg185040#msg185040
If you're turning the idle up, and you're right-handed, stand or squat to the right of your bike and rotate the forward half of the screw away from you, that would be counter-clockwise when looking down from the top; hopefully, you will only need to screw it no more than half a turn before your engine sound changes. Choke should really only be used for a minute, 2 at the most, after that you're just wasting gas, carbonizing the combustion chanmber and potentially fouling the plug; use the throttle to keep up rpm's.
After a ride, set your idle to 1200rpm.
I'll give that a shot tonight. I was hoping to get a clymers for this weekend, but so much for that... Maybe for next weekend...
Buy a Haynes. I can't say that I've actually read it, but it can't be as bad as Clymer. The most important chapters for me so far (carb service) have turned out to be incomplete at best, and often very wrong. I have the 1989-2002 manual, and it never mentions the 2001+ 3-jet carbs. It doesn't tell you how to adjust the fuel-air mixture. It tells you that you can't soak the carbs because you can't remove the piston guides. I would be ashamed to put out something as bad as this manual.
Well, I've found once it warm, if I close the choke all the way at once (instead of closing it slowly) it'll idle alright. Seems kind of low, around 1k rpms. So fortunately a quick idle screw adjustment after work today should make everything just fine :D This weekend I want to drain and clean the gas tank and hoses, and then run some carb cleaner through the float bowls overnight. She'll be running like a dream in no time, hopefully.
Right now, when I open the throttle to a certain point, the bike responds poorly for a bit.